IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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A 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

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CIHM/?CMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHJVi/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


\  ^O 


'^'^%^ 
'^'' 

^ 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous 

10X                            14X                             18X                            22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


slaire 
3S  details 
iques  du 
nt  modifier 
xiger  une 
de  filmage 


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publiques  du  Canada 

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>d/ 
qu^es 


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empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  sulvants  apparaftra  sur  la 
dernldro  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  -^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  y  signifie  "FIN". 


taire 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  In  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  filmd  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


i  by  errata 
Imed  to 

ment 

,  une  pelure, 

t  fagon  d 

e. 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

r-tn' 


A   DESCRI 


PRODUCT 


in 


PU 


TRAVELS 


THROUGH 


THE  CAN  ADAS, 


CONTAINING 


A    DESCRIPTION   OF   THE    PICTURESQUE    SCENERY 


OX  SOME  OF  THE  UIVERS  AND  LAKES; 


i 


wiih  an  account  of  the 


PRODUCTIOJ^S,  COMMERCE,  AJ^D  UmjElTAJSTTS 


OF  THOSE  PROVmCES. 


BY  GEORGE  HERIOT,  ESQ. 
Deputtj  Post  Matter  General  of  British  Noilh  America. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
PUBLISHED   BY   M.  CAREY. 

NO.   122,  MARKET  STREET. 

1813. 


H 


y 


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7 


i 


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:ite; 


PREFACE. 


The  first  part  of  the  following  work  was  writ- 
ten with  the  design  of  conveying  an  idea  of  some 
of  the  picturesque  scenery  of  the  Saint  Law- 
rence, at  once  the  largest  and  most  wonderful 
body  of  fresh  waters  on  this  globe. 

Numbers  of  tributary  streams,  some  of  which 
are  of  immense  magnitude,  disembogue  them- 
selves into  this  gigantic  flood,  which,  from 
its  principal  source,  Lake  Superior,  to  its 
junction  with  the  ocean,  parts  with  none  of  its 
waters,  but  rolls  thither  all  that  it  receives. 

The  restless  impetuosity  of  many  of  these 
streams  has  furrowed  up  the  surface  of  the  land, 
and  produced  objects  of  stupendous  grandeur. 
Several  of  these  awful  and  sublime  operations  of 
nature,  have  hitherto  been  visited  by  a  small  por- 
tion only  of  civilized  men.  Her  most  wild  fea- 
tures, her  most  striking  and  attractive  charms, 
are  frequently  concealed  in  the  midst  of  unfre- 
quented deserts. 

A  2 


h  k 


1  Vl 


ji-:-.-  ■"■  -i,- 


IV 


IMIEIACE. 


To  the  picturesque  description  of  the  scenes  in 
Canada,  is  added  that  of  the  climate  and  pro- 
ductions of  the  country,  of  the  manners  and  cha- 
racter of  the  inhabitants,  also  of  those  of  the  do- 
miciliated Indians.  A  brief  dissertation  respecting 
the  commerce  and  constitution  of  the  Canadas  is 
likewise  subjoined. 

An  opportunity  of  visiting  the  Azores  having 
been  presented  to  the  author  during  his  voyage 
to  America,  he  has  made  two  of  the  most  cele- 
brated of  these  isles  the  subject  of  the  commence- 
ment of  this  tour. 


ft 


Azores:  oi 
Island  o 
ley  of 
gulph 
of  the  c( 
Pico:  \\ 
fluence 
extraord 
state  of 
tain  whe 


Banks  of  !? 

of   vesse 

cause  ot 

-and  prep; 


X  .- 


*%. 


CONTENTS. 


I 


CHAPTER   I. 

Azores:  original  discovery:  romantic  appearance. 
Island  ot  Saint  Michael:  Ponta  del  Gada:  val- 
ley of  Furno:  cavern  of  Boca  de  Inferno: 
gulph  of  Sete  Cidades:  culture:  productions 
of  the  country:  amenity  of  situations.  Island  of 
Pico:  view  from  the  summit  of  the  peak:  in- 
fluence produced  on  the  mind  by  positions  of 
extraordinary  elevation:  height  of  the  peak: 
state  of  thermometer:  grandeur  of  that  moun- 
tain when  viewed  from  the  sea.    —    — 

CHAPTER  II. 

Banks  of  Newfoundland:  uncommon  appearance 
of  vessels  engaged  in  the  fishery:  great  bank: 
cause  ot  the  fogs:  cod-fish:  mode  of  catching 
-and  preparing  it;  of  drying  and  packing:  vessels 


13 


■w^ 


vjii: 


CONTENTS. 


employed  in  the  commerce:  produce  of  that 
branch.  Ishmd  olWewloundland:  Eskimaux,  the 
only  natives  seen  there:  account  of  that  race  of 
men.  Original  discovery  of  Newfoundland:  har- 
bour of  Saint  John:  scaffolds:  the  ton  ii:  sterility  of 
soil:  uninviting  climate:  colonization  prohibited: 
importance  in  a  political  view:  islands  of  ice: 
Saint  Pierre  and  Miquelon:  Cape  Breton,  2f 

CHAPTER  III. 

Gulph  of  Saint  Lawrence.  Prince  Edward's  is- 
land. Bird  isles.  Chaleur's  bay:  its  commerce, 
and  that  of  Gaspe:  state  of  agriculture:  route 
to  the  capital:  perforated  rock:  the  Ganet: 
mouth  of  the  great  river:  Anticosti:  wild  as- 
pect presented  by  the  coasts  on  either  side  the 
river.  River  Saguenay:  waterfall:  boldness  of 
shores:  immense  depth:  king's  posts:  account 
of  the  mountaineers;  Malbay:  Coudres.  Saint 
Paul's  bay:  Camourasca:  Island  of  Orleans.     48 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Quebec:  description  of  that  city:  romantic  situa- 
tion: natural  strength:  religious  orders,  and 
their  establishments:  ship-building:  interesting 
scene  displayed  from  point  Levi:  extensive  and 
grand  landscape  presented  from  the  heights  to 
the  westward  of  the  garrison.  River  Mont- 
morenci:  natural  steps:  sublime  waterfall:  basin, 
and  its  strata:  description  of  the  fall  as  seeri 
^•om  the  coast  of  the  Saint  Lawrence.  r4» 


Jeune  1 
dancii 
river, 
appea 
from 
Lawr( 
its  w 
romar 
scapes 
binati< 


Country 
viere. 
which 
Saint 
Cham 
ders, 
sumn^ 
Sault 
cascac 
Hu  I 
Long 


Descript 
Ontar 


CONTENTS. 


XX 


CHAPTER    V. 

Jeune  Lorette:  domiciliated  natives:  mode  of 
dancing.  The  Saint  Charles:  cascades  on  that 
river.  The  Chaudiere:  description  of  its  fall: 
appearance  in  winter.  Island  of  Orleans:  views 
from  thence:  soil.  North  coast  of  the  Saint 
Lawrence.  Cape  Tourment.  River  Saint  Anne: 
its  waterfalls:  lower  fall  described.  La  Puce: 
romantic  falls  of  that  little  river:  various  land- 
scapes. Lake  Saint  Charles:  picturesque  com- 
binations. 


1-r! 


98 


CHAPTER  VL 

Country  to  the  westward  of  Quebec.  Lake  Cal- 
viere.  The  Jacques  Cartier:  romantic  scenery 
which  it  displays.  Town  of  three  rivers.  Lake 
Saint  Peter.  Town  of  William  Henry.  River 
Chambly.  Island  of  Montreal:  religious  or- 
ders, and  their  establishments:  view  from  the 
summit  of  the  mountain.  Indian  village  of  the 
Sault  Saint  Louis:  La  Chine:  Lake  St.  Louis: 
cascades:  rapids  of  the  Cedars:  of  the  coteau 
Du  Lac:  Lake  Saint  Francis:  cascades  of  the 
Long  Sault:  multitude  of  isles. 


109 


CHAPTER  A  ir. 

Description  of  Kingston  in  Upper  Canada:  lake 
Pntario?  bay  of  Quinte:  excellence  of  its  soil: 


ii 


t\ 


I      '■ 


X  CONTEXTS. 

Toronto,  or  York,  the  capital:  Burlington  ba}-: 
river  Ononclago:  romantic  cascades:  Genesee 
river:  waterfall:  forts  and  town  of  Niagara:  su- 
perior advantages  enjoyed  by  Settlers  on  the 
banks  of  the  Saint  Lawrence:  rapid  increase  of 
population,  and  prosperous  state  of  the  pro- 
vince: Queenstown:  the  whirlpool:  stupen- 
dous majesty  of  the  falls  of  Niagara:  cascades: 
village  of  Chippawa. 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Sublime  subject  of  the  falls  further  pursued.  Lake 
Erie:  Amherstburg:  the  Detroit:  Sandwich:  old 
town  of  Detroit:  beauty  and  fertility  of  the 
country.  River  and  lake  of  St.  Claire:  La 
Tranche,  or  Thames:  settlements  on  its  borders. 
Lake  Huron:  Bay  of  Thunder:  Michilimakinac: 
Lake  Michigan:  Green  Bay:  inhabitants:  Saint 
Joseph:  cascades  of  Saint  Mary.  Address  of 
the  Indians:  ancient  Hurons,  and  other  native 
Tribes.  Lake  Superior:  remarkable  transpa- 
rency of  its  waters:  grand  portage;  new  estab- 
lishment on  the  Kamanistigua. 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Commerce  of  Canada:  fur  trade:  paper  money: 
seigneuries:  rights  of  their  proprietors:  mode- 
rate appointments  of  colonial  officers:  mal-admi- 
nistration  of  finance  during  the  French  govern- 
ment: state  of  Canada  at  its  conquest:  progres- 


142 


181 


SIVC 

and  t 
dines: 
tion  ( 
portaj 


Former 
tion  ( 
Bill. 
Divis 
these 
settler 
the  h; 
lands: 
duce 
and  c: 
f  wintei 


"k,.  AiAwJ' 


181 


eONTKNTS. 


XI 


sive  improvement:  revenue:  yearly  equipment 
and  trar^port  in  the  fur  trade:  voyageurs:  har- 
diness and  mode  of  life:  difFuulties  of  navijja- 
tion  on  the  Outaouas  river:  romantic  waterfalls: 
portages.  220 


142 


CHAPTER    X. 

Former  state   of  colonial  government.    Introduc- 
tion of  the  criminal  code  of  England.  Quebec 
Bill.     New  constitution:  sketch  of  that  system. 
Division  of  Canada  into  two  provinces;  and  of 
these  into    counties:    advantages   of  Canadian 
settlers:  state  of  society:  manners:  character  of 
the  habitants,  or  landholders:  mode  of  clearing 
lands:  acquisition  of  property:  seigneuries:  pro- 
duce of  soils:  agriculture.  Upper  Canada:  cold, 
and  causes  of  its  long  domination:  travelling  in 
[  winter:  roads:  houses.  255 


jj^.y^i-j;— ^' 


v.-  ■■'.- 


«; 


S^     I 


h 


I'll 


Azores-^ 
island 
Furno- 
Cidadc 
Amenh 
the  suh 
mind 
Height 
deur  oj 

IN 

thor  mac 
parture  f 
write  an 
journal  o 
no  less  tei 
himself  t( 
of  the  CO! 
wif  bin  th( 
The  si] 


TRAVELS, 


y'c.  ^c^ 


CHAPTER  I. 

Azores-^or'tginal  dlscovery-^romantic  appearance—^ 
island  of  Saint  Michael — Ponta  del  Gada — valley  of 
Furno — cavern  of  Boca  de  Inferno — gulph  of  Sete 
Cidades — Culture — Productions  of  the  country-— - 
Amenity  of  situation — Island  of  Pico — Vieiv  from 
the  summit  of  the  Peak-^Lfuence  produced  on  the 
mind  by  positions  of  extraordinary  elevation- 
Height  of  the  Peak — State  of  thermometer — lx?  an* 
deur  of  that  mountain  when  viewed  from  the  sea* 

IN  compliance  with  a  promise  which  the  au- 
thor made  to  some  friends,  previous  to  his  de- 
parture from  England,  he  has  been  induced  to 
write  an  account  of  his  travels.  A.-  a  detaik  d 
journal  of  the  occurrences  of  a  vo}age  would  I  e 
no  less  tedious  than  uninteresting,  he  has  confined 
himself  to  a  descriptifin  of  such  islands,  and  parts 
o^the  continent  of  North  America,  as  have  fallen 
wi'hin  the  limits  of  his  observation. 

The  ship,  in  which  he  sailed,  liaving  touched 

B 


^i^T*''*',,'H»^, 


1'  i^ 


l4  THE    AZORES. 

at  the  Azores  on  her  passage  to  Canada,  an  qv 
portunity  was  afibrded  him  ol  visiting  the  islands 
of  St.  MicJjacl  and  Pico. 

The  Azores  are  situated  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean, 
nearly  at  an  equal  distance  from  luurope  and  A- 
merica,  extending  between  twent)  uve  and  thir- 
ty-two degrees  of  west  longitude,  and  thirty -se- 
ven and  forty  degrees  of  north  latitude. 

They  were  discovered  by  the  Portuguese,  who 
still  continue  to  possess  them,  in  1449,  at  a  peri-. 
od,  when  the  spirit  of  adventure  in  search  of  new 
regions,  patronized  and  directed  by  Henry  dui;e 
.of  Vizeo,  had  incited  the  navigators  oi  his  coun- 
try boldly  to  launch  into  the  ocean,  and  to  pur- 
sue their  course  far  beyond  the  utmost  limits  of 
former  geographical  knowledge. 

They  arc  said  to  have  received  tlie.  appellation 
jof  Azores  from  the  number  of  falcons  which  in- 
hibit the  mountains.  The  atmosphere  enjoys  a 
great  portion  of  clear  and  serene  wxather,  and  the 
mildness  of  the  climate  is  higWy  favourable  to 
human  health. 

The  rugged  precipices  and  mountains  varying- 
in  degrees  c  f  elevation,  as  well  as  in  form  and  ex- 
tent of  bases,  mam'  of  whose  summits  arc  coni- 
cal, exhibit  no  doubtful  indication  of  the  violent 
eruptions  and  convulsions,  by  which,  at  several 
distant  periods,  the  country  must  have  been  agi- 
tated. 

The  tops  of  the  most  lofty  of  these  mountains 


are  uj 

rest  < 
stupei 
gions 
propo 
crease 
situati 
erown 
where 
cd  tree 
The 
corn,  1 
Other  i 
ing  of 
variou: 
aroimd 
preseni 
tions. 
be  hen 
Sain 
Georg< 
vo,  are 
are  dis 
The 
lies  in 
It  isab 
regular 
being 
Tlie  ni 
eighty 


^fct^^J^jgmgmli^^^^^ 


jk^^^j;  I'**.  ..^  ♦.-X-iirt-'i 


coni- 
'iolent 
cveral 
ill  agi- 


THE  AZORES.  l5 

are  usually  discoverable  above  the  clouds,  Vvhich 
rest  or  float  upon  tlicir  sides ;  and  vvhich  their 
stupendous  height  attracts  amid  the  cooler  re. 
gions  of  the  atmosphere.  The  acclivities,  in 
proportion  to  their  distance  from  the  sea,  in- 
crease in  magnitude  and  elevation;  and,  in  many 
bituations,  abruptly  rise  into  enormous  piles, 
crowned  with  naked  and  barren  clifts,  except 
where  the  sides  are  sparingly  shagged  Avith  stunt- 
ed trees  and  brushwood. 

The  soil  is  in  general  fertile,  abounding  in 
corn,  grapes,  oranges,  lemons,  ar.d  a  variety  of 
other  fruits ;  and  is  likewise  favourable  for  breed- 
ing of  cattle,  sheep,  and  other  animals.  Fish  of 
various  kinds  are  found,  in  gi'cat  abundance,  all 
around  the  coasts :  and  the  woods  and  high  lands 
present  a  multitude  of  biids  of  different  descrip- 
tions. Animals  of  a  noxious  nature  are  said  to 
be  here  unknown. 

Saint  Michael,  Santa  Maria,  Tercera,  Saint 
George,  Graciosa,  Fc  yal,  Pico,  Florcs,  and  Cor- 
vo,  are  the  several  names  by  "which  diesc  i'ilai.ds 
are  distinguished. 

The  first  is  by  fl^r  the  most  extensive ;  and 
lies  in  a  direction  from  south-east  to  north-west. 
It  is  about  fifty- four  miles  in  length,  but  of  an  ir^ 
regular  breadth,  not  exceeding  iiftccii  miles,  and 
being  at  the  centre  not  wider  than  sIk  miles. 
Tlie  number  of  inhabitants  is  estimated  ui  nCcwW 
eighty  thousand. 


«  , 


^^ 


f 


AS 


\.      > 


V'      I 


16  JTHE     AZORES. 

Ponta  del  Gada,  the  principal  town,  is  situat- 
ed on  the  south  side,  and  contains  about  tv\  elve 
thousand  inhabitants.  The  streets  are  regular, 
and  of  convenient  width  :  and  the  churches  and 
religious  houses,  as  well  as  other  public  edifices, 
may  be  termed  rather  elegant.  Convents  and 
nunneries  are  placed  in  various  situations, 
throughout  tlie  country.  The  town  is  built  a- 
long  the  sea- coast.  The  land  behind  it  rises  at 
iirst  with  gradual  ascent,  and  afterwards  more  ab- 
ruptly, the  view  terminating  by  a  congeries  of 
conical  hills.  A  mountain  on  the  west  towers 
•  above  these,  and  is  of  a  handsome  form,  its  sum- 
mit having  a  table  appearance.  In  this  is  an  an- 
cient crater  filled  with  water,  whose  depth  has 
not  yet  been  ascertained. 

There  is  no  harbour  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town, 
and  vessels  are  usually  anchored  at  a  considera- 
ble distance  from  shore,  in  an  open  and  unshel- 
tered road. 

That  part  of  the  island,  in  which  the  capital  is 
placed,  forming  a  gentle  acclivity  of  considerable 
extent,  is  well  cultivated,  and  divided,  with  no 
small  degree  of  taste,  into  spacious  fields  planted 
wdth  Indian  corn,  wheat,  barley,  and  pulse.  Two 
crops  of  these  are  produced  annually.  Country 
houses  are  frequently  interspersed  with  orchards 
of  orange  trees,  whose  fruit  is  superior  to  that 
which  grows  in  the  southern  parts  of  Europe. 

Ribeira  Grande,  the  second  town  in  point  of 


I. 


.  Jfc  J^  •-^^l*  _.  .  . , 


THfi     AZORES,  17 

magnitude,  is  placed  on  the  north  side  of  the 
isbnd,  and  contains  nearly  as  many  inhabitants  as 
the  chief  city.  In  it  are  two  convents ;  one  of 
Franciscan  friars,  another  of  nuns. 

Villa  Franca,  about  eighteen  miles  east  of  Pon^ 
ta  del  Gada,  on  the  south  side  of  the  island,  forms 
the  third  town.  It  likewise  contains  a  convent 
of  Franciscan  friars,  and  one  with  about  three 
hundred  nuns  A  small  island  opposite  to  this 
place,  and  about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,  pos- 
sesses a  basin,  with  a  narrow  entrance,  where  fifty- 
vessels  might  anchor  in  security. 

Smaller  towns,  and  a  variety  of  hamlets,  are 
scattered  throughout  the  country.  The  surf  of 
the  sea  breaks  with  considerable  violence,  and 
with  unceasing  agitation,  all  around  the  coast. 

The  hot  baths  are  situated  in  the  eastern  part 
of  the  island;  and  the  road,  leading  from  the 
capital  thither,  is  by  Villa  Franca :  from  tl^nce 
it  rises  by  a  gradual  ascent  for  about  twelve  miles, 
until  it  attains  the  sum  nut  of  the  elevated  lands 
by  which  these  baths  are  environed.  The  de- 
scent into  the  valley  is  by  a  steep,  narrow,  and 
winding  path.  This  extraordinar)  guiph  ib  about 
twelve  miles  in  circumiertiice,  surrounded  by 
lofty  and  abrupt  precipices,  and  aCctssibie  only 
by  three  ways,  cut  with  labour  out  of  the  cliifs. 
The  soil  below  is  iiertile  and  w  ell  cultivated,  pro- 
ducing copious  harvests  oi  wheat  and  Indian  corn. 
Tiic  iucio.>ures  are  adorned  with  hcU^e-rovvs  of 

fi2 


It  /■ 


I 

>i     ■ ) 

■    .i 


18  'THE    AZORES. 

Lombnrdy  poplars,  which  rise  in  pyramidal  shapes, 
and  exhibit  a  pleasing  appearance.  The  gloomy 
faces  of  the  surrounding  rocks  are  shaded  i:nd 
varied  by  evergreens,  consisting  of  laurels,  myr- 
tles, fayas,  pao-sanguintro,  tamujas,  uvae  de  ser- 
ra,  and  a  number  of  other  shrubs  and  vines. 
'  Streams  of  crystalline  water,  interrupted  in, 
their  downward  course,  dash  with  impetuosity 
and  foaming  fury  from  rock  to  rock;  and,  col- 
lecting in  deep,  stony  basins  beneath,  thence  is- 
sue in  serpentine  rivulets,  which  intersect  the 
valley  in  a  variety  of  directions  ;  in  some  situa- 
tions, rushing  on  with  murmuring  sound ;  in  o- 
ihers,  creeping  along  with  a  smooth  and  silver 
surface.  These,  together  with  the  appearance 
of  the  boiling  fountains,  from  whence  clouds  of 
steam  arc  continually  thrown  up ;  a  lake,  well 
stocked  with  water-fowl ;  blackbirds,  and  other 
feathered  songsters  of  the  grove,  enlivening  by 
their  melody  ;  fruits,  and  aromatic  plants,  yield- 
ing the  most  grateful  odours,  contribute  to  form 
a  combination  of  objects,  highly  pleasing,  and 
wildly  picturesque. 

The  valley,  which  is  named  Furno,  contains  a 
number  oi  boiling  fountains  ;  the  most  remarka- 
ble of  these,  the  cauldron,  is  situated  upon  a  small 
eminence,  being  a  circular  basin  of  thirty  feet  in 
diameter,  whose  water,  boiling  with  ceaseless  agi- 
tation, emits  a  quantity  of  vapour.  At  a  few  pa- 
ces distant  from  hence  is  the  cavern  Boca  de  Iii'. 


N' 


THE    AZORES.  19 

Ifemo,  tlirowing  out,  for  a  considerable  way  from 
its  mouth,  quantities  of  water  mixed  with  mud, 
accompanied  by  a  noise  like  thunder.  Around 
this  spot,  and  within  the  compass  of  an  acre  of 
land,  there  are  upwards  of  a  hundred  fountains  of 
the  same  kind ;  and  even  in  the  midst  of  a  rivu- 
let which  runs  by  it,  are  several  of  these  springs, 
so  hot  as  to  be  insupportable  to  the  touch.  In 
other  places  the  sulphureous  vapours  issue  with 
such  force,  from  a  number  of  apertures  in  the 
overhanging  cliffs,  as  to  suggest  to  the  tancy  an 
idea  of  the  place  being  inhabited  by  a  thousand 
fabled  Cyclops,  occupied,  with  their  bellows  and 
forges,  in  fabricating  thunder. 

The  surface  of  the  ground  is  covered,  in  many 
places,  with  pure  sulphur,  which  has  been  con- 
densed from  the  steam ;  and  which,  like  hoar  frost, 
is  arranged  in  sharp-pointed,  stellated  figures. 

Not  far  distant  from  these  hot  springs,  there 
arc  others  of  a  nature  extremely  cold,  particular- 
ly two,  whose  waters  possess  a  strong  mineral 
quality,  accompanied  by  a  sharp,  acid  taste.  A- 
bout  half  a  mile  to  the  westward  of  this  place,  and 
close  by  the  side  of  a  river,  there  are  likewise  se- 
veral sulphureous  fountains,  whose  waters  have 
been  used  with  eminent  success,  by  persons  af- 
flicted with  scrophulous  disorders  Under  the  de- 
clivity of  a  hill,  westward  from  Saint  Ai.n's 
church  are  found  springs  of  a  similar  kind,  which 
are  much  usec^by  the  neighbouring  inhabitants* 


^U 


^'l 


M 


^0  THE   AZORES. 

These  flow  in  currents  from  a  precipice  ;  and  are 
some  of  a  hot,  others  of  a  cokl  temperature,  al.' 
though  only  a  few  feet  asunder. 

To  the  westward  of  these  is  placed  the  lake, 
whose  circumference  is  only  three  miles,  and 
whose  water  is  of  a  greenish  colour,  being  pow- 
erfully impregnated  with  sulphur.  On  its  north 
side  there  is  a  small  plain,  where  the  earth,  perfo- 
rated in  a  thousand  places,  incessantly  emits  sul- 
phureous exhalations.  Thither,  during  die  heat 
of  the  day,  the  cattle  repair  to  avoid  being  tortur* 
ed  by  flies. 

The  united  waters  of  the  springs  produce  a 
considerable  river,  called  Ribeira  Quente,  run- 
ning, for  a  course  of  nine  miles,  through  a  deep 
rent  in  a  mountain,  and  discharging  itself  into  the 
sea,  on  the  south  side  of  the  island.  Along  the 
precipices,  which  confine  it  on  either  side,  several 
spots  emit  smoke  ;  and  in  the  sea,  at  some  dis- 
tance from  its  mouth,  there  are  springs  which  boii 
up  so  strongly,  that  their  heat  is  sensibly  felt  at 
the  surface 

Tlie  Furno  contains  two  parislies,  and  about  a 
thousand  inhabitants,  whom  necessity  compelled 
to  pass  the  mountains,  and  to  cultivate  a  spot 
which  was  formerly  believed  to  be  inhabited  by 
daemons.  Many  years  elapsed  before  the  other 
inliabitunts  of  the  island  began  to  visit  it :  but, 
since  tne  neaiing  qumities  ot  the  waters  have  been 
disicovciGii,  many  iuvaAids,  ujiweU  as^  others,  have 


^' 


p>- .  i  ■-*«<., 


nd  are 
re,  al« 

c  lake^ 
s,  and 
T  pow- 
3  north 
,  pertb- 
\xs  sul- 
he  heat 
tortur- 

duce  a 
e,   run- 
i  a  deep 
into  the 
ong  the 
,  several 
me  dis- 
lich  boil 
felt  at 


THE    AZOr^ES.  21 

resorted  thither :  and  notable  effects  have  been 
produced,  by  their  use,  upon  tliose  afflicted  by 
the  gout,  scrophula,  and  other  putaneous  mala- 
dies. 

The  eastern  and  western  parts  of  the  island  rise 
into  lofty  mountains  :  but  the  centre,  which  is  low- 
er, is  interspersed  with  a  variety  of  conical  hills, 
every  one  of  which  discovers  evident  tokens  of 
volcanic  eruptions.  Their  summits  are  hollow  cd 
into  basins,  containing  a  quantity  of  water.  On 
the  west  side  of  the  island  another  gulph  is  to  be 
viewed,  not  less  singular  and  extraordinary  than 
that  already  described,  which  is  known  by  the  ap- 
pellation of  Sete  CidadeSy  or  the  seven  cities  ;  and 
whose  extent  is  double  that  of  the  Furno.  It  is 
surrounded  by  steep  precipices  ;  and  contains  a 
fine  lake  of  considerable  depth,  and  two  leagues 
in  circumference.  No  hot  springs  have  been  dis- 
covered in  its  vicinity  :  nor  do  the  waters  possess 
any  mineral  quality.  It  has  no  visible  discharge  ; 
and  is  on  a  level  with  the  sea.  The  mountains, 
which  form  the  boundaries  of  the  valley,  appear  to 
have  experienced  the  most  violent  and  uncom- 
mon  changes.  They  are  cgmposed  entirely  of 
white  pumice-stone,  unmixed  with  black  lava,  af- 
fording unquestionable  indications  of  the  opera- 
tion of  a  volcano,  and  of  its  more  elevated  parts 
having  subsided  mto  the  centre  of  the  mountain. 
There  are  two  hills  placed  in  the  bottom  ot  the 
valley,  whose  craters  are  yet  open,  although  al 
I  most  overi^rowii  by  shrubs. 


^ 


i^^  ' '  ""{g'  3. -3^-'";.  J 


;,'W^Wrf!i,*L  *t.^. 


22  THE   AZORES. 

The  lower  parts  of  tiic  ibland  arc  very  fertile, 
and  ill  a  state  of  high  cultivation.  Tlic  soil  in 
general  consists  of  decomposed  pumice-stone, 
which  is  easily  worked  ;  and  it  usually  yields  two 
orops  every  year. 

A  vegetable  called  trcmosa,  or  blue  lupin,  su% 
plies  the  deficiency  of  animal  manure.  It  is  sown 
on  the  fields  with  the  first  rains  in  September,  and 
from  the  effects  of  moisture  and  warmth,  growing 
to  a  very  rank  state.  About  the  end  of  November 
it  is  mowed  down,  left  for  a  few  days  to  flag,  and 
is  afterwards  plow  ed  into  the  ground. 

Oranges  and  lemons  abound   throughout  the- 
country.     The  first  are  of  an  excellent  quality, 
ripen  earlier    than  those    produced  in    Portu- 
gal, and  are  brought  sooner  to  market.     The  best! 
kind  of  orange  is  raised  by  layers.     Water  me- 
Ions  grow  abundantly  in  the  fields.     The  farms  I 
produce    wheat,    Indian  corn,    and  calavances.j 
Vines  are  also  cultivated  on  tracts  of  black  lavaf 
bordering  on  the  sea  coast ;  but  their  juice  is  thinj 
and  feeble,  soon  acquiring  an  acid  taste. 

The   con\'ent=;  and  other   religious  establish-! 
ments,  placed  in  various  situations  along  thebor.| 
ders  of  the  island,  and  constructed  of  a  white  cc 
loured  stone,  produce  a  pleasing  effect,    when| 
viewed  from  the  sea. 

Tiie  aromatic  herbs,  trees,  end  fruits,  perfume! 
the  atmosphere  vvith  their  sweets :  and  the  breeze! 
tlius  impregnated,  becomes,  when  blowing  froiTij 


\. 


"fHE   AZORES.  23 

ihc  land,  highly  gratclul  to  ihc  travcMcr  in  sailing 
aloni^  the  shore.  After  haviiig  been  three  weeks 
at  sea,  we  became  scnsiljly  inipresh*  d  by  its  en- 
livening influence,  which  su<i;i^cstecl  to  recollec- 
tion the  following  lines  in  Buchanan's  Od'j  to 
May ; 

*'  Talis  beatis  incubit  insuUs, 

"  Aurae  felicis  perpetuus  tepor; 

*'  Et  nesciis  campis  scnectic 

*■''  Difficilis,  quaerulique  morbi." 

The  island  of  Pico,  from  the  superior  altitude 
of  one  of  its  mountains,  is  the  most  remarkable  ol 
all  the  Azores. 

From  the  village  of  Guindaste  to  the  summit  of 
the  peak,  the  distance  is  stated  to  be  nine  miles. 
The  road  passes  through  a  wild,  rugged,  and  dif- 
ficult country,  which  is  entirely  covered  with 
brushwood.  When,  at  seven  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  we  arrived  at  the  skirts  of  the  mountain, 
which  form  the  region  of  the  clouds,  tlie  wind  be- 
came extremely  cold,  attended  by  a  thick  mist; 
the  thermometer  falling  to  forty-eight  degrees, 
and  at  eight  o'clock  to  forty-seven.  In  alluding 
to  the  degrees  of  cold,  I  must  be  understood  to 
speak  relatively,  and  only  with  respect  to  its  influ- 
ence on  the  human  frame,  which  a  sudden  change 
of  twenty-two  degrees  of  temperature  cannot  tail 
touiect.  About  ten  we  arrived  at  the  boundary 
of  the  ancient  crater  :  and  the  sun  then  acquirijig; 
power,  the  thermometer  rose  to  iorty-ei..:;lit  de- 


y 


■LMAiKINiftAwifi'' «'  M»  ' 


'T^^S^SSSKi^'  * 


24  THE   AZORES'. 

grees.  This  appears  to  have  been  more  than  ft 
mile  ill  circumlcrcucc.  The  southern  and  wes- 
tern boinidaries  yet  remain :  but  those  of  the 
north  and  east  liave  given  way,  and  have  tum- 
bled down  the  side  oi  the  mountain.  In  the  cen- 
tre ot  the  old  crater,  a  cone  of  three  hundred  I'eeV 
in  perpendicular  height  is  thrown  up,  on  the  sum- 
mit of  which  is  the  present  mouth.  The  ascent 
of  this  is  very  steep  and  difficult :  and  it  contains 
several  apertures  from  w  hich  smoke  is  emitted. 
It  is  formed  of  u  crust  of  lava,  of  the  consistence 
of  iron  that  has  once  been  in  a  state  of  fusion. 

At  the  hour  of  half  past  ten  we  gained  the  top 
of  the  peak,  which  is  singularly  sharp  and  pointed, 
being  about  seven  paces  in  length,  and  about  five 
in  breadth.  The  crater  is  on  the  north  side,  and 
below  the  summit,  is  about  twenty  paces  in  dia~ 
meter,  and  is  continually  emitting  smoke.  It  is 
almost  filled  with  burnt  rocks. 

From  hence  several  of  the  neighbouring  islands 
are  presented  to  the  view.  Pico,  seen  from  the 
peak,  exhibits  an  appearance  no  less  singular 
than  romantic :  the  eastern  part  rises  into  a  har- 
row ridge,  along  wdiich  are  many  ancient  volca- 
nos  which  have  long  ceased  to  emit  smoke,  and 
several  of  whose  craters  are  now  almost  conceal- 
ed by  woods  which  have  sprung  up  around  them. 
The  basis  of  the  peak  presents  likewise  some  re- 
mains of  smaller  volcanos,  whose  fires  are  now  ex- 
tinguished.    The  lust  eruption  of  the  peak ,  which 


V  " 


T«L     A^'ORF.i. 


k\ppenedm  1718,  burst  foitli  from  its  sUlc,  and 
destroyed  a  grcut  part  of  tlie  vineyards. 

It  is  on  elevated  situations  like  this,  that  is  felt 
that  influence  which  the  vast  and  unbounded  thea- 
tre, at  once  laid  open  to  contemplation,  is  cap.i- 
ble  or  exciting. — Those  inspirations  of  nature,  so 
eloquent  and  so  animated — that  attractive  impulse 
ivhieh  attunes  the  soul  to  harmony  with  her 
works — that  distinctive  character  which  the  Crca- 
tor  hath  imprinted  on  the  heart — innate  traces  of 
which  peculiar  minds  arc  delighted  in  feeling, 
amid  the  rude  and  sublime  masses  produced  by 
explosions  of  the  globe,  or  amid  the  less  stupen- 
dous ruins  of  the  monuments  of  human  grandeur. 

The  whole  of  the  lower  grounds  of  this  island 
are  planted  v\  ith  vines ;  and,  having  been  entire- 
ly covered  with  black  lava,  the  labour  in  digging 
and  clearing  it  away  must  have  been  considera- 
ble. When  the  vines  are  planted,  the  surface  of 
the  soil  is  again  thinly  strewed  with  lava,  over 
which  the  young  shoots  are  suffered  to  run. 

The  height  of  the  peak  from  the  surface  of  tli^ 
water,  is  about  eight  thousand  perpendicular  feet. 
Upon  a  comparison  of  observations  made  at  the 
same  periods  with  the  thermometer  on  the  peak^ 
and  at  Fayal,  they  were  found  to  be  as  follows  ; 

Fahrenheit'a  Thermometer. 

fayal.  On  tlie  Peak. 

fEight  o'clock        ~        69«  47® 

^°'^"'"ff  Vren  and  a  half       -      70  53- 

l.Twelve       —     —       7I  S9 


U 


\i    V 


!►■''">'"'-''■*''*  iM*--l- 


'26  THE     AZORES. 

When  viewed  from  the  sea,  the  peak  assiihies 
the  appearance  of  a  cone,  almost  regular,  of  im- 
mense magnitude,  having  a  smaller  cone  rising 
from  one  side  of  its  summit,  which  is  that  alrea- 
dy described.  This  mountain  rears  its  elevated 
head  far  above  the  clouds,  which  float  around  its 
craggy  sides,  and  is  visible  to  the  extent  of  many 
leagues. 


■jiiMtrf;!^*:' 


•'fiUrl^' 


.NEWFOUNDLAND. 


27 


CHAPTER  11. 

Ranks  of  Newfoundland — uncommon  appearance  of  ves- 
sels engaged  in  the  fishery — great  bank — cause  of 
the  fogs — cod-fish — mode  of  catching  and  preparing 
it — of  drijing  and  packing — vessels  employed  in  the 
commerce — produce  of  that  branch — island  of  New- 
foundland— Eskimaux,  the  only  natives  seen  ihere-~* 
account  of  that  race  of  men — original  discovery  of 
Newfoundland — harbour  of  Saint  John — scaffolds — 
the  town — sterility  of  soil — uninviting  climate — co- 
lonization prohibited — importance  in  a  political  view 
islands  of  ice — Saint  Pierre  and  Miquelon — Cape 
Breton* 

HAVING  takei  our  depariure  from  the  A- 
zores,  we  proceeded  on  the  voyage  to  Nortli  A- 
merica ;  and  on  arriving  at  the  banks  of  Ncav- 
foiindland,  a  number  of  vessels,  stationed  at  va- 
rious distances,  and  seemingly  rit  anchor,  occur- 
red to  our  view.  These  we  soon  understood  to 
be  engaged  in  the  cod  fishery.  They  are,  in  ge- 
neral, from  eighty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  tons 
burden,  fitted  out  from  several  places  in  England, 
particularly  from  the  \^  cstern  counties,  and  from 
the  islands  of  Jersey  and  Guernsey.  There  are, 
besides,  vessels  belonging  to  the  fishermen  who 
winter  in  Newfoundland,  and  at  the  settlements, 
in  the  neighbouring  parts  of  the  continent. 

The  Great  Bank,  \^hich  is  about  forty  leagues 


p    ♦: 


„,,>i»-i„s«- 


M 


^8  KEwrorND-LAK». 

distant  from  the  island  is  an  enormous  mountain 
formed  beneath  the  surface  of  the  sea.  Its  extent 
is  about  a  hundred  and  sixty  leagues,  and  its 
breadth  about  si:;ty,  the  extremities  terminating^ 
in  points.  On  the  eastern  side,  towards  the 
Gcntie,  a  kind  of  bay  is  formed,  called  the  Ditch. 
The  depth  of  water  varies  nuich  throughout  the 
whole,  beini^-  in  some  situations  sixty,  in  others 
only  five  fathoms.  During  the  hottest  weather, 
ihc  fish  djt)  not  frequent  either  the  great  or  the 
rjmuller  banks ;  but  retire  to  the  deep  waters.  It 
ly.is  been  remarked  by  many  j)eople,  that  on  ap- 
proaching the  banks,  the  noise  of  the  billows  of 
the  ocean  l>ecome  more  shrill  and  loud;  an  effect 
which  is  probably  produced  by  the  shallowness 
of  the  waters. 

The  thick  fogs,  which  are  here  more  prevalent 
ihan  in  any  other  part  of  the  Atlantic,  exhibit  a 
oingular  phenomenon ;  and  may  be  presumed  to 
owe  their  origin  to  the  stream  from  the  gulph  of 
Mexico,  the  discharge  of  waters  incessantly  accu- 
mulating there  by  the  pressure  of  the  trade  winds. 

The  system  of  philosophy  introduced  by  Sir 
Isaac  Newton,  maintains,  that  the  combined  at- 
tractive influence  of  the  sun  and  moon,  and  the 
centrifugal  force  of  the  water  arising  from  the 
diurnal  motion  of  the  earth  around  its  axis,  ele- 
vate that  liquid  €;lement  at  the  equator  to  a  much 
greater  hc'^^ht  than  at  the  poles;  and  that  the  de- 
giee  oi  elevation  is  in  proportion  to  the  aitejruate 


-X-k 


..,^.l!te<r.^ 


^ 


NEWFOUNDLAND.  ^'J 

advancement,  or  decline,  of  the  power  of  these 
luminaries.  This  immense  collection  of  waters, 
impelled  by  its  own  gravitation,  by  the  attraction 
of  the  earth,  and  by  the  force  of  the  winds  opcrut 
ing  with  those  causes,  moves  onwards  in  a  wes- 
tern direction  ;  flows  through  the  chain  of  Carib- 
bean islands  ;  and  enters  the  Mexican  gulph  be- 
tween the  island  of  Cuba  and  the  promontory  of 
Yucatan.  Opposed  by  the  surrounding  coasts, 
it  pursues  its  way  out  of  the  gulph,  between  Flo- 
rida and  the  Bahama  islands  ;  assumes  a  course 
to  the  northwards  ;  and  thus  runs  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  coast  of  North  America,  being  at  the 
nearest  seventy-five  miles  distant  from  it,  and  re- 
ceding still  further,  in  proportion  to  its  progress. 
Its  breadth  is  about  forty-five  miles  :  and  its  ra- 
pidity is  about  four  miles  in  an  hour.  The  banks 
of  Newfoundland  appear  to  form  the  limits  of  its 
advancement  towards  the  north :  and  it  diverges 
from  thence,  passing  through  the  Azores  to  the 
southward,  until  its  impulse  becomes  gradually 
lost.  Retaining  a  great  portion  of  the  heat  which 
it  imbibed  in  the  tropical  climate,  on  its  arrival  at 
the  banks  of  Newfoundland,  it  is  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  degrees  of  Fahrenheit,  warmer,  than  the 
water  on  each  side  of  it,  from  which  it  differs  not 
only  in  this  respect,  but  in  darkness  of  colour 
and  greater  depth  of  soundings.  Whenever, 
therefore,  the  degree  of  temperature  in  the  atmos- 
phere becomes  colder  than  that  of  those  waters,  n 

C2 


i 


■u 


30  NEWFOUNDLAND. 

vapour  will  necessarily  arise  from  them,  which 
is  oiidensed,  and  frequently  covers  these  situa- 
tions with  a  moist  and  thick  air. 

The  cod-fish,  whose  alxnidancc  in  these  lati- 
tudes has  afforded  for  a  series  of  years  an  essen- 

« 

ivA  object  of  commercial  enterprise,  is  esteemed 
much  more  delicate  than  that  found  in  the  nor- 
thern seas  of  Europe,  althoujj^h  inferior  to  it  in 
whiteness.  The  length  of  this  fish  usually  ex- 
ceeds not  three  feet :  and  the  conformation  of  its 
organs  is  such,  as  to  render  it  indifferent  with  re». 
gard  to  the  selection  of  its  aliment.  The  voraci- 
ty of  its  appetite  prompts  it  indiscriminately  to 
swallow  every  substance  which  it.  is  capable  of 
gorging:  and  even  glass  and  iron  have  been 
found  in  the  stomach  of  this  fish,  which,  by  in« 
verting  itself,  has  the  power  of  becoming  disbur«. 
thened  of  its  indigestible  contents. 

The  fishermen  arrange  themselves  along  the 
side  of  the  vessel,  each  person  being  proA  ided  with 
lines  and  hooks.  When  a  fish  is  caught,  its 
tongue  is  immediately  cut  out :  and  it  is  delivered 
to  a  person,  in  whose  hands  having  undergone  a 
certain  degree  of  preparation,  it  is  dropped 
through  a  hatchway  between  decks,  where  part 
of  the  back  bone  is  taken  out :  and  the  cod  is 
thrown,  in  this  state,  through  a  second  hatchway 
into  the  hold,  to  be  salted.  When  a  quantity  of 
fish,  sufficient  to  fill  one  of  the  vessels,  is  caught 
and  salted,  she  sails  from  the  banks  to  the  ialaad^ 


.X'. 


NEWFOUNDLAND.  51 

U'here,  discharging  her  cargo,  she  returns  to  her 
station :  and,  in  the  course  of  the  season,  thus  re- 
news four  or  five  different  freights. 

The  cod-fish  is  dried  on  the  island,  and  larger 
vessels  arrive  from  England,  to  convey  it  from 
thence  to  the  European  markets.  In  packing 
the  fish  in  bulk,  in  the  hold  of  the  vessel,  much 
care  and  attention  are  requisite  :  and  the  greatest 
precautions  are  used  in  loading,  to  preserve  them 
from  exposure  to  the  moisture  of  the  atmosphere, 
by  spreading  sails  and  cloths  over  the  boats  in 
which  they  are  contained,  and  over  those  fish  al- 
ready in  the  vessel,  if  die  smallest  degree  of  damp- 
ness in  the  air  be  observable.  A  person,  denomi- 
nated culler^  or  inspector,  attends  the  loading  of 
each  vessel,  in  order  to  see  that  no  fish  which  is 
not  perfectly  cured,  be  introduced  into  the  car- 
go, which  otherwise  might  soon  become  dama- 
ged". 

The  price  of  fish  cured  at  Newfoundland,  is 
generally  fifteen  shillings  the  quintal :  and  it  nets 
in  Europe  about  twenty  shillings.  The  expence 
of  its  freight  to  the  coast  of  Spain,  is  two  shillings 
and  sixpence,  and  to  Leghorn  three  shillings,  the 
quintal. 

The  dried  fish  sent  to  the  West  Indies,  is  pack* 
ed  in  casks  ;  and  is  inferior  in  quality  to  that  car^ 
ried  to  Europe.  The  fish  which  is  salted  without 
being  dried,  is  termed  Core-fish,  or  green  cod. 
A  vessel  with  twelve  m^n,  torn,  the  middle  df 


H 


(  I 


32  NEWFOUNDLAND. 

April  to  July,  must  catch,  halt,  and  bring  inter 
port,  ten  thousand  fish,  otherwise  the  owners  will 
be  excluded  from  all  claim  to  the  established 
bounty  The  same  crew,  however,  usually 
procures,  during  the  season,  moie  tlian  double 
that  quantity. 

The  merchants  of  England  who  are  concerned 
in  these  fisheries,  supply  the  fishermen  upon  cre- 
dit with  every  article  of  which  they  may  be  in 
want ;  and  are  repaid  at  the  fall  of  the  year,  with 
the  produce  of  their  industry.  Several  hundred 
thousand  pounds  are  thus  annually  advanced,  in 
speculation,  on  an  object  of  commerce,  before  it 
is  extracted  from  the  bosom  of  the  ocean. 

About  four  hundred  ships,  amounting  to  thirty- 
six  thousand  tons  burden ;  two  thousand  fishing 
shallops,  of  twenty  thousand  tons ;  and  twenty 
thousand  men,  are,  in  times  of  tranquillity,  usu- 
ally employed  every  year  in  this  fishery.  About 
six  hundred  thousand  quintals  offish  are  annually 
taken,  which,  upon  an  average  of  seven  years,  are 
worth,  at  the  island,  fifteen  shillings  per  quintal. 
These,  with  the  other  amounts,  consisting  of  sal- 
mon, cod-oil,  seal-oil,  and  furs,  exceed  annually 
half  a  million  sterling.  Of  twenty  thousand  men 
from  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  employed  in 
that  fishery,  eight  thousand  necessarily  continued, 
when  their  country  was  not  at  war,  on  the  island 
ail  the  winter.  Several  thousand  still  remain  there 
during  that  season,  and  ai'e  occupied  in  repairing 


\ 


.•>.. 


^- ..  -«-*." 


NEWFOUNDLAND.  3S 

01*  building'  boat^j  and  sma'.l  vessels,  or  in  erecting 
the  scaffolds  for  drying  fish.  These  arc  not  pro- 
perly seafaring  men  ;  and  are  distinguished  by  the 
denomination  of  planters, 

Newfoundland,  which,  in  point  of  magnitude, 
may  be  classed  among  islands  of  the  first  extent,  is, 
in  fertility  of  soil,  as  far  as  it  has  hitherto  been  ex- 
plored, much  inferior  to  any  of  similar  dimensions. 
Whether  it  ever  had  native  inhabitants  has  not  been 
fully  ascertained :  and  its  sterility,  were  it  even  as 
real  as  is  supposed,  is  not  a  sufficient  reason  for  as- 
serting that  it  never  had  any ;  as  the  natives  of 
America,  in  general,  derive  their  subsistence,  not 
from  the  vegetable  productions  of  the  soil,  but 
from  fishing  and  the  chase.  The  Eskimaux  are 
tlie  only  people  who  have  been  found  there  r  and 
they  are  by  no  means  to  be  accounted  aborigines 
of  the  country.  The  neighbouring  territory  of 
Labrador  is  their  native  land,  where  they  pass  the 
greatest  part  of  the  year ;  and,  unattached  to  any 
particular  spot,  wander  over  an  immense  tract  of 
desert  and  inhospitable  wilds,  although  their  num- 
bers, if  collected,  would  scarcely  people  two  or 
three  villages.  Throughout  this  prodigious  and 
dreary  expanse  of  region,  called  by  the  Spaniards 
Labrador,  and  by  the  French,  New  Brittany, 
which  is  bounded  by  the  river  Saint  Lawrence 
and  the  North  Sea,  and  also  by  the  coasts  of  New- 
foundland, no  savages,  the  Eskimaux  excepted,, 
are  to  be  met  with,     They  are  likewise  found  tit 


ff 


J 


n 


■  I 


1  ' 


54  NitWrOUNDLAND, 

a  considerable  distance  from  Hudson's  Bay,  ou 
riverjj  wliich  flow  tiom  the  westward. 

Their  name  is  said  to  be  derived  from  a  word 
in  the  Abinaquis  language,  Esqiiima7itsic,  import- 
ing, an  eater  of  raw  flesh ;  they  being  the  only 
people  knou'n  in  North  America,  who  use  their 
food  in  that  state,  'i'hey  are  likewise  the  only 
savages  who  permit  their  beards  to  grow.  They 
assume  the  appellation  of  Keralite^  or  mciu  They 
arc  of  a  middling  stature,  generally  robust,  lusty, 
and  of  a  brown  colour.  Tlie  oil  of  the  whale,  and 
that  of  the  sea-cow  and  porpus,  constitutes  the 
most  esocntiul  part  of  their  food,  contributing;  to 
defend  the  stomach  from  the  penetrating  cflfects 
of  cold. 

The  nature  of  their  aliment  imparts  to  their  con- 
stitution  lliat  fulness,  and  to  their  complexion  that 
greasy  sallowness  for  which  they  are  remarked. 
Their  head  is  large  in  proportion,  and  their  face 
round  and  flat ;  their  lips  are  thick ;  their  eyes 
dark,  small  and  sparkling,  but  inexpressive ;  their 
nose  is  flat ;  their  hair  black,  long,  and  lank  ;  their 
shoulders  are  large ;  and  their  feet  uncommonly 
small.  They  are  disposed  to  be  lively ;  are  subtile, 
cunning,  addicted  to  theft,  irritable,  but  easily  inti- 
midated ;  andincapable  of  long  entertaining,  or  con- 
cealing, sentiments  of  hatred  or  revenge.  They  arc 
the  only  people  on  the  continent  of  America,  who. 
in  character  or  appearance,  exhibit  tlie  smallest  re- 
semblance to  the  inhabitants  of  the  northern  parts 
of  Europe, 


\'^ 


NEWFOUNDLAND.  ^S 

Their  covering  is  made  of  the  skins  of  seals,  or 
of  wi;d  animals,  or  of  those  of  the  land  and  sea 
fowls  which  frequent  tlutir  territory,  and  which 
they  have  acquired  the  art  of  sewing  together.  A 
species  of  capuchin,  or  coat  with  a  hood,  fitted 
closely  to  the  body,  and  descending  to  the  middle 
of  the  thigh,  forms  a  principal  part  of  their  dress. 
They  also  wear  trowsers  of  the  same  materia Is^ 
drawn  together  before  and  behind  with  a  cord. 
Several  pairs  of  socks,  with  boots,  are  worn  by 
both  sexes,  to  defend  the  legs  and  feet  from  the 
penetrating  cold.  The  dress  of  the  women  is  dis- 
tinguished from  that  of  the  men  by  a  tail,  w  hich 
falls  a  considerable  way  down;  by  their  capuchins 
being  much  larger  towards  the  shoulders,  in  order 
to  cover  their  children,  when  they  wish  to  carry 
them  on  their  backs ;  and  by  their  boots  being 
much  wider,  and  ornamented  with  w  halebone.  In 
these  they  frequently  place  their  infants  for  safety, 
and  for  warmth.  Some  of  the  men  wear  shirts 
made  of  bladders  of  the  sea-calf,  sewed  together 
with  a  needle  of  bone ;  the  thread  being  formed  of 
the  nerves  of  animals,  minutely  divided. 

They  are  averse  to  industry  or  exertion ;  and 
seldom  give  themselves  the  trouble  of  construct- 
ing wigwams,  or  huts.  The  warmth  of  their  sto- 
mach, and  the  nature  of  their  cloathing,  producing 
a  sufficient  degree  of  heat,  they  arc  satisfied  with 
the  shelter  afforded  by  tents  made  of  hides  loosely 
thrown  together,  by  the  rocky  cavenisofthe  sea- 


I 


if 


'I 


•  ,1-  ( 


S6  KEWrOt7NDLAND^ 

coast,  or  by  placing  themselves  to  the  leeward  of  a 
bank  of  snow.  In  the  caverns  they  sometimes 
make  use  of  a  lamp,  formed  of  a  large  hollow  boiiC, 
containing  a  quantity  of  oil ;  but  this  is  only  for 
the  convenience  of  procuring  light,  as  they  aj)pcar 
to  be  ignorant  of  the  application  of  fire  to  culinary 
purposes.  The  air  proceeding  from  their  lungs 
is  so  mephitical  and  offensive,  that  two  or  more 
of  them  shut  up  in  a  small  and  close  apart- 
ment, and  thus  excluded  from  free  air,  would  pro- 
bably not  long  survive.  It  is  only  of  late  years 
that  spirituous  liquors  have  been  introduced  a- 
mong  them:  and,  notwithstanding  the  severe 
cold  of  their  climate,  a  quantity  of  rum  remained 
for  a  considerable  time  in  the  possession  of  one  of 
their  chiefs,  before  any  of  thes^  natives  would 
hazard  an  experiment  of  its  effects.  Fortunate 
had  it  been  for  them  if  they  still  continued  in  ig- 
norance of  that  liquor,  which  has  proved  so  bane- 
ful to  a  great  portion  of  the  uncivilized  inhabitants 
of  America ! 

The  instruments  which  they  use  for  the  chase, 
and  in  fishing,  are  constructed  with  much  neat- 
ness and  ingenuity.  Their  bows  are  composed 
of  three  pieces  of  pine,  or  larch-tree,  which  being 
neither  strong  nor  very  elastic,  these  defects  are 
remedied  by  fortifying  them  behind  with  a  band 
of  deer's  tendons,  which,  when  wetted,  contract, 
and  at  once  communicate  elasticity  and  force. 
Ever  since  they  have  been  visited  by  Europeans, 


they  h 
whene^ 
bow  fa 
Like 
their  w 
their  afl 
temlc-i-. 
but  fcv 
or  give 
of  term: 
ivhich  tl 
Thcii 
cd.     Tl 
the  one, 
other,  t( 
3nagc,  a; 
Their 
degree  c 
bestowe( 
ed  at  eat 
skins  of 
is  an  ape 
which  th 
its  mom 
hands,  a 
side,   he 
is  tossed 
to  peneti 
Newfc 
Ijle,  abo 


.'^ril'WtilliV  Hi 


they  have  given  a  prcftrcncc  to  the  fusee  :  and 
whenever  that  iiistrunient  can  be  procured,  the 
bow  falls  into  disuse. 

Like  all  other  men  in  the  savage  state,  they  treat 
their  wives  with  great  coldness  and  neglect :  but 
their  affection  towards  their  offspring  is  lively  and 
tcndLV.  Their  language  is  guttural,  and  contains 
but  few  words :  so  that  they  express  new  ideas, 
or  give  names  to  novel  objects,  by  a  combiriation 
of  terms,  indicative  of  the  qualities  of  the  things 
which  they  wish  to  describe. 

Their  ideas  of  religion  are  obscure  and  contract- 
ed. They  acknowledge  two  invisible  essences ; 
the  one,  they  represent  as  the  origin  of  good ,  the 
other,  to  ^^  horn  they  pay  the  most  frequent  ho- 
jTiagc,  as  that  of  every  species  of  evil. 

Their  canoes  are  formed  with  no  inconsiderable 
degree  of  art :  and  much  industry  appears  to  be 
bestowed  on  their  construction.  They  are  point- 
ed at  each  extremii)  ;  and  are  covered  with  the 
skins  of  sea-animals.  In  the  upper  part,  or  deck, 
is  an  aperture  with  a  bag  affixed  to  it,  through 
which  the  savage  introduces  his  body  ;  and,  tying 
its  mouth  around  his  waist,  and  taking  in  his 
hands,  a  paddle  which  he  uses  alternately  on  each 
side,  he  shoots  through  the  waves,  by  Avhich  he 
is  tossed  and  buffeted,  while  the  water  is  un.  ble 
to  penetrate  the  slender  vessel  in  \\  hich  he  rides. 

Newfoundland  extends  in  the  Ibrm  of  a  trian* 
:gle,  about  a  iiundred  leagues  fiom  east  to  west. 

D 


^-^^s"':  »i*i.-".^^;.'. 


4i 


h 


:# 


I'. 


\-\ 


II 


38  NEWFOUNDLAND. 

and  a  hundred  and  twcnly-fivo  from  north  t« 
south ;  being  situated  between  forty -bix  and  fifty- 
two  degrees  of  north  latitude.  J(jhn  Gabato,  a 
Venetian,  was  its  first  discoverer,  under  the  pa- 
tronage  of  king  Henry  the  Seventh  of  England. 
No  advantage  was  derived  from  thence,  until  the 
lapse  of  a  period  of  near  forty  years.  Cape  Baee, 
and  Cape  Ray,  are  the  two  promontories  which 
present  themselves  to  mariners  saifing  lor  the  river 
Saint  Lawrence.  Eighteen  leagues  to  the  west- 
ward of  the  first,  aj")pears  Cape  Saint  Mary,  which 
forms  the  entrance  of  the  bay  of  Placentia  towards 
the  east.  This  bay  is  sixteen  leagues  in  breadth, 
aiid  twenty  in  depth.  Towards  its  head  is  the 
Iiarbour,  capable  of  containing  in  safety  one  hun- 
dred and  filly  vessels,  and  defended  by  a  fort  call- 
ed Saint  Louis.  The  French  were  the  first  Eu- 
ropeans who  frequented  this  situation.  Between 
Placentia  and  Cupe  Ray,  the  western  point  of  the 
island,  two  other  bays,  of  considerable  extent, 
penetrate  some  distiiuce  into  the  country.  They 
are  distinguished  by  the  appellations  of  Fortiuic 
and  Despair.  No  settlements  have  yet  been  made 
on  their  coasts:  and  they  are  but  little  frequented. 
Cape  Ray,  together  with  the  island  of  Saint  Paul, 
about  fiiteen  leagues  distant  from  it,  form  the  en- 
trance into  the  gulph  of  Saint  Lawrence :  and 
vessels  sailing  thither,  must  pass,  in  clear  weather^ 
in  sight  of  the  one,  or  of  the  other.  Besides  the 
t)dys  aircrtdy  noticed,  this  island  contains  a  variety 


1 


\  1. 


NEWFOUNDLAND.  39 

of  Others,  particularly  on  the  eastern  coast,  among 
U'hich  t\\  o  are  remarkable  for  their  extent ;  those 
of  Trinity  and  Conccjjtion.  Near  the  latter  is 
the  h.irbour  of  Saint  John,  which  is  secarc  and 
well  fortified. 

Bordered  by  dark  and  gloomy  rocks,  which 
exhibit  a  barren,  inhospitable  appearance,  the 
country,  on  a  nearer  view  of  its  soil,  belies  not  the 
character  of  its  rude  uninviting  features,  which, 
amid  their  nakedness,  display  neither  grandeur  nor 
sublimity.  At  a  league  distant  from  the  entrance 
of  Saint  John's  harbour,  no  opening  in  the  coast  is 
discernible.  A  white  tower,  raised  on  a  precii)it- 
ous  eminence,  seems  rather  intended  as  a  murk 
to  warn  vessels  of  the  danger  of  approaching  the 
rocky  shore,  than  as  a  beacon  to  conduct  them  to 
a  place  of  safety.  On  a  nearer  examination  of  it, 
its  strength  becomes  apparent,  and  no  hostile  ves- 
sel can  enter,  with  impunity,  the  narrow  chasm 
beneath.  This  structure,  situated  on  a  part  of 
the  precipice,  on  the  south  side  of  the  entrance  of 
Saint  John,  is  named  Fort  Amherst.  The  inlet, 
called  the  Narrows,  exceeds  not  five  hundred  feet 
in  w  idth.  On  each  side,  tow^ards  the  north,  the 
rocks  rise  to  the  altitude  of  four  hundred  feet : 
but  on  the  south  shore,  they  are  oi  less  eleva* 
tion.    ■  :■;  .  •  ■ 

Heath,  juniper,  and  wild  spruce,  the  offspring 
of  sterility,  sparingly  cover  the  rocky  surface. 
The  appeuru     ^  of  the  harbour  and  its  environs^ 


'i'.JUH^ 


^riv  •  • 


r;.'MfMiiM«A< 


'I 


. 


'10  NEWFOUNDLAND. 

is,  nevertheless  wild  iind  pietiircsquc.  In  pre^. 
ceedijig  further  up  ilie  ir.let,  a  battery,  called 
South  Fort,  is  placed  on  the  lelt ;  and  another, 
named  Chain-rock,  on  the  right.  At  a  consider- 
a!;le  elevation  above  the^e,  several  little  ibrtt;  are 
seen.  A  rock,  in  the  lorm  of  a  cone,  is  crowned 
with  a  batter}',  constructed  under  the  direction  of 
the  late  Sir  James  Wallace,  who,  in  171^'G,  was 
vice-admiral  on  the  station,  and  governor  of  the 
island ;  and  with  a  fifty-gun  ship,  two  frigates, 
and  two  slo(3ps  of  sixteen  guns  each,  made  a  gal- 
lant and  siicces'oful  deferxe  agahist  the  attacks  of 
Admiral  Richery,  \\  hose  force  consisted  of  sevca 
ships  of  the  line,  and  three  fiigates. 

Viewed  from  the  summit  ofthis  eminence,  the 
tov,  n  and  the  scaffolds  on  w  hich  the  fish  are  placed 
to  dry,  present  a  singular  appeanmcc.  These 
sxadbkls  arc  generally  forty  feet  high,  and  con- 
sist of  several  stages,  on  the  rafters  of  each  of  which 
a  quantity  of  brush -wood  is  pkiccd.  They  arc 
sufficicndy  strong  to  support  the  weight  of  the 
green  fish,  and  also,  occasionally,  of  one  or 
tw  o  men.  These  are  erected  in  every  situation, 
as  w  ell  in  the  vallies,  as  on  the  margins  of  the 
perpendicular  rocks. 

The  town  of  Saint  John  borders  on  the  basin  : 
and  its  situation  affords  no  attractions,  except  to 
those  \\  horn  interest  or  necessity  induces  lo  con- 
sult the  advantage,  rather  than  the  pleasure,  aris- 
mg  from  diversity  of  local  situation.     It  contains 


^" 


NEWFOUNDLAND.  41 

i  church  and  two  chapels  i  one  for  the  catholic 
religion ;  the  others  for  persons  of  the  methodist- 
l^ersuasion ;  also  a  court-house,  and  a  custom* 
house. 

An  officer  of  the  customs  was,  until  lately,  plac- 
ed at  the  head  of  the  law  department,  and  decid- 
ed not  only  in  civil,  but  in  criminal  causes.  A 
gentleman  who  has  been  bred  to  the  bar,  at  pre- 
sent fills  the  situation  of  judge  of  the  island. 
The  buildings  are  mean,  and  the  streets  narrow 
and  dirty^  Fort  Townshend  is  placed  above  the 
town ;  and  contains  the  house  allotted  for  the  go- 
vernor,  with  the  store-houses  and  magazines, 
which  form  a  square.  From  hence,  the  entrance, 
the  harbour,  the  narrows  sunk  between  elevated 
precipices;  and  the  water,  covered  with  small 
vessels,  passing  and  re-passing,  form  a  lively  and 
busy  scene  'i'hese,  together  with  the  town,  and 
the  adjacent  country,  diversified  by  lakes  with  ver- 
dant borders,  exhibit,  in  the  midst  of  a  barren 
wild,  a  combination  which  may,  for  a  short  peri- 
od, afford  the  charms  of  noveltv. 

Over  a  place  called  the  barrens,  is  a  road  which 
leads  from  Fort  Townshend  to  Fort  William, 
commanding  the  narrows  and  the  harbour.  With 
the  latter,  Signal-hill,  from  whence  the  approacli 
of  ships  is  announced,  communicafts.  Its  per- 
l^endicular  height  from  the  sea,  is  four  hundred 
ai id  four  feet:  and  it  contains,  on  its  summit,. 
Iwo  poudsj  affording  excellent  water, 

D'2 


f;»^ 


■'•■^^^  ^ 


,^.^^.Wa.      .---    -  - -^   jifcUTil    1  111     I  m>t  ,L.' 


IS 

m 


H 


1    ■ 
I    ■ 


s  \ 


.  I\„ 


A2  newfoundlanbJ 

The  bay  of  Buils  lies  about  twenty-eight  mileS 
from  Saint  John's.  The  internal  parts  of  the  is- 
land have  never  yet  been  explored  by  the  Eng- 
lish. A  veiy  small  portion  of  land  is  at  present 
cultivated  ;  as  neither  the  soil  nor  climate  are  fa- 
vourable to  productions  necessary  for  the  sup- 
port of  life.  The  duration  of  summer  is  too 
short :  and  no  kind  of  grain  has  sufficient  time 
to  arrive  at  maturity.  The  winter  breaks  up  in 
May  :  and,  antil  the  end  of  September,  the  air  is 
temperate,  during  which  the  progress  of  vegeta- 
tion is  sufficiently  rapid.  Hay  and  grass  are  here 
of  a  very  indifferent  quality.  The  land  is  so  spa- 
ringly covered  with  soil,  that  much  labour  and 
expence  are  necessary  to  produce  a  crop,  which 
but  poorly  recompences  the  industry  of  the  hus- 
bandman. The  quantity  of  ground  used  for  the 
purposes  of  cultivation,  is  therefore  very  small : 
aiid  the  prohibition  of  the  parent  state  against  at- 
tempts to  colonize,  are,  by  the  sterile  nature  of  the 
country,  rendered  almost  unnecessary.  The 
fishermen  are,  in  times  of  warfare,  enjoined  to  re- 
turn to  England  :  and  the  merchant  is  authorized, 
to  retain  from  the  wages  of  each  person  in  his  em- 
ploy, a  certain  proportion  as  a  provision,  in  case  of 
incapacity  from  poverty  or  sickness,  for  any  indi- 
vidual to  return  to  his  country.  By  this  prudent 
rci^ulation,  no  seaman,  thus  engaged,  can  be  lost 
to  the  service  of  the  state. 

Tiie  Juni^iibh  aiid  French  long  shared  between 


■  •  v> 


it  milefi 
the  is- 
e  Eng- 
present 
2  are  fa- 
he  sup- 
r  is  too 
mi  tiipe 
LS  up  in 
he  air  is 
vegeta- 
are  here 
s  so  spa- 
Dour  and 
p,  which 
the  hus- 
d  for  the 
small : 
yainst  at- 
ire  of  the 
y.     The 
ed  to  re- 
horized, 
II  his  em- 
in  case  of 
my  indi- 
prudent 
In  be  lost 

betweeii 


fJEWFOUNDLAND.  43 

tliem,  the  privilege  of  drying  their  fish  on  the 
coasts  of  this  island;  the  latter  occupying  the 
southern  and  northern  parts,  and  the  Ibrmer  the 
eastern  shores.  The  interior  is  composed  of 
mountains,  covered  with  woods  of  an  indifferent 
quality.  The  animals  found  here,  are  foxes,  por- 
cupines, hares,  squirrels,  lynxes,  otters,  beavers, 
wolves,  and  bears.  The  chace  is  difficult,  and 
unattended  with  profit.  The  land  and  water, 
fowl  are,  partridges,  snipes,  woodcocks,  falcons, 
geese,  ducks,  and  penguins.  In  the  bays  and  ri- 
vers are  found  fish  of  various  kinds,  such  as  sal- 
mon, eels,  herring,  mackarel,  plaice,  trout,  and  al- 
most every  description  of  shcU-fish. 

The  territory  which  was  requisite  to  prepare 
the  cod-fish,  belonged  at  first,  to  any  person  who 
took  possession  :  and  from  this  inconvenience,  a 
source  of  frequent  discord  arose.  The  property 
of  that  part  of  the  coast,  of  which  he  made  choice, 
was  at  length,  by  the  interference  of  government, 
secured  to  each  fisherman.  By  this  judicious  ar- 
rangement, expeditions  thither  were  multiplied 
so  greatly,  that  in  1615,  vessels  from  the  British 
dominions,  equal  in  all  to  fifteen  thousand  tons, 
were  employed  in  the  fishery.  The  value  of  this 
island  soon  became  apparent,  not  only  as  a  source 
of  national  wealth,  arising  from  the  exchange  of 
fish  for  the  various  productions  and  luxuries^ 
Which  the  southern  parts  oi  Europe  afibrd,  but 


'r-.f*^-' 


^  V,   ,  ,-J^    _ii: i_^i,»*.jt.r*i; 


fi 


;  t] 


«i 


44  MEWFOUVDLANl?. 

wilut  is  Still  of  gnattr  inipoi'tance,  as  a  principal 
nursery  lor  the  navy. 

The  property  of  this  island  was,  by  the  peace  of 
Utrecht,  confiitncd  to  Great  Britain ;  and  the  sub- 
jects of  France  preserved  only  the  right  of  fishmg 
from  cape  Bonavista  northwards,  and  to  cape 
Rich  on  the  opposite  side.  This  line  of  demar* 
cation  was  afterwards  altered,  and  j^laced  at  cape 
Ray,  on  the  western  side  of  the  island. 

The  floating  masses  of  ice,  which  pass  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  eastern  coast,  and  sometimes  enter 
the  straits  of  Beiislc,  in  the  summer  months,  ex- 
hibit to  mariners  an  awful  and  singular  spectacle. 
These  enormous  mounds,  the  accumulated  oi")e- 
ration  of  cold  for  a  series  of  years,  in  the  arctic- 
regions,  are  detached  from  the  coasts  near  Hud- 
son's Bay,  and  Davis's  Straits,  by  storms,  and  o- 
ther  causes.  They  sometimes  exceed  an  hun- 
died  and  forty  feet  in  altitude ;  and  their  basis 
beneath  the  sea  usually  doubles  those  dimensions. 
Rivulets  of  fresh  water,  produced  by  their  gradu- 
al dissolution,  distil  from  tlieir  summits.  We 
had  an  opportunity  of  viewing  three  of  these  stu- 
pendous piles  by  the  light  of  the  moon,  whose 
rays,  reflected  in  various  directions,  from  their 
glassy  surface,  produced  an  effect  no  less  pleasing 
than  novel.  They  become  either  stranded  in 
shallow  water,  until  they  are  melted  down,  or 
grow  so  porous,  that  they  subside  under  the  sur- 
face of  tiie  ocean.    In  fogs,  mid  even  in  the  gloom 


i 


and  effiil^ 
'i'he  is 
are  nothii 
the  southi 
ceded  to 
I  condition 
I  nor  more 
I  l()rce  the  r 
f  capable  of 
j  were  inhab 
i  men,  for  tl 
The  ge 
was,  many 
ciccuracv. 
in  length,  ; 
named  the 
eastern  exi 
Nova  Scoti 
foundland  a 
entrance  int 
figure  is  vc 
by  bays  anc 
Ipartsjoin,  c 
hundred  pa( 
jswampy,  an 

•a^ly,   ill  ad 
towards  the 


l^ 


NEWFOUNDLAND.  45^ 

ofni.Gjhtjthey  are  discaverable  at  some  distance,  by 
tlic  cold  which  they  emit,  and  by  their  whiteness 
and  effulgence. 

The  islands  of  Saint  Peter's  and  of  Miquelon, 
are  nothing  else  than  barren  rocks,  not  far  from 
the  southern  coast  of  ;>Iev/foundland.  They  were 
ceded  to  the  French  by  tlie  treaty  of  1763,  on 
condition  that  no  fortifications  should  be  erected, 
nor  more  than  fifty  soldiers  kept  on  them  to  en- 
force the  police.  The  former  possesses  a  harbour, 
capable  of  containing  thirty  small  vessels.  They 
were  inhabited,  in  times  of  peace,  by  a  few  French- 
men, for  the  purpose  of  carrying  on  the  fishery. 

The  geographical  position  of  Cape  Breton, 
was,  many  years  ago,  ascertained  with  tolerable 
accuracy.  A  narrow  passage  of  about  four  leagues 
in  length,  and  scarcely  half  a  league  in  breadth^ 
named  the  gut  of  Canso,  separates  it  from  tlie 
eastern  extremity  of  the  peninsula  of  Haliiax  or 
Nova  Scotia.    It  forms,  with  the  islands  of  New- 
foundland and  Saint  Paul,  the  boundaries  of  the 
I  entrance  into  the  gulph  of  Saint  Lawrence.     Its 
figure  is  very  irregular:  and  it  is  so  intersected 
by  bays  and  small  rivers,  that  the  two  principal 
jparts  join,  only  by  a  neck  of  not  more  than  eight 
Ihundred  paces  wide.     The  soil,  in  many  places 
|swampy,  and  covered  with  light  moss,  is,  gene- 
rally,  ill  adapted  for  cultivation.     On  the  lands 
bowurds  the  south  side,  corn,  hemp,  and  flax,  are. 


>  {i 


i- 


'  / 


V  I 


1  '> 


I  •■ 


t!,  . 


:i) 


i    I 


!■' 


V 


% 


46  NEWFOUNDLAND. 

raised.     Coal- mines,  and  likewise  plaster  of  Pa- 
ris, are  here  found. 

All  the  harbours  are,  on  the  cast,  open  to  the 
sea.  I'he  north  coast  is  elevated,  and  almost  in^ 
accessible.  The  harbour  of  Louisbourg,  once 
among  the  finest  in  North  America,  is  on  the  east- 
ern  coast :  and  extends  into  the  country  four 
leagues,  in  a  winding  direction,  containing  good 
anchorage,  and  every  where  at  least  seven  fa- 
thoms  of  water.  The  entrance,  between  two 
small  islands,  is  four  hundred  yards  wide ;  and 
by  means  of  Cape  Lorembec  in  its  vicinity,  is 
discoverable  at  sea  for  a  considerable  distance,  i 
On  the  fortifications  of  this  harbour,  the  French  | 
expended  nciw  a  million  and  a  half  pounds  ster-| 
ling.  ^ 

This  island,  denominated  by  the  French  Ile\ 
Jioi/aie,  contained,  while  in  their  possession,  up. 
wards  of  four  thousand  mhabitants,  whose  indus-] 
try  was  almost  wholly  apphed  to  the  fisheries  ;  as, 
from  the  sterility  of  the  soil,   neither  agriculture] 
nor  breeding  of  ."^uttle  could  succeed  to  any  exj 
tent :  and  from  the  paucity  of  wild  animals,  pel- 
try could  never  become  an  object  of  commerce.! 
The  island  i^  about  thirty. six  leagues  in  length,! 
and  twenty-two  in  its  greatest  breadth.     It  is  en-j 
vironed  by  rocks  :  and  the  climate,  although  sutJ 
ficientiy  healthy,  is  not  agreeable,  being  subject  toj 
frequent  and  thick   fogs*     It  was  conquered   in 
I75d,  by  the  British  forces  under  General  WolieJ 


^^(^^Ssutwrt^w 


:wf»'tm,,i^..>.-^-_^.   -._  - 


i^EWTOt^NDlANl).  4'7 

The  inhabitants  are  at  present  not  numerous; 
and  the  officer  who  commands  the  troops,  usual- 
ly a  brigadier- general,  in  time  of  war,  is  invest- 
ed also  with  the  powers  of  civil  governor.  His 
residence  is  at  Sidney,  the  capital.  , 

The  subjects  upon  which  I  have  now  so  long' 
dwelt,  arc,  I  am  afraid,  from  their  barrenness, 
but  little  interesting ;  nor  can  I,  at  present,  in- 
dulge  the  hope  of  aftbrding  information  or  enter- 
tainment which  will  appear  much  more  gratifying. 
Of  rude,  imcultivated  regions,  there  can  be  few 
descriptions  but  such  as  are  nrierely  geographical, 
or  relating  to  natives,  equally  unimproved  with 
the  wilds  and  forests  which  they  traverse  or  in- 
habit. 

Canada  presents  few  objects  which  can  occupy' 
the  enquiries  of  an  antiquarian ;  and  it  contains^ 
I  perhaps,  in  less  variety  than  many  other  portions 
of  the  globe,  productions  which  can  recompcncc 
the  researches  of  the  naturalist.  Its  lakes  and  ri* 
vers,  it  is  true,  are  the  vast  and  principal  objects 
which  are  calculated  to  inspire  wonder  and  grati- 
lication.  The  immense  volumes,  the  irresisti- 
Ible  weight  and  velocity  of  the  latter,  tearing 
[througli  and  overpowering  the  obstacles  opposed 
to  their  course,  by  the  rugged  and  unequal  terri- 
tories amid  which  they  roll,  produce  falls  and 
cataracts  of  singular  sublimity,  and  of  command- 
ing beauty  :  these,  altlK)ugh  in  some  degree  si- 

lila.  in  efibct,  are,  notwithstanding,  inexhausti- 
)Ie  in  variety. 


4a 


eVLTH    OF   "SAINT    lAWRKKCZ. 


CHAPTER  III. 


(■    ; 


'i 


i-  i 


Cuiph  of  Saint  Lawrence— -Prince  Edward^s  island^-m 
Bird  isles— -Bay  of  Chaleurs ;  it*  commerce,  and 
that  of  Gaspe— state  of  agriculture— 'route  to  the 
capital— 'perforated  rock— the  Ganet — mouth  of  the 
great  river— Anticosti— wild  aspect  presented  by 
the  coasts  on  either  side  the  river — river  Saguenay 
—waterfall— 'boldness  of  shores— 'immense  depth- 
king'' s  posts— account  of  the  mountaineers — Malbay 
—Coudres— Saint  Paulas  bay— Camourasca— island 
of  Orleans, 

THE  Gulph  of  Saint  Lawrence,  as  well  as 
the  great  river  which  there  disembogues  its  wa- 
ters, received  its  name  from  Jacques  Cartier,  who 
in  1535  ascended  as  far  as  Montreal.     Its  boun- 
daries  are  the  coasts  of  Labrador,  Nova  Scotia, 
Cape  Breton,  and  Newfoundland.     The  island  of 
Saint  John,  whose  name  is  now  changed  to  that  of 
Prince  Edward's  island,  was  first  settled  by  Aca- 
dians,  in  1749  :  and  their  number  soon  amount- 
ed to  three  thousand.     When  the  English  tooki 
possession  of  it,  the  former  people  retired  to  the  | 
continent.     Its  present  condition  is  flourishing : 
and  its  inhabitants  amount  to  about  seven  thou- 1 
sand.     The  soil,  vxhici:  is  level,  is  in  general  ltr-| 
tile,  is  watered   l)y  rivulets  and  springs;  is  di- 
versified with  nici.Uows  ibr  pabture,  and  with  si- 


.  - ''  *^*j 


(itLTK  «F  SAINT  LAWRENtK.  4?) 

luations  which  would  be  well  adapted  for  the  cu!»^ 
ture  of  grain,  were  it  not,  that  from  the  frecjuen. 
cy  of  fogs,  that  article  is  liable  to  be  destroyed  !)y 
mildew.  Tlie  climate  is  likewise  siil)jcct  to  dry 
weather,  when  insects  and  vermin,  hostile  to  vc- 
jretable  productions,  are  abundantly  propag.iticl. 
The  island  is  upwards  of  an  hundied  und  ten 
miles  in  length  ;  and  its  greatest  breadth  docs 
not  much  exceed  nine.  It  bends  in  the  form  of 
a  crescent,  €ach  extremity  terminating  in  a  sharp 
point.  The  harbours  are  commodious  and  sale. 
Cod-fish  is  found  in  great  plenty  all  around  its 
coasts.  A  channel,  five  leagues  in  width,  sepa- 
rates it  from  the  continent :  and  Green  Bay,  near- 
ly opposite  the  center  of  the  island,  enters  the 
country  more  than  four  leagues,  forming,  witli 
the  bay  of  Fundy,  the  isthmus,  whose  breadth  iis 
about  five  leagues,  that  connects  the  peninsula  of 
Nova  Scotia  with  the  main  land.  At  the  bottom 
of  Greea-bay  the  French  had  some  seitleiNcnts, 
and  a  small  fort.  Several  families  are  now  estab- 
lisiied  on  that  part  of  the  coast,  and  a  road  of  com- 
munication from  Pictou  to  Halifax,  has  lateh/ 
been  opened. 

Not  far  from  the  entrance  of  the  gulph,  and 
some  vhat  to  the  northward,  the  Magdalen  isles, 
which  are  seven  in  number,  and  of  small  extent, 
preiicnt  themselves  in  a  cluster.  They  are  inha- 
bited by  a  few  families,  whose  principal  support. 

E 


^ 


'n 


.;  ^— "•*«»- 


i  i 


!  I.. 

V 


50  CULPH  OF   SAINT  LAWRENCE. 

IS  derived  from  fishing.  The  Bird  ibiey,  situated 
ill  the  gulph,  consist  of  two  rocks,  elevated  above 
Ihc  water,  upwards  of  an  hundred  feet;  their  flat- 
tened summits,  wliose  cireumftrence  exceeds 
3iot,  eaoh,  three  hundred  paces,  exhibit  a  resplen- 
dcnl  whiteness,  produced  by  the  quantities  of  or- 
dure, with  which  they  are  covered,  from  immense 
flocks  of  birds;  which,  in  summer,  take  posses- 
sion of  the  apertures  in  their  perpendicular  cliffs, 
where  they  form  their  nests  and  produce  their 
young.  When  alarmed,  they  hover  abo^'e  the 
rocks,  and  overshadow  their  tops  by  their  num- 
bers. Thp  abundance  of  their  eggs  affords  to 
the  inhabitants  of  tl\e  neighbouring  coast,  a  ma- 
terial supply  of  food. 

A  vast  inlet,  penetrating  into  the  country  for  a 
great  many  leagues  to  the  westward,  is  called  the 
bay  ot  Clialeurs,  which  being  advantageously  pla- 
ced for  carr}  ing  on  fisheries,  has  on  its  borders,  a 
conijiderable  number  of  inhabitants.  Jacques 
Curlier,  in  1534,  sailed  into  this  bay  ;  and  from 
the  heat  which  he  there  experienced  in  the  mid- 
dle of  summer,  gave  it  the  name  which  it  still  re- 
tains. Notwithstanding  the  more  northerly  situa- 
tion of  this  bay,  the  cold  is  not  so  intense  here  as 
at  Quebec,  being  moderated  by  tlie  sea  air.  The 
depth  of  snow  in  the  woods,  during  the  Winter 
season,  is  from  six  to  eight  feet ;  but  varying  ac- 
cording to  the  different  situations,  and  the  degiees 
of  severity  in  the  weather.   It  is  not  before  the  be- 


\: 


\*' 


GOLPH  OF  TvAINT  LAWREMOE.  51 

ginning  of  iMay,  tliatthc  influence  ot'thc  sun  u[j- 
on  vegetation  is  here  materially  felt ;  nor  is  it  be- 
fore  that  time,  that  the  woods  are  entirely  clear- 
ed of  snow. 

It  may  be  observed  as  a  curious  circumstance, 
tliat  for  six,  eight,  and  ten  le:\[:;ucs  from  the  shores 
of  tliis  bay,  in  proceeding  into  the  woods,  travel- 
lers and  huntsmen  frequently  meet  \\  ilh  spots  oi 
about  two  or  three  acres  in  suril\ce,  entirely  bare, 
and  yet  surrounded  with  seven  or  eight  feet  depth 
of  snow ;  which,  in  times  of  bad  weather,  melts 
as  it  falls,  both  on  those  situations,  and  on  the 
trees,  to  which  they  afford  growth.  Those  spots, 
in  their  relative  position  to  the  head  of  the  bay, 
extend  from  east  to  west,  being  usually  found  m 
that  direction ;  and  their  denudation  of  snow  may 
probably  be  occasioned  by  subterraneous  heat, 
which  approaching  nearer  to  the  suriace  of  the 
^ound,  produces  the  effect  wliich  has  been  dc> 
scribed. 

Neither  minerals,  nor  mineral  waters,  have  yet 
been  discovered  in  this  district.  The  timber 
which  grows  here  consists  of  spruce,  fir,  white  and 
black  birch,  beech,  ehn,  and  oak,  which,  beinj^, 
porous,  is  of  little  value. 

The  island  of  Bonaventure,  is  about  a  league- 
from  the  north  shore  of  the  entrance  into  the  bav  .- 
and  a  small  number  of  persons  winter  on  it,  for 
no  other  puq:>ose  than  to  retain  possession  of  their 
fisheries.     About  twenty. one  leagues  up  the  bny. 


^f*-" 


rl>li;*»-**««1*t- 


^ 


^ 


\:l 


^2  C;UL1»H.  OF   SAINT  LAWRENCE. 

there  is  a  parish  of  the  same  name   with  the   in- 
land. 

Cod-fish,  salmon,  and  herrings  arc  the  only  pro- 
ductions of  c(jmmerce  derived  irom  tlie  bays  of 
Gaspc  and  Chaleurs.  Ship-buildhig  has  of  late 
years  been  here  tried  with  success  ;  but  whcthei' 
©r  not  it  will  answer  in  time  of  peace,  is  uncer- 
tain. There  are  about  three  hundred  families 
settled  all  along  the  coast  of  the  district  of  Gaspe, 
who  are  chiefly  of  the  Roman  Catholic  religion, 
and  whose  sole  occupation  is  fishing.  The  pro- 
duce of  their  industry  is  transported  to  foreign 
markets,  in  from  eight  to  ten  square-rigged  ves- 
sels, besides  smaller  craft. 

The  natives  of  this  district  are  of  the  Micmac 
tribe.  A  few  Malicites  come  thither  at  times, 
from  the  river  Saint  John  and  Madawaska.  Up- 
on the  banks  of  the  river  Ristigouche,  which  emp- 
ties itself  into  the  bay  of  Chaleurs,  and  about  eight 
leagues  fiom  its  mouth,  there  is  a  church,  and  an 
Indian  village.  At  Tracadigash,  and  at  the  set- 
tlement of  Bonaventure,  there  are  likewise  church- 
es, besides  some  chapels  in  the  smaller  settle- 
ments, where  the  ecclesiastical  functions  are  per- 
formed by  two,  and  sometimes  by  three  mission- 
aries. 

Agriculture  is  uncommonly  neglected,  and  in 
an  entire  state  of  infancy.  It  has  of  late  years 
been  i^omewhat  more  attended  to  than  formerly ; 
because  the  want  of  salt,  an  article  ever  sciurce  in 


N, 


-3^-- 


..■1<»-J»fo"- 


;^x. 


CUiPH   OF  SAINT  tAWREKCt.  53 

those  parts  in  lime  of  war,  and  other  causes,  gave 
to  the  liblicries  a  temporary  check,  and  obliged 
ihc  inhabitants  to  secure  the  means  of  !!>u'->i'»sunp; 
their  families,  by  tillage  and  husbandry.  But,  it 
is  probable  they  will,  as  they  have  ever  done,  re- 
sume the  hook  and  line,  as  soon  as  they  have  a 
j)rospcct  of  encouragement  in  that  their  favourite 
pursuit. 

The  roads  of  intercourse  between  the  adjoining- 
settlements  are  very  indiftcrent.  But,  wherever 
tliere  is  any  interruption,  by  extensive,  unsettled 
parts  of  the  coast,  the  traveller  must  have  recourse 
to  water  communication. 

Three  different  routes  are  pursued  by  those 
whom  business  obliges  to  travel  to  Quebec,  in 
the  winter  season.  One  of  these  is  by  the  coast 
of  the  Saint  Lav\Tence,  the  other  two  by  the  river 
Ristigouche.  In  adopting  the  second,  the  travel- 
ler ascends  that  river  about  twelve  leagues,  until 
he  reaches  the  Matapediach,  which  empties  itself 
therein,  and  whose  course  he  traces  upwards  to  a 
lake  of  the  same  name,  from  whence  it  derives  its 
source ;  hence  he  continues  in  the  same  direction, 
about  ten*  leagues,  along  an  Indian  path,  to  the  ri- 
ver Miiis,  flowing  into  the  Saint  Lawrence.  The 
third  route  is,  by  ascending  the  Ristigouche,  to 
near  its  source,  as  far  as  a  brook,  called  by  the 
natives  Wagancitz;  and  from  tl^ nee,  by  crossing 
the  land  to  the  Saint  John,  about  eight  leagues 
above  the  great  fulls  J  by  following  this  river,  uu- 


p,  ^ 


r^M'^-  ^|g#f» 


-*fc**5*j,'_X_^ 


.^— •<!lt^"i'X 


// 


'  <! 


54  GUtPH  OF  SAINT  LAWREVCE. 

til  its  junction  with  the  Madawaska,  c;nd  the  latter 
river  to  lake  Tamiscuata ;  and  by  proceeding 
along  that  lake  to  the  gratide  portage^  or  road 
ojjened  by  the  late  General  Haldimand,  through 
which,  after  walking  about  thirty  miles,  the  tra-. 
vejler  gains  the  river  Saint  Lawrence,  near  the 
riviere  des  Caps^  two  leagues  and  a  half  below  the 
parish  of  Camourasca.  The  first  of  these  routes 
is  the  longest ;  and  may  be  computed,  from  the 
middle  of  the  bay  of  Chaleurs,  at  about  one  hun- 
dred and  forty  leagues  to  Quebec.  The  two  lat- 
ter must  be  nearly  equal.  It  would  appear,  how- 
ever, from  the  courses,  that  the  road  by  Matape- 
diach,  must  be  somewhat  shorter  than  the  other* 
The  distance  of  either,  from  Carlisle,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  bay,  to  Quebec,  does  not  exceed  one 
hundred  and  twenty  leagues. 

The  only  object  in  this  part  of  the  country, 
which  may  be  considered  as  a  natural  curiosity, 
is  the  rock  called  Perce,  perforated  in  three  places 
in  the  form  of  arches,  through  the  central  and 
largest  of  which,  a  boat  with,  sails  set,  may  pass 
with  great  facility.  This  rock,  which,  at  a  dis- 
tance exhibits  the  appearance  of  an  aqueduct  in 
ruins,  rises  to  the  height  of  nearly  two  hundred 
feet.  Its  length,  which  is  at  present  four  hundred 
yards,  must  have  been  once  much  greater  ;  as  it 
has  evidently  been  wasted  by  the  sea,  and  by  tlic 
jfrequent  impulse  of  storms. 

'J'be  shell-fish  procured,  .iu  the  month  of  h\\ 


']^ 


-.<!5jj^.-«'«!..-*«v  r 


•**  J  #<H'  •*    ■■  •« ■ 


ttlLVn  OP  SAII^t  LAWREHCE.  55 

gust,  from  the  rivers,  and  from  their  mouths  near 
the  coast,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  bay  of  Chalcurs, 
are  so  highly  impregnated  with  a  poisonous  qua- 
lity,  as  to  occasion  almost  instantaneous  death  to 
those  who  eat  them.  The  cause  of  this  circum- 
stance remains  yet  to  be  ascertained.  Not  only 
in  the  district  of  Gasp6,  but  in  most  settlements 
on  the  Gulph  of  Saint  Lawrence,  similar  effects 
have  been  experienced.  The  period  of  the  year 
has  apparently  no  other  share  in  producing  them, 
than  by  the  reduction  of  the  quantity  of  waters 
which  generally  takes  place  in  summer.  The 
greater  the  diminution  of  waters,  the  stronger,  of 
course,  becomes  the  proportion  of  poisonous  mat- 
ter with  v^•hich  these  waters  are  endowed :  and 
this  being  imbibed,  especially  during  ebb  tides, 
by  the  shell-fish  they  are  thus  productive  of  con- 
sequences, fatal  to  those  who  use  them  as  an  arti- 
cle of  food. 

Not  only  the  Bird  isles,  already  described,  but 
die  island  of  Bona  venture,  and  Perce  rock,  abound 
in  summer  with  ganets,  which,  in  prodigious 
flocks,  arrive  early  in  May  from  the  southward. 
They  lay  and  hatch  their  eggs,  not  only  on  those 
islands,  but  on  various  parts  of  the  coast,  where 
adventurous  sportsmen,  often  with  considerable 
risque,  ascend  and  plunder  their  nests,  amid  the 
steep  and  threatening  cliffs.  These  birds,  at  that 
period  very  fierce,  will  soiuetJiues,  by  the  sevc^ 


i^ 


■  ^u**-*"*-* 


4  '. 


i*' 


56  RIVER  SAINT  L AVV-REI>'C1^», 

rity  of  thpir  biit,  directed  cliidiy  at  the  eyes  of 
the  despoiler,  force  him  to  retreat. 

The  bay  of  Gaspe  h  mpre  tliau  two  leagues  in 
depth :  and  its  coasts  are  inhal^ited  by  settlers  en- 
gaged ill  the  fisheries. 

The  Gulph  of  Saint  Lawrence  is  about  eighty 
leagues  in  length  :  and  when  the  winds  and  curr 
rents  are  favourable,  its  passage  does  not  usually 
exceed  twenty -four  hours.  The  Saint  Lawrence 
is  one  of  the  greatest,  most  noble,  and  beautiful 
rivers,  and,  at  the  same  time,  the  furdiest  naviga- 
ble for  vessels  of  a  large  size,  of  any  in  the  uni- 
verse. From  its  mouth  to  the  harbour  of  Quebec, 
the  distance  is  one  hundred  and  twenty  leagues : 
and  vessels  from  Europe  ascend  to  Montreal, 
which  is  sixty  leagues  higher  up  its  course. 

Cape  Rosiers,  at  a  small  distance  to  the  north- 
ward of  the  point  of  Gaspe,  is  properly  the  place 
which  limits  the  farthest  extent  of  this  gigantic 
river  :  and  it  is  from  thence  that  the  breadth  of 
its  mouth,  which  is  ninety  miles,  must  be  estima- 
ted. They  who  pretend  that  its  width  is  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles,  measure  it  apparently  from 
the  eastern  extremity  of  Gaspe.  The  mouth  of 
the  Saint  Lawrence  is  separated  into  two  chan- 
nels, by  the  island  of  Anticosti,  extending  from 
south  east  to  north  west,  about  a  hundred  and 
twenty  miles,  and  in  its  utmost  breadth  about 
thirty  miles.  The  north  channel  is  litde  frequent- 
ed, although  safe  and  of  great  depth.    It  is  much 


-■^Bft,*-.  •»■• 


■■«#  ■ 


■  *-  *  --••«.i»a:^ 


r*^^r^' 


mVER  SAINT  LAWRENCE.  57 

narrower  than  the  south  channel,  which  is  near 
sixteen  leagues  wide  at  its  entrance.  The  island 
is  of  little  value.  The  wood  which  grows  upon 
it  is  small :  the  soil  is  barren :  and  it  possesses 
not  a  single  harbour  where  a  vessel  may  with  safe- 
ty enter.  The  country  is  flat  towards  the  coasts, 
rising  a  little  in  the  centre,  but  no  w  here  into  hills. 
Flat  rocks  extend  at  each  extremity,  to  a  consi- 
derable distance  from  the  shores,  rendering  the 
approach  hazardous.  A  few  savages  sometimes 
winter  there,  for  the  purpose  of  the  chace.  On 
passing  this  island,  the  laud  becomes  visible  on 
both  sides  of  the  river. 

The  mountains  of  Notre  Dame  and  Mont 
Louis,  behind  which  the  former  are  pla'".ed,are  part 
of  a  chiiin  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  the  vallies 
between  which  are  occasionally  frequented  by  sa- 
vages. The  environs  of  Mont  Louis  aflford  lands 
fit  for  cultivation :  and  some  families  are  there 
settled.  On  the  northern  and  opposite  coast  of 
the  river,  the  bayof  seven  islands  is  placed,  \vhere 
a  fleet  under  the  command  of  Admiral  Walker 
was,  in  1711,  lost  on  an  expedition  against  Que- 
bec. An  eminence,  named  La  pointede  Mont  Pe- 
lee^  is  situated  seventeen  leagues  to  the  south  west 
©f  these  islands.  Along  the  extent  of  the  north 
coast,  the  river  Moisiey  and  several  other  conside- 
rable streams,  roll  down  to  the  Saint  Lawrence, 
the  u  ibute  of  their  waters. 

Cape  Chiittc,  on  the  south  shore,   exhibits  a 


u 


^.. 


It 


k 


\i 


)'\ 


f  < 


58  RIVER  SAIN'T   LAWRENCE. 

bold  api>c  iraiicc :  between  this  and  a  poiat  on 
the  north  coast,  which  terminates  the  biild  moun- 
tains, the  channel  ol'  the  river  becxjmea  considera- 
bly contracted.      • 

Two  conical  elevations,  upon  a  mountain,  call- 
ed  Les  Mammeii^s  de  Afatane^  about  two  leagues 
distant  from  the  const,  present  themselves  to  >aew. 
No  country  can  exhibit  a  more  wild  aspect  than 
that  which  here  extends  on  either  side  the  river. 
Stunted  trees,  rocks,  and  sand,  compose  the  in- 
hospitable  and  desolate  territory,  which  cannot 
boast  of  an  acre  of  soil  capable  of  yielding  any 
useful  production.  Birds  and  wiKl  animals  tii'e, 
indeed,  here  to  be  found.  But  the  chace  is  prac- 
ticable only  to  savages.  -.     - 

The  slwal  of  Maniagoagan  advances  froin  the 
north  shore,  upwards  of  two  leagues  into  the  ri. 
ver.  It  receives  its  appellation  from  a  stream 
which  has  its  source  in  the  territory  of  Labrador, 
and  herc  discliarges  itself  into  the  Saint  I^awrencc. 
This  considerable  body  of  water  is  also  called  the 
Black-river.  To\\ard3  the  cast  there  is  a  bav  oi 
the  same  niune  as  the  shoal,  and  on  the  west  tit 
bay  of  Outardes. 

Tiie  small  island  of  Saint  Burnaby  is  placed 
near  the  south  shore,  opposite  to  an  inconside- 
rable river,  upon  the  banks  of  which  is  a  settle- 
ment called  Rimouski.  From  Mont  Louis  to 
this  itiland,  the  dist.ince  is  forty  Ictigues,  through, 
©ut  wliich,  there  is  neither  on  the  south  or  -^l'' 


\ 


■  "'ai**-.  ♦»" 


—-■.•#. 


'  •  -  *  -««*'«-%-f'4„     t 


f»-*"»V,.r*Sr:"*'' 


lilVE*  SAINT  LAWRENCE.  ^^ 

ifOTth  shore  any  station  which  can  hav^  the  merit 
of  being  termed  a  harbour  ;  and  some  anehorii^ 
places  onJy  present  tliemselves.  These  are  prin- 
cipally on  the  north  shore  ;  and  are  distinguislicd 
by  the  names  of  port  La  Croix,  the  river  ^inl. 
Marguerite,  the  cove  of  Trinity,  the  port  of  Saint 
Nicholas,  £ind  the  bay  of  Maniagoagaai,  already 
mentioned.  In  proceeding  further  up  Cape  Ori- 
ginal a  promontory  of  a  rugged  aixl  singular  form, 
lUtracts  the  eye ;  in  whose  vicinity  is  the  isle  of 
Bique,  well  known  to  navigators  for  its  excellent 
harbour,  and  as  being  the  pliMse  at  which  pilots 
are  landed  from  vessels  proceeding  down  the  river. 
To  the  southward  of  the  cape,  the  stream  of  Trois 
Pistoles  empties  itself  into  the  Saint  Lawrence ; 
and  the  isle  of  Basque  lies  opposite  to  its  mouth. 
A  considerable  number  of  rivers  lk>wing 
through  long  channels  from  the  northwaid,  pour 
their  waters  into  the  Saint  Lawrence.  The  chief 
of  these  is  the  Saguenay ,  drawing  its  source  from 
lake  Saint  John,  and  running  to  the  eastward 
through  a  mountainous  and  barren  region.  The 
lake  is  about  thirty  leagues  in  circuit :  and  its 
borders,  as  well  as  the  surrounding  country,  are 
covered  with  pine  trees  of  a  small  growth.  The 
Saguenay,  wliich  sweeps  along  a  prodigious  body 
of  waters,  is  interrupted  in  its  course  by  abrupt 
j  precipices,  over  which  it  dashes  its  foaming  cur- 
rent ;  and,  being  bounded  by  banks  of  great  ele- 
vation, is  remarkable  lor  the  depth  iuid  impetuosi- 


V      > 


' !» r 


./ 


60  KIVER    SACUENA?. 

ty  of  its  flood,  long  before  it  mingles  with  the 
great  river.  The  fall,  which  is  about  fifty  feet  in 
altitude,  is  ninety  miles  distant  from  the  mouth  of 
the  river;  and  is  chiefly  striking,  for  the  immense 
sheet  of  water,  which  is  perpetually  broken  in  its 
rugged  course,  and  assumes  a  resplendent  white- 
ness. When  viewed  from  below,  the  scene  \v, 
stupendous  and  terrific.  The  incessant  and  deaf- 
ening roar  of  the  rolling  torrents  of  foam,  and  the 
irresistible  violence  and  fury  with  which  the  river 
hastens  down  its  descent,  tend  to  produce  on  the 
mind  of  the  spectator  an  impression  awfull)^ 
grand.  The  picturesque  and  rudely  wild  forms 
of  the  lofty  banks,  exhibit  a  gloomy  contrast  to 
the  lively  splendour  of  the  cataract. 

The  impetuous  torrent  of  the  Sanguenay ,  when 
the  tide  is  low,  is  sensibly  felt  in  the  Saint  Law- 
rence,  which,  for  a  distance  of  many  miles,  is 
obliged  to  yield  to  its  impulse ;  and  \  essels  ap- 
parently going  their  course,  have  thereby  beeu 
carried  sidelong  in  a  different  direction.       , 

Besides  the  fall  now  described,  this  river  is 
broken  into  several  rapids  or  cataracts  of  lesser 
height.  In  many  places  the  banks  are  rugged  and  | 
steep ;  and  at  intervals,  consist  of  almost  perpen- 
dicular cliffs  of  astonishing  elevation,  some  rising  I 
to  a  thousand,  and  some  to  six  or  seven  hundred 
feet.  The  length  of  the  course  of  this  river  is  a 
hundred  and  fifty  miles.  Its  breadth  is  generally 
near  three  miles,  except  near  its  mouth,  where  it 


RIVER    SACUEiV  AY.  61 

eontracts  to  one-third  of  that  extent.  An  attempt 
has  been  made  in  the  centre  of  its  month,  to  sound 
the  depth  with  five  hundred  fathoms  of  line :  but 
no  bottom  was  found.  A  mile  and  an  half  higher 
up  from  thence,  the  depth  has  been  ascertaiind  at 
one  hundred  and  thirty-eight  fathoms  :  and  sixly 
miles  further,  in  ascending  the  courbc  of  the  ri- 
ver, the  depth  is  near  ^ixty  fathoms. 

Notwithstanding  its  immense  breadth,  and  the 
stupendous  elevation  of  its  rocky  shvores,  the 
coursaof  this  river  is  rendered  extremely  crook- 
ed, by  points  of  tend  which  appear  to  interlock 
each  other;  and  thus  prolong  its  navigation. 
The  tide  ascends  to  the  peninsula  of  Chicoutami, 
and,  intercepted  in  its  retreat,  by  these  frequent 
promontories,  is  much  later  in  its  ebb,  than  that 
of  the  Saint  Lawrence.  The  level  of  the  former 
river,  becomes  thus,  many  feet  higher  than  that 
of  the  latter,  into  whose  bosom  it  rushes,  with  the 
"boundless  impetuosity  already  remarked. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  Sague- 
nay,  is  the  harbour  of  Tadoussac,  capable  of  af- 
fording shelter  and  anchorage,  for  a  number  of 
vessels  of  a  large  size.  Previous  to  the  establish- 
ment of  a  colony  in  Canada,  this  place  was  fre- 
quented, for  the  purpose  of  carrying  on  the  fur 
trade.  Several  small  settlements  belonging  to  go- 
vernment, are  placed  along  the  northern  coast  of 
the  Saint  Lawrence.  These  are  usually  known 
by  the  appellation  of  the  King's  Posts:  and  arc 

F 


'<^ 


*  \i 


■  w 


}1  I 


'    ,  f 


&2  lUVKR     SAGUExVAY. 

let,  for  a  term  of  years,  to  commercial  people, 
for  the  design  of  conducting  a  traffic  for  peltry 
with  the  savages,  and  also  for  the  salmon,  whale, 
seal,  and  porpus  fisheries.  Their  several  names 
are,  Tadoussac,  Chicoutami,  seventy -five  miles 
Tip  the  Saguenay  ;  a  post  on  Lake  Saint  John, 
Ashuabmanchuan,  Mistashni,  les  Isles  de  Jcre- 
mie  on  the  sea.  Seven  Islands,  and  Point  De 
Monts.  At  these  various  situations,  previous  to 
the  year  1802,  about  eighty  Canadians  were 
employed  in  hunting,  and  purchasing  furs  from 
the  Indians  in  winter,  and  dur&ig  summer,  in  the 
salmon  fisher}^  for  which  the  river  Moisie,  eigh- 
teen miles  below  Seven  Inlands,  affords  a  most 
productive  field. 

Chicoutami  is  the  only  situation  on  the  Sague- 
nay, where  the  soil  is  fertile,  and  abounds  with 
timber  of  an  excellent  growth.  It  has  been  found 
by  experiment,  that  grain  will  ripen  much  sooner 
there  than  at  Quebec,  although  placed  considera- 
bly to  the  northward  of  that  city.  The  vicinitj  of 
the  sea,  to  the  former,  disarms  the  winter  of  a  por- 
tion of  its  severity,  and  produces  an  earlier  spring. 

The  natives  in  possession  of  the  tract  of  coim- 
try  around  Lake  Saint  John,  and  on  the  borders 
of  the  Saguenay,  are  named  Mountaineers,  and 
are  descended  from  the  Algonquins.  They  are 
neither  so  tall,  nor  so  well  formed,  as  the  siivages 
that  range  throughout  the  north-west  country ; 
and  are  also  strangers  to  that  sanguinary  Icrocity, 


KIVER    SACUENAY.  G.i 

by  which  many  of  the  Indian  tribes  arc  characte- 
rized They  are  remarkable  for  tlic  mildness  i.nd 
gentleness  of  their  manners;  and  are  never  knc\\  n 
to  use  an  oRensive  weapon  against  each  other,  or 
to  kill  or  wound,  any  person  whatever.  Nor  can 
the  effects  of  spirituous  liquors,  so  baneful  to  other 
natives,  excite  them  to  cruelty,  or  vindictive  pas- 
sion. Their  behaviour  is  uniformly  orderly  and 
decent.  Tlicir  mode  of  dress  is  the  same  as  that 
which  now  prevails,  among  the  other  savages  v.  ho 
have  intercourse  with  Europeans :  and  the  siuffs, 
and  silks,  for  which  they  exchange  their  furs,  arc 
often  rich  and  costly. 

Their  whole  number  is  about  thirteen  luin- 
dred ;  nearly  one  half  being  converted  to  the 
Christian  faith,  and  the  other  half  being  Pagans, 
A  missionary  sent  from  Quebec,  resides  among 
them :  and  chapels,  v;here  divine  service  is  per- 
formed, are  erected  at  the  principal  posts.  Re- 
peated efforts,  and  much  persuasion  have  been 
used,  to  prevail  on  these  savages  to  cultivate  tho 
lands,  and  to  plant  Indian  corn,  or  potatoe;-.. 
They  have  not,  however,  been  able  to  overcome 
their  propensity  to  indolence,  or  tiieir  utter  aver- 
sion  and  abhorrence  to  that  species  of  labour. 
They  appeared  to  relish  these  articles  of  food, 
^vhen  offered ;  and  would  eat  tlicm  with  avidity, 
if  accompanied  with  a  little  grease.  Yet,  even 
the  incitement  of  reward,  superadded  to  the  pros^ 
pect  of  a  constant  and  wholesome  supply  of  nou- 


0 


>'J 


r-  I 


j, 

I 


*) 


'1 


4f    4; 


#    ' 


rt'  ^ 


64         \         RIVER    SAINT  LAWRENCE. 

rishment,  failed  in  producing  any  inclination  Ibi 
industry. 

Although,  like  other  tribes  in  a  barbarous  state, 
each  individual  is  solely  dependent,  for  support 
and  defence,  on  the  strength  of  his  own  arm,  and 
the  resolution  of  his  mind  ;  they  are,  notwithstand- 
ing, so  pusillanimous,  that  at  the  appearance  of  an 
enemy,  however  small  in  numbers,  they  betake 
themselves  to  flight,  and  retire  for  safety  into  the 
woods. 

The  furs  procured  in  this  quarter,  arc,  in  ge- 
neral, of  a  superior  quality  :  and  great  attention 
is  besto\;'ed  b}'  the  hunters,  in  scraping  and  clean- 
ing the  parchments.  These  posts,  which  pro^ 
duced  to  government  a  rent  of  no  more  than 
four  hundred  pounds  a  year,  have  lately  been  let, 
on  a  lease  of  thirty  years,  to  the  North-west  Com- 
pany, a  society  of  merchants  at  Montreal,  for  the 
yearly  rent  of  one  thousand  and  twenty-five 
pounds. 

Near  the  island  of  Bfque,  the  settlements  on 
the  south  coast  of  the  Saint  Lawrence  may  be 
said  to  commence.  Green  Island,  about  seven 
leagues  higher  in  ascending  the  river,  exhibits  a 
pleasing  appearance ;  and  affords  luxuriant  pas- 
turage for  a  number  of  cattle.  Some  of  the  low 
grounds  on  the  island,  and  on  the  continental 
shore,  being  frequently,  during  high  tides,  over- 
flowed by  the  salt  water,  are  clothed  with  herb- 
age.    The  river  in  tliis  part,  abounding  in  shoalSj 


ni.---^-' 


RIVER  SAINT   LAWRENCE.  65 

tlicrc  Is  a  channel,  or  traverse  on  the  north  side 
of  Green  Island,  where,  at  low  tide,  the  current 
descends  with  rapidity,  and  through  which  \cs- 
scls  hold  their  course.  The  coast  on  the  south 
shore,  from  hence,  upwards,  assumes  a  flat  ap- 
pearance, the  hills  rising  at  some  distance  from 
the  river.  The  north  coast,  although  of  no  great 
elevation,  is  abrupt,  rocky  and  sterile,  for  an  ex- 
tent of  several  leagues  :  and  the  islands  towards 
that  side,  exhibit  a  like  desolate  character. 

Between  Point  a  /'  Aigle^  a  mountainous  pro- 
montory on  the  north  coast,  and  a  congeries  of 
'  other  eminences  called  tes  Ehoidements,  there  is 
a  considerable  settlement  situated  at  the  bottom 
of  an  inlet,  which  recedes  about  three  miles  from 
the  great  river;  and  is  called  Mal-bay.  Here 
the  land  is  cultivated  and  inhabited  for  an  extent 
of  six  miles,  in  a  rich  and  romantic  valley,  through 
which  a  rjver,  abounding  in  salmon  and  trout, 
winds  its  course  into  the  bay.  The  soil  which 
consists  of  a  black  mould  upon  sand,  is  fertile  : 
and  the  inhabitants,  whose  communication  with 
other  settled  parts  of  the  country  is  not  frequent, 
possess,  within  their  own  limits,  an  abundance  of 
the  necessaries  of  life. 

Cattle,  sheep,  some  horses,  wheat,  oats,  and 
boards,  are  exported  from  hence  to  Quebec.  This 
bay  is  frequented  by  porpuses  of  a  milk-white 
colour,  which  in  some  seasons  yield  a  handsome 
profit,  to  those  concerned  in  the  fisheries.  Whales 

v2 


I 


T^J^s- 


11  I,. 


i  I ; 


1 1 


66  RIVER   SAINT  Lv\  WHENCE. 

seldom  ascend   higdci  thuii   the   mouth  of  the 
SiU'itcivav. 

I'hc  cntrunce  to  lliis  bay,  presents  to  the  eye,  a 
landhcape  at  once  singularly  romantic  and  beauti- 
ful;  being  terminated  by  mountains,  uhosc  va- 
ried and  elevated  summits,  sharpen  into  cones  of 
different  magnitudes. 

In  ascending  the  Saint  Lawrence,  the  country 
on  cither  side  affords  pleasure  and  amusement  to 
the  traveller,  by  the  exhibition  of  a  profusion  of 
grand  objects.  Amid  the  combination  of  islands, 
promontories,  and  hills  clothed  v\  ith  forests,  some 
scenes  more  strikingly  than  others,  attract  the  at- 
tcntion.  On  the  north  side,  after  passing  Mal- 
bay,  a  bold  and  interesting  scene  is  formed,  by 
huge  masses  of  rock,  interspersed  with  shrubs, 
and  by  the  east  side  of  the  hills,  called  ies  E- 
boulemcntSj  which,  with  majestic  elevation,  pro- 
ject into  the  river.  The  settlement  of  Camou- 
rasca,  \\  ith  the  mountains  beyond  it,  forms  the 
opposite  coast. 

The  island  of  Coudres,  situated  at  the  distance 
of  about  a  league  from  the  north  shore,  rises  gra- 
dually from  the  water,  except  in  a  few  places, 
where  its  borders,  although  of  no  great  height, 
are  almost  perpendicular,  and  covered  with  small 
trees.  It  contains  one  parish,  and  about  thirty 
families,  each  of  which  derives  its  support  from  its 
own  lands.  The  extent  of  this  island,  is  about 
seven  miles  in  length,  and  about  three  in  extreme 


'r-^SS^T.^' 


RIVER   SATNT   LAWRENCE.  67 

breadth.  Its  name  i^'ust  from  tht  quantity  of 
hi.zcl-trecs,  uhicli  Jucqiics  Cartitr,  in  hiu  voyage 
to  Quebec,  foind  g;i-ov\ing  in  its  woods. 

The  river,  on  tl\c  south  side  ol'  rlie  island,  is  of 
no  great  depth  ;  and  fonns  a  v\  Inding  channel  of 
about  two  miles  in  width,  deeper  than  any  other 
part  of  its  bed  in  this  situation,  and  known  by 
the  appellation  of  the  Traverse.  When  the  wind 
is  unfavourable,  die  navigation  is  here  difficult : 
and  the  breadth  of  the  river  from  Coudies  to  the 
south  shore,  being  fourteen  miles,  great  attention 
is  necessary,  in  order  to  steer  u  ithin  the  Traverse  ; 
for,  if  it  be  overshot  by  a  large  vessel,  she  w  ill 
inevitably  be  set  aground.  But,  as  tne  bottom 
consists  of  mud,  or  siuid,  damage  is,  in  that  event, 
seldom  sustained,  any  further  than  the  delay  in 
waiting  for  a  high  tide. 

The  channel  between  Coudrcs  and  the  north 
shore,  is  upwards  of  a  league  in  breadth,  and  of 
considerable  depth.  But  as  the  anchorage  there 
is  by  no  means  good,  the  bottom  being  rocky,  a 
vessel  in  cndeavouru>g  to  pass  through  it,  would 
not  be  in  full  security,  should  the  wind  and  tide 
cease  to  operate  in  her  favour.  For  this  reason, 
tlie  southern  passage  is  preferred  by  pilots. 

The  Eboulements,  already  noticed,  consist  of 
a  small  chain  of  mountains,  suddenly  rising  from 
the  water ;  and,  towards  the  east,  bounding  the 
entrance  into  Saint  Paul's  bay.  On  their  sides, 
arc  several  cultivated  spots :  and  the  settiemeuts 


V 


ui 


!  •  I 


68  RIVER  SAINT  LAWRENCE. 

appear  one  above  another,  at  difl'erent  stages  ot 
height.  The  houses,  corn-fields,  and  woods, 
irregularly  scattered  over  the  brow  of  the  hills, 
produce  an  effect,  luxuriant  and  novel. 

Saint  Paul's  bay  is  formed  by  mountains, 
which,  on  either  side,  recede  from  the  coast  of  the 
river,  towards  the  north,  inclosing  a  valley  of  nine 
miles  in  extent,  through  which,  two  small  rivers 
pursue  their  serpentine  courses.  The  mountains 
are  heaped  upon  each  other :  and  their  rugged 
and  pointed  summits,  boldly  terminate  the  view. 
The  valley  is  well  cultivated,  and  thickly  inha- 
bited. A  great  proportion  of  the  soil  is  rocky 
and  uneven :  and  some  spots,  on  the  sides  of 
the  hills,  are  so  precipitous,  that  they  are  unfit 
for  the  purpose  of  pasturage.  The  inhabitants, 
however,  cultivate  those  spots  by  manual  labour ; 
and  sow  them  with  wheat  or  oats.  The  dwell- 
ing-house's are,  in  general  large;  are  built  of 
stone ;  and  show  an  external  neatness,  which  is, 
indeed,  conimon  to  almost  the  whole  of  the  ha- 
bitations of  the  peasantry  in  Canada,  the  roofs  and 
walls  being  washed  with  lime. 

A  number  of  rivulets,  rolling  down  the  sides 
of  declivities,  through  gullies  and  ravines  formed 
by  their  waters,  afford  situations  convenient  lor 
saw-mills,  several  of  which  are  here  erected :  and 
a  considerable  quantity  of  lumber*  is  exported 

*  Lumber,  in  a  commerciii^  sense,  impoft«  boards,  plankj  ov 
sqiiai'cd  tuuber. 


irom  henc 

supplies  ^ 

comprehei 

two  hundr 

minary  of 

•ver  the  la 

been  peopl 

The  fu] 

scene  of  w 

river  haste 

and  interru 

rear  aloft  tl 

is  abrujjtly 

The  rocks, 

»ity,  are  of 

with  grains 

which  is  soi 

This  part 

is  subject  tc 

ter  season,  ^ 

as  to  threate 

serious  accii 

curred;  aid 

pels  the  inhc 

ring  the  reit^ 

The  brea( 

bay  to  Came 

twenty  miles 

situated  aboi 

tlement.     B< 


il 


Lagcs  ot" 
woods, 
le  hills, 

Lintains, 
it  of  the 
'  of  nine 
ill  rivers 
3untains 

rugged 
[le  view. 
Ay  inha- 
is  rocky 
sides  of 
are  unfit 
labitants, 
I  labour ; 
e  dwell- 

built  of 
vhich  iS| 

the  ha- 

oofs  and 

he  sides 
s  formed 
lient  lor 
ted:  and 
exported 

,  plank,  ov 


RIVER  SAINT  LAWRENCE.  69 

i'rom  hence,  every  summer.  This  settlement  also 
supplies  grain,  and  cattle,  for  exportation ;  and 
comprehends,  throughout  its  whole  extent,  about 
two  hundred  houses,  and  a  neat  church.  The  se- 
minary of  Quebec  possesses  the  seignorial  right 
•ver  the  lands  of  this  establishment,  which  has 
been  peopled  upwards  of  a  hundred  and  ten  years. 

The  further  extremity  of  the  valley  affords  a 
scene  of  wild  and  picturesque  beauty.  A  small 
river  hastens,  over  a  stony  channel,  its  broken 
and  interrupted  waves.  Acclivities  on  each  side 
rear  aloft  their  pointed  summits  :  and  the  sight 
is  abruptly  bounded  by  a  chain  of  elevated  hills. 
The  rocks,  composing  the  mountains  in  this  vici- 
nity, are  of  a  hard,  grey  contexture,  intermixed 
with  grains  of  shining,  garnet-coloured  quartz, 
which  is  sometimes  united  in  entire  stripes. 

This  part  of  the  country,  as  well  as  Mal-bay, 
is  subject  to  earthquakes,  particularly  in  tJie  win- 
ter season,  when  they  are  sometimes  so  alarming, 
as  to  threaten  destruction  to  the  buildings.  No 
serious  accident  has,  however,  of  late  years  oc^. 
curred ;  although  apprehension  frequently  com- 
pels the  inhabitants  to  forsake  their  dwellings  du- 
ring the  reiteration  of  the  shocks. 

The  breadth  of  the  Saint  Lawrence  from  Mal- 
bay  to  Camourasca  on  the  south  shore,  is  about 
twenty  miles  :  and  a  cluster  of  rocky  islands  is 
situated  about  a  league  from  the  coast  of  ihi;t  set- 
tlement.    Betwi-en  these  ibiantls  and  the  shore, 


i_,i 


r«:^- 


U  I  ' 


i''l 

\ll^ 


ii 


1^0  RIVER  SAINT   LAWRENCE. 

the  inhabitants  place,  every  spring,  a  tience,  form^ 
ed  of  the  straight  and  slender  boughs  of  trees, 
firmly  stuck  into  the  sandy  bottom,  at  about  two 
feet  distance  from  each  other.  When  the  tide 
ascends,  the  white  porpuses,  with  which  the  ri- 
ver  abounds,  enters  those  snares  :  and  the  vio~ 
lence  of  the  current,  causing  a  tremulous  motion. 
in  the  branches,  they  are  afraid  to  repass  the  renccs. 
When  the  tide  has  retired,  they  aire  left  upon  the 
dry  beach. 

These  fishes,  which  are  of  a  snoAvy  whiteness, 
are  to  be  seen  playing,  in  great  numbers,  near  the 
surface  of  the  water,  from  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
as  high  up  as  the  island  of  Orleans,  and  frequent- 
ly in  the  basin  of  Quebec.  They  often  follow,  in 
multitudes,  vessels  sailing  in  the  river :  and  many 
of  them  are  twelve,  or  even  fifteen  feet  in  length. 
One  of  the  smallest  will  yield  upwards  of  a  ban  cl 
of  oil.  The  fisheries  of  seals  and  sea-cows,  urc 
likewise  profitable. 

The  vicinity  of  Camourasca  presents  a  scene, 
wild  and  romantic,  being  varied  by  islands,  b} 
level  lands,  and  by  rocky  acclivities.  The  sul- 
phureous springs  found  here,  and  the  imn\cnsc 
masses  of  broken  rock,  which  appear  to  have  been 
thrown  to<2:ethcr  bv  some  violent  and  uncommon 
effort  of  nature,  afibrd  grounds  for  supposing 
that  this  part  of  the  country  lias  undergone  ma- 
terial changes. 

From  this  settlement,  in  ascending  the  coast  o^ ' 


the  great  ri 

inij(')itetl ; 

depth  of  * 

lands  are  le 

streams;  ai 

and  the  Sai 

falls  into  th 

ner,  over  a 

twenty.five 

produced  ir 

these  rivers 

any  of  these 

of  the  great 

The  church 

thickly  togei 

with  the  fon 

of  the  coun 

being  comp 

abruptly  froi 

the  west,  by 

lar  altitude  is 

Paul's  bay  a 

mountains,  s 

The  centn 

of  small  islan 

Ip'irtly  clcarec 

pi}  good  pas 

ol  hay.     On 

rich  and   iiit( 

composed  by 


\ 


RIVER   SAINT  LAWRENCE.  71 

the  great  river,  thccountrj^  is  fertile,  and  thickly 
inhit^itctl ;  being,  in  some  places,  settled  to  tnc 
depth  of  several  concessions.  The  cultivated 
lands  are  level,  and  watered  by  a  variety  of  fine 
streams;  among  which  the  Oueiic,  the  Saint  Ann, 
and  the  Saint  Thomas,  are  the  chief  The  latter 
falls  into  the  Saint  Lawrence  in  a  beautiful  man- 
ner, over  a  perpendicular  rock,  whose  altitude  is 
twenty-five  feet»  Great  quantities  of  grain  are 
produced  in  the  parishes  of  the  same  names  as 
these  rivers :  and  the  soil  surpasses  in  fertility, 
any  of  the  settlements  around  Quebec.  The  cousts 
of  the  great  river  afford  excellent  meadow  lands. 
The  churches,  and  settlements  v^  hich  are  placed 
thickly  together,  produce  an  agreeable  contrast, 
with  the  forests  and  distant  mountains.  The  iuce 
of  the  country  on  the  north  is  elevated  and  bold, 
being  composed  of  a  succession  of  hills,  risiiig 
abruptly  from  the  water,  and  termmating  tov^'ards 
the  west,  by  cape  Tourment,  whose  perpendicu- 
lar altitude  is  two  thousand  feet.  Between  Saint 
Paul's  bay  and  that  cape,  at  the  basis  of  one  of  the 
mountains,  stands  the  parish  of  la  Pitite  Ihviere. 
The  centre  of  the  river  is  diversified  by  clusters 
I  of  small  islands,  some  of  which  are  settled,  and 
partly  cleared  of  their  native  woods.  They  sup- 
ply good  pasturage  for  cattle,  and  great  quantities 
ol  hay.  On  approaching  the  island  of  Orleans,  a 
rich  and  interesting  view  displays  itself.  It  is 
composed  by  the  eastern  extremity  of  tliut  island, 


! 


'y 


i,r 


'  .  <( 


. 


72  RIVER   JAINT  LAWRENCE, 

clothed  with  trees,  the  Isle  de  Madame^  the  Cape, 
and  the  mountains  which  recede  Irom  it  towards 
the  west  and  north,  with  the  cultivated  meadows 
which  spread  themselves  under  its  rocky  basis. 
When  the  atmosphere  is  varied  by  clouds,  which 
frequently  envelope  the  summits  of  those  moun- 
tains, and  which,  by  suddenly  bursting  open, 
present  them  partially  to  the  eye,  the  spectator 
becomes  impressed  with  the  sublimity  and  gran- 
deur of  the  scene. 

Cape  Tourment  is  three  hundred  and  thirty 
miles  distant  from  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Alter 
passing  the  island  of  Coudres,  the  water  assumes 
a  whitish  hue,  and  is  brackish  to  the  taste,  the 
mixture  of  salt  continuing  to  diminish,  until  the 
tide  reaches  the  lower  extremity  of  Orleans,  where 
it  becomes  perfectly  fresh. 

The  latter  island,  rises  in  gradation,  from  its 
steep  banks  on  the  coast,  towards  its  centre,  pre- 
senting a  pleasing  and  fertile  appearance.  Beyond 
it,  the  mountains  of  the  north  coast  exalt  their 
towering  summits.  Its  circumference  is  about 
forty-eight  miles.  It  was,  in  1676,  erected  into 
an  Earldom,  under  the  title  of  Saint  Laurent, 
which  has  long  been  extinct.  Of  the  two  channels  | 
formed  by  this  island,  that  of  the  south,  possess- 
ing much  greater  depth  and  breadth,  is  the  course  I 
through  which  all  vessels  of  burden  are  navigated. 
About  the  center  of  this  island  is  an  anchoring 
ground,  called  Patrick's  hole,  protected  by  loity 


banks,  a 

a  great  n  I 

is  navigu 

appears  t 

Wild  ^ 

which  in( 

there,  to 

Bacchus. 

here  prod 

orchards 

the  lo^^ei 

teen  mile 

ty,  a  basi 

miles,  is 

number  o 

interestin 

Montmoi 

suddenly 

vi,  and  t 

the  city  c 

channel  c 

town  is  t( 

tlemcnt  c 

intervene 

bee;  anc 

from  the 

gradually 

port,  fro 

comes  Ici 

north  int( 


\hi 


>    I 


KIVEU   SAINT  LAWRENCE?.  73 

banks,  and  aflRjrding  shelter,  when  necessary,  for 
a  great  number  of  ships.  The  channel  on  the  north, 
is  navigable  for  sloops  and  schooners  only  ;  and 
appears  to  be  gradually  diminishing  in  depth. 

Wild  vines  are  found  in  the  woods  of  Orleans, 
which  induced  Jacques  Carticr,  on  his  first  landing- 
there,  to  bestow  on  it  the  appellation  of  the  Isle  dc 
Bacchus,  Considerable  quantities  of  grain  iin 
here  produced ;  and  in  several  situittions,  there  arc 
orchards  affording  apples  of  a  good  quality.  At 
the  \o\YtT  extremity  of  the  island,  the  river  is  six- 
teen miles  in  breadth  :  and  at  the  upper  extremi- 
ty, a  basin  extending  in  every  direction,  about  si.. 
miles,  is  formed.  At  the  approach  to  this  basin,  a 
number  of  objects  combine  to  produce  a  lively  and 
interesting  prospect.  The  foaming  clouds  of  the 
Montmorenci,  pouring  over  a  gloomy  precipice, 
suddenly  open  on  the  eye .  The  rocks  of  Point  Le- 
vi, and  the  elevated  promontory,  on  whose  sides 
the  city  of  Quebec  is  placed,  seem  to  bound  the 
channel  of  the  great  river.  The  north  side  of  the 
town  is  terminated  by  the  Saint  Charles.  The  set- 
tlement of  Beauport,  in  extent  about  seven  miles, 
intervenes  between  the  Montmorenci  and  Que- 
bec; and  is  situated  on  a  declivity,  extending 
from  the  hills  to  the  Saint  Lawrence,  whose  banks 
gradually  slope  towards  the  little  river  of  Beau- 
port,  from  whose  western  borders  the  land  be- 
comes level.  A  chain  of  mountains  towards  the 
north  intercepts  the  view. 

G 


;  «T«"ijL?|,' "' 


Xw«»~--' 


•--._') 


T4 


^UEBEt^ 


CHAPTER  IV. 

^^lebee'-^dtscription  of  that  city — romantic  situation'^ 
natural  streJi^th-^relighus  orders^  and  their  ea^a' 
blishments—— ship-building— —ititerestin^  scene  dis' 
played  from  Point  Levi— extensive  and  grand  land- 
scape presented  from  the  heights  to  the  westward 
of  the  garrison— River  Montmorenci — natural  steps 
'—-sublime  xvaterfall—^basin^  and  its  strata — descrip' 
tion  of  the  Fall  as  seen  from  the  coast  of  the  ^aint 
Lazvrence, 

FROM  the  period  at  which  Jacques  Cartier 
'visited  and  explored  the  river  Saint  Lawrence, 
initil  the  year  1603,  no  serious  efforts  were  niade 
by  Europeans  for  die  formation  of  a  settlement  in 
Canada.  A  space  of  nearly  a  century  was  suffer- 
ed to  elapse,  without  any  otlier  advantage  having 
been  derived  from  the  discovery  of  this  part  of 
tlie  continent  of  North  America,  than  that  of  the 
precarious  profits  which  accrued  to  some  adven- 
turers,  by  carrying  on  widi  the  native  inhabitants, 
\\  ho  frequented  the  coasts  of  the  great  river,  au 
inconsiderable  traffic  in  peltry. 

At  lengdi,  in  the  sera  mentioned  above,  Samuel 
dc  Champlain,  a  nir.n  of  enterprize  and  talent,  ac- 
tuated by  liberal  sentiments,  and  by  patriotic, 
more  than  b\  interested  vicnas,  after  haviiij^- hur- 
1  c>  ed  the  borders  ui  the  nver,  lor  the  choice  of  a 


I 


"*t 


X. 


.^.Lii^':,-^^'-"  -^"'f'Le. 


ti^  .,  *  -;n^.'*ii*'.^JM" "' 


sMgg^'^^, 


tir  en* a' 
ene  dtS' 
nd  land- 
>estward 
ral  ateps 
•descrip' 
he  iaint 


Cartier 
wrence, 
re  niade 
ment  in 
s  suffcr- 
;  having 

part  of 
it  of  the 
;  adven- 
ibitants, 


iver,  an 


Siiiniiel 
cnt,  ac- 
atriotic, 
in<^'  hur- 
^ict  of  a 


<^I7EBEC.  i3 

situation  presenting  the  greatest  conveniences  for 
a  settlement,  gave  the  preference  to  an  elevated 
promontory,  between  the  Saint  Lawrence  and  the 
small  river  Saint  Charles.  It  is  asserted,  that  some 
of  his  attendants,  having  pronounced  at  first  view 
of  this  point  of  land,  the  words  *'  Quel  bee  !" 
Champlain  bestowed  that  name  on  his  projected 
town.  After  erecting  some  huts  for  the  shelter 
of  his  people,  he  began  to  clear  the  environs,  from 
the  woods  with  which  they  were  covered. 

The  spot  which  Champlain  designed  as  a  foun- 
dation of  a  future  city,  did  no  less  credit  to  his 
judgment  than  to  his  taste.  Its  superior  altitude 
and  natural  strength,  afforded  the  ddvantage  of  its 
being  in  time  rendered,  by  the  labours  of  engi- 
neers, a  respectable  and  formidable  fortress. 

Cape  Diamond,  the  summit  of  the  promonto- 
ry, rises  abruptly  on  the  south,  to  the  height  of 
three  hundred  and  fifty  perpendicular  feet  above 
the  river;  advances  from  the  line  of  the  banks  on 
the  west ;  and  forms  the  ylnce  de  Mer,  a  small 
harbout*,  occupied  for  the  purpose  of  ship-build- 
ing.  Some  uneven  ground  subsides  into  a  valley, 
between  the  works  and  tlic  heights  of  Abraham  ; 
on  tlie  latter  there  are  natural  elevations,  whieh 
are  higher  by  a  few  feet,  than  any  of  the  grounds 
included  within  the  fortifications. 

In  1690,  Quebec  was  first  fortified  with  eleven 
stone  redoubts,  which  served  as  bastions,  com- 
wuimcuting  with  each  other,  by  curtains  composed 


I 


%i 


.-^^'^^^'^X^^s:^- 


hi 


'  (i 


7G  quEBEC. 

of  j>aHisades  ten  feet  in  height,  strengthened  in  the 
iiiterior  with  earth.  No  other  defence  was,  for 
man}'  years,  provided  against  the  hostile  attempts 
of  the  Iroquois,  and  other  savage  tribes  who  were 
inimical  to  the  French  settlers.  The  ruins  of  five 
of  these  redoubts  are  yet  extant.       '  •  ' 

The  citadal  is  now  constructed  on  the  highest 
part  of  Cape  Diamond,  composed  of  a  whole  bas- 
tion, a  curtain  and  half-bastion,  from  whence  it 
extends  along  the  summit  of  the  bank  towards  the 
north-east ;  this  part  being  adapted  with  flanks, 
agreeably  to  the  situation  of  the  ground.  There 
are,  towards  the  south-west,  a  ditch,  counter- 
j^juard,  and  covered- way,  with  glacis.  The  works 
have,  of  late  years,  been  in  a  great  measure  re- 
built, and  raised  to  a  pitch  calculated  to  command 
the  high  grounds  in  the  vicinity,     •      « - 

When  viewed  from  a  small  distance,  they  ex- 
hibit a  handsome  appearance.  A  steep  and  rug. 
ged  bank,  about  fifty  feet  in  height,  terminates  the 
ditch  and  glacis,  on  the  north,  towards  which  the 
ground  slopes  downwards  from  Cape  Diamond, 
nearly  three  hundred  feet,  in  a  distance  of  about 
nine  hundred  yards.  Along  the  summit  of  the 
hank  a  strong  wall  of  stone,  nearly  forty  feet  high, 
having  a  half  and  a  whole  flat  bastion  with  small 
flanks,  occupies  a  space  of  two  hundred  yards,  to 
Palace-gate,  at  which  there  is  a  guard-house. 
From  hence  to  the  new  works  at  Hope-gate,  is  a 
distance  of  about  three  hundred  yards.  The  rocky 


cmmenc( 
far  as  the 
strong  ba 
considera 
and  comi 
Between 
er  town,  i 
intervene/ 
gate-way 
and  this  c 
powerful 
side,  and  < 
the  gover 
consideral 
which  is  (] 
or  castle  o 
precipice, 
ceeds  two 
ported  by 
and  sustai 
occupied  a 
cs,  acting 
governor-^ 
likewise  c( 
dcnce  is  in 
tion,  fbrmi 
apartments 
ture  lias  no 
on  the  brill 


"■^itm-. 


'^-"*'*«.«ftf*'*f(  irf=v*K{«iu;i^.»4-. 


!d  in  the 
vas,  for 
ittenipls 
ho  were 
IS  of  five 

:  highest 
lole  bas- 
hence  it 
irards  the 
1  flanks, 
There 
counter- 
le  works 
asure  re- 
ommand 

they  ex- 
and  rug- 
nates  the 
vhich  the 
)iainond, 
of  about 
lit  of  the 
bet  high, 
ith  small 
yards,  to 
d-housc. 
gate,  is  a 
'he  rockv 


(QUEBEC.  77 

eminence  increases  in  steepness  and  elevation  as 
far  as  the  bishop's  palace  ;  near  which  there  is  a 
strong  battery  of  lieavy  cannon,  extending  a  con- 
considerable  way  along  the  brow  of  the  precipice, 
and  commanding  the  basin,  and  part  of  the  river. 
Between  the  edifice  now  mentioned,  and  the  low- 
er town,  a  steep  passage,  partly  formed  by  nature, 
intervenes ;  over  which  there  is  a  barrier,  witli  a 
gate- way  of  stone,  surmounted  by  a  guard-house : 
and  this  communication  is  otherwise  defended  by 
powerful  works  of  stone,  under  the  palace  on  one 
side,  and  on  the  other  stretching  upwards  towards 
the  government-house,  where  tlic  bank  becomes 
considerably  more    elevated.      This    building, 
which  is  dignified  with  the  appellation  of  chateau^ 
or  castle  of  St.  Louis,  is  placed  on  the  brink  of  a 
precipice,   inaccessible,  and  whose   altitude  ex- 
ceeds two  hundred  feet.     The  building  is  sup- 
jx)rted  by  counterforts,  rising  to  half  its  height, 
and  sustaining  a  gallery        The  apartments  are 
occupied  as  offices  for  the  dvil  and  military  branch- 
es, acting  immediately  under  die  orders  of  the 
governor-general     of    British    America,    who 
likewise  commands  the  troops,  and  whose  resi- 
dcnce  is  in  a  building  of  more  modem  construc- 
tion, forming  the  opposite  side  of  a  square.     The 
apartments  are  spacious  and  plain :  but  the  struc- 
ture has  nothing  external  to  recommend  it.     Up- 
on the  brink  ol  the  precipitous  rocK,  a  stone  wall 

G  2 


•1 


V 


TA\ 


>.»-* 


■\%..: 


:f 


/ 


Hi  ' 


''»  Ml 


I '  ••  I 


78  (QUEBEC. 

is  extended  from  the  old  chateau,  foi*  a  distance 
of  about  three  hundred  yards  to  the  westward, 
which  forms  a  line  of  defence  ;  and  serves  as  a 
boundary  to  the  garden,  within  which  arc  two 
small  batteries,  one  rising  above  the  other* 

Cape  Diamond,  nearly  two  hundred  feet  high- 
er than  the  ground  on  w  hich  the  upper  town  is 
situated,  presents  itself  to  the  westward.  From 
the  garrison  there  are  five  gates,  or  outlets  to  the 
neighbouring  country  :  the  highest,  Port  Saint 
Louis,  opens  to  the  westward,  and  towards  the 
heights  of  Abraham  ;  Port  Saint  John,  towards 
Saint  Foix,  through  which  is  the  road  to  Mon- 
treal ;  Palace  and  Hope-gate  open  towards  the  ri- 
ver Saint  Clwrles  and  the  north ;  and  Prcscott- 
gaie  affords  a  communication  to  the  lower  town 
on  the  south-east.        /"" 

In  most  of  the  public  buildings,  no  great 
degree  of  taste  or  elegance  can  be  discovered,  al- 
though much  labour  and  expenee  must  have  been 
bestowed  on  their  construction.  The  architects 
seem  principally  to  have  had  in  view,  strength 
and  durability,  and  not  to  have  paid  much  regard 
to  those  rules  of  their  art,  which  combine  sym- 
metry with  utility. 
The  cathedral  church  of  the  catholics,  is  a  long, 
elevated,  and  plain  building  of  stone,  with  the 
spire  on  one  side  of  its  front.  The  internal  ap- 
pearance is  neat  and  spacious  :  and  it  is  capable 


h; 


of  Contain! 

good  orga 

The  Je 

Quebec  in 

built;  and 

high,  of  ne 

rea  in  its  o 

and  has,  at 

is  a  remain 

the  promor 

The  soci 

ed  in  Can  a 

body:  and 

first  institut 

rica,  for  the 

vantages  de 

better  class< 

to  all  whos( 

them :  and 

the  West  h 

sion  of  the , 

the  conseqii 

continent,  tl 

b}  the  Britis 

dine.    The 

few  years  ag 

which  form 

crown. 

?  he  lande 
vereign  as  a 


. .  .-^.*««sr-' •  •"  ''^ilew-v^ixai* '" 


-•»t    •  ^— ^-V«.i 


■•'~*-*«»»»w;-t;»v. ,  V 


«  .  f<l>Ai   »-■ 


^-0^Ti 


istancc 
itward, 
s  as  a 
ire  two 

r 

;t  high- 
town  is 
From 
s  to  the 
rt  Saint 
rds  the 
towards 
o  Mon- 
i  the  ri- 
rcscott- 
er  town 

0  great 
red,  al- 
ive been 
chiteets 
strength 

1  regard 
le  sym- 

3  a  long, 
v^ith  the 
rnal  ap- 
oapable 


of  Cbntaining  about  three  thousand  persons.  A 
good  organ  has  here  lately  been  introduced. 

The  Jesuits*  college,  originally  (bunded  at 
Quebec  in  1035,  has  been,  since  that  period,  re- 
built ;  and  is  a  large  stone  edifice,  three  stories 
high,  of  nearly  a  square  figure,  containing  an  a- 
rea  in  its  centre.  The  garden  is  of  some  extent ; 
and  has,  atone  end,  a  grove  of  trees,  part  of  which 
is  a  remain  of  the  original  woods,  with  which 
the  promontory  was  once  covered. 

The  society  of  Jesuits  which  became  establish- 
ed in  Canada,  formerly  composed  a  numerous 
body :  and  their  college  was  considered  as  the 
first  institution,  on  the  continent  of  North  Ame- 
rica, for  the  instruction  of  young  men.  The  ad- 
vantages derived  from  it,  were  not  limited  to  the 
better  classes  of  Canadian^  but  were  extended 
to  all  whose  inclmation  it  was  to  participate  in 
them :  and  many  students  came  thither,  from 
the  West  Indies.  From  the  period  of  the  expul- 
sion of  the  Jesuits  from  the  states  of  Europe,  and 
the  consequent  abolition  of  their  order  on  that 
continent,  this  establishment,  although  protected 
b}  the  British  government,  began  rapidly  to  de- 
cline. The  last  member  of  that  fraternity  died  a 
few  years  ago :  and  the  buildings,  as  well  as  lands, 
which  form  an  extensive  domain,  devolved  to  the 
crown, 

l  he  landed  property  was  designed  by  the  so- 
I  vereign  as  a  recompence  for  the  services  of  the 


<  < 


m 


^SkmSB^^'-"^. 


".-jf 


t,!r 


■;  I- 


80  qyiBEc. 

late  Lord  Amherst,  who  commanded  the  troops 
in  North  America,  at  the  time  of  the  conquest  of 
Canada,  and  who  completed  the  reduction  of 
that  province,  under  the  British  guvernmcnt. 
The  claim  to  these  estates  has  Ix^en  relinquished 
by  his  successor,  for  a  pension.  The  revenue 
arising  from  them,  has  been  appropriated  by  the 
legislature  of  Lower  Canada,  for  the  purpose  of 
establishing  in  the  diflisrent  parishes,  schools  for 
the  education  of  children.  'Ihe  Jesuits'  college 
is  now  converted  into  a  commodious  barrack  for 
the  troops. 

Tlie  seminary,  a  building  of  some  extent, 
forming  three  sides  of  a  square  open  towards  the 
north-west,  contains  a  variety  of  apartments, 
suited  for  the  accommodation  of  a  certain  num- 
ber of  ecclesiastics,  and  of  young  students,  who 
are  of  the  Roman  Catholic  religion.  This  insti- 
tution  owes  its  foundation  to  M.  de  Petre,  who» 
m  1663,  obtained  from  the  King  of  France,  let- 
ters patent  for  that  purpose.  Tythes  were  enjoin- 
ed to  be  paid  by  the  inhabitants,  to  the  directors 
of  the  seminary,  for  its  support :  and  a  thirteenth, 
in  addition  to  what  was  already  the  right  of  the 
church,  was  levied.  This  regulation  being 
found  too  oppressive,  was  altered  to  a  twenty- 
sixth  part  of  the  produce,  to  be  paid  in  grain; 
from  which  tax  newly  cleared  lands  were  exempt- 
ed,  for  a  space  of  five  ycui  s. 

The  members  of  the  seminary  are  composed 


of  a  sup( 
masters, 
men  in  tl 
It'ssed  by 
lioii  of  the 
was  at  firs 
tion  of  pr 
Montreal, 
kind  in  th( 
men  of  the 
be  destine 
north-east 
summer, 
which  exte 
and  overlo( 
The  moi 
of  the  Recq 
of  the  spot 
to  the  fou 
destroyed  I 
they  were  i 
become  ex 
Two  ne 
upon  that  s 
tan  church,. 
law.     Thev 
materials,  w 
and  execut 
The  churc 
may  be  proi 


.-•-— n^.^^ 


.-—-./' 


•"P:**»:i«ii 


,-ji:i. 


e  troopfe 
iqucst  of 
ciion  of 
jrumcnt. 
iiquisihed 
revenue 
d  by  the 
jrposc  of 
hoola  for 
k'  college 
rrack  for 

e  extent, 
nrards  the 
lartments, 
tain  num- 
ents,  who 
;his  insti- 
tre,  who, 
ance,  let- 
re  enjoin- 
directors 
hirteenth, 
ght  of  the 
on    being 
a  twenty- 
in   grain; 
e  exempt- 

coi 


(QUEBEC.  81 

«f  a  superior,  three  directors,  and  six  or  seven 
masters,  who  are  appointed  to  instruct  young 
men  in  the  different  branches  of  education,  pro- 
rc->Ned  by  each.  Since  the  decline  and  cxtnic- 
lioii  of  the  order  of  Jesuits,  the  seminary,  which 
was  at  first  exclusively  designed  for  the  educa- 
tion of  priests ;  and,  excepting  the  college  of 
Montreal,  is  the  only  public  establishment  of  the 
kind  in  the  province,  is  now  open  to  all  young 
men  of  the  catholic  faith,  although  they  may  not 
be  destined  for  the  sacerdotal  function.  The 
north-east  aspect  of  this  building  is  agreeable  in 
sinnmer,  having  under  it  a  spacious  garden, 
which  extends  to  near  tiie  precipice  on  the  cast, 
and  overlooks  the  lower  town. 

The  monastery,  with  tl>e  church  and  garden 
of  the  Recollets,  which  occupied  the  western  side 
of  the  spot  called  Place  (V  ArmeSy  are  now  rased 
to  the  foundation ;  the  buildings  having  been 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1796,  and  the  order  to  which 
they  were  appropriated,  having  since  that  period, 
become  extinct. 

Two  new  edifices  have  lately  been  erected, 
upon  that  site  ;  the  one,  a  protestant  metropoli- 
tan church,  the  other  a  house  for  the  courts  of 
law.  They  are  both  constructed  with  the  best 
materials,  which  this  part  of  the  country  affords, 
and  executed  in  a  neat  and  handsome  style. 
The  church,  although  not  much  ornamented, 
may  be  pronounced   elegant,  the  rules  of  archi- 


)  <i 


♦  -V*   ^-3»>t^—  ■  —«\t» f^- 


^^■rrssssz^^^;;^,.,'**^-^' 


■-;^s^' 


M.:i 


il.> 


;'i 


^  ■.* 


^'2  QUEBEC. 

tecture  having  been  adhered  to  in  its  structure. 
Considered  as  ornaments  to  the  city  of  Quebec, 
it  5s  to  be  regretted,  that  separate  situations  have 
not  been  allotted  fv)r  them  ;  and  that  in  a  country 
where  pubHc  buildings  capable  of  attracting  notice 
are  rarely  to  be  met  with,  two  edifices  of  such 
consequence  should  have  been  placed  so  near 
to  each  other. 

The  Hott'  Dieu,  with  its  gardens,  occupies  a 
large  extent  of  ground.  It  was  founded  in  1638 
by  the  Duchess  d'  Aiguillon,  who  sent  from  the 
hospital  at  Dieppe  three  nuns,  for  the  purpose  of 
leommencing  this  charitable  and  useful  institution. 
It  consists  of  a  superior,  and  twenty-seven  sis- 
ters, whose  principal  occupation  is  to  assist,  and 
to  administer  medicines  and  food  to  invalids  of 
both  sexes,  who  may  be  sent  to  the  hospital,  and 
who  are  lodged  in  wards,  where  much  regard  is 
paid  to  cleanliness. 

The  convent  of  the  Ursulines  was  instituted  in 
J  639,  by  Madame  de  la  Peltrie,  a  young  widow 
of  condition,  in  France.  It  is  possessed  by  a  su- 
perior, and  thirty-six  nuns,  who  are  chiefly  en- 
gaged in  the  instruction  of  young  women.  The 
building  is  spacious,  and  has  extensive  j^ardens 
annexed  to  it 

The  bishop's  palace,  already  mentioned,  situa 
ted  near  the  communication  with  the  lower  town, 
has  been,  for   several  years,  occupied  for  public 
offices,  and  for  a  library.     The  chapel  has  been 


m^; 


,t^'-—'*^-a^ 


„/'^"**''=^)....^.,^" 


ructure. 
Quebec, 
)ns  have 

country 
ng  notice 
s  of  such 

so  neiur 

ccupics  a 
I'm  1638 
from  the 
jurpose  of 
nstitution. 
•seven  sis- 
issist,  and 
invalids  of 
ispital,  and 
n  regard  is 

istituted  in 
ng  widow 
^d  by  a  su- 
chiefly  cn- 
en.  The 
•e  gardens 

incd,  situa- 
)\ver  town, 
for  public 

il  has  bceH 


QUEBEC,  85* 

eonvcrted  into  a  room,  lor  the  meeting  of  the  pro- 
yincial  assembly  of  representatives. 

Another  edifice  on  the  north  side  of  the  town, 
extending  in  length  from  Pdlacc-giite  to  the  ram- 
parts on  the  west,  upwards  of  five  hunrlrcd  feet 
in  length,  contuins  a  number  of  vault:d  apart- 
ments ;  and  is  occupied  for  the  office  of  <.>idiiaiice, 
for  barracks  lor  the  royal  artillery,  for  an  armou- 
ry, store- houses  and  \\  or k- shops,  and  lor  a  pub- 
lic goal,  which  forms  the  east  end  ol  the  building. 
The  ruins  of  a  large  h(5!Use,  which  was  former- 
ly that  of  the  intendant,  remain  on  a  flat  ground 
on  the  banks  of  the  river  Saint  Charles,  and  in  the 
suburbs  of  Saint  Roc.     This  was  once  called  a 
palace ;  because  the  council  of  the  French  go- 
vernment in   North  America  there  assembled. 
The  apartments,  which  were  numerous  and  spa- 
cious,   \vere    furnished  with  magnificence  and 
splendour.     On  one  side  of  the  court,  were  plac- 
ed the  king's  store-houses,  which,  together  \v  ith 
the  palace,  were  consumed  by  fire,  occasioned  by 
a  shell  thrown  from  the  garrison  in  1775,  \\hen 
the  town  was  blockaded  by  the  Americans,  w  ith 
a  view  to  dishxlge  some  of  the  hostile  troops,  ^\ho 
k;d  taken  shelter  in  these  buildings. 

The  general  hospital,  on  the  banks  of  the  Saint 
Chiu^lcs,  about  a  mile  westward  from  the  garrison, 
aiid  surrounded  by  meadow  lands,  was  founded 
in  1693,  by  M.  de  Saint  Vallier,  Bishop  of  Que- 
bee,  with  the  benevolent  design  of  aflbidnig  sup- 


.,:js^ 


M 


ii.» 


84  qiJEBEt. 

port  and  relief  to  the  poor,  the  infirm,  the  sick, 

and  the  uourided :  nor  have  the  purposes  oi  its 

original  founder  at  any  time  been  defeated,  with 

regard  to  the  most  scrupulous  exactitude  in  their 

fulfilment.     The  extent  of  the  building,  whose 

form  is  that  of  a  parallelogram,  is  considerable : 

and  it  contains  a  variety  of  apartments,  neat  and 

commodious.  A  superior  and  thirty -seven  sisters 

compose  the  community.     Their  time  which  re- 

muinsircm  the  occupations  of  the  duties  of  reli. 

gion,  and  the  offices  of  humanity,  is  employed  in 

gi idling  ornaments  for  the  decoration  of  churches, 

and  in  several  other  works,  at  which  they  are  ex- 

pert. 

The  streets  of  Quebec  are,  in  consequence  of  | 

its  situation,  irregular  and  uneven  :  many  of  them 
are  narrow ;  and  but  very  few  are  paved.     The 
houses  are  built  of  stone ;  are  of  unequal  heights^ 
and  covered,   in  general,   w  ith  roofs  of  boards. 
The  roughness  of  the  materials  of  which  they  arei 
constructed,  gives  them   a  rugged  aspect :  an(l| 
the  ;h  commodations  are  fitted  up  in  a  style  equal- 
ly j)lain  and  void  of  taste.  The  frequent  accidents 
"wiiich  have  "happened,  and  the  extensive  damage  I 
which  the  town  has  rej^eatcdly   sustained  from 
conflagrations,  have  sugs^ested  the  expediency  ofl 
covering  the  public  buildings,  and  many  of  tk 
dM eiiiag-houses,  with  tin,  or-i^ainted  blieet-iion. 

The  io\\'er  town,  which  is  the  principal  pliCtl 
of  commerce,  occupies  the  ground  at  the  basis  of 


the  prom 
ii'oni  the 
the  river 
wharfs. 
I)readth,  i 
and  its  gr 
llu  ms,  th 
;^ood 

Since  t 
carried  on 
of  every  di 
a  thou sane 
The  mate 
country ;   1 
are  general 
ses  eightee 
i'eet,  there  i 
dock-yardd 
Tlie  roc 
is  compose 
slate,  varyi 
parcntly  co 
nier,  be  sh 
exposure  tc 
dci-s  into  s( 
hot  I  ses  of 
there  is  a  m 
ry,  its  dti'^a 
The  inn 


•■■V     ••' 


-sn^imi^" 


....^;...  ...■jrfrlttKfci  !■ 


the  promontory,  w  hich  has  been  grac(ually  gained 
ironi  the  cliffs  on  one  side,  by  mining,  and  from 
the  river  on  the  other,  by  the  construction  of 
wharfs.  The  channel  is  here  about  a  mile  in 
l)readth,  to  Point  Levi,  on  the  opposite  shore  : 
and  its  greatest  depth  at  high  water,  is  thirty  fa- 
th(  ms,  the  anchorage  being  every  where  safe  and 
l^ood 

Since  the  year  1793,  ship-building  has  been, 
carried  on  with  considerable  success :  and  vessels 
of  every  description  and  dimension,  from  fifty  to 
a  thousand  tons  burthen.,  have  been  constructed. 
The  materials  are  found  in  abundance  in  the 
country :  but  the  anchors,  sails,  and  cordage, 
are  generally  imported.  As  the  tide  usually  ri- 
ses eighteen  feet,  and  at  spring  tides  twenty-four 
feet,  there  is  no  difficulty  in  finding  situations  for 
dock-yards. 

The  rock,  of  which  the  promontory  of  Quebec 
is  composed,  consists  of  a  species  of  black  lime 
slate,  varying  in  thickness ;  which,  although  ap- 
parently compact,  may,  by  the  stroke  of  a  ham- 
mer, be  shivered  into  very  thin  pieces ;  and,  by 
exposure  to  the  influence  of  the  weather,  it  moul- 
ders into  soil.  A  considerable  number  of  the 
houses  of  the  town,  is  built  of  this  stone  :  and 
there  is  a  mode  of  pldcing  it,  by  which,  in  mason- 
ry, its  dunibility  may  be  considerably  prolo  icred. 

The  inhabitants,    coinpreiicijided  in  Quebec. 

H 


i  I 


,< 


t>:j\ 


!  ''  in 


»?;■; 


86  (^UEJil.t/. 

and  in  the  suburbs  of  Saint  John  and  Saint  Ro€. 
«iay  be  computed  at  about  fifteen  thousand. 

When  viewed  from  Point  Levi,  on  the  oppo- 
site coast  of  the  river,  an  interesting  variety  of 
f)bjects  is  exhibited,  by  massy  rocks,  interspers- 
ed with  shrubbery ;  by  Cape  Diamond,  boldly 
rising  from  the  water ;  by  the  houses  along  its 
base,  contrasted  with  the  overhanging  cliffs ;  by 
a  confused  cluster  of  buildings  overtopping  each 
other  up  the  side  of  the  hill ;  and  by  the  fortifica- 
tions which  crown  the  summit.  The  Saint  Law- 
rence flowing  on  one  side,  and  the  Saint  Charles 
on  the  other,  give  to  this  spot,  the  appearance  of 
an  island  The  bridge  across  the  latter  is  like- 
wise visible  from  hence :  and  remote  mountain^ 
terminate  the  prospect. 

The  scene,  in  winter,  becomes  amusing  to 
stnu-gers ;  particularly,  if  the  ice  on  the  great  ri- 
vcr,  between  Quebec,  and  the  opposite  coast  of 
Point  Levi,  be  closely  fixed,  a  circumstance 
which  depends  more  upon  accident,  than  on  the 
severity  of  cold ;  and  does  not  frequently  occur. 
When  the  ice  becomes  consolidated  and  station- 
ary,  it  is  called,  by  the  Canadians,  the  ponty  which 
affords,  not  only  to  the  country  i:>eople  inhabit- 
inp;  the  neighbouring  parishes  on  the  south  side, 
a  facility  of  conveying  their  produce  to  market, 
and  tliereby  of  rendering  provisions  and  ]^ro vender 
more  abundant  in  the  town ;  but  likewise  pre- 
Gents  a  large  field  lor  gratification  and  c^Lercis^ 


^jiUaUaa*''*' 


'j'imim»''- 


KIVER  MONTMORENCI.  87 

to  the  citizens,  who  then  are  constantly  driving 
their  horses  and  carriages,  upon  the  sohd  surLcc 
of  the  stream. 

From  the  heights  to  the  westward  of  the  gar- 
rison, an  extensive  and  beautiful  view,  is  develop- 
ed, in  summer,  to  the  eye  of  the  spectator.  It 
is  composed  of  the  works,  part  of  the  loftier  build- 
ings of  the  town,  the  basin,  Point  Levi,  the  island 
of  Orleans,  the  south  and  north  channels,  the  pa- 
rishes of  Beauport,  Ange  Gardien,  and  cliatcuii 
Richer,  ^^'ith  the  mountains  on  the  north-cast, 
stretching  to  Cape  Tourment. 

The  river  Montmorenci,  which  empties  hr/Ai' 
into  the  Saint  Lawrence,  at  the  distance  of  eight 
miles  to  the  north-east  of  Quebec,  was  called  aficr  a 
marechal  of  that  name,  \\'ho  was  vicerov  of  New 
France.  Passing  through  a  course  from  the 
north-east,  of  considerable  length,  the  first  settle- 
ment through  which  it  flows,  is  called  La  INIottc, 
situated  on  the  northern  extremity  of  a  sloping- 
ground,  which  gradually  descends  from  the  moun- 
tains, to  the  coast  of  the  great  river.  At  La  Mot- 
te,  the  waters  diffuse  themselves  into  shallow  cur- 
rents,  inteiTupted  by  rocks,  Avhich  break  thcin 
into  foam,  accompanied  by  murmuring  sounds, 
tending  to  enliven  the  solitude  and  solemn  still- 
ness,  which  prevail  throughout  the  surrounding 
forests,  and  on  the  desolate  hills.  The  chaimel 
n?  the  river,  farther  down,  is  bounded  by  preci- 
pitous  rocks :  its  breadth    becomes    extremely 


if 


.2S5'*'^ 


.  .^^iteJi^/'"'*'*****^^*^* 


iiti/' '-'••*• 


i'i 


m'' 


88  r^IVER    MONTJTORENCI. 

contracted  :  and  the  rajjidiiy  oi  its  current  is  pro- 
portionably  air^ir.cntcd.  At  a  place  calied  the 
tiitural SiCps,  there  arc  cascades  of  tlie  hclj^jhi  oi" 
tc»i,  or  twehc  feet.  These  steps  have  been  ^ra- 
lUiall}  formed,  by  tlie  accession  of  waters  \\l>ich 
the  river  rtcei\es  in  its  progress,  at  the  break- 
ing up  of  ^'^■intcr,  and  by  the  meUing  of  snows. 
From  the  middle  of  April,  to  the  end  of  May,  its 
waters  roll  along  with  an  increasing  height  and 
rapidity.  The  banks,  from  the  natural  steps, 
downwards  to  the  Saint  Lawrence,  are  composed 
of  a  lirac  slate,  placed  in  horizontal  strata,  from 
ihe  deptli  of  five  to  twenty-four  inches  each,  con- 
nected by  fibrous  gypsum  of  a  whitish  colour. 
The  ^^'atcrs,  at  the  season  already  mentioned, 
powerfully  impelled  in  their  course,  insinuate 
themselves  between  the  strata;  dissolve  the  gyp- 
sum ;  and  tear  the  horizontal  rock  i  whicii  gives 
^vay,  in  fnunnents  of  various  sizes,  yielding  to  the 
lushiiK:^-  N  lolencc  of  the  svv'eeping  torrent.  The 
ie;j;ulari:y  displayed  in  the  formation  of  some  of 
ihesc  steps,  is  well  deserving  of  observation. 

On  the  east  side,  the  bank  is  almost  perpendicu- 
lar ,  is  nearly  fifty  feet  in  altitude  ;  and  is  cover- 
ed at  the  summit,  with  trees.  The  south-west 
bank  rises  beyond  the  steps.  Jn  looking  down- 
wards it  csppears  also  w  ooded ;  and  terminates  in 
a  precipice  The  bank  on  the  opposite  side,  as- 
sumes a  regularity  of  shape,  so  singular,  as  to  re- 
semble the  rums  of  a  lofty  wall.  Somev.  hat  below, 


t)ie  banks  ( 

which,  togc 

foaming  cui 

stone,  com] 

From  hence 

is  augmente 

interrupted 

ther  down, 

feet  is  prodi 

ful  variety  tl 

cipitated  in 

over  a  rock  i 

ty-six  feet,  f 

white  cloudi 

where  it  is  p 

tion,  in  num 

which  are  gr 

until  they  are 

abyss,  below 

Viewed  fi 

whence  they 

every  concor 

feet  awfully 

The  prod: 

ness  and  vok 

of  their  move 

and  hollow  n< 

ing  with  incei 

the  dashing  v 

the  attenuon, 


c 


- 


'■* 


•"''^y»i<ti<tv->' 


"^pjj>* 


RIVER  MONTMORENCI.  ^9 

tlie  banks  on  each  side,  are  clothed  with  trees, 
which,  together  with  the  effect  produced  by  the 
foaming  currents,  and  the  scattered  masses  of 
stone,  compose  a  scene,  wild  and  picturesque. 
From  hence,  taking  a  south  direction,  the  stream 
is  augmented  in  velocity  ;  and  forms  a  cascade 
interrupted  by  huge  rocks  :  and  at  a  distance  far- 
ther down,  of  five  hundred  yards,  a  similar  ef- 
fect is  produced.  After  thus  exhibiting  a  grate- 
ful variety  throughout  its  course,  the  river  is  pre- 
cipitated in  an  almost  perpendicular  direction, 
over  a  rock  of  the  height  of  two  hundred  and  for- 
ty-six feet,  falling,  where  it  touches  the  rock,  in 
white  clouds  of  rolling  foam ;  and  underneath, 
where  it  is  propelled  with  uninterrupted  gravita- 
tion, in  numerous  flakes,  like  wool  or  cotton, 
which  are  gradually  protracted  in  their  desce?it, 
until  they  are  received  into  the  boiling,  profound 
abyss,  below. 

Viewed  from  the  summit  of  the  cliff,  from 
whence  they  are  thrown,  the  waters,  with 
every  concomitant  circumstance,  produce  an  ef- 
fect awfully  grand,  and  wonderfully  sublime. 
The  prodij.ous  depth  of  their  descent,  the  bright- 
ness  and  volubility  of  their  course,  the  svv'iftness 
of  their  movement  through  the  air,  and  the  loud 
and  hollow  noise  emitted  from  the  basin,  swell- 
ing with  incessant  agitation  from  tiie  weight  of 
the  dashing  waters,  forcibly  combine  to  attract 
the  attention,  and  to  impress  with  sentiments  of 

u2 


r  r 


id: 


\  i 


m 


"W" 


'.■*»'&i.l 


.y'«»»^»'^**: 


'*#S. 


m', 


'mI') 


(. 


9 

IH)  RIVER    MONTMORENCI. 

grandeur  and  elcvition,  the  mind  of  the  spectator. 
Tiic  clouds  of  vapour  arising,  and  assuming  the 
prismatic  colours,  contribute  to  enliven  the  scene. 
They  fly  oif  from  the  full  in  the  form  of  a  revolv- 
ing sphere,  emitting  with  velocity,  pointed  flakes 
of  spray,  which  spread  in  receding,  until  inter- 
cepted  by  neighbouring  banks,  or  dissolved  in 
the  atmosphere. 

The  breadth  of  the  fiill  is  one  hundred  feet. 
The  basin  is  bounded  by  steep  cliffs,  composed 
of  grey  lime  slate,  lying  in  inclined  strata,  which, 
on  the  east  and  west  sides,  arc  subdivided  into 
innumerable  thin  shivers,  forming  with  the  hori- 
zon,  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees,  and  contain- 
ing  between  them,  fibrous  gypsum  and  pierre  a 
calumet.'^  Mouldering  incessantly,  by  exposure 
to  the  air,  and  to  the  action  of  the  weather,  no 
surface  for  vegetation  remains  upon  these  sub- 
stances. 

An  advantageous  view  of  the  fall  may  be  ob- 
tained from  the  beach,  when  the  tide  of  the  great  I 
river  is  low.     In  this  are  included,  the  east  bank 
of  the  river,   the  point  of  Ange  Gardien,   and 
Cape  Tourment.      I'he  south-west  point  of  the 
basin,  becomes  the  nearest  object,  beyond  which| 
appears  the  cataract  of  resplendent  beauty,  foam- 
ing down  the  gloomy  precipice,  whose  summitsl 
are  crowiied  with  woods.  Its  reflection  from  liie 
bed  beneath,  forms  a  contrast  to  the  shade  thr    '  n 

*  Soft  stone,  of  wiuck  die  hoiiUa  of  pipes^  are  sonieUmci  I'orme: 


by  the  ne 

stream,  t 

the  varioi 

qualities  i 

Lawrcnct 

bi  nation. 

through  a 

rally  supf 

One  circL 

this  conje 

the  river  i 

stratum  o 

are  fords  i 

neral  dept 

inches :   b 

the  strean 

feet  in  der 

deep  exca 

which,  if 

rence,  mi 

baoins  of 

in  most 

is  unpieas 


::;f  ; 


*  «v-^   ^ 


fern  ?•  |"-W 


RIVER   MONTMORF.NCI.  91 

by  the  neighbouring  clitic  Tin.  diffusion  of  the 
stream,  to  a  breacMi  oi  five  hundred  yards,  \\ilh 
the  various  sm^Il  cascades  produced  by  the  irc- 
qualities  in  its  rocky  bed,  on  its  way  to  the  S  uiit 
Lawrence,  display  a  singular  and  pleasing  com- 
bination. It  runs  for  about  four  luincht  d  yards, 
through  a  wide  and  steep  gii'l^h?  which  it  is  gene- 
rally suppoiifed,  that  its  ^Vaters  have  excavated. 
One  circumstance  seems,  hov  ever,  to  controvert 
this  conjecture.  The  bed  beneath,  over  which 
the  river  flows,  is  invariably  composed  of  a  solid 
stratum  of  rock,  over  several  parts  of  which,  there 
are  fords  for  the  passage  of  carriages  The  ge- 
neral depth  of  water,  does  not  here  exceed  eight 
inches :  but  partial  chtinnels  have  been  worn  by 
the  stream,  few  of  which  are  above  three  or  four 
feet  in  depth.  There  appears  no  vestige  of  any 
deep  excavation,  except  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fall, 
which,  if  it  had  ever  receded  from  the  Siiint  Law- 
rence, must  have  formed  in  the  solid  bed  of  rock, 
baoins  of  considerable  depth.  The  ford  being, 
in  most  places,  rugg-^d  and  unequal,  its  passage 
is  impieasant,  and  not  altogether  safe. 


'J 


i(i. 


W 


< 


l  H^ 


•*C-t   *^' 


^"^ 


y^v^-i   jrii' 


tiitew»*^^ 


/' 


m 


,  '■*! ' 


H 


li 


92  JEUNE  LORETTE. 


CHAPTER  V. 

yeune  LorettC'-^omiciltated  nattves^'mode  of  dancing 
-^he  Saint  Charles^-cascades  on  that  river — the 
Chnudiere — description  of  its  fdl-^appearance  in 
xvinter— ^island  of  Orleans — viexvn  from  theiict-^ 
soi'— north  coast  of  the  Saint  Lawrence — Cape 
Tourment'~~River  Saint  Anne — its  •waterfalls'^ 
lower  fall  de\crtbed~^La  Puce — romantic  falls  oj 
that  little  river — various  landscapes— ~Lake  Saint 
Charlcs'^^picturesque  combinations, 

JEUNE  LORETTE  is  situated  nine  miles 
to  the  north-west  of  Quebec,  upon  a  tract  of  land 
which  rises  towards  the  mountains.  It  com- 
mands, by  its  elevated  position,  an  extensive 
view  of  the  river  Saint  Lawrence,  of  Quebec,  of 
the  intermediate  country,  of  the  southern  coast,  and 
of  the  mountains  which  separate  Canada  from  the 
United  States.  The  village,  which  contains  up- 
wards of  two  hundred  inhabitants,  consists  of  a- 
bout  fifty  houses,  constructed  of  wood  and  stone, 
which  have  a  decent  appearance. 

The  chapel  is  small,  but  neat ;  and  the  parish 
extending  to  a  considerable  way  around,  the  Ca- 
nadians, who  form  the  greatest  number  of  parish- 
ioners, have  lately  procured  a  church  to  be  erect- 
ed for  their  accommodation,  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  the  village.     The  luditina  attend,  with 


scrupulous 

their  dcvoti 

centre  of  th 

sc  ves  on  e; 

mcT  huvc  ii 

cs  hcem  to  i 

cy,  ill  the  e 

They  liv< 

rupted  harn 

ry  has  a   gi 

havcexclian 

savage  life, 

vicinity  thej 

The  quan 

is  iibout  two 

Indian  corn, 

pursue  the  c 

French  langi 

derable  ease 

standing  the 

independanc 

limitation  of 

principal  feat 

This  natic 

of  lake  Hu re 

bee.     It  was 

of  any  tribe  t 

even   by  the 

nicans  to   su 

by  pretendin 


'AV 


'  dancing 
ver — the 
irance  in 
themt—^ 
ce — Cape 
ferfdlls'-* 
falls  oj 
ake  Saint 


ne  miles 
t  of  land 
It  com- 
'xtensive 
lebec,  of 
oast,  and 
rom  the 
ains  up- 
sts  of  a» 
id  stone, 

le  parish 
the  Ca- 
ff parish- 
3e  erect- 
rter  of  a 
;nd,  with 


JEUNE    LORETTL.  D3 

scrupulous  observance,  to  the  perfom^ancc  of 
their  devotions  The  women  arc  placed  in  the 
centre  of  the  chapel :  a'ld  the  men  arrange  ihem- 
sc  ves  on  each  side,  and  on  the  rear.  The  for- 
mer have  in  general  good  voices  :  and  both  sex- 
es hcem  to  evince  a  considerable  degree  of  ft- rven- 
cy,  in  the  exercise  of  their  religious  duties. 

They  live  together  in  a  state  of  almost  uninter- 
rupted harmony  and  tranquillity.  The  missiona- 
ry has  a  gri^at  influence  over  them :  and  they 
have  exchanged,  in  some  degree,  the  manners  of 
savage  life,  for  those  of  the  Canadians,  in  whose 
vicinity  they  reside. 

The  quantity  of  land  they  occupy  in  cultivation, 
is  about  two  hundred  acres,  which  they  plant  with 
Indian  corn,  or  maize.  A  numl^cr  of  the  men 
pursue  the  chace,  during  die  winter  season  The 
French  language  is  spoken  by  them  with  consi- 
derable ease  :  and  the  men,  in  general,  notwith- 
standing their  partial  civilization,  maintain  that 
independance,  which  arises  from  the  paucity  and 
limitation  of  their  wants,  and  which  constitutes  a 
principal  feature  in  the  savage  character. 

This  nation  originally  frequented  the  vicinity 
I  of  lake  Huron,  near  a  thousand  miles  from  Que- 
bec. It  was  once  the  most  formidable  and  fierec, 
of  any  tribe  that  inhabited  those  quarters,  dreaded 
even  by  the  Iroquois  ;  who,  however,  ibund 
means  to  subjugate,  and  almost  to  extirpate  it, 
|by  pretending  to  enter  into  an  alliance,     The 


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Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER, NY.  MS80 

(716)  872-4503 


1^ 


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m 


K'>' 


Wi 


1,  i , 


f.\ 


<i  •     [ 


\ 


''^•: 


^>'i  JEUXE   LORETTE. 

Hiiroiis,  too  blindly  relying  on  the  protestatioib 
of  the  Irociuois,  the  latter  seized  an  opportunity. 
to  surprise  and  slaughter  them.  The  village  now 
described,  ^vas  composed  of  a  part  of"  the  Huroiis 
who  escaped  from  the  destruction  of  their  tribe ; 
;ind  is  occupied  by  the  descendants  of  that  pco- 
j)le. 

We  assembled  together  in  the  evening,  a  num- 
ber of  males  and  females  of  the  village,  whore- 
peatedly  performed  their  several  dances,  descrip. 
live  of  their  manner  of  going  to  war ;  of  watcli- 
ing  to  ensnare  the  enemy ;  and  of  returning 
^vith  the  captives  they  were  supjx)sed  to  have 
surprised.  The  instrument  chiefly  in  use  in  the 
dances,  is  a  calibash  fiiied  with  small  pebbles,  call- 
ed  chichicoue^  which  is  shaken  by  the  hand  in  or. 
der  to  mark  the  cadence,  for  the  voices  and  the 
movements.  They  are  strangers  to  melody  in 
their  songs,  being  totally  unacquainted  with  mu- 
sic. The  syllables  which  they  enounce,  arc  z/o, 
He^  7Vaw.  These  are  invariably  repeated,  the  be- 
holders beating  time  with  their  hands  and  i'cet. 
The  dancers  move  their  limbs  but  a  little  ^^i.y 
from  the  ground,  which  they  beat  \vith  violence. 
Their  dancing,  and  their  music,  are  uniformly 
rude  and  disgusting  :  and  the  only  circumstance 
which  can  recompense  a  civilized  spectator,  fur 
the  penance  sustained  by  his  ear,  amid  this  bois- 
terous roar,  and  clash  of  discordant  sounds,  is, 
that  to  each  dance  is  annexed  the  representation 


(jfsomc  acti( 

life;  and  iha 

some  idea  m 

ducting  their 

Tlie  river : 

Cdfjir  Couhai 

channel,  aftei 

est  of  the   1 

rillage,  and  r 

if  the  altitud 

iiid  romantic 

s  under  the  f 

larrow ;  and 

;d  by  woody 

ipenings  cut 

rushing  wate 

oscdby  roc 

ipon  its  gloo 

uring  souni 

cascades  aboi 

ind  the  distai 

scape. 

About  thn 
the  village  of 
isii  is  populc 
the  oldest  set 
Mint  Charle 
ground  abou 
and  the  vilUu 
commands  a 


.^f*»:v..j( 


»^ii&.«.«" 


JETJNE   LORETTE.  95 

[«f  some  action,  peculiar  to  ilie  habits  of  savage 
life ;  and  that,  by  seeing  their  dances  perlornied, 
some  idea  may  be  acquired,  of  the  mode  of  con- 
liicting  their  unimproved  system  of  war  laic. 

Tiie  river  Saint  Charles,  called  by  the  natives, 
\(M'  Couhat,  on  account  of  tlie  curvatures  of  its 
channel,  after  winding  for  a  few  miles  to  the  south- 
\vest  of  the  lake  of  that  name,  passes  the  Jndiaa 
tillage,  and  rolls  over  a  steep  and  irregular  rock, 
of  the  altitude  of  thirty  feet,  forming  a  beautiful 
ind  romantic  cataract.  In  passing  a  mill,  which 
Is  under  the  f. ill,  the  current  becomes  extremely 
[laiTow ;  and,  for  a  space  of  three  miles,  is  bound- 
ed by  woody  banks,  on  which  there  are  frequent 
openings  cut  through  the  trees,  disclosing  the 
rushing  waters.  The  rapidity  of  the  stream,  op- 
posed-by  rocks,  produces  quantities  of  white  foam 
jpon  its  gloomy  surface,  accompanied  by  mur- 
mring  sounds.  The  waterfall,  with  the  smaller 
cascades  above  it,  the  mill,  the  bridge,  the  village, 
and  the  distant  hills,  present  an  agreeable  land» 
scape. 

About  three  leagues  to  the  eastward  of  LorettQ, 
^lie  village  of  Charlebourg  is  situated.  This  pa- 
rish is  populous  and  well  cultivated,  being  one  of 
|the  oldest  settlements  on  that  side  of  the  river 
5aint  Charles.  The  church  stands  on  rising 
ground  about  a  league  to  the  north  of  Quebec  : 
and  the  village,  from  the  altitude  of  its  position, 
Commands  a  rich  and  extensive  prospect.     The 


:..h 


I  i 


il 


!  J 


l'^ 


M 


96  R 1 V  E  R    C  H  A  U  D I  E  R  E . 

lands  arc  six  ml.c  a  in  cUpth,  -and  lorm  part  of  the 
seig7icuru' oi  X\\L  Jesuits.     ■  ' 

The  ri\  cr  (Jhaur/iere  L'mpViQs  itself  into  the  Siiint 
Lawrence,  about  eight  miles  lo  the  south-west  of 
Quebec.  Its  mouth  is  confined  by  woody  banks; 
and  contains  depth  of  water  to  admit  a  ship  of 
considerable  size.  This  stream  flows  irom  Lake 
Megantic,  through  a  course,  north  and  north- 
•west,  for  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  tw  enty 
miles. 

The  falls  are  about  four  miles  from  its  mouth  : 
and  the  road  thither  being,  for  the  greatest  part 
through  woods,  it  is  necessary,  even  for  those 
that  have  already  visited  them,  to  take  as  a  guide, 
one  of  the  neighbouring  inhabitants.  The  sum- 
mit of  the  falls  is  about  one  hundred  and  twenty 
yards  in  breadth  :  and,  in  the  spring  of  the  year, 
the  waters  flow  abundantly,  swoln  by  the  increase 
which  they  receive,  from  the  dissolving  snows 
of  the  country  through  which  they  run,  and  from 
tributary  streams,  w  hich,  at  this  season,  arc  like- 
wise augmented  by  the  same  causes. 

The  month  of  May  appears  to  be  the  most  ad- 
vantageous period,  at  which  to  contcmphte  this 
interesting  seei  .e  ;  the  approach  to  which  ought 
first  to  be  made  from  the  top  of  the  banks,  as  in 
emerging  from  the  woods,  it  conducts  at  once  to 
the  sr.niniit  of  the  cataract,  where  the  objects 
which  instantaneously  become  dtvtioped  to  ihe 


."■  I 


«>ye,  strike  the  ;iH»id  witii  suri)ns'.*,  and  produce  a 
wonderiUi  and  powerful  impression. 

The  waters  descend  from  a  height  of  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  fett;  and,  being  separated  by 
rocks,  form  three  distinct  cataracts  the  largest  of 
which  is  on  the  western  side,  and  they  unite,  in 
the  basin  beneath,  their  broken  and  agitcitcd  wavcs. 
The  form  of  the  rock  forces  a  part  of  the  waters, 
into  an  oblique  direction,  and  advances  them  be- 
yo  id  the  line  of  the  precipice.  The  cavities 
worn  in  the  rocks,  produce  a  pleasing  variety  ; 
and  Ciiuse  the  descending  waters  to  revolve  witli 
foaming  fury,  to  whose  whiteness  the  gloomy  cliffs, 
present  a  strong  opposition  of  colour.  The  va-» 
pour  from  each  division  of  the  fliUs,  quickly 
mounting  through  the  air,  bestows  an  enlivening 
beauty  on  the  landscape. 

The  vviid  diversity  displayed  by  the  banks  of 
the  stream,  and  the  foliage  of  the  overhanging 
woods,  the  brilliancy  of  colours  richly  contrasted, 
the  rapidity  of  motion,  the  efluigent  brightness  of 
the  cataracts,  the  deep  and  solemn  sound  winch 
they  emit,  and  the  various  cascades  further  down 
the  river,  unite  in  rendering  tliis,  such  a  pieuohig 
exhibition  of  natural  objects,  as  lew  scenes  can 
surpass. 

On  descending  the  side  of  the  river,  the  land- 
scape becomes  considerably  altered ;  and  the  falls 
appear  to  great  advantage.  Masses  of  rocK,  tuid 
elevated  points  of  land  covered  wita  trets,  toge- 


■',i 


Jiii 


4 


i: 


II. 


hi 


• 


I  \ 


S8  illVER   KHAtTDTERE. 

iher  with  the  sinalicr  cascades  on  the  stream,  prc^ 
•sent  a  rich  asyemblage,  terniinated  by  the  falls. 
The  scenery  in  proceeding  down  the  river,  is 
rugged  and  wild. 

The  gi'atification  derived,  in  the  beginning  of 
•nimmer,  from  the  contemplation  of  such  scenes 
as  that  which  has  now  been  described,  is  consi- 
derably damped  by  a  refiection  on  the  short  dura- 
tion of  the  period  allotted  lor  beholding  them  with 
comfort.  Myriads  of  winged  insects,  hostile  to  the 
repose  of  man,  will  shortly  inlest  the  borders  of  this 
river.  When  the  warm  weather,  which  consists  liot 
of  one  half  the  year,  is  ej.piied,tlit  ungenial  win- 
ter will  resume  its  don.ination  ;  and  the  lalls  them- 
selves, except  an  inconsiderable  part  of  thcm^ 
must,  notwithstanding  the  rapidity  oi  their  course, 
become  a  solid  body. 

Viewed  in  the  winter  season,  the  falls  exhibit 
an  appearance  more  curious  than  pleasing;  be- 
ing, for  the  greatest  part  coijgealed,  and  the  ge- 
neral form  of  the  congelattd  masses,  is  that  of  a 
concretion  of  icicles,  ^^  hich  resembles  a  cluster 
of  pillars  in  gothic  architecture  ;  ai;d  nay  not  im- 
properly be  compared  to  the  pipes  oi  an  organ. 
The  spray  becomes  likewise  consolidated  iiitp 
three  masses,  or  sections  of  a  cone,  externally 
convex,  but  concave  tt  wards  the  lalls.  I  he  west 
side,  being  usually  the  only  place  in  which  the 
waters  flow,  the  aspect  is  nifinittly  inferior  to  that 
dispia}ed  in  summer  ;  and  the  sound  emitted,  is 


■«  ii 


nvcr,  IS 


ISLAND  OF  ORLEANS.  •    91) 

comparatively  fuint.  The  surrouiuling  objects, 
covered  alike  w  itli  snow,  present  one  lu^/itbrni 
glare,  i'hc  rocks,  and  the  bed  of  the  river,  dis- 
guised by  unshapely  white  masses,  produce  a  re- 
tlection,  which  gives,  even  to  the  waters  of  the 
cataract,  an  apparent  tinge  of  obscurity. 

The  island  of  Orleans,  rising  from  the  river 
Saint  Lawrence,  in  some  parts  with  steep  and 
wooded  banks,  in  others  with  more  gentle  ascent, 
presents  to  the  eye  an  agreeable  object.  Its  near- 
est point  is  six  miles  to  the  north-east  of  Queljec, 
A  favourable  viev/  of  the  neighbouring  (u^untry 
is  atforded  from  its  higher  groimds,  particiiisily 
of  the  scenery  on  the  north,  Nvhich  is  divcrsiiied, 
bold,  and  extensive.  The  fall  of  Montmorenci 
discloses  itself  from  hence,  amidst  a  rich  and  c  n- 
chanting  combination  of  features.  Tl;,  central 
part  of  this  island  is  clothed  Avith  trees  :  and  the 
ground  sloping  from  it  on  cither  side,  few  emi- 
nences occur,  to  interrupt  the  view.  The  parish, 
es  of  Ange  Gardien  and  ChutCw^.u  Ilieher,  are  there 
seen  to  great  advantage.  From  hence  the  river 
la  Puce.,  on  the  opposite  coa^t,  at  the  distance  oi 
five  miles,  by  an  engaging  display  of  natural  at- 
tractions,  invites  the  attention  of  the  tra^•eller. 
It  roils  its  current,  broken  i]ito  a  refulgent  white- 
ness equalling  that  of  snow,  from  the  summit  ol 
a  lofty  hill ;  and  afterwards  conceals  itself  mid- 
way, behind  an  intervening  eminence  of  inferior 
altitude^  clothed  with  ti^es.     The  motion  of  its 


>  m: 


i'i* 


I!  ¥1 


/.■ 


'"•'•~    '  -^^-  "•  I  -  iii(piMiiMliiiWgjlii<lii>ijtii  n  I  •  • 


I '  I  \ 


'A 


m 


»i. 


«' 


100  ISLAND  OF  ORLEA?CS. 

waters  is  perceptible:  and  the  reflection  of  lighi 
arising  from  the  fall,  glistening  with  the  rays  of 
the  sun,  produces  a  powerful  contrast  with  the  deep 
verdure  of  the  forests  by  which  it  is  environed. 

At  the  lower  extremity  of  the  island,  there  arc 
situations  no  less  bold  than  picturesque.  The 
north  shore  is  interspersed  with  immense  masses 
of  detached  limestone-rock.  The  south  side  is 
clothed  ^vith  trees  to  the  borders  of  the  great  ri- 
ver ;  from  either,  are  seen  Cape  Tourment,  the 
isles  and  the  mountains  named  Les  Eboule- 
ments,  which  pierce  the  clouds  with  their  pointed 
summits.  The  soil  of  the  island  is,  in  general, 
fertile,  aftbrding  more  produce  than  is  necessary 
for  the  consumpdon  of  its  inhabitants.  Not  many 
years  ago,  it  was  for  two  successive  seasons,  visit* 
ed  by  a  scourge,  which  s\^'ept  away,  in  its  pro- 
gress, the  whole  productions  of  the  land.  The 
grasshoppers,  which  are  in  a  great  degree  multi- 
plied,  by  the  too  long  continuance  of  dry  weather, 
appeared  in  such  redundancy  of  swarms,  as  to 
consume  every  vegetable  substance,  and  almost 
totally  to  cover  the  surface  of  the  ground.  When, 
by  their  destructive  ravages,  the  island  became 
so  denuded  of  verdure,  as  no  longer  to  afford 
them  the  means  of  sustenance,  they  assembled  on 
the  Avater  in  clusters,  resembling  small  rafts  ;  and 
floated  with  the  tide  and  wind,  along  the  basin  of 
the  Sail  I  Lr.wrence,  to  Qutbec  ;  where  they  filled 
the  tiecks  itiicl  coida^e  of  the  vessels  at  anchor; 


w 


ISLAND  or   OULEA-^3.  101 

Hud  afterwards  betook  thcmst-lvcs,  thiotigh  the 
town  to  the  ra:ni).irts,  which,  hiviiiij^  stripped  oi' 
griss,  thiy  proceeded  in  separate  cohimns, 
through  the  country  to  the  southward.  A  con- 
siderable part  of  their  number  probably  perished 
in  the  voyaj^e  from  the  island  :  and  the  remainder, 
having  a  greater  extent  of  territory  over  which  to 
spread,  their  depredations  became  less  perceptible* 

Orleans  contains  five  parishes,  two  of  which^ 
Saint  Piere,  and  S-iint  Famille,  are  on  the  north 
side ;  and  three  on  the  south.  Saint  Fran^oisj 
Saint  John,  and  Saint  Lawrent.  The  number 
of  its  inhabitants  amounts  to  about  two  thousand. 

The  channels  which  separate  the  island  from 
the  continent,  are  each  about  a  league  in  breadth. 
The  banks,  on  its  western  side,  consist,  for  a  coU'* 
.siderable  way  down  the  coast,  of  black  lime-slate, 
covered  with  soil,  generated  from  the  decompo 
sition  of  that  substance,  and  the  annual  decay  ol 
vegetable  productions.  The  rocks  of  those  on 
the  eastern  extremity,  are  mixed  with  grey  quartz, 
reddish  limestone,  and  grey  limestone,  combiued 
with  pale  grains  of  sand 

From  the  parish  of  Ange  Gardien,  to  the  base 

of  Cape    Tourment,    throughout  an  extent  ol 

eighteen  miles,  the  coast  is  composed   of  fertile 

meadow  land,  varying  in  breadth,  bounded  on  the 

north  by  steep  and  lofty  banks,  from  whence  the 

groimd  rises  in  geiulc  acclivities  to  the  bases  of. 

thehilU,    By  the  reflux  of  the  tide,  a  swamp  of 

I  2 


k^--' 


t 


,f»  i) 


111' 


102  XORTH   C0A3T  OF  THE 

a  mile  in  width,  is  here  le  t  uucovered;  and  oh 
some  p  '.rts  ot  the  coast  of  Orleans,  there  are  sim. 
ilar  miukly  grounds.  In  spring  and  autumn,  these 
situations  arc  fitcjuentcd  by  great  numbers  of 
sniues,  ]:)lover,  and  uild  ducks. 

In  the  midst  of  meadows,  near  Cape  Tour- 
ment  a  narrow  hill,  about  a  mile  in  length, 
and  flat  on  its  summit,  rises  to  the  height  of  about 
a  hundred  feet.  A  large  dwelling-house,  with 
ch-ipel  and  other  buildings,  are  placed  towards 
the  eastern  extremity  ;  thither  the  ecclesiastics  of 
the  seminary  of  Quebec,  to  whom  these  lands  be- 
long, retire  in  autumn. 

Between  the  cape  and  the  adjoining  mountains, 
u  lake  is  formed,  the  height  of  whose  situation  is 
several  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Saint 
L.;  wrcnce.  The  parish  of  Saint  Joachim  is  popu- 
lous, and  the  soil  is  rich ;  being  equally  adapted 
to  pasturage,  and  to  cultivation.  It  is  separated 
from  the  parish  of  Saint  Anne,  by  a  stream  of 
considerable  magnitude,  called  /a  Grande  Jiiviere, 
©r  the  Saint  Anne. 

In  travelling  to  the  interior  settlements,  after 
having  ascended<wo  steep  and  lofty  banks,  or  ele- 
vations from  one  plain  to  another,  the  road  is  con- 
tinued for  upwards  of  four  miles  through  a  forest 
composed  of  poplar,  birch,  beech,  fir,  and  iish 
trees,  in  which  there  are  some  openings,  disclos- 
ing an  elevated  mountain. 

The  sicttlenient  of  Saint  Feriole  extends  itself  for 


east,  IS  on< 


iATNT  LAWnEN'CE.  103 

near  nine  milcsovcr  a  country  i^radually  ascending, 
whose  sujXTior  altitude  ( ontribuics  to  increase 
the  cold  o''  the  climate,  and  to  render  the  land 
less  productive.  Necessity  has  induced  an  hui;- 
dred  families  to  fix  their  abode  in  this  remote  si- 
tuation, where,  if  their  industry  be  less  copiously 
rewarded,  and  if  the  cold,  which  predominates 
longer  in  winter,  and  commences  much  earlier  in 
autumn  than  in  the  lower  parts,  sometimes  check 
the  vegetation  of  grain,  and  impede  its  advance- 
ment to  maturity,  there  is,  notwithstanding,  no 
appearance  of  indigence  among  the  inhabitants. 

On  turning  his  eyes  towards  the  country  he 
has  already  nassed,  the  traveller  is  gratified  by  a 
luxuriant  and  diversified  assemblage  of  objects, 
which,  like  a  chart,  seems  to  expand  itself  be- 
neath. After  descending  a  hill  clothed  with  trees, 
and  of  about  seven  hundred  feet  in  perpendicular 
elevation,  we  gained  the  side  of  the  river  which 
flows  through  this  settlement,  and  of  which  we 
have  already  spoken.  There  are  no  less  than  se- 
ven falls  of  this  river,  which  are  near  to  each  o- 
thcr;  and  are  formed  in  its  current  from  the 
summit,  to  the  basis  of  a  steep  and  lofty  moun- 
tain, after  having  held  its  course  for  a  distance  of 
several  miles,  along  a  ridge  of  high  lands.  The 
stream  does  not  exceed  forty  yards  in  width,  and 
the  principal  and  lower  fall,  which  is  on  the  north- 
east, is  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  high.  It  has 
formerly  flowed  through  another  channel,  in  which. 


h-i       'v 


.'       } 


j.^nttjijt*«tajB,iiiii_-, 


1 1 


^' 


<    ! 


Mi 


UH  ^OR  ril   COAST  OF   THE 

it  has  been  obstruclul  bv  rallci)  rocks,  and  als<? 
partly  by  a  dam  or  dyke,  which  the  industn  ai  d 
sagacity  of  the  beaver,  teach  it  to  form,  freciuent- 
ly  across  the  channels  of  rivers.  The  aneieut 
bed  is  plainly  discoverable  by  the  deep  ravines, 
Avorn,  at  different  stages,  on  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  by  a  valley  near  the  lower  fall. 

Although,  in  almost  the  whole  of  the  cataracts 
in  Lower  Canada,  a  certain  similarity  of  effect  is 
discoverable,  the  precipices  over  whieh  they  [jour 
iheir  waters  being  nearly  perpendicular  :  and  al- 
though these  sublime  objects  so  frequently  occur, 
that  the  impression  which  novelty  produces  on 
the  mind,  is  thereby  in  a  great  degree  weakened; 
yet  each  is  distinguishable  by  peculiar  ieatures. 
The  accumulated  waters  in  the  spring  of  the  yeiir, 
b}  abrading,  and  sweeping  down,  portions  of 
the  solid  rock,  incessantly  produce  alterations,  and 
thus  enlarge  the  channel,  or  render  it  more  deep. 

The  landscape  which  environs  this  fall,  is  grand 
and  romaiuic.  The  banks  are  rugged,  steep, 
and  w  iid,  being  covered  with  a  variety  of  trees. 
Bi  low,  large  and  irregular  masses  of  limestone 
rock,  are  piled iipon  each  other.  Not  one  half 
of  the  mountain  can  be  seen  by  the  spectator, 
when  stationed  by  the  side  of  the  river.  The 
whole  of  the  waters  of  the  fall,  are  not  immediate- 
ly received  into  the  basin  beneath  ;  but  a  hollow 
rock,  about  fifteen  feet  high  receives  a  part, 
T^hich  glides  from  thence,  in  die  form  of  a  section 


•fa  sph 

ici  of  it 

and  pres 

Thef 

er,  arc  si 

extendin 

and  from 

the  sumi 

until  it  g 

euUivadc 

Saint  An 

ter  parish 

Lawrence 

to  be  mei 

pleasing  < 

cending  ii 

dred  and 

formed  b 

summits, 

the  whiter 

the    descc 

interesting 

other  falls 

of  the  mo 

narrower  c 

vities.     A 

ing  the  ch 

ing  over  m 

different  di 

©f  this  rive 


SAINT  LAWRENCE.  105 

tfa  sj>here.  The  river,  throughout  the  remain- 
iei  of  its  course,  is  solitary,  wild,  and  broken  ; 
and  presents  other  scenes  worthy  of  observation. 
The  parishes  of  Saint  Anne  and  Chateau  Rich- 
er, arc  situated  imder  a  bank  varying  in  hei}^Iit, 
extending  from  Saint  Joachim  to  Ange  Gardien, 
and  from  thence  to  the  fall  of  Monimorenci.  At 
the  summit  of  this  bank,  the  land  rises  by  degrees, 
until  it  gains  the  mountains,  and  is  in  a  state  of 
eultiviition.  A  stream,  called  Dog  river,  divides 
Saint  Anne  from  Chateau  Richer  :  and  in  the  lat- 
ter parish  the  small  river  La  Puce  joins  the  Saint 
Lawrence.  The  former  would  scarcely  deserve 
to  be  mentioned,  if  it  were  not  for  the  curious  and 
pleasing  objects,  which  disclose  themselves  in  as- 
cending its  course.  The  lower  fall  is  one  hun- 
dred and  twelve  feet  in  height :  and  its  banks^ 
formed  by  elevated  acclivities,  wooded  to  their 
summits,  spread  around  a  solemn  gloom,  whick 
the  whiteness,  the  movements,  and  the  noise  of 
the  descending  waters,  contribute  to  render 
interesting  and  attractive.  Besides  the  last,  two 
other  falls  are  formed  by  the  higher  stages 
of  the  mountain,  where  the  river,  confined  in 
narrower  compass,  glides  over  less  steep  decli- 
vities. At  the  distance  of  two  miles,  in  ascend- 
ing the  channel,  another  cataract  appears,  pour- 
ing over  masses  of  limestone  rock,  and  assummg 
different  directions  in  its  descent.  The  environs 
©f  this  river  display,  in  miniature,  a  sutccbsion  oT 


■vi< 


; 


f  ;•, 


'■  h>-  •III 


106  NORTH   COAST  OF  THE 

romantic  views  'i'lie  hanks  near  its  mouth,  arc 
almost  perpendicular,  a.id  partly  dciuded  of  veyje- 
tation,  bcinu'  composed  of  a  dark  iime-slate-likc 
suljstance,  which  is  in  a  state  of  continual  decaj . 

In  vain  would  the  labours  of  Mi  endeavour  to 
produce  in  the  gardens  of  palaces,  beauties,  which 
tlie  hand  of  nature  scatters  in  the  midst  of  unfre- 
quented wilds.  The  river,  from  about  one- fourth 
of  the  height  of  the  mountain,  discloses  itself  to 
the  contemplation  of  the  spectator ;  and  delights 
his  eye  with  varied  masses  of  shining  foam,  which, 
suddenly  issuing  from  a  deep  ravine  hollowed  out 
by  the  waters,  glide  down  the  almost  perpendicu- 
lar  rock,  and  form  a  splendid  curtain,  which  iosug 
itself  amid  the  foliage  of  surrounding  woods. 
Such  is  the  scene  which  the  fall  of  La  Puce  t  x- 
hibits,  when  viewed  from  the  summit  of  a  buak 
on  the  eastern  side  of  the  river. 

The  settlement  of  Chateau  Richer,  derives  Its 
name  from  the  ruins  of  an  edifice  situated  on  a  small 
rocky  point,  on  the  border^  of '.he  Saint  Lawrence. 
It  was  a  Franciscan  monastery,  \vhen  the  arm}  un- 
der General  Wolfe  encamped  on  the  eastern  bjnk 
of  the  Montmorcnci.  As  the  monks  used  theii 
influence  amWg  the  inhabitants  in  their  vicinity;  to 
impede  a  supply  of  provisions  for  the  English  ar- 
my,  it  was  deemed  necessary  to  send  thither  a  dc 
tachment  to  make  thcni  jjrisoncrs.  They  had  so 
fortified  tb.cmselves  within  tlicir  mansion,  tiiat 
iicld  pieces  vere  recj[uired  to  compel  them  to  i: 


f\t 


'^^■ 


nouth,  arc 
id  of  veyje- 
e-slate-likc 
lual  decay, 
idtavour  to 
ities,  which 
bt  of  uiitVc- 
one- fourth 
>es  itself  to 
lid  dcliirbts 
)atTi,  which, 
ollowed  out 
perpendicu- 
which  iobus 
ing  woods, 
va  Puce  t  X- 
t  of  a  buiik 


SAINT  lAWRENCE.  107 

surrender.  The  house  w as  ckstrovcd  hv  fu-e  : 
and  nothing  now  remains,  except  a  part  ol  tlie 
walls,  and  the  ruins  of  an  adjoinnig  tow  er,  w  hich 
was  formerly  a  wind-mill,  by  an  inscription  a- 
hove  the  door,  it  appears  to  have  been  luiilt  one 
hundred  and  twelve  years  ago.  The  puj'ish  clnirch 
is  placed  on  a  bank,  immediately  behind  thv  clia- 
teau,  and  has  two  spires.  The  ruins  alrcuxl}  de- 
scribed, the  great  river,  the  island  of  Oiic  mis, 
the  point  of  Ange  Gardien,  and  Cape  Diuniond 
in  the  distance,  compose  an  agreeiible  scciic. 

Toward  the  east,  a  yet  happier  combination 
of  objects  presents  itself.  On  the  ielt,  are  the 
ruins  of  the  monaster},  the  church,  banks  cloth- 
ed with  foliage,  and  the  lower  grounds  studded 
with  white  cottages ;  over  which  Cape  'Iciur- 
ment,  and  the  chain  oi  mountains  whose  tcrmi- 
nution  it  forms,  tower  with  exalted  majesty. 

The  rocks  which  in  part  compose  the  moun- 
tains, consist  of  a  quartz,  of  the  colour  ol  amber^ 
mixed  with  a  black,  small-grained  glimmer, 
black  horn  stone,  and  a  few  minute  grair.s  of 
brown  spar.  The  stone  is  generally  comj)act, 
iind  resists  the  operation  of  fire.  Some  ot  these 
rocks  are  a  mixture  of  white  quartz  and  black 
ghnimer,  with  grains  of  brown  spar. 

Lake  Saint  Charles  is  supi>l^ed  by  the  river  of 
the  same  name;  and  diffuses  }':seli  over  an  extent 
ot  tlut  lands,  bounded  by  mountains,  about  lour- 
teeii  nines  lo  ti)e  northward  of  Quebec.     In  go- 


^^.. 


I'n 


irv 


I  I 


il    i 


n 


m' 


108  LAKE   SAINT  C&AJMES. 

iiig  thither,  the  road  parses  over  a  mountaijii 
from  v\  litnce  is  opeiicd  an  extensive  view  oi  the 
gvcux  rivtraiid  its  banks. 

On  arriving  at  the  vicinity  of  the  Jake,  the  spec- 
tator is  delighted  by  the  beauty  and  picturesque 
"wildness  ot  its  banks.  It  is,  around  sniall  col. 
lections  of  water  like  this,  that  nature  is  display- 
cd  to  the  highest  advaiitage.  '1  he  extent  ot  the 
lake  is  about tive  miles:  and  it  is  almost  divided 
into  two,  by  a  neck  ol  land,  vihich  iorms  a  nar- 
TOW  passage,  nearly  at  the  center.  Trees  grow 
in<mediately  on  the  borders  of  the  water,  Vihick 
is  indented  by  several  points  advancing  into  it, 
and  torming  little  bays.  The  lofty  hills  which 
suddenly  rise  towards  the  north,  in  shapes,  sin* 
gular  and  diversified,  are  overlooked  by  moun- 
tains  which  exalt  beyond  them,  their  more  dis. 
tant  summits. 

The  effect  produced  by  clouds,  is  here  solemn 
and  sublime,  particularly  during  thunder  storms, 
when  they  float  in  rugged  masses,  around  the  tops 
of  the  hills,  whose  caverns,  and  defiles,  re-echo  to 
the  trembling  forests,  the  hoarse  and  awful  roar. 

About  three  miles  from  the  lake,  in  a  valley 
amid  precipitous  mountains,  a  settlement  was  be- 
gun a  few  years  ago.  Its  situation  is  highly  ro* 
mantic,  beir.g  watered  by  several  streams,  and 
likewise  by  the  Saint  Charles,  whose  banks, 
tliHiughout  its  w Hiding  course,  to  the  lake,  are 
adorned  with  a  variety  of  scenery. 


n 


inU   SAINT  XAWRJEN.CJi. 


10.9 


mountain^ 

ew   ot  the 

,thc  spec- 
ictuiesque 
small  col- 
is  display- 
tent  ot  the 
jst  divided 
rms  a  ijar- 
rees   grow 
iter,  Vihk\\ 
ig  into   !t, 
hills  winch 
shapes,  sin. 
.  by  moun- 
more  dis. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


I/V 


€ountry  to  the  westward  of  ^lebec—^Lake  Calvicre-— 
the  Jacques  Cartier— 'romantic  scenery  which  it  cits- 
plays — town  oy  Three  Rivers — Lake  Saint  Peter — 
town  of  William  Henry — river  Chambly — Inland  of 
Montreal — religious  orders^  and  their  -establiah- 
ments — view  from  the  summit  oj  the  mountains — 
Indian  village  of  the  Sauk  Saint  Louis — La  Chine— ^ 
Lake  Saint  Louis— <ascades~^rapids  of  the  cedars — 
of  the  Coteau  Du  Lac-— 'Lake  Saint  Francis — cas- 
£ades  of  the  Long  Sault— multitude  of  isles, 

IN  ascending  the  Saint  Lawrence  from  Que- 
hec  to  Montreal,  the  country  on  either  side  that 
river,  becomes  less  diversified,  but  more  rich  in 
soil,  and  more  improved  in  cultivation,  as  tlie  tra- 
veller advances.  The  banks,  which  are  abrupt 
and  precipitous,  open  into  several  little  bays,  inter- 
mixed with  rocks,  woods,  and  settlements.  On 
the  ilorth  side,  at  the  distance  of  two  miles  from 
the  town,  is  Wolfe's  Cove,  the  place  at  which  the 
celebrated  General  of  that  name  disembarked  his 
army,  previous  to  the  battle  on  the  heights  of  A- 
braham.  On  the  summit  of  the  western  bank  of 
this  little  bay,  stands  a  handsome  house,  built  by 
General  Powell,  whose  situation,  together  with 
the  shady  walks  by  which  it  is  surroimded,  rert- 
dtrs  it  a  pleasing  retreat. 

K 


%, 


X^ 


■^/r 


:H' 


1  10  BANKS  OF   THE 

From  hence  to  Cape  Rouge,  the  scenery,  on 
account  of  its  beauty  and  variety,  attnicts  tlic  at- 
tention of  tJie  passenger.  At  Siilery,  a  league 
from  Quebec,  on  the  north  shore,  are  the  ruins 
of  an  establishment,  which  was  begun  in  1637. 
Intended  as  a  religious  institution  for  the  conver- 
sion  and  instruction  of  natives  of  the  country,  it 
Avas  at  one  time  inhabited  by  twelve  French  fa- 
milies. The  buildings  are  placed  upon  level 
ground,  sheltered,  by  steep  banks,  and  close  by 
the  borders  of  the  river.  They  now  consist  only 
of  two  old  stone-houses,  fallen  to  decay,  and  of 
the  remains  of  a  small  chapel.*  In  this  vicinity, 
the  Algonquins  once  had  a  village.  Several  of 
their  tumuli,  or  burying-places,  are  still  discover- 
able in  the  woods  :  and  hieroglyphics  cut  on  the 
trees,  remain  in  some  situations,  yet  uneffaced. 

Cape  Rouge  is  a  lofty  bank,  suddenly  declining 
to  a  valley,  through  which  a  small  river,  the  dis- 
charge of  a  lake,  situated  among  the  mountains 
on  the  north,  runs  into  the  Saint  Lawrence.  A 
slate-stone,  of  a  reddish  colour,  easily  mouldering 
into  thin  shivers,  is  found  at  the  surface,  on  the 
suuimit  of  the  bank.  A  part  of  the  borders  of 
the  river  Chaudiere,  on  the  opposite  coast,  con- 
bists  of  the  same  substance.  " 

The  distance  from  Quebec  to  this  cape,   is 

cio^ln  n>iies.  and,  towards  the  north,  a  btn;]     pa- 

■ — r~ — ' • — ■       — •' 

•  Tliechpel  has  of  Lte  been  repalied  amlfitved  np  ii  ,  u  malt- 

Jiouse,  and  some  of  the  other  buildings  have  been  converted  into  p 

brewerj-. 


rallel  to  t 
vation,  e 
the  pro 
these  ac( 
level,  am 
the  nortl 
a!x)und  i 
of  a  riv( 
tiiie,  tha' 
Liiwrenc 
of  Saint 
their  con 
rishes  of 
at  the  p! 
itself  int< 

Thelo 
mentionc 
by  a  disc 
to  the  ey 
coast,  at 
cholas,  a 
objects  ii 
ses  to  th( 
is  clothec 
foaming 
turns,  wi 
considera 
at  no  grt 
seen  u])Oi 

At  Po 


Mm 


.\^r'^':  \  y-f' 


nery,  ou 
ts  tlie  at- 
a   league 
the  ruins 
in  1637. 
i  conver- 
)untry,  it 
rench  fa- 
)on  level 
close  by 
isist  only 
%   and  of 
i  vicinity, 
ieveral  of 
discover- 
ut  on  the 
effaced, 
declining 
,  the  dis- 
lountains 
nice.     A 
3uldering 
J,  on  the 
orders  of 
)ast,  con- 
cape,   is 
httii]     pa- 

p  ii  *  u  malt- 
verted  into  o 


SAINT  LAWRENCE.  Ill 

rallclto  that  on  the  great  river,  but  of  inferior  ele- 
vation, extends  throughout  that  space,  and  join^ 
the  promontory.  The  mean  interval  between 
diese  acclivities,  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  TIic 
level,  and  in  some  situations,  swampy  lands,  on 
the  north  of  this  eminence,  which  in  many  places 
a!x)und  in  stones,  apparently  formed  in  the  bed 
of  a  river,  afford  probable  grounds  for  conjec- 
ture, that  a  portion  of  the  waters  of  the  Saint 
Lawrence,  formerly  flowed  between  the  heights 
of  Saint  Augustin  and  Cape  Rouge,  directing 
their  course  along  the  valley,  insulating  the  pa- 
rishes oi  Quebec  and  Saint  Foix^  and  re-uniting 
at  the  place  where  tlx:  Saint  Charles  empties 
itself  into  the  basin. 

The.  low  space  between  the  high  grounds  novv 
mentioned,  is  about  half  a  mile  in  !)readdi;  and, 
by  a  disclosure  of  the  distant  mountains,  presents 
to  the  eye  an  agreeable  variety.  On  the  opposite 
coast,  at  the  mouth  of  the  small  river  Saint  Ni- 
cholas,  a  charming  combination  of  picturesque 
objects  is  afforded.  A  part  of  the  bank  here  ri- 
ses to  the  height  of  about  five  hundred  feet,  and 
is  clothed  with  trees.  The  little  river  rolls  with 
foaming  s\viftness  into  the  Saint  Lawrence,  and 
turns,  with  a  portion  of  its  uaters,  corn  mills  of 
considerable  extent.  Two  beautiful  waterfalls, 
at  no  great  distance  from  each  other,  are  to  l^c 
seen  uj)on  this  river. 

At  Point  Levi,  and  iiivc^vise  at  the  htclicmin. 


1 


II 


li)    I 


k;-I.B!i**j,"  •■.?fc4-. 


f  i^i  f 


.'.< 


>x 


m 


\\2  BANKS  OF  THE 

on  the  south  sicleof  iht  great  river»  there  are  com 
mills  upon  an  ei.larged  scale,  which  belong  to  tlic 
same  proprietor,  as  those  of  Saint  Nicholas. 

Lake  Calvierc,  on  the  north  shore,  is  a  collec- 
tion of  water,  about  two  miles  in  length,  whose 
borders  are  diversified  by  woods  and  cultivattxl 
fields.  Viewed  from  the  river,  the  church  and 
mill  of  St.  Augustin,  placed  beneath  steep  banks^ 
richly  wooded,  compose  a  pleasing  scene. 

Pointe  mix  Trembles^  a  village  of  some  extent, 
Bcvcn  leagues  from  Quebec,  is  situated  under  a 
bank,  from  whence  a  quantity  of  meadow  land 
spreads  down  to  the  coast.  It  contains  a  small 
convent  of  nuns,  and  a  iieat  church. 

Through  a  contracted  vtilley  formed  by  acclivi. 
ties  steep  and  abrupt,  the  Jacques  Cartier  sweeps 
with  impetuosity,  over  a  rocky  and  interrupted  bed, 
its  broken  and  sonorous  current.  The  distance 
thither  from  Quebec,  is  thirty  miles.  The  navi- 
gator  who  first  explored  the  Saint  Lawrence,  as 
for  as  Montreal,  here  wintered  in  1536  :  and  from 
this  occurrence,  his  name  has  been  given  to  the 
stream.  The  breadth  of  its  mouth  is  about  three 
hundred  yards  :  and  contiguous  to  it,  there  are  ex- 
tensive corn  mills,  worked  by  water  conveyed 
from  a  considerable  distance,  along  an  aqueduct, 
under  which  the  road  to  the  ferry  passes.  The 
ferrymen  traverse  the  boats  from  one  side  to  the 
other,  by  a  strong  rope  fixed  to  posts,  on  account 
of  the  rapidity  of  the  waters.     On  the  summit  of 


h 


^.V' 


SAIKT  LAWRENCE.  113 

(he  hill,  at  the  western  side  of  the  ferry,  are  tfi'e 
remains  of  an  earthen  redoubt,  which  was  con- 
structed by  the  French  in  1760.  Here,  as  well 
as  higher  up  the  course  of  the  river,  an  uncom- 
mr)!j  wildness  is  displayed :  and  the  stream  is  fre- 
quently broken  into  cascades,  particularly  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  new  bridge,  where  its  channel  is 
confined  by  rugged  rocks,  some  of  which  arc 
excavated  in  a  singular  manner,  by  the  incessant 
operation  of  the  furious  torrent.  During  the  sum- 
mer months,  salmon  are  here  caught  in  abun- 
dance. 

The  church  of  Cape  Sante  with  the  opposite 
coast,  which  assumes  a  singular  shape,  together 
with  the  point  of  Dechambault,  and  the  vast  sheet 
of  water  intervening,  exhibit  a  pleasing  combina- 
tion of  distant  objects.  At  the  latter  situation, 
the  principal  bed  of  the  Saint  Lawrence  is  con- 
fined to  a  narrow,  winding,  and  intricate  course^ 
which,  at  the  reflux  of  the  tide,  has  a  considera- 
ble descent.  At  high  water,  much  caution  is  re- 
quired, in  conducting  through  it,  a  vessel  of  bur- 
den, as  the  channel  on  cither  side  is  shallow,  and 
abounds  with  concealed  rocks. 

The  Saint  Anne  is  of  considerable  width,  but 
of  no  great  depth  :  and  its  current  is  scarcely  per- 
ceptible, at  the  place  where  it  is  crossed  by  tra-' 
vellers.  The  want  of  bridges  over  most  of  these 
streams,  is  a  great  inconvenience,  their  passage 

ill  the  ^ring  and  at  the  commencement  of  win^ 

s  2 


i\ 


I 


iiJ  -i. 


t 


(  I 


[f  ;  < 


1^ 


I 


i  ' 


'  .11! if;' 


114  TOWN   01 

ter,  being  sometimes  attended  with  peril,  from  tlit 
quiuiutics  of  loose  and  floating  ice. 

The  Battiscan  contains  not  so  much  water  as 
the  last,  but  is  more  deep  and  rapid.  An  iron 
foundry  has,  within  these  few  years,  been  esta- 
blished  on  its  banks. 

Tiie  tonn  of  Three  Rivers  is  situated  upon  a 
point  of  land,  near  the  confluence  with  the  Saint 
Lawrence,  of  the  stream  from  which  it  derives 
its  name.  It  extends  about  three  quarters  of  a 
mile,  along  the  north  bank  of  the  former.  The 
surrounding  country  is  flat :  and  its  soil  is  com- 
posed  of  sand,  mixed  with  black  mould.  In  the 
moutli  of  the  stream,  there  are  two  islands,  which 
divide  it  into  three  branches.  On  ascending  its 
course,  the  borders  become  wild  and  picturesque. 
The  town  was  indebted  for  its  original  establish- 
ment  to  the  profits  arising  from  the  commerce 
for  peltry,  w^hich,  in  the  infancy  of  the  colony, 
was  carried  on  by  the  natives,  through  the  course 
of  this  river,  which  flows  from  the  north-east,  for 
a  distance  of  three  hundred  miles.  Thither,  va- 
rious tribes  of  these  savages,  descended  from  the 
vicinity  of  Hudson's  bay,  and  the  country  inter, 
vening  between  tliat  and  the  Saint  Lawrence. 

Attracted  by  the  advantages  which  the  agreea- 
ble situation  of  the  place,  and  the  rendezvous  for 
traffic,  presented,  several  French  families  here 
established  tliemselves.  The  proximity  of  the  h'o- 
quois,  a  nution  which  cherished  an  irreconcilea* 


..«.-..;}. 


■  *Ji. 


-JLHKE.E    RIVERa. 


113 


ble  hostility  to  the  French,  suj^gested  the  necessi- 
ty of  constructing  a  fort:  and  the  dihtiict  of 
Three  Rivers  became,  a,t  length,  a  separate  go- 
vernment. After  a  lapse  of  some  }'ears,  the  na- 
tives who  traded  to  this  place,  harassed  and  ex- 
posed to  continual  danger,  from  the  frequent  ir- 
ruptions of  that  warlike  nation,  discontinued  their 
accustomed  visits. 

The  town  contains  a  convent  of  Ursulines,  to 
which  is  adjoined  a  parochial  church,  and  an  hos- 
pital. It  was  founded  in  1677  by  M.  de  Saint 
Vallier,  bishop  of  Quebec,  for  the  education  of 
young  women,  and  as  an  asylum  for  the  poor 
and  sick.  A  superior  and  eighteen  nuns  now 
possess  it  i  and  discharge  the  functions  of  this 
humane  institution. 

A  monastery  of  Recollets  also  fonned  one  of 
the  religious  edifices  of  this  place,  but  that  order 
has  been  for  some  time  extinct 

As  there  are  several  protestant  inhabitants  in 
the  town,  it  is  the  residence  of  a  rector :  and  di- 
vine service  is  regularly  performed  agreeably  to 
the  rites  of  the  established  church  of  England. 

On  the  banks  of  the  river  already  mentioned, 
and  about  nine  miles  up  its  course,  an  iron  foun- 
dry, which  was  first  worked  in  1737,  is  situated. 
The  manufacture  of  ore  into  cast,  as  well  as  ham- 
mered iron,  is  here  carried  on  to  a  considerable 
extent.  The  works,  and  the  soil  in  which  the 
ore  is  found,  are  the  property  of  government « 


•■ 


■  rfcli>«irt'r'itrVEiatf^ 


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■  V 


111  I.* 


I'  ^ 


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:h  f  i 


1^6  LAKE    SAInV    PL<*K. 

and  they  arc  rented  bv  a  company  at  Quebec,  or? 
Itase,  at  the  rate  of,  eight  hundred  pounds  pci 
annum.  The  ore  lies  in  horizontal  strata,  aud 
near  the  surface.  It  is  composed  of  masses,  ca- 
sil)  detached  from  each  otl^jr,  perforated,  and 
the  holes  filled  with  ochre.  It  possesses  softness, 
aiid  friability  :  and  for  promoting  its  iusion,  a 
grey  limestone,  found  in  its  vicinity,  is  used. 
The  hammered  iron  is  soft,  pliable,  and  tenacious ; 
and  has  the  quality  of  being  but  little  subject  to 
the  influence  of  rust.  The  latter  projxTty  is 
probably  derived  from  the  materials  employed  in 
its  fusion.  For  this  purpose,  ^vood  only  is  appli- 
ed, which  is  highly  preferable  to  mineral  coal. 

Lake  Saint  Peter  is  formed  by  an  expansion 
of  the  w^aters  of  the  Saint  Lawrence,  to  the  breadth 
of  from  fifteen  to  twenty  miles :  and  its  length  is 
twenty-one  miles.  It  is  in  general,  of  small 
depth ,  many  parts  of  the  channel  being  not  more 
than  ten  or  eleven  feet  deep  :  and  it  sometimes 
occurs,  that  large  vessels  here  run  aground.  The 
tide  scarcely  extends  as-  far  up  as  the  town  of 
Three  Rivers,  which  is  near  two  leagues  iarther 
down  than  the  lake  :  and  tlie  current  in  the  latter 
is  extremely  faint  Several  sifSidl  rivers  here  dis- 
charge their  waters ;  among  which  are  the  Ma- 
chiche,  Du  Loup,  and  MasquenongCy  on  tlie 
north,  and  the  Nicolet  and  Saint  Francis,  on  the 
south.  On  the  banks  of  tlie  latter,  an  Indian  vil- 
laj^eof  the  same  name,  is  situated,  peopled  by  part 


IIVER    CHAMBLT.  117' 

of  the  Abinaquis  tribe,  among  whom  amission, 
ary  and  an  interpreter  reside.  » 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  lake,  a  variety  of  small 
islands  is  interspersed  ;  some  of  which  are  partly 
cleared  of  their  woods,  and  afford  rich  pasturage 
for  cattle.  In  the  spring  and  autumn,  they  a- 
bound  in  wild  fowl,  particularly  in  ducks.  These 
arc  the  only  islands  that  occur  in  the  channel  of 
the  great  river,  from  Orleans,  to  this  situation,  a 
distance  of  about  a  hundred  and  seventeen  miles. 
From  hence  to  lake  Ontario,  it  is  frequently  vari- 
ed by  clusters  of  islands,  some  of  which  are  of 
great  beauty  and  fertility. 

The  town  of  William  Henry,  or  Sorel,  in  lati- 
tude  45^  55',  longitude  73°  22',  is  agreeably  si- 
tuated at  the  confluence  of  the  Sorel  or  Chambly 
river,  with  the  Saint  Lawrence,  and  contains  a 
protestant  and  a  Roman  catholic  church.  The 
Sorel  takes  its  rise  from  lake  Champlain  ;  and, 
directing  its  course  towards  the  north,  runs 
through  a  fertile  and  pleasant  country,  where  its 
borders  are  adorned  by  several  valuable  and  pro- 
ductive farms.  On  the  site  of  the  town,  a  fort 
was  constructed  in  1665,  by  M.  de  Tracy,  vice- 
roy of  New  France,  as  a  defence  against  the  irrup- 
tion of  the  Iroquois.  M.  de  Sorel,  a  captain,  su- 
perintended its  execution  :  and  from  him  thisr 
part  of  the  river  received  its  name.  Between  lake 
Champlain,  and  the  junction  of  this  stream  with 
fhe  Saint  Lawrence,  there  are  two  forts  situated 


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118  HIV£R  CHAMBLY. 

on  its  banks,  the  one  called  Saint  John,  compo- 
scd  of  cedar  pickets  and  earth,  die  oduT,  Cham- 
bly,  built  of  stone  in  a  quadrangular  form,  and 
having  Uic  appe:u'ancc  of  a  castle.  It  is  die  only 
edifice  in  North  America,  which  has  any  rcscm. 
blanc-e  to  that  ancient  mode  of  structure.  Saint 
John  is  a  frontier  garrison  :  and  a  comixniy  of  in- 
fantry, and  some  ;irtillery,  arc  generally  stationed 
in  it.  As  the  channel  of  intercourse  httwecii 
Montreal  and  llic  United  States  of  America,  is 
principally  through  this  post,  a  collector,  and 
comptroller  of  the  customs,  aluays  reside  here. 
The  country  around  Chambly,  exhibits  a  roman. 
tic  aspect.  The  river,  in  this  part  shallow,  broken 
and  diffused,  rushes  down  a  decHvity  interrupted 
by  rocks.  An  extensive  and  elevated  mountiiin, 
of  a  pleasing  shape,  rears  itself  aloft,  in  the  midst 
of  level  lands ;  and  confines,  between  its  conical 
summits  a  lake  of  pure  \\'atcr.  In  the  months  of 
June  and  July,  great  quantities  of  timber  and 
boards  formed  into  rafts,  frequently  of  two  or  three 
hundred  feet  in  length,  are  floated  doM'n  this  ri- 
ver,  from  the  borders  of  lake  Champlain.  These 
materials  are  used  in  ship-building  ;  and  are  also 
exported  to  England. 

Berdiier,  a  settlement  on  the  north  banks   ol" 
the  great  river,  is  extensive,  populous,  and  rich 
in  soil.     The   numerous  islands,   which  afibrd  S 
pasturage   and  shade   in  summer  to  horses  and  "" 
cattle,  contribute  much  to  the  beauty  of  the  situ 


iition.  So 
size ;  and  < 
country  is 
surface  :  t 
for  tlie  abs 
The  vill 
south  banl 
ascending, 
is  placed  o 
some  chu 
this  quartc 
ges  are  m 
this  part  o 
tlicy  are  o^ 
elevated  si 
venieiice, ; 
seasons,  tl 
bv  enormi 

m 

struction 
accumula 
astonishin 
j)ermost, 
acting  up 
for  a  com 
flown,  or 
intervenir 
well  as  bz 
A  part: 
rank,  call 
grows  up 


'-•*siC5 


,  -"i  -i.  .tm^  ^  • 


THE    SAINT    LAWRtNCE.  lit) 

.itioru     Some  ol"  tlicsc  islancUarc  of  considerul)lc 
size;  and  contain  a  number  of  iuhuliiiaiits.     The 
country  is  here  not  diversified  hy  inecjiialities  of 
surface  :   but  the  bount}  of  the  boii  eompeubatcs 
for  the  absence  of  grandeur  in  scenery. 

The  village  of  Vcrcheres  presents  itself  on  the 
south  bank  :  and  about  two  leagues  farther,  in 
ascending,  another  settlement,  named  V.trcnres, 
is  placed  on  a  point  of  l.ind  ;  and  contains  a  hand- 
some church  with  two  spires.  The  country  in 
this  quarter,  increases  m  population  :  and  villa- 
ges are  more  frecpient.  Some  of  the  islands  in 
this  part  of  the  river  are  so  flat,  that  in  the  spring 
tlicy  are  oveiflowed  by  the  waters.  Those  whose 
elevated  situation  exempts  tlicm  from  this  incon- 
venience, are  cultivated  and  inhabited.  In  some 
seasons,  the  buildings  are  subject  to  be  injured 
bv  enormous  masses  of  ice,  which  meet  with  ob- 
struction  in  their  jxissage.  They  then  become 
accumulated,  one  upon  another,  sometimes  to  an 
astonishing  lieight :  and  the  pieces  which  are  up- 
jx^rmost,  inapelled  by  the  impetus  of  the  current 
acting  upon  those  in  their  rear,  are  thus  carried 
for  a  considerable  way  upon  the  islands,  bearing 
down,  or  cutting  asunder  in  their  progress,  every 
intervening  object.  In  this  manner,  houses  as 
well  as  barns,  have  been  destroyed. 

A  particular  species  of  grass,  which  is  long  and 
rank,  called  by  the  Canadians,  /'  herhe  an  lien^ 
grows  upon  some  of  the  islands.     This  forms  a 


If 


A^- 


\       I 


\\  m 


m 


\'i 


;m 


k' 


120  afONTREAL. 

very  durable  covering  for  stables  and  barns :  ani 
a  roof  composed  of  it,  will  last  for  many  years, 
"without  the  want  of  repair.  At  a  few  miles  dis- 
tance from  Varennes,  near  a  hill  which  rises  in  the 
inid«it  of  plains,  the  village  of  Boucherville  is  si- 
tuated. It  is  inhabited  by  people  of  the  most  an- 
cient families  in  the  country,  whose  means  arc  not 
affluent,  but  who  in  tliis  retreat,  enjoy  among 
themselves  an  agreeable  society. 

On  tlie  north  side  of  the  Saint  Lawrence,  the 
road  to  Montreal  is  interrupted  by  a  branch  of  the 
Outaouais,  or  grand  river,  which  is  about  a  mile 
in  width  between  Repentigni,  and  the  point  of 
the  island.*  It  encompasses  with  its  waters  the 
isles  de  Jesus,  Perrot,  and  Bissart ;  and  washes 
the  northern  coast  of  the  island  of  Montreal,  which 
is  surrounded  by  it,  and  the  Saint  Lav\Teiice.  The 
first  of  these  isles  was  formerly  named  Montmag- 
ny,  after  one  of  the  governors  of  the  province  : 
but  on  its  being  conceded  to  the  Jesuits,  it  receiv- 
ed its  present  appellation.  From  that  order,  it 
passed  to  the  members  of  the  seminary,  by  whom 
it  was  first  settled.  The  channel  which  separates 
the  islands,  is  denominated /a  riviere  des  Prairies- 

being  on  either  side,  bordered  by  meadows. 

«  '  ■ 

*  A  wooden  bridge,  on  tlie  model  of  that  which  was  built  over  tlie 
Rhine  at  Schauffhausen,  has  lately  been  constructed  from  Repen- 
tigni to  an  isle  in  the  channel :  antl  another  bridge  of  the  same  des- 
cription  is  now  erecting,  to  form  a  communication  between  the 
other  side  of  tlmt  blc,  and  the  north-east  end  of  tbe  island  of  Monl- 
real. 


The  St 
becomes 
place  is 
Becolkt, 
perished- 
Montrea 
sion  foi' 
afterwan 
Mountai 

The 

intersper 

there  ap] 

head  of 

called  af 

Somewl 

Perrot,  c 

Montrei 

in  diame 

of  the  T 

this  lake 

an  ex  ten 

was,  foi 

colony  1 

The 

miles,  -Ci 

cumfen 

to  owe 

wh(i,  ni 

b\   d(.  p 

to  aike 


MONTREAL.  121 

The  stream,  towards  the  centre  of  the  island 
becomes  rapid  and  broken  :  and  this  particular 
place  is  distinguished  by  the  name  of  Sault  au 
Becoliet,  a  member  of  that  fraternity  having  there 
perished.  The  ecclesiastics  of  the  seminary  of 
Montreal,  had  formerly,  in  this  vicinity,  a  mis- 
sion for  the  conversion  of  the  natives  :  but  they 
afterwards  removed  it  to  the  Lake  of  the  T\;'o 
Mountains. 

The  third  branch  of  the  river  on  the  north,  is 
interspersed  with  such  a  number  of  isles,  that 
there  appears  as  much  land  as  water.  At  the 
head  of  the  isle  Jesus,  is  the  small  island  Bizart^ 
called  after  a  Swiss  officer,  to  whom  it  belonged. 
Somewhat  higher,  towards  the  south,  stands  isle 
Perrot,  deriving  its  name  from  the  first  governor  of 
Montreal  It  is  almost  round  ;  and  is  six  miles 
in  diameter  The  former  isle  terminates  tlie  lake 
of  the  Two  Mountains :  and  the  latter  separates 
this  lake  from  that  of  Saint  Louis,  which  is  only 
an  extension  of  the  river  Saint  Lawrence;  and. 
was,  for  a  series  of  years,  the  limit  of  the  French 
colony  towards  the  west. 

The  length  of  the  island  of  Montreal  is  thirty 
miles,  and  its  mean  breadth  about  seven,  its  cir- 
cumference being  sevent}  miles.  It  may  be  said 
to  o'AC  its  original  settlement  to  the  Abbe  Quttus, 
who,  HI  1657,  arrived  from  ^  ranee,  accom]).4.ned 
by  deputies  of  the  se.ni'.iiry  oi  Saint  Sulpicius, 
to  uike  possession  of  this  spot,  and  here  to  fouwl 

L 


1  : 


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till 


h  V  ] 


1/ 


« '    f 


11 


Mi 


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122  MONTREAL. 

a  seminary.  The  other  inhabitants  of  the  colony 
were  gratified  to  find,  that  a  body  of  men  bo  res- 
pectable, had  undertaken  to  clear,  and  settle  an 
island,  the  efforts  of  whose  first  possessors,  had 
hitherto  been  too  languid.  The  seignorial  rights 
of  that  fertile  and  valuable  tract  of  territory,  are 
still  vested  in  the  representatives  of  the  order  of 
Saint  Sulpicius,  which  in  France,  was  swept  away 
in  the  revolutionary  torrent. 

The  city  of  Montreal,  in  latitude  45«»  33',  lon- 
gitude 73^  37',  is  placed  on  the  south  side  of  the 
island  of  the  same  name,  whose  banks  are  here 
from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  high,  from  tlie  level  of  the 
water.  It  is  built  in  the  form  of  a  pamllelogram, 
extending  from  north  to  south.  A  deep  and  ra- 
pid current  flows  between  the  shore  and  the  island 
of  Saint  Helen.  A  strong  north-east  whid  is 
therefore  necessary,  to  carry  vessels  up  to  the 
town  :  and  when  that  is  wanting,  they  remain  at 
anchor,  at  tlie  lower  end  of  tlie  stream.  This  in- 
convenience might  have  been  obviated,  had  the 
city  been  built  about  a  mile  below  its  present  site, 
at  a  place  called  the  Cross.  The  original  found- 
ers were  enjoined  by  the  government  of  France, 
to  make  choice  of  a  situation  as  high  up  the  river, 
as  large  vessels  could  be  navigated :  and  it  appears 
that  the  injunction  was  literally  obeyed. 

'1  he  streets  are  airy,  and  regularly  disposed, 
one  of  them  extending  nearly  parallel  to  the  river, 
through  the  whole  length  of  the  place.     They  are 


MONTREAL.  123 

q{'  sufficient  width,  being  intersected  at  right  an- 
gles, by  several  smaller  streets,  wiiich  descend 
from  west  to  east.  The  upper  street  is  divided 
into  two,  by  the  Roman  Catholic  church,  adjoin- 
ing to  which,  there  is  a  large  open  square,  called 
the  Place  d'Armes, 

The  habitations  of  the  principal  merchants  are 
neat  and  commodious :  and  their  storehouses 
ni'e  spacious,  and  secured  against  risque  from 
fires.  They  arc  covered  with  sheet-iron  or  tin. 
Without  this  precaution,  as  the  roofs  of  dwellings 
in  Canada  are  usually  formed  of  boards,  and  some- 
times with  the  exterior  addition  of  shingles,  they 
would,  in  summer,  become  highly  combustible 
from  without,  and  liable  to  ignition  from  a  small 
spark  of  fire.  The  houses  which  are  protected 
in  the  former  manner,  will  last,  without  need  of 
repairs,  for  a  considerable  number  of  years. 

The  town  \A'as  inclosed  by  a  stone  fortification, 
which  having  loiig  fallen  to  ruins,  is  now  in  a  great 
measure  levelled,  or  removed.  It  was  thus  2or. 
tiPicd,  to  guard  its  inhabitants  against  the  frequent 
irruptions  of  the  Iroquois :  and  the  walls  were 
never  in  a  state  to  resist  the  attack  of  a  regulai- 
army.  An  act  of  the  colonial  legislature,  was 
some  time  ago  passed,  for  their  total  demolition. 
This  has  in  a  great  degree  been  carried  into  effect : 
and  the  place  is  now  rapidly  improving  in  exten- 
sion as  well  as  in  neatness  of  edifices. 

Montreal  is  divided  into  the  upper  and  lower  ' 


(  1 


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124  MONTREAL, 

towns,  although  the  difference  of  level  between 
them,  exceeds  not  twelve  or  fifteen  feet.  In  the 
latter  are  the  public  market,  held  twice  in  the 
week,  and  the  Hotel  Dieu.  The  upper  town  con- 
tains the  cathedral,  the  English  church,  the  con- 
vent of  RecoUets,  that  of  the  sisters  of  Notre  Dame, 
the  Seminary,  the  Government  housCj  and  the 
new  Court  of  Law.  The  religious  edifices  are 
constructed  with  more  solidity  than  taste  ;  and  all 
of  them  are  possessed  of  extensive  gardens^ 

The  Hotel  Dieu,  foiilided  by  Madame  dc  Bou^ 
illon  in  1644,  has  a  superior  and  thirty  nuns, 
whose  principal  occupation  consists  in  administer- 
ing relief  to  the  sick,  who  are  received  into  that 
hospital.  A  large  room  irf  the  upper  part  of  the 
building,  is  appropriated  as  a  ward  for  female,  and 
one  immediately  under  it,  for  male  patients.  Ag 
the  institution  was  intended  for  public  benefit, 
the  medicines  w^ere,  during  the  French  govern- 
ment,  supplied  at  the  expcnce  of  the  crown. 
The  fur  1  by  which  it  was  supported,  being  vest- 
ed in  Paris,  was  lost  in  consequence  of  the  revo- 
lution. Its  present  slender  sources  are  chiefly 
derived  from  some  property  in  land. 

The  General  Hospital  stands  on  the  banks  of 
the  river,  and  is  separated  from  the  town  by  a 
small  rivulet.  It  owes  its  establishment,  in  1753, 
to  a  widow  lady  named  Youville.  It  contains  a 
.superior,  and  nineteen  nuns. 

A  natural  wharf,  very  near  to  tlie  to^\Ti,  is  form- 


.fc  >-"«*,.  i*1 


sd  by  the  depth  of  the  stream,  and  the  sudden 
declivity  of  the  bank.  The  environs  of  Montreal 
are  composed  of  four  streets  extending  in  different 
directions.  That  of  Quebec  on  the  north,  Saint 
Lawrence  towards  the  west,  and  the  Recollet  and 
Saint  Antoine  towards  the  south ;  in  the  latter  is 
placed  the  college,  which  has  been  lately  rebuiltr 
These,  together  with  the  town,  contain  abeut 
twelve  thousand  inhabitants. 

The  mountain  is  about  two  miles  and  a  half  dis- 
tant from  the  town.  The  land  rises,  at  first  by 
gentle  gradations,  and  is  chiefly  occupied  for  gar- 
dens and  orchards,  producing  apples  and  pears  of 
a  superior  quality.  The  more  steep  parts  of  the 
mountain,  continue  to  be  shaded  by  their  native 
woods.  The  northern  extremity,  which  is  the 
most  lofty,  assumes  a  more  abrupt  acclivity  with 
a  conical  form:  and  the  remains  of  the  cra- 
ter of  a  volcano,  are  found  among  the  rocks. 
This  elevated  spot,  about  seven  hundred  leet 
above  the  level  of  the  river,  is  of  a  long  shape ; 
and  extends  upwards  of  two  miles  from  north 
to  south,  subsiding,  towards  the  centre,  over 
which  a  road  passes,  and  again  rising  in  rugged 
masses,  clothed  with  trees.  A  house  and  gardens, 
belonging  to,  and  occupied  by  the  mcmbtrii  of 
the  Seminary,  are  agreeably  situated  on  the  eastern 
declivity. 

The  scene  displayed  from  the  summit  of  the 
mountain,  which  is  the  only  eminence  on  the  isl- 


'4 


yi 


.r^^P'**'*" 


'  i'3 


"1  *' 


iii;' 


Mm 

mi 

M  i ; '  lit 

M:'1 


126  montreaC. 

and,  is,  on  every  side,  extensive  and  rich.  Ttic 
citj  of  Montreal,  the  cuUivated  lands,  the  habita* 
tic  ns  interspersed  among  trees ;  the  great  river 
rapidly  dashing  into  clouds  of  white  foam,  over 
the  rocks  of  La  Chine,  and  sweeping  its  silver 
course  around  a  variety  of  islands ;  the  lofty 
mountain  of  Chambly,  with  those  of  Beleuil,  and 
Boucherville,  compose  the  scenery  towards  the 
cast  That  on  the  north,  though  of  equal  fertility, 
is  less  diversified. 

'i'he  most  favourable  view  of  the  town,  is  from 
the  opposite  island  of  Saint  Helen,  where  the 
mountain  appears  in  the  back  ground.  The  east- 
em  coast  of  the  river,  on  which  is  Longueuil, 
Sjint  Lambert,  and  la  Prairie  de  la  Madelene,  is 
well  cultivated  and  thickly  inhabited. 

At  the  breaking  up  of  the  winter,  the  buildings 
of  the  town,  which  are  situated  near  the  river, 
are  sometimes  subject  to  damage,  by  the  accumu- 
lation of  large  fragments  of  ice,  impelled  by  the 
rapidity  of  the  current,  already  described. 

Montreal  being  placed  one  degree  and  sixteen 
minutes  south  from  Quebec,  enjoys  a  more  fa- 
vourable climate.  The  soil  is  richer,  and  the  du- 
ration of  winter  is  not  so  long  at  the  fonncr  place, 
as  at  the  latter,  by  the  space  of  six  week«.  This 
superiority,  with  respect  to  climate  and  soil,  ren- 
ders it  preferable  to  Quebec,  as  a  place  of  constant 
residence.  The  markets  are  r.iore  abundantly 
supplied :  and  \lw  articl'^.  rf  living,  are  sold  at  a 


•^^e*-*-^.  .._J~.^.. 


( 


ICOKTREAC.  127 

ftiore  reasonable  pn.e.  ebptcially  during  wir ter, 
when  the  inhabitants  of  the  United  States,  who  re- 
side upon  lands  bordering  on  Lower  Canada, 
bring  for  sale,  a  part  of  the  produce  of  tlieir  farms. 
Quantities  of  cod,  and  of  other  fish,  in  a  frozen 
state,  are  likewise  conveyed  thidicr  in  sleighs, 
from  Boston. 

The  island  contains  nine  parishes,  Saint  Lau- 
rent, Saint  Genevieve,  Saint  Anne,  Pointe  Clare, 
Pointe  aux  Trembles,  Longue  Pointe,  Sault  aux 
Recollet,  Riviere  des  Prairies,  and  La  Chine. 

La  Chine,  situated  on  the  south  east  side  of 
the  island,  is  the  place  from  whence  all  the  mer- 
chandise and  stores  for  Upper  Canada,  are  em- 
barked in  bateaux,  to  proceed  up  the  course  of 
the  Saint  Lawrence ;  and  in  birch  ounces,  to  as- 
cend the  Outaouais,  or  Grand  River.  The  store- 
houses  which  belong  to  the  commissary  depart- 
ment, are  situated  at  the  upper  part  of  the  Sault 
Saint  Louis.  Those  of  the  merchants,  and  of  the 
Indian  department,  are  placed  about  two  miles 
higher  up,  on  the  borders  of  the  river!  During 
the  summer  season,  bateaux  are  frequently  pass- 
ing between  this  place,  and  Kingston  in  Upper 
Canada. 

The  settlement  of  La  Chine,  received  its  name, 
from  a  plan  which  had  been  projected,  g£  pene- 
trathig  through  the  continent  of  North  America, 
to  China,  the  persons  engaged  in  the  enterprize, 
having  embarked  at  this  spot. 


■■<* 


t4 


..,  /" 


.iiiiJM 


Ihmm 


i-i. 


i.  \ 


128  MONTrt£At. 

The  chief  barriers  of  Montreal  and  its  envi- 
rons, for  many  years  after  tlie  date  of  its  estab- 
lishment, were  two  villages  of  Iroquois   Chris- 
tians, and  the  fort  of  Chambly.     The  first,   and 
most   considerable  village,  is  that  of  the  Sault 
Saint  Louis,  situated  on  the  border  of  the  river, 
opposite  La  Chine,  and  about  four  leagues  from 
the  city.     It  has  twice  changed  its  site,  but  has 
never  been  removed   more  than  four  miles   from 
its  former  position.     The  church,  and  the  dwell- 
ing of  the  missionary,  are  protected   towards  the 
north  and  south,  by  a  stone  wall,  in  which  there 
are    loop-holes  for    musquetry.     The    village, 
which  is  composed  of  about  a  hundred  and  fifty 
houses,  built  of  stone,  contains  upwards  of  eight 
hundred  inhabitants,  who  are  not  less  dirty  and 
slovenly  in  their  persons,  than  in  their  habitations. 
This  mission  is  considered  as  the  most  extensive 
of  any  of  those  among  the  domiciliated  natives,  in 
Canada.     Its  original  settlers,  belonging  to  the 
tribe  of  Iroquois,  or  Mohawks,  were   converted 
to  Christianity,  and  fixed  there  by   missionaries, 
when  the  French  colony  in  Canada  was  feeble 
in   population,  and  circumscribed    in    extent. 
The  principal  support  of  these  Indians,  is  derived 
from  the  cultivation  of  their  grounds,  and  breed- 
ing hogs  and  poultry,  more  tlian  from  fishing  and 
the  chace.  Their  natural  indolence  will  not,  howe- 
ver,, permit  them  to  acquire  habits  of  regular  in- 
dustry  and  labour.     This  insuperable  aversion  to 


m 


v» 


.' 


.•./•4-sV.f>«»f<ii^,^ 


««^,   '>*• 


«>»  ^*.._*.'-**-»»'«^^ 


MONTREAL.  129 

a  life  of  activity,  they  dignify  with  the  title  of  in- 
(lei)eiidence,annexingto  most  of  the  employments 
of  civilized  life,  the  idea  of  slavery. 

Their  hunting  grounds  are  at  a  considerable 
distance  from  their  settlement ;  lying  in  the  ter- 
ritory of  the  United  States,  around  Fort  George, 
Ticonderago  and  Crown  Point ;  and  extending 
sometimes  along  the  coast  of  the  Saint  Lawrence, 
as  far  as  the  bay  of  Chaleurs.  About  one- third 
of  the  inhabitants  of  the  village,  descend  in  winter, 
to  hunt  in  those  quarters.  The  wild  animals, 
with  which  these  regions  formerly  abounded^ 
have  now  become  extremely  rare,  not  only  from 
the  immense  numbers  that  have  been  killed,  but 
on  account  of  the  increase  of  settlements  and  po- 
pulation. Multitudes  which  the  chace  had  yet 
spared,  were  driven  in  quest  of  a  secure  retrea^;, 
to  the  more  remote  forests. 

The  transport  of  merchandise  and  other  arti^ 
cles,  from  the  island  of  Montreal  to  Kingston  ia 
Upper  Canada,  is,  it  has  been  remarked,  conduct- 
ed by  means  of  bateaux,  or  flat- bottomed  boats, 
narrow  at  each  extremity,  and  constructed  of  fir 
planks  Each  of  these  being  about  forty  feet  in 
length,  and  six  feet  across  the  widest  part,  gtnQ^ 
rally  contains  twenty  five  barrels,  or  a  proportion- 
ate number  of  bales  of  blankets,  cloths,  or  linens, 
and  is  capable  of  conveying,  nine  thousand  pounds 
weight.  Four  men  and  a  guide,  compose  the 
i)umberof  hands  allotted  for  working  a  bateau,. 


ii'v 


..x'-S^!,*!^.*.! 


'^f^,  -*««  9'»^ms 


I   r 


y( 


M< 


'/  ■ 


'M.ir- 


!  ; 


Ml 


f'l 


If    '(31 .  '■' 


m 


3 


I 


130  MONTREAL. 

These  arc  supplied  with  provisions,  and  \viili 
rum ;  and  are  allowed  IVom  eight  to  eleven  dol- 
lars  each,  for  the  voyage  to  Kingston,  and  from 
thence  down  again  to  La  Chine,  the  time  of  per- 
forming which,  is  from  ten  to  twelve  days.  The 
^vagcs  of  the  ])ilot  or  guide  amount  to  twelve  or 
fourteen  dollars.  Each  bateau  is  supplied  with 
a  mast  and  sail,  a  grappling  iron,  with  ropes,  sett- 
ing  poles,  and  utensils  for  cooking.  The  ba- 
teaux when  loaded,  take  their  departure  from  La 
Chine,  in  number,  from  four,  to  eight  or  ten  to- 
gether, that  the  crews  may  be  enabled  to  afibrd 
aid  to  each  other,  amid  the  difficulties  and  labo- 
rious exertions  required  in  effecting  this  voyage. 
About  fifty  bateaux  are  employed  on  this  route; 
and  bring  down  for  the  objects  of  commerce 
which  are  conveyed  up,  vi^heat,  flour,  salted  pro. 
visions,  peltry,  and  poiash. 

From  twenty  to  thirty  bateaux  are  ^lke\^isc 
kept  in  the  service  of  government,  for  transport- 
ing  necessaries  'br  the  troops,  and  stores  for  the 
engineer  department ;  likew  ise  articles  of  Euro, 
pean  manufacture,  which  are  every  year  distribut- 
ed  in  presents  to  the  Indian  tribes.  There  are 
thus  engaged  about  three  hundred  and  fifty  men, 
whose  occupation  it  is,  during  the  suUry  months 
of  summer,  to  struggle  against  the  most  trcmen- 
dous  rapids.  Besides  these,  near  four  hundred 
men  ascend  in  bark  cai ioes,  by  the  grand  river  of 
the  Outaouais,  in  a  direct  course  to  Suint  i» 


rence,  is  a 


'^v.   , 


.^»^.S,?'rf..j. 


IIIB    f  ASCA2)£S«  131 

jjeph's  on  Lake  Huron,  and  from  thence  to  the 
new  establishment  on  Lake  Superior,  called  Ka- 
jnanastigua. 

Lake  Saint  Louis,  formed  by  the  junction  of 
part  of  the  Outaouais  river  with  the  Saint  Law- 
rence, is  about  ten  miles  in  width  ;  and  contains 
the  isle  Perrot,  already  noticed,  surrounded  by 
the  waters  of  the  former,  which,  for  a  considera- 
ble way  down,  mingle  not  widi  those  of  the  latter, 
a  circumstance  whicli  is  evinced  by  the  difltrence 
in  their  colours.  The  parish  of  Chateau -gave, 
and  several  small  islands,  occupy  the  south-east 
side  of  the  lake,  into  which  the  cascades  furiously 
pour  their  billo^^s,  and  seem  to  prohibit  to  the 
traveller,  any  further  proiijress  by  v\'atcr.  The 
bateaux  arc  conducted  to  the  ^vestern  side ;  imd 
ascend  the  first  locks,  at  the  top  of  which  they 
arc  unloaded ;  and  the  goods  are  carted  from 
thence,  along  a  road  on  the  borders  of  the  river, 
as  far  as  the  village  of  the  Cedars,  a  distance  of 
five  miles.  Artificers  and  labourers,  under  the 
direction  of  a  royal  engineer,  have,  for  some  time 
past,  been  employed  on  the  extension  and  im- 
provement  of  these  locks,  which,  when  complet- 
ed, will  much  tend  to  facilitate  the  transport,  and 
communication  with  the  upper  country. 

The  cascades  are  about  two  miles  in  length ; 
and  flow  among  three  different  islands.  The  ra- 
pidity and  force  of  the  stream,  arising  from  the 
great  declivity  of  its  bed,  and  the  number  of  rocks 


'J  I 


j>  # 


«<.  'j 


M 


r;j 


I'i 


Hi  i.l 


!i*: 


132  THE    CEDAKS. 

and  cavities  which  it  contains,  cause  it  to  break  in. 
to  masses  of  white  foam,  moving  in  a  dircciion 
the  reverse  of  that  of  waves  produced  in  a  trou- 
bled ocean,  by  the  agency  of  storms.  They  curl 
their  resplendent  tops,  towards  the  quarter  from 
whence  they  are  impelled.  The  mind  of  a  stran- 
gcr  is  filled  with  admiration,  on  beholding,  in  the 
calmest  and  finest  weather,  all  the  noise,  eftlct, 
and  agitation,  which  the  most  violent  conflict  be. 
tween  the  winds  and  waters,  is  capable  of  exhi- 
biting. 

In  a  branch  of  these  cascades,  near  the  locks 
on  the  western  shore,  several  bateaux,  loaded  \\  ith 
soldiers  belonging  to  the  army  under  the  com- 
n^^a  d  of  the  late  Lord  Amherst,  were  lost  in  1 760, 
tluough  the  ignorance  of  the  pilots  who  under- 
took  to  conduct  them.  Somewhat  higher  up, 
on  the  same  coast  of  the  river,  and  not  far  from 
the  land,  is  the  Split  Rock,  close  to  which,  the  I 
bouts  pass  in  descending.  The  current  sweeps 
alog  the  side  oi  this  rock  :  and  great  attention! 
in  bteeringis  required  ;  for,  on  a  too  near  approach, 
the  bateau  would  be  subject  to  the  danger  of  be.| 
ing  lost 

Tiie  rapids  of  the  Cedars  are  about  three  miles  I 
distunt  from  the   highest  part  of  the  Cascadesn 
and  are  formed  amid  a   cluster  of  islands.     The 
river,  for  about  a  mile  and  a  half  above,  assumes 
a  sudden  declivity  and  a   windin^^   course      An| 
awiui  and  soiemn  eftlct  is  produced,  by  the  inces- 


sant  bouiiil,  and  rapid  nulion  of  tlic  ever-swelling 
waves,  vviiicli,  covered  uith  tfl'iijgent  whiteness, 
drive  along  with  irresistible  fury.  'I'lic  empty  ba- 
teaux are  here  dragged  successively  with  ropes, 
by  the  joint  eftbrts  of  eight  or  ten  men  to  each, 
who  walk  up  the  shore,  until  Uiey  arrive  at  the 
village,  near  which  these  rapids  commence.  In 
descending,  the  b^iteaux  are  steered  near  the  vs  ext- 
ern shore,  to  avoid  the  tremendous  and  more 
broken  swell,  which  in  some  places,  is  interspers- 
ed with  rocks.  Although  this  course  is  not  un- 
accompanied by  danger,  the  Canadians  arc  in  ge- 
neral so  experienced  and  expert,  that  an  accidciU 
almost  never  occurs. 

The  village  of  the  Cedars  is  charmingly  situat- 
ed on  the  banks  of  the  Saint  Lawrence ;  it  con- 
tains a  church,  and  about  fifty  houses.  The  ap- 
pearance of  the  waters,  and  oi  the  rich  and  verdant 
islands  around  which  they  wind  their  course,  ex- 
hibits an  assemblage  uncommonly  interesting  i 
and  the  glistening  rapids  of  the  Coteau  du  LaCy 
give  a  lively  termination  to  the  scene.  The  cur- 
rent from  the  latter  place,  to  the  Cedars,  is,  in 
most  situations  so  powerful,  that  the  bateau  men 
are  necessitated  to  make  use  of  tL^ir  setting  poles, 
which  are  about  seven  feet  in  length,  and  shod 
with  iron.  As  the  current  im|)els  the  vessel  tow- 
ards the  shore,  the  men  place  them  along  that 
side  will  is  inwards ;  and  push  it  forward,  b}- 
the  pressure  of  each  upon  his  poll,  attiic  same  in 

M 


ti  ni  ^ 

•  i  I 


sAJjfL 


134 


COTEAU  DU    LAC. 


mi 

„  '' !  'i     .J 


hi:  •  i, »   ■.. 


iitant.  The  bateau,  bj  these  united  efforts,  is  forfc. 
ed  up  the  stream  :  and  the  nupulsive  movement 
is  continued,  by  thus  setting  the  poles  in  the  bed 
of  tlie  waters,  and  by  a  reiteration  of  the  same 
exertions.  This  operation,  although  fatiguing 
and  laboiious  in  the  extreme,  they  will  prolong 
for  the  space  of  several  hours.  When  the  cur- 
rent is  too  powerful  for  the  use  of  poles,  the  ba- 
tcau  is  dragged  by  a  long  rope,  the  men  engag- 
ed in  this  office,  walking,  as  has  been  before  des- 
cribed, along  the  banks  of  the  river.  In  the  less 
rapid  streams,  the  oars  are  used  :  and  when  the 
wind  is  favourable,  and  the  current  not  strong, 
recourse  is  had  to  the  sail 

At  the  C  oteau  du  Lac  Saint  Francois,  the  ba- 
teaux again  ascend  by  locks,  where  a  certain  du- 
ty is  jyayable  on  spiiituous  liquors,  wines,  and 
some  other  articles,  imported  into  Upper  Cana- 
da, although  the  limits  of  that  provin«e  are  plac- 
ed some  miles  higher  up. 

By  the  interposition  of  islands,  the  river  here 
divides  itself  into  three  considerable  branches,  in 
which  the  furious,  noisy  waters,  dashing  with 
ceaseless  impetuosity,  cover  the  surface  of  the 
streams  with  broken  clouds  of  foam.  'I'he  ba- 
teaux, in  descendhig,  pass  close  under  the  banks 
of  an  island  opposite  to  the  locks ;  and  present  to 
a  stranger  who  may  be  looking  from  the  shore, 
a  singular  appearance,  as  they  are  only  parh,.il)r 
discoverable,  while  darting  along,  anaid  the  swell- 


ing and 
of  land  i 
closes  it 
about  tl 
an  Bode 
ccs;   \vl 
hend  wi 
under 
townshi 
should  1 
lands  an 
The  len; 
and  its  g 
arc  flat : 
ther  sid( 
lers  pass: 

The 
placed  oi 
of  the  li 
rich  and 
b;^tween 
through 
Quebec 

Thcf 
Lancast( 
Francis, 

*  A  town 
40,000  acre 
coiidhions. 
'vions  where 


•■>4 


forts,  is  forfe. 
i  movement 
es  in  the  bed 
)f  the  same 
fh  fatiguing 
vill  prolong 
en  the  eur- 
>les,  the  ba- 
nen  engag- 
before  cles- 
In  the  less 
d  when  the 
not  stroiig, 

;ois,  the  ba- 
certain  du- 
wines,  and 
pper  Cana- 
e  are  plac- 

river  here 
anchts,  in 
shing  with 
face  of  the 
'I'he  ba- 
*  the  banks 

present  to 
the  sliore, 
parii.,iljr 
i  the  swcU- 


LAKE   ST.   FRANCliJ.  13j 

i'ng  and  agitated  torrent  At'ier  passing  a  point 
of  land  above  the  rapids,  Lake  Saint  Francis  dis- 
closes itself  to  the  eye.  On  the  north  side,  and 
about  the  middle  of  its  extent,  is  situated  Poivtc 
an  Bodet,  the  boundary  between  the  two  provin- 
ces ;  which  was  here  fixed,  in  order  to  compre- 
hend within  Lower  Canada,  all  seignorial  grants 
under  the  French  tenure,  and  that  the  new 
townships  which  were  laid  out  for  the  loyalists, 
should  be  within  Upper  Canada,  in  wliich  all 
lands  are  granted,  in  free  and  common  soccagc. 
The  length  of  the  lake  is  about  twenty-five  miles, 
and  its  greatest  width,  about  fifteen.  Its  borders 
are  flat :  and,  in  some  situations,  the  land  on  ei- 
ther  side  can  scarcely  be  distinguished  by  travel- 
lers  passing  along  its  centre. 

The  Indian  settlement,  called  St.  Regis,  is 
placed  on  the  south  side,  at  the  upper  extremity 
of  the  lake,  in  latitude  forty -five  degrees,  in  a 
rich  and  beautiful  country.  The  boundary  line 
b;?tweeii  Canada  and  the  United  States,  passes 
thi'ough  it.  A  missionary  from  the  seminary  of 
Quebec  is  stationed  among  the  Indians 

The  first  township^  in  Upper  Canada  is  called 
Lancaster,  upon  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Saint 
Francis,  watered  by  three  small  rivers,  extend- 

*  A  township  is  a  certain  tract  of  land  containing-  from  20,000  tc/ 
40,000  acres,  granted  by  government  to  individuals,  upon  specified 
conditions.  This  word  is  therefore  sometimes  apjjlied  to  situalf 
;ions  where  settlements  luve  scarcely  been  coHimeuced.. 


I 


'>!-■. 


!  i'.i !»-  4.^      ! 
I    >i      Pit    ] 


!»■  I 


ISO  LAKE    ST.    "HIANCIS, 

ing  nine  miles  in  front,  tcv^arcls  the  lake,  ami 
twelve  miles  in  dtpih.  The  adjoining  beulc- 
mentof  Charlottenburg,  has,  in  its  front  several 
small  islands ;  and  is  watered  by  two  branches 
of  the  riyer  aux  Raisins^  which  winds  its  course 
through  a  considerable  part  of  the  township,  un- 
til it  joins  the  lake.  Between  the  latter  settle- 
ment, and  Cornwall,  a  narrow  tract  intervenes, 
whici.  is  the  property  of  the  Indians  of  Saint  Re. 
gis.  An  island,  named  Petite  Islcy  is  situated 
opposite  to  their  village  :  and  another  more  con* 
siderablc,  named  Grande  Isle  Saint  Megis^  lies 
somewhat  higher  up,  and  in  front  of  the  town- 
sliip  of  Cornwall.  This  village  or  town,  as  it  is 
termed,  is  intended  to  be  a  mile  square  :  and  the 
houses  already  built,  extend  along  the  banks  of  a 
branch  of  the  Saint  Lawrence,  which  here  forms 
a  bay.  In  this  vicinity  are  several  islands  besides 
the  two  already  mentioned.  These  are  denomi- 
nated Isles  aux  milles  Roches ^  and  des  Cheneaux 
Ecartees,  The  township  of  Kenyon,  is  in  the 
rear  of  the  former  settlement;  and  Roxburgh, 
in  that  of  the  latter. 

In  the  adjoining  township  of  Osnabruck,  tlie 
river  aux  Raisins  has  its  source  :  and  in  the  vici- 
nity of  this  settlement,  are  the  He  au  Longue  Saidty 
lies  des  trots  Cheneaux  Ecartees^  licit  au  Diabky 
and  He  au  Chat. 

The  channel  of  the  river  becomes  in  this  situa- 
tion very  steep :  and  the  waters,  intersected  and 


iDutract 
prodigit 
arc  aiwj 
through 
use  thei 
becomes 
by  ropes 
Ther 
nitudc  o 
gue  Sau 
These  b 
their  brc 
and  trou 
From  a 
by  the  si 
displayec 
high ;  an 
of  the  Yi\ 
in  which 
is  beaut 
shades  o 
tance,  ra 
dragging 
sed  throi 
the  sou 
from  th 
much  lei 
use  of  p< 
bateaux 
The  lenj 


'  lake,  and 
ing  beulc- 
3iit  Sicveral 
)  branches 

its  course 
nisbip,  un- 
tter  settle- 
intervenes, 
f  Saint  Re- 
is  situated 
more  con- 
J^egisy  lies 
■the  town- 
i\vn,  as  it  is 
e :  and  the 
;  banks  of  a 
here  forms 
nds  besides 
re  denomi- 

Cheneaux 
is  in  tlie 
Roxburgh, 

bruck,  tlie 
in  the  vici- 
ngue  Sanity 
au  Diabki 

\  this  situa- 
sected  and 


tONGUE  SAULT,  137 

«©ntracted  bet  wee  ii  these  isiaads,  rush  along  with 
prodigious  velocity.  The  bateaux,  in  ascending, 
are  always  conducted  by  the  north  shore,  and 
through  the  more  shallow  parts,  th.it  the  men  may 
use  their  setting  poles  •  and  in  many  places,  it 
becomes  necessary  to  disembark,  and  drag  them 
by  ropes. 

The  noise,   tlie  continual  motion,  and  mag. 
nitudc  of  its  contending  waves,  render  the  Lon- 
gue  Sauit,  at  once  an  object  of  terror  and  delight. 
These  burst  upon  each  other ;  and,  tossing  aloft 
their  broken  spray,  cover  the  stream  with  a  white 
and  troubled  surface,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  extend* 
From  a  point  of  land,  on  the  north  shore,  formed 
by  the  sinuosities  of  the  stream,  much  grandeur  is 
displayed.      The  bank  is  here  about  fifty  feet 
high ;  and  commands  a  view  of  the  principal  branch 
of  the  river,  for  a  distance  of  two  or  three  miles ; 
in  which  the  eflulgence  of  the  impetuous  current 
is  beautifully    contrasted,    with  the    bordering 
shades  of  the  woods.     Throughout  the  same  dis- 
tance, much  labour  and  exertion  are  required  in 
dragging  forward  the  bateaux,  after  they  have  pas- 
sed through  a  mill-stream  on  the  bank.  Towards 
the   south  shore,  which  is  separated  by  islands 
from  the  branch  now   described,  the  stream  i; 
much  less  broken :    and  its   depth  precludes  the 
use  of  poles.     It  is  through  this  channel  that  ho 
bateaux    pass,   in  their  return  from   Kingston. 
The  length  of  the  Longue  Sattlt  is  estimated  »t 

M   2 


(  yi 


'■■^Ht 


"g^* 


^^■••■•■% 


iWu.Vl 


,A 


«    ! 


''V\||l("    ^ 


H', 


§ 


f\ 


■  ; ' 


138  tOWCtJE    SAULt. 

nine  miles :  and  a  boat  usiiaay  descends  it,  in 
about  twenty  minutes,  which  is  at  tlie  rate  of 
tv\enty. seven  miles  an  hour. 

The  south  shore  is.  in  general,  covered  with  its 
native  woods :  and  it  is  only  at  considerable  dis- 
tances from  each  other,  that  settlements  are  in- 
terspersed. Williamsburg  on  the  north  shore, 
is  the  adjoining  township  to  Osnabruck ;  and  has 
before  it  lie  au  rapid  Plat^  the  west  end  of  which 
is  opposite  to  the  next  settlement,  Matilda. 
Here  are  also  some  smaller  islands,  and  a  pejiin- 
sula,  whicli,  when  the  river  is  very  full,  becomes 
surrounded  by  water. 

The  village  of  Johnstown,  which  is  near  a  mile 
m  length,  and  designed  to  extend  a  mile  in 
breadth,  is  placed  in  the  township  of  Edwards- 
burg.  From  hence,  decked  vessels  of  consider- 
able burden  may  be  navigated  to  Kingston  ;  from 
thence  to  Niagara,  or  to  any  part  of  Lake  Ontario. 
The  islands  opposite  to  this  township  are  nume- 
rous ;  the  principal  arc  Hospital  island,  and  Isle 
du  Forte  Levy,  where  the  French  formerly  had  a 
small  garrison,  to  defend  the  lower  settlements, 
from  the  irruptions  of  the  Iroquois.  La  GaloU 
te  is  a  part  of  the  great  river,  in  which  the  current 
flows  with  much  rapidity,  although  the  waters  arc, 
in  very  few  places,  broken. 

Oswegatchie,  formerly  a  military'  post  belong- 
ing to  the  British  government,  was  given  up  to 
tliat  of  the  United  States  in  17  95,     It  stands  en 


THE  SAIWT  LAWBFirCE.  130 

the  south  shore,  nearly  oppo-.ae  t:>  New  JohMs- 
town.  It  is  now  known  by  the  name  of  Os^jdens- 
bury: ;  and  is  the  county  town  in  which  the  cir- 
cuit courts  are  held.  The  St.  Lawrence,  whose 
breadth  is  here  about  four  miles,  receives  into  its 
bosom  the  !:ilack  river  On  the  borders  of  the 
latter  are  situated  some  houses,  inhabited  by  about 
a  hundred  natives  of  the  Iroquois  tribe,  who  are 
usually  termed  Oswegatchie  Indians. 

Elizabeth  town,  a  settlement  on  the  north  side, 
which  joins  the  township  of  Augusta,  is  well  wa- 
tered by  three  rivers,  the  most  considerable  of 
which  takes  its  rise  from  a  little  lake ;  and  is  called 
tfie  Tonianta,  the  lies  du  Barril  being  contiguous 
to  it.  On  the  south-east  angle  of  the  township 
of  Yonge,  the  latter  river  disembogues  itself  into 
the  Saint  Lawrence.  Lansdown,  adjoining  to 
the  last  settlement,  contai/is  mcmy  small  streams; 
and  the  great  river,  for  an  extent  of  several  miles^ 
from  near  Kingston,  as  far  down  as  Augusta,  is 
interspersed  by  a  multitude  of  isles.  As  it  spreads 
itself  to  a  width,  in  some  places,  of  ten  or  twelve 
miles,  this  part  has  acquired  the  name  of  the  lake 
of  the  Thousand  Islands  ;  which  may  be  said  to 
be  only  a  prolongation  of  Lake  Ontario. 

The  river  Gamansque,  deriving  its  source  from 
a  lake  oi*  the  satne  name,  takes  its  course  through 
the  township  of  Leeds;  and  possesses,  at  its 
mouth,  .1  go(xl  harbour  lor  vessris. 

Between  the  last  aamed  seiUcuieat  and  Kings* 


\h\ 


mmsji*- 


,  * .'     ( 


iii 


;i:. 


\rV 


^w 


i»u 


140  flfK  SAINT  LAWKEKC£. 

ton,  Pittsburg  iiittTveues.  Howe  island  stretch* 
cs,  in  a  long,  and  narrow  form,  near  the  iVoni  of 
these  two  townships.  From  Pointe  au  Bodet  to 
King*ston,  the  distance  is  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles :  and  in  that  space  are  contained  above 
eighty  water  mills,  the  most  considerable  of 
wliich  are  erected  upon  the  river  Gananoqiie. 
Roads  have,  some  years  ago,  been  opened,  and 
wooden  bridges  constructed  over  the  intervening 
creeks  and  rivers.  From  Point  au  Bodet  down- 
wards, a  way  for  travellers  on  horseback,  has 
been  cut  through  the  woods,  which  is  yet  scarce- 
ly  practicable  for  wheeled  carriages.  Many  parts 
of  this  road,  as  well  as  of  those  in  the  vicinity  of 
Kingston,  are  at  tim^s  rendered  almost  impassa- 
ble by  considerable  falls  of  rain,  the  altitude  of 
tJie  trees  on  -each  side  precluding  the  rays  of  the 
fiu*!.  After  a  fall  of  snow,  in  winter,  travelling 
by  land  is  rendered  much  more  easy. 

Settlements  have  been  commenced,  in  upwards 
of  thirty  other  townships,  situated  in  the  rear  of 
those  already  mentioned,  and  on  the  southward 
of  the  Outaoufiis,  or  Great  River,  upon  whose 
«iiargin,  many  of  them  terminate.  Others  are 
watered  by  the  river  Rideau,  and  by  that  of  Pe- 
tite Nation,  with  the  lakes  and  streams  of  the  Ga- 
aianoque,  affording  a  variety  of  places,  convenient 
for  the  erection  of  mills.  These  rivers  abound 
in  carp,  sturgeon,  and  perch.  The  ponds  aflord 
green,  and  otlier  turtle,  likewise  fish  of  different 


I.    'i!« 


.'— .^— .  -^*  *-  ■'*"*•  ''^toe^' 


THE  SAINT  LAWRENCE.  141 

species.  The  soils  in  their  vicinity  produce  tim. 
ber,  whose  quality  depends  on  position  and  ferti- 
lity. The  dry  lands,  which  are  usually  the  most 
elevated,  afford  growth  to  oak  and  hickory.  The 
low  grounds  produce  walnut,  ash,  poplar,  cherry, 
sycamore,  beech,  maple,  elm,  and  other  woods  : 
and  in  some  places,  there  are  swamps,  cbvered  by 
eedar  and  cypress  tre^s. 

The  banks  of  the  small  rivers  and  creeks  a- 
bound  in  pine  timber  of  an  excellent  kind ;  and 
present  several  situations  for  water-mills,  as  well 
as  materials  for  their  construction.  The  sources 
of  the  rivers  Ridcau  and  Petite  Nation,  both  of 
which  flow  into  the  Outaouais,  communicate,  by 
short  carrying  places,  with  the  streams  which 
fell  into  the  Saint  Lawrence,  and  offer  to  settlers 
the  advantages  of  an  inland  navigation.  The 
forks  of  the  Rideau,  in  whose  vicinity  are  the 
townships  of  Oxford,  Marlborough,  and  Gower, 
seem  calculated  to  facilitate,  at  some  future  pc*» 
riod,  an  interior  commerce. 


%-r 


-■ji*,... 


!i 


.  H 


It 


I 


\il3 


'I    j  V 


vr: 


142 


KlffGSTON. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


J0e.fcriptio7i  of  Kingston  in  Upper  Cnnada-^Lake  On- 
tario--Bay  of  ^linte—excellence  of  its  soil—  Toronto^ 
or  Tork^  the  capital — Burlington  Bay — River  Oiion- 
dag', — Komantic  cascades — Genesee  River — JVattr- 
fall — Forts  and  town  of  Niagara — superior  aavan- 
tugrs  enjoyed  by  settlers  on  the  bunks  of  the  Saint 
Lawrence — rapid  increase  of  populations  and  pros- 
perous state  of  the  province— ^vee fist oivr, — the 
Whirlpooi'^stupendous  majesty  of  the  Falls  of  Nia* 
gara-— 'Cascades — vi.llag'e  of  Chippawa, 

KINGSTON  is  charmingly  situated  on  the 
northern  coast  of  the  Saint  Lawrence,  not  far  from 
Lake  Ontario,  in  north  latitude,  forty -four  de- 
grees, eight  minutes,  and  in  west  longitude  from 
Greenwich,  seventy-five  degrees,  forty-one  mi- 
nutes.  This  town  was  begun  in  the  year  1784, 
upwards  of  twenty- one  years  ago ;  and  has  con- 
tinued, ever  since  that  period,  to  advance  in  a 
progressive  state  of  improvement,  to  which  the 
judicious  choice  of  situation,  and  the  fertility  of 
the  lands  in  its  vicinity,  have,  doubtless,  greatly 
contributed.  Besides  several  commodious  dwel. 
liugs,  constructed  of  stone  of  an  excellent  quality, 
it  contains  a  barrack  for  troops,  a  gaol  and  court- 
house, an  episcopal  church,  an  hospital,  and  seve- 
ral extensive  storehouses.  At  this  place  the  ves» 
sels  belonging  to  government,  used  in  navigating 


r'"-^^*. 


fa—'Lake  On- 
oil— Toronto^ 
-River  Onon- 
iver — Water- 
')erior  aavan- 
of  the  Saint 
?n,  and  pros- 
?nstoivr. — the 
Falls  oj  Nia- 

ted  on  the 
not  far  from 
ty.four  de- 
git  ude  from 
rty-one  mi- 
year  1784, 
nd  has  con- 
ivance  in  a 
which  the 
I  fertility  of 
.ess,  greatly 
dious  dwcl- 
lent  quality, 
1  and  court- 
:il,  and  sevc- 
ace  the  ves. 
1  navigating 


AI^GSTOJ?.  143 

bake  Ontario,  are  constructed ;  and  from  hence, 
mci  ciumdise  and  other  articles  w  hicli  are  convey* 
cd  from  the  lower  province,  in  bateaux,  are  em- 
barked to  be  transported  to  Niagara,  York,  and 
other  settlements  bordering  on  tiic  lake  :  he 
largest  vessels  employed  in  this  service,  do  not 
exceed  two  hundred  tons  burden  :  but  the  usual 
size  is  from  eighty  to  a  hundred  tons.  At  Kings- 
ton, there  iu*e  two  coves  or  inlets,  where  vessels 
come  to  anchor,  and  on  which  wharfs  are  con- 
structed, for  loading  or  discharging  their  cargoes. 
That  appropriated  for  the  vessels  of  government, 
is  at  some  distance  from  the  town ;  and  is  formed 
by  a  promontory  on  the  east,  and  a  peninsula,  call- 
ed Point  Frederick.  On  this  are  placed  the  na- 
val store,  and  yai'd  for  building  these  vessels.  A 
master  builder,  with  some  artificers,  resides  upon 
the  spot ;  and  is  kept  in  constant  employ.  The 
house  of  the  deputy  commissary,  and  those  of 
some  other  persons  in  the  service,  stand  likewise 
upon  this  peninsula.  The  other  cove,  much  more 
considerable  than  the  last,  is  formed  betvv'cen  the 
town  and  tlie  point  already  mentioned.  Both  of 
these  inlets  are  exposed,  when  the  wind  blv>vvs 
with  violence  from  the  south,  or  south-west,  and 
drives  before  it  from  the  lake,  a  succession  of  s\\  el- 
ling  billows. 

The  number  of  vessels  here,  in  the  king's  ser- 
vice, is  at  present  not  more  than  three,  t\vo  of 
which  are  appropriated  for  the  niiiitajy,  and  one 


W 


* . 


-"«ii,».if*,wifej!r. 


WM 


■ff 


\\ 


fm 


f' 


1  ^ " 


'•'ti 


144  KINGSTON* 

for  the  civil  dfpartment.  Each  vessel  carries 
from  ten  to  twenty  guns.  The  senior  commander 
is  stiled  commodore.  As  all  kinds  of  timber  have 
a  tendency  to  decay,  much  sooner  in  fresh  thunin 
salt  water;  a  vessel  navigating  the  lakes  will  not 
last  above  vix  years,  unless  she  be  made  to  under- 
go  considerable  repairs.  As  those  in  the  employ 
of  government  receive  no  repairs  in  their  hulls, 
they  are  generally  laid  up  at  the  expiration  ol  tiiat 
period ;  and  are  replaced  by  other  vessels  entire- 
ly  new. 

The  rapid  advancement  of  the  country  in  po. 
pulation  and  improvements  of  every  description, 
has  proportionally  extended  the  commerce.  The 
number  of  vessels  in  the  employ  of  the  merchants 
is  considerable.  These  are  usually  built  about 
ten  miles  below  Kingston  :  and  the  timber  used 
for  their  construction  is  red  cedar  or  oak. 

Grande  Isle,  now  called  Wolfe  Island,  not  far 
from  the  town,  is  the  largest  which  occurs  be- 
tween  Montreal  and  Lake  Huron.  H'he  timber 
found  here,  and  on  the  south  shore  of  the  main 
land,  is  red  oak,  butternut,  maple,  ash,  elm,  and 
small  pine.  Carleton  island,  of  small  extent,  in- 
tervenes between  the  latter  and  the  south  shore ; 
and  was  formerly  occupied  as  a  military  station. 
It  has  on  either  side  a  channel  of  sufficient  depth 
for  vessels,  and  two  excellent  harbours.  It  now 
properly  belongs  to  the  United  States,  as  the 
boundary  line  of  that  government  passes  tlirough 


iiiH»H^ii"» 


» 


kiNGsioN.  146 

ihc  centre  of  Grand  Isle.  It  contained  a  stone 
fort,  with  barracks  of  the  same  materials,  store- 
houses, and  other  structures. 

One  of  the  smaller  islands,  opposite  to  Kings- 
ton, abounds  with  insects  called  ticks,  resembling 
thf  little  animal  of  the  same  name,  found  ujjoii 
cattle  in  Europe,  but  of  a  much  larger  size.  In 
summer,  these  insects  spread  themselves  over  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  over  the  trees,  the  herbage, 
and  the  rocks.  They  climb  upon  every  object  in 
*heir  way :  and  to  man,  iheir  effects  are  highly  dis- 
agreeable, particularly  if  they  gain  the  head,  from 
whence  they  are  with  difficulty  dislodged.  ^Vlth- 
out  producing  any  degree  of  pain,  chey  will  gra- 
dually insinuate  themselves  benec;th  the  skinj 
and  there  establish  their  quarters.  To  horses  or 
cattle,  which  have  been  sent  to  graze  on  this  island, 
the  ticks,  from  their  multitudes,  have  been  fre- 
quently fatal.  ,.^ 

The  town  which  we  have  described,  is,  by- 
some,  called  Cataroquoy,  the  Indian  name ;  and 
was  formerly  known  by  that  of  Frontenac,  from 
a  count  of  the  same  title,  who  was  twice  Gover- 
nor-general of  Canada.  The  lake  v^as  also,  for 
a  long  time  known  by  the  same  appellation.  A 
small  fort  was  many  years  ago  established  in  this 
situation,  with  the  design  of  checking  the  incur- 
sions of  the  Iroquois,  and  of  diveruiig,  in  lavour 
ol't'iie  French,  the  commerce  for  peltry,  vvhich 
thcbe  Savages  conducted  between  the  more  north- 

N 


>i::    * 


;1  (• 


11^ 


'kV  I 


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/'.• 


i  )\ 


u 


*'.» 


iWn  lis    ,y 


146  lAKI    ONTARIO.    . 

cm  nnd  western  trills,  and  the  inhabitants  of 
New  York,  who  could  supply  Tor  that  purjjose 
various  articles  of  European  manulacuirc,  on 
terms  much  more  reasonable  than  the  tbrmer  coio- 
nists. 

The  fort  was  originally  built  of  stone,  by  M  dc 
la  Sale,  celebrated  for  his  discoveries,  but  jet 
n^ore  for  his  misfortunes,  who  was  Seigneur  of 
Cataroquoy,  and  governor  of  the  place.  This  es- 
tablishment was  not  of  long  duration ;  and  was  of 
little  avail  towards  impeding  the  ravages  of  the 
Iroquois. 

Lake  Ontario  is  in  length,  one  hundred  and 
sixty  miles,  and  in  circumference,  about  four  hun- 
dred  and  fifty.     Its  depth  in  many  places,  remains 
unascertained.     The  centre  has  been  sounded, 
with  a  line  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  fathoms, 
without  finding  bottom.      I'he  islands  which  it 
contains  are  Amherst  island,  Basque,  Carlcton, 
PeiitCataroquoy,  Cedar  island.  Isle  Cauchois,  Isle 
au  Cochon,  isle  du  Chene,  Duck  islands,  Grena- 
dier Island,  Isles  au  Galloo,  isle  la  Force,  Isle  avi 
Forel,  Gage  island,  Howe  island,  Nicholas  island, 
Orphan  island.  Isle  de  Quinte,  Isle  Tonti,  Isles 
aiix  Tourtes,  Wollie  island  or  Grande  isle,  and 
W  i.poose  island.     The  land  on   the  north-east 
coast  ol  Lake  Ontario,  is  low,  and  in  some  situa- 
tioi  iS  marshy .     1  he  inlets  or  little  bays,  are,  from 
their  j)osition,    considerably  exposed  to  the  sweB 
of  the  waters,  and  the  ii^ueiice  oi  the  winds. 


The 

ries  of 
ral  is 
which, 
tivc  (\u 
Erne 
is  watci 
its  nort 

VlVtT    A 

mills,  r 
hav  of 
Prince 
inpf  par 
dcrick, 
prelienc 
low,  an 
its  win  J 
bour,  si 
is  frequ 
tics  itsc 
Thurlo 
QuintC; 
into  the 
isthmus 
tribes  c 
in  the  t( 
on  the  1 
chief,  n 
natives, 
tVom  tl 


%:■■ 


^    ^-s      r*  ,-•.*-**- 


gWN 


LAKE   ONTARIO.  147 

The  vicinity  of  Ki.ij^slon  aflfords  valuable  tjiiar- 
Vics  of  durable  white  stone  :  and  the  soil  m  gene- 
ral is  intermixed  with  rocks,  a  circuiribUince 
which,  however,  is  not  prejudicial  to  its  pi  cdiic- 
tivc  quality. 

Ernest  town  is  opposite  to  Amherst  island  ,  and 
is  watered  by  two  small  rivers.  Camden  lies  on 
its  north  side,  and  Richmond  on  its  west.  The 
rivfir  Appcnee,  on  which  tiere  urc  excellent 
mills,  runs  through  the  two  last  townships.  Tnc 
hay  of  Quinte  is  formed  by  the  peninsula  o? 
Prince  Edward,  by  another  peninsula,  co;iLnn« 
inpj  part  of  the  townships  of  Adolphus  and  FiC- 
derick,  and  by  the  continent  on  the  north,  com- 
prehending the  townships  of  Mchav/ks,  lliur- 
low,  and  Sidney.  This  bay  affords,  throughout' 
its  winding  extent,  a  safe  and  commodious  har- 
t)our,  sheltered  from  the  storms  by  which  the  lake 
is  frequently  agitated.  The  river  Moira  here  emp- 
ties itself,  after  having  traversed  the  township  of 
Thurlow.  The  Trent,  formerly  called  the 
Quinte,  the  outlet  of  several  small  lakes,  flows 
into  the  head  of  the  bay,  at  the  eastward  of  the 
istlmius,  or  carrying  place.  P  rt  of  one  of  ihc 
tribes  of  Mohawks,  or  Iroquois,  has  a  settlement 
in  the  township  This  tract  is  nine  miles  in  front 
on  the  btiy,  and  about  twelve  miles  in  depth.  A 
chief,  named  Captain  John,  is  at  the  head  of  those 
natives,  who,  preferring  this  situation,  separated 
from  the  rest  of  their  tribe,  whose  village  is  on 


"^       ""■"■^w»>tii»r.  .la. :  -,  ■,     \  J ' '' 


'■^f* 


(H 


\   I 


r  i'll^ 


k 


145  LAKE    ONTARld. 

the  Grand  River,  or  Ouse,   which  disemiliognog 
its  waters  into  the  north-east  side  of  Lake  Erie. 

On  the  eoiith  side  of  the  Trent,  there  are  salt- 
springs  ;  waters  impregnated  with  salt  have  like- 
wise been  found  in  other  situations  in  this  pro- 
vince :  but  the  salt  w  hich  has  been  produced  from 
them  was  found  by  no  means  to  possess  the  pro- 
perties  of  that  procured  from  the  water  of  the 
ocean  :  and  a  great  part  of  the  provisions  which 
liave  been  cured  with  it,  and  sent  in  barrels  to  Que- 
bec, for  the  use  of  the  troops,  has  been  found,  on 
inspection,  unfit  for  use. 

The  exuberance  of  the  soil  around  the  Bay  of 
Quinte,  amply  rewards  the  toils  of  the  farmer. 
It  is  worked  with  facility ;  and  produces  many 
crops,  without  the  application  of  manure.  The 
usual  produce  is  twenty- five  bushels  of  wheat,  for 
one  acre.  The  timber  consists  of  oak,  elm,  hick- 
ory, maple  and  pines  of  different  species.  The 
bay  is  narrow  throughout  its  whole  extent,  which 
is  upwards  of  fift}*  miles ;  and  is  navigable  for 
those  vessels  which  are  used  upon  the  lake.  An 
apparent  tide  is  frequently  observable  here,  as  well 
as  in  some  parts  of  the  upper  lakes,  a  circum- 
stance probably  occasioned  by  the  impulse  of  the 
winds.  Great  quantities  of  wild  fowl  are  found 
in  this  situation,  and  excellent  fish  of  different  spe- 
cies. Salmon  is  caught  in  the  river  Trent,  but 
of  an  inferior  quality,  on  account  of  its  immense 
distance  from  the  seiu     Tlie  isitiimus  of  the  penr 


^ 


LAKE    ONTARIO.  149 

msula  of  Prince  Edward  being  extremely  narrow, 
it  is  intended  that  a  canal  shall  be  cut  across  it,  be- 
tween the  bay  already  described,  and  a  small  and 
beautiful  lake,  which  communicates  witli  Lake 
Ontario. 

The  harbour  of  Newcastle  is  formed  by  the 
township  of  Cramahe,  and  Presque   Isle.     Be- 
tween the  township  of  Sidney,  and  the  latter,  that 
of  Murray  intervenes.      Those  of  Haldimand, 
Hamilton  and  Hope,  are  beautified  and  fertilized 
by  a  variety  of  little  streams,  upon  some  of  which, 
mills  are  erected.     Clarke,  Darlington,  Whitby, 
and  Pickering,  follow  in  succession,  in  proceed- 
ing to  the  westward ;  at  the  latter,  there  is  a  pro- 
ductive salmon  and  sturgeon  fishery,  in  a  river 
called  Duffin's  Creek,  which  is  usually  open,  and 
large  enough  for  the  reception  of  boats,  at  most 
seasons  of  the  year.     The  township  of  Scarbo- 
rough presents  banks  of  much  greater  elevation 
towards  the  lake,  than  any  part  of  the  northern 
coast  of  that  vast  collection  of  waters.     All  the 
townships  already  noticed,  are  copiously  watered 
by  rivulets,  at  whose  mouths  there  are  ponds, 
and  low  lands,  capable  of  being  drained,  and  con- 
verted  into   meadows.     In  the  rear  of  the  town- 
ship of  Murray,  is  that  of  Se\  mour :  and  Crania- 
he,  Haldimand,  and  Hamilton,  have  contiguous 
to  them  on  the  northward,  the  townships  of  PercV) 
Alnwick,  and  Dives.  Behind  Scarborough,  there 
is  a  German  settlement  upon  the   river  New, 

N  2 


/! 


;  >1 


I:!f\  ; 


ISO  VoRK. 

which,  flowing  throiigii  Pickering,  disembogues 
itself  into  the  lake. 

York,  or  Toronto,  the  seat  of  government  in 
Upper  Canada,  is  placed  in  43°  and  35  minutes 
of  north  latitude,  near  the  bottom  of  a  harbour  of 
the  same  name.  A  long  and  narrow  peninsula, 
distinguished  by  the  appellation  of  Gibraltar  Point, 
forms,  and  embraces  this  harbour,  securing  it 
from  the  storms  of  the  lake,  and  rendering  it  the 
suiest  of  any,  around  the  coasts  of  that  sea  of  fresh 
Welters.  Stores  and  block-houses  are  constructed 
near  the  extremity  of  this  point.  A  spot  called 
the  garrison,  stands  on  a  bank  of  the  main  land, 
opposite  to  the  point ;  and  consists  only  of  a  wood- 
en block-housfe,  and  some  small  cottages  of  the 
same  materials,  little  superior  to  temporary  huts. 
The  house  in  which  the  lieutenant-governor  re- 
sides, is  likewise  formed  of  wood,  in  the  figure  of 
a  half  square,  of  one  story  in  height,  with  galleries 
in  the  centre.  It  is  sufficiently  commodious  for 
the  present  state  of  the  province ;  and  is  erected 
upon  a  bank  of  the  lake,  near  the  mouth  of  To- 
ronto bay.  The  town,  according  to  the  plan,  is 
projected  to  extend  to  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length, 
from  the  bottom  of  the  harbour,  along  its  banks. 
Many  houses  are  already  completed,  some  of 
which  display  a  considerable  degree  of  taste*  The 
adf  ancement  of  this  place  to  its  present  condition, 
has  l:>een  effected  within  the  lapse  of  six  or  seven 
years,  and  persons  wiio  have  formerly  txaveiied  in 


.»«*WI(88|jlllli,  ^  .:t^i,i 


-..;tj 


VORKT-  151 

this  part  of  the  country,  are  impressed  with  sen- 
timents of  wonder,  on  behoicling  a  low  n  which 
may  be  termed  handsome,  reared  as  if  b)  encliant* 
mcnt,  in  the  midst  of  a  wilderness.  Two  build- 
ings of  bricic,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  town, 
which  were  designed  as  wings  to  a  centre,  arc 
occupied  as  chambers  for  the  upper  and  lower 
house  of  assembly  The  scene  from  this  part  of 
the  basin,  is  agreeable  and  diversified ;  a  block- 
house, situated  upon  a  wooded  bank,  forms  the 
nearest  object.  ,  Part  of  the  town,  points  of  land 
clothed  with  spreading  oak-trees,  gradually  re- 
ceding from  the  eye,  one  behind  another,  until 
terminated  by  the  buildings  of  the  garrison  and 
the  spot  on  which  the  governor's  residence  is 
placed,  compose  the  objects  on  the  right.  The 
left  side  of  the  view  comprehends  the  long  penin- 
sula which  incloses  this  sheet  of  water,  beautiful 
on  aceoimt  of  its  placidityi,  and  rotundity  of  form. 
The  distant  lake,  which  appears  bounded  onfy  by 
the  sky,  terminates  the  whole. 

A  rivulet,  called  the  Don,  runs  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  town  :  and  there  are  likewise  other  springs 
by  which  this  settlement  is  watered.  Yonge- 
street,  or  the  military  way  leading  to  Lake  Sini- 
coe,  and  from  thence  to  Giouoester-bay  On  Lake 
Huron,  commences  in  tlic  rear  of  the  town. 
This  communis. tion,  which,  in  time,  will  be  pro- 
ductive of  great  utility  to  the  commerce  of  the 
country,  is  opened  as  far  as  Liike  Simcoe ;  and 


1 


i't.H 


f . 


5, ) 


'> 


:^r'' 


'»y»r-"^j*» 


I'; 


It  ■ 


i- 


m 


m  ■ 


152  york; 

as  it  is  considerably  shorter  than  the  circuitous 
route,  by  the  straits  of  Niagara,  Lake  Erie,  and 
Detroit,  must  become  the  great  channel  of  inter- 
course from  this  part  of  the  province,  to  the  north- 
west country.   Lots  of  two  hundred  acres  are  laid 
out  on  each  side  of  Yonge-street,  every   lot  hav^ 
ing  the  width  of  four  hundred  yards  on  the  street. 
Gwillimbury,  a  settlement  in  the  interior  part  of 
the  country,  is  thirty-two  miles  to  the  northward 
of  York  ;  and  communicates  with  Lake  Simcoe, 
through  Holland  river,  which  runs  into  Cook's 
bay  on  that  lake.     Somewhat  to  the  westward, 
there  are  plains  thinly  planted  with  oak-trees, 
where  the  Indians  cultivate  corn.     As  the  lake  o- 
pens  on  the  eye  of  the  traveller,  some  small  islands 
disclose  themselves ;  of  which  Darling's,  in  the 
eastern  part,  is  the  most  considerable.     To  the 
westward,  there  is  a  large,  deep  bay,  called  Kem- 
penfelt*8,  from  whose  upper  extremity  is  a  short 
carrying-place  to  the  river  Nottuasague,  which 
discharges  itself  into  Iroquois  bay,  on  Lake  Hu- 
ron.  Francis  island  is  placed  on  the  north  end  of 
the  former  lake :  and  a  safe  anchorage  for  vessels 
is  presented  between  it    and  the  shore.     The 
shcMtest  road  to  Jiake  Huron,  is  across  a  small 
neck  of  land,  which  separates  Lake  Simcoe  from 
a  smaller  lake      The   Matchedash  river,  which 
has  its  source  in  the  former,  affords  a  more  circui- 
tous pas^aoje  to  the   northward  and  westward. ; 
^nd  isj  m  every  part,  navigable  lor  boats  of  any 


...iUi^:^ 


,,>-- 


.73&«>^ 


ronir.  I5i 

size,  exf'epting  at  the  rapids,  which  present  situa- 
tions for  mills.  The  soil,  on  either  side  of  this 
river,  is  of  an  inferior  quality.  It  discharpjes  it- 
self into  a  bay  of  the  same  name,  to  the  eastw*  d, 
which  receives  also,  North  and  South  rivers; 
and  forms  a  junction  with  a  yet  larger  basin,  al- 
ready noticed,  called  Gloucester,  or  Sturs^eon  buy, 
in  the  mouth  of  which  lies  Prince  William  Hen- 
iy*s  island,  open,  to  Lake  Huron.  On  a  penin- 
sula, in  this  basin,  ruins  of  a  French  settlement 
are  yet  extant.  The  harbour  of  Penetangushene, 
is  formed  between  two  promontories,  around 
which  there  is  soil  well  suited  for  cultivation. 
This  harbour  possesses  sufficient  depth  of  water, 
and  the  anchorage  for  vessels,  is  safe.  The 
township  of  Markham,  in  the  rear  of  York  and 
Scarborough^  is  settled  by  Germans. 

Tolhe  westward  of  the  garrison  of  York,  are 
the  remains  of  an  old  French  fort,  called  Toron- 
to ;  adjoining  to  this  situation  there  is  a  deep 
bay,  receiving  into  it  the  river  Humber,  between 
which,  and  the  head  of  Lake  Ontario,  the  Tobyco, 
the  Credit,  and  two  other  rivers,  with  a  numbtr 
of  smaller  streams,  join  that  immense  body  of 
waters.  These  abound  in  fish,  particularly  in 
salmon,  for  which  the  Credit  is  celebrated.  A 
house  of  entertainment  for  passengers,  is  establish- 
ed on  the  banks  of  this  river. 

The  tract  of  territory  between  the  Tobyco, 
gnd  the  head  of  the  lake,  is  frecjuented  only  by  er,- 


^1 


.  )« 


V  i»- 


.-.sc^sJC-T-.  .""n  »■,",■"  "'., 


1  'I 


■:,i. 


m 


iiili  i 


r 


154  LAKE    ONTARIO. 

J-atic  tribes  of  Mi^susagues,  wliich  descend  from 
the  northward.  Burlington  bay  is  formed  by  a 
point  of  land  extending  from  south  to  north, 
leaving  only  a  small  outlet,  which  connects  it  with 
the  lake.  Over  this  a  wooden  bridge  is  con- 
structed :  and  at  the  soutli  end  of  the  beach,  aa 
inn,  called  the  Kiug's-head,  is  kept  for  the  ac- 
ton ancdation  of  travellers. 

7'he  bay  now  mentioned,  presents  a  combina- 
tion of  objects,  as  beautiful  and  romantic  in  their 
kind,  as  any  which  the  interior  of  America  can 
boast.  A  bold,  rocky,  and  picturesque  promon- 
tory, separates  it  from  a  marshy  lake,  called  Coot's  ^1 
Paradise,  which  abounds  in  game,  and  pours  thi- 
ther  the  tribute  of  its  waters.  Between  Burling- 
ton bay  and  Niagara,  a.  multitude  of  small  rivers 
join  the  lake,  the  most  distniguishtd  of  which| 
are  those  called  the  Twelve  and  the  Twenty. 
These  rivers,  previous  to  their  departure  from 
their  channels,  spread  themselves  behind  elevated 
beaches  which  impede  their  courses ;  and  find- 
ing only  a  small  opening  through  which  to  flow, 
become  dammed  up,  and  form  spacious  basins 
within.  Their  banks  are  elevated,  but  not  rug- 
ged; and  are  generally  covered  with  pine-trees  of 
•4  large  gro^vth.  The  tract  bordering  on  this  part 
of  the  lake,  is  denominated  the  county  of  Lii^ 
coin ;  and  contains  twenty  townships  which  arc 
well  settled,  and  rapidly  increasing  in  population. 

The  traveiier,  bj^ entering  Lake  Ontario  on  tht, 


If 


if.».^^**i. 


'■^'"-ttr.V.i- 


t    V, 


end  from 
rmed  by  a 
to  north, 
xts  it  with 
je  is  con- 
beach,  an 
3r  the  ac- 

T 

L  combina- 
itic  in  tlieir 
mcrica  can 
le  promon- 
alled  Coot's  / 1 
\  pours  thi- 
en  Burling- 
small  rivertr 
d  of  vvhicli, 
le  Twenty.  I 
arture  from 
ind  elevated 
;  and  find- 
ch  to  flow, 
cious  basins 
)ut  not  rug- 
pine- trees  of 
on  this  pal  I 

ity  of  Lin^ 
s  w  hich  aix 
population, 
utano  on  tk 


TAfit   OKTAHIO.  155 

taSt,  reictts  with  Grenadier  Island,  at  the  distancfc 
ol  eighteen  miles  from  Kingston,  and  near  thfe 
southern  coast ;  which  is  properly  speaking,  tht 
right  bank  of  the  Saint  Lawrence,  in   its  course 
towards  the   ocean.     This  island  is  a  league  in 
length  from  east  to  west ;  and  is  about  sixty  yards 
from  the  shore.     In  pursuing  this  route,  the  first 
river  which  presents  itself,  flow  s  into  the  lake 
from  a  north-east  direction,    in  ascending   whose 
course  about   two  leagues  and  a  half,  a   waterfall 
of  twenty-five  feet  in  height  becomes  disclosed  to 
the  view.     A  swamp  is  found  near  its  summit. 
The  depth  of  water  in  the  river,  is  from  three  to 
one  fathom.     The  banks  are  rock}' :    but   the 
soil  above  them,  gives  sufficient  indications  ol" 
fertility.     The  entrance  of  the  river  is  six  acres 
wide,  contracting  by  degrees  to  one  acre,  and  be* 
coming  yet  more  narrow  at  the  fall.     Somewhat 
to  the  westward,  the  largest  of  the  Isles  au  Gal- 
loo  is  situated,  which,   with  a  peninsula  on  the 
main  coast,  forms  a  harbour  for  vessels,  having  a 
depth  of  from  five,  to  seven  fathoms  of  water,  and 
a  good   bottom  for  anchorage.     Proceeding  a- 
round  the  coast  to  a  bay  running  east-nor<;b-cast, 
we  sounded  from  the  north  point  to  a  small  island; 
and  found  its  breadth  three  acres,   having  from 
five  to  ten  fathoms  of  water,  with  a  muddy   boU 
torn.     Large  vessels  might  anchor  near  the  shore 
on  either  sidt  :  but  that  on  the  south  is  most  se- 
cure, on  account  of  a  peninsula  which  preclude 


'hk 


»«!?IH^ 


'^**'* 


I.M1W.''  vm 


I' t 


M 


IV' 'I 


15i$  "LAKE    ONTARID, 

the  effects  of  stormy  weather.  Two  miles  and 
an  hail* from  hence,  another  bay  occurs,  in  ascend- 
ing which  there  is  a  river  with  islands  of  rock  at 
its  entrance,  whose  rapidity  increases  in  proper, 
tion  to  the  distance  from  its  mouth  ;  and  renders 
it  necessary  to  have  recourse  to  setting  poles,  to 
push  the  canoe  up  the  stream.  For  fifteen  acres 
up  its  course  the  water  is  three  fathoms  deep,  but 
dccreuses  to  four  feet  in  the  rapid  parts.  The 
rocks  on  each  side,  are  at  least  forty  feet  in  alti- 
tude.  On  the  south  shore  the  land  rises  yet  more 
considerably,  and  gives  growth  to  forests  of  fine 
oak  timber.  Villiers  bay  is  about  two  miles 
wide  at  its  entrance ;  and  contains  from  six  to 
seven  fathoms  of  water,  with  a  clayey  bottom. 
Not  far  from  hence  there  is  yet  another  bay, 
whose  position  is  towards  the  south,  being  half  a 
mile  in  breadth,  with  five  fathoms  in  depth  of  | 
water.  The  land  here  assumes  a  bolder  aspect, 
rising  for  near  a  mile  of  extent,  into  cliffs  ot  up. 
wards  of  eighty  ieet  high,  and  afterwards  gradu* 
ally  declining.  The  soil  on  their  summits  is  ler- 
tik,  producing  woods  of  a  hard  iiaturj.  The  name  I 
of  the  last  mentioned  bay,  is  Hungry  bay,  or | 
J5aT/ff  de  la  Famine  ;  so  called  by  M  de  la  Barre,j 
Governor- general  of  Canada,  who,  in  1684,  on  an 
expedition  against  the  Iroquois,  lost,  in  this  siiu. 
atioii,  a  great  part  ot  his  army,  which  periincdl 
from  hunger  .Uiil  sicki'css.  A  cunsidculiie 
Stream  called  Black  river,   pours  iiocii  mto  tins 


other  isJ 
two  smi 
ing.     S' 
the  west 
river  Or 
from  the 
t)'-three 
nel  at  tf 
tvventy.f 
ral  small 
siderable 
river,  wl 
elevation 
mile  in  b 
the  dista 
foil,  whi 
feet  high 
of  the  f( 
with  the 
lar  rocki 
charmin^£ 
mind  of 
of  sensati 


LAKE    ONTARIO.  157 

bay,  and  about  two  leagues  lurilier  to  the  south- 
ward, another  branch  of  the  same  river  joins  its 
waters  with  the  lake.     The  channel  between  the 
first,  or  most  easterly  isle  of  Galloo,  and  the  south 
shore,  being  large,  with  from  eight  to  ten  fathoms 
of  water,    vessels   may   with  safety   be  steered 
through  it     To  the  w  estward  of  this  there  arc  two 
other  isles  of  the  same  name  ;  and  between  these, 
two  smaller  isles,  with  a  good  channel  hitcrvcn- 
ing.     Several  rivulets  occur,  in  coasting  betw  cen 
the  western  promontory  of  Hungry  bay,  and  the 
river  Onondago,  which  is  placed  near  thirty  miles 
from  thence,  and  falls  into  the  lake  in  latitude  for- 
t)'-three  degrees  and  twenty  minutes.     The  chan- 
nel at  the  entrance  is  twelve  feet  in  depth,  and 
twenty-four  within.     It  is  the  discharge  of  seve- 
ral small  rivers  and  lakes,  of  which  the  most  con- 
siderable  is  that  of  Oneida.     On  ascending  the 
river,  whose  channel  is  bounded  by  banks  of  great 
elevation,  a  waterfall,  eighty  feet  high,  and  half  a 
mile  in  breadth,  presents  itself  to  the  view.     At 
the  distance  of  two  acres  above,  there  is  a  second 
JiUl,  which,  although  not  more  than  twenty-iive 
feet  high,  is  beautifully  romantic.    The  brilliancy 
of  the  foaming  waters,   which  throw  themselves 
with  the  most  rapid  motion  over  the  perpendicu- 
lar rocks,  produces  an  effect  magnificent  and 
charming,  and  sheds  a  gleam  of  delight  over  the 
mind  of  the  wearied  traveller      Amid  tlie  variety 
of  sensatioii5»,  which  scenes  like  tliis  contribute  to 

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158  LAKE    ONTARIO. 

excite,  is  that  of  suqjrisc,  that  a  fluid  body  should 
for  ages  have  continued  to  move  with  such  a  vtlo- 
city,  without  a  failure  ot  the  sources  from  whence 
it  is  supplied. 

*'  Rusticus  expectat  dum  defluit  amnis :  ast  ilia 
**  Volvitur ;  et  volvetur  in  omne  volubilis  icvum." 

The  timber  in  this  vicinity  consists  principally 
of  white  and  red  oak,  and  chcsnut.  The  soil  above 
is  level,  and  of  a  fertile  nature.  Fort  Oswego  is 
erected  on  a  lofty  bank,  on  the  eastern  side  of  this 
river :  and  is  upwards  of  forty-five  miles  from 
Kingston.  The  old  fort,  of  which  no  vestige  re- 
mains, was  built  in  1722,  by  a  gentleman  named 
Burnet,  son  of  the  celebrated  bishop,  who  obtain- 
ed, for  this  purpose,  permission  of  the  Iroquois 
in  whose  territory  it  was  situated.  It  formed  a 
key  to  Hudson's  river,  on  the  north;  and  pro- 
tected, against  the  French,  the  trade  with  the  In- 
dians  who  inhabited  the  borders  of  the  lake.  The 
bur  between  the  spot  where  this  defence  stood, 
and  the  new  fort,  is  eighty  feet  in  width,  and 
tVvelve  feet  in  depth  The  fort  was  delivered  over 
to  the  American  government  in  1794.  It  was 
taken  by  the  French  in  1T56,  when  a  great  part 
of  the  garrison  was  massacred  by  the  savages. 
Beyond  the  fort,  for  about  a  mile,  the  depth  of 
water  is  from  four  to  five  fathoms,  augmenting 
further  up  to  nine  fathoms. 

•Pursuing  our  voyage,  we  arrived  at  a  large  bay 
with  a  beautiful  entrance  from  the  lake ;  and  as- 


/  ■ 


LAKE    ONTAniO.  159 

cendcd  in  quest  of  a  river,  but  Ibuiid  only  swanipy 
grounds.  This  bay  is  two  miles  deep,  having 
four  and  a  half  feet  of  water  on  the  bar  at  the  en- 
tranec,  and  from  three  to  four  iluhoms,  v\  ith  a 
muddy  bottom  within.  The  points  facin'^;  the 
lake  are  steep,  and  of  considerable  altitude,  com- 
posed of  strata  of  stone  and  earth  The  depth 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  sho;'e  is  eight  fathoms, 
with  a  sandy  bottom. 

The  bay  of  Goyogouin  lies  about  sixteen  miles 
to  the  westward  of  Onondago ;  and  exhibits  an 
aspect  of  fertility.  It  is  five  miles  in  extent,  and 
two  miles  and  a  half  in  width,  within  the  points 
of  entrance.  Near  the  west  point,  there  are  t\\  ehe 
and  thirteen  feet  water  on  the  bar :  but  the  centre 
has  no  more  than  seven  and  a  half  feet.  A  penin- 
sula well  wooded,  elevated,  and  in  the  form  of  a 
crescent,  advances  into  the  bay  :  and  on  entering 
it  on  the  left,  there  is  a  small  island.  No  river 
was  found  in  this  situation. 

Irondicpiet  bay  is  four  miles  to  the  eastward  of 
the  Genesee  river.  The  depth  at  the  distance  of 
three  miles  from  the  coast  is  eighteen  fathoms. 
The  entrance  of  the  bay  is  fiat,  w  ith  four  feet  of 
water  on  its  bar.  The  eastern  side  has  many 
branches ;  and  terminates  in  swamps.  The  ri- 
ver, at  the  southern  extremity,  discharges  itself' 
with  a  very  gentle  current. 

'I'hc  Genesee  or  Casconchiagon,  by  some  per- 
sons culled  the  New  River,  is  narrow ;  and  con- 


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160  LAKE    ONTARIO. 

tuins  not  much  water  at  its  noiith  on  Lnke  Ow. 
tario.  It  ho^\  ever  enlarges  itself  i.bcAe;  and  forms 
a  basin  of  sufficient  depth  to  float  vessels  of  two 
hundred  tons.  On  ascendnij:^  its  course  about 
two  leagues,  a  fall  of  sixty  feet  in  altitude,  and 
occupying  the  ^^hole  breadth  of  the  river,  ob- 
trudes itself  on  the  view,  and  commands  the  ad- 
miration  of  the  traveller.  It  pours,  \\  ith  plaintive 
sound,  over  a  rock  almost  perpendicular;  and, 
l)iukcn  amid  the  variety  of  its  movements,  pro- 
duces  a  curtain  of  resplendent  whiteness.  On 
pursuing  the  channel  still  higher  up.  many  rapids 
and  cascades  present  themselves  throughout  the 
numerous  sinuosities  of  its  course.  From  the 
source  of  this  river,  which  runs  upwards  of  three 
liimdred  miles,  the  Ohio  is  distant  only  thirty 
miles.  The  timber  prp^ly^ccd  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  mouth  of  the  Genesee,  consists  chiefly  of 
white  and  red  oak  and  chesnut.  The  soil  above 
the  fall  is  rather  flat,  and  is  of  a  fertile  nature. 

At  Pointe  mix  Tourtes  there  are  two  large 
swamps,  into  each  of  which  two  small  riveis  flow. 
A  stream  of  the  sam*^  name  as  the  point  is  forty 
feet  wide  at  its  entrance  :  and  the  land  around  it 
is  swampy.  The  river  aux  Baitf^  has  an  entrance 
of  forty  feet  wide,  with  three  feet  of  water,  on  a 
rocky  and  gravelly  bottom.  The  bed,  for  four 
miles  up  its  course,  is  three  fathoms  in  depth ; 
but  diminishes  by  degrees  until  cascades  are  net 
with.     It  flows  in  a  serpentine  course  from  the 


il 


J- 


\^-^: 


NIAGARA.  101 

south-west.  The  banks  produce  red  pine,  fit  for 
the  masts  of  small  vessels :  and  there  are  white 
oak-trees  near  its  embouchure.  Johnson's  creek 
is  about  three  miles  from  the  last  river :  and  its 
banks  are  well  clothed  with  ash,  aspin,  and  cher- 
ry-trees. 

The  entrance  of  aux  Eclitses  is  broad  and  shal- 
low, the  depth  being  sufficient  to  admit  bateaux 
only.  The  scenery  here  exhibited  is  agreeable* 
The  land  assuming  a  gentle  slope,  and  being  of 
great  fertility,  produces  large  oak  timber  without 
any  underwood.  Oii  exploring  about  two  miles, 
we  found  cascades,  the  first  of  which  forms  three 
branches,  resembling  sluices  of  considerable 
height.  At  the  bar  there  were  no  more  than  two 
feet  of  water :  and  at  half  a  mile  from  the  coast, 
the  soiuidings  were  three  fathoms. 

The  old  lort  of  Niagara,  which  was  erected  by 
the  French  in  1751,  is  placed  in  forty- three  de- 
grees and  fifteen  minutes  of  north  latitude,  on  an 
angle  which  is  formed  by  the  east  side  of  the  Saint 
Lawrence  and  the  vast  diffusion  of  its  waters  into 
the  lake.  It  is  erected  in  the  country  of  the  Iro- 
quois ;  and  was  for  a  series  of  years  considered  as 
the  key  to  those  inland  seas  of  fresh  water,  which 
occupy  so  vast  a  portion  of  this  part  of  North  A- 
merica.  The  ramparts  of  the  fort  are  composed  of 
earth  and  pickets ;  and  contain  within  them  a  lofty 
stone  building,  which  is  occupied  for  barracks 
and  for  store-rooms.    The  Americans  are  in  pos- 

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162  NIAGARA. 

session  of  it,  but  seem  to  take  no  measures  either 
for  its  repair  or  enlargement.  As  the  waters  of 
the  lake  make  progressive  encroachments  on  the 
sandy  bank  whose  summit  it  occupies,  the  foun- 
dations of  the  buildings  will,  in  a  short  time,  be 
undermined.  This  fort  was  taken  from  the  French 
in  1 759  by  Sir  William  Johnson, 

On  the  western  bank,  about  a  mile  higher  up 
the  river,  the  British  fort  is  situated  on  ground 
several  feet  more  elevated  thcjn  the  last.  It  is  like- 
wise constructed  of  earth  and  cedar  pickets  :  and 
the  buildings  contained  in  it  are  executed  with 
much  neatness,  taste,  and  accommodation.  On 
the  border  of  the  river,  and  beneath  the  fort,  there 
are  several  buildings  consisting  of  store-houses 
and  barracks,  one  of  which  is  called  Navy  Hall ; 
and  is  contiguous  to  a  wharf,  where  vessels  load 
and  unload.  A  swamp  in  the  vicinity  becomes, 
at  particular  seasons,  from  the  stagnated  vapours 
exhaled  from  it,  prejudicial  to  the  health  of  those 
whose  residence  is  by  the  river,  and  sometimes  to 
that  of  troops  in  the  garrison.  A  plain,  whose 
extent  in  every  direction  is  near  a  mile,  intervenes 
between  the  town  of  Niagara  and  Fort  George, 
the  name  of  the  fortress  already  described.  The 
houses  are  in  general  composed  of  wood,  and  liave 
a  neat  and  clean  appearance.  Their  present  num- 
ber may  amount  to  near  two  hundred.  The  streets 
are  spacious,  and  laid  out  at  right  aiigles  to  each 
Other,  so  that  the  town,  vvhea  completed,  will  be 


NIAGARA.  '        163 

healthful  and  airy.  On  Missisague  Point,  which 
is  on  the  west  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  river,  a 
light-house,  for  the  guidance  of  vessels  which  na- 
vigate the  lake,  has  lately  been  erected.  Near  this 
point,  white  fish  and  black  bass  are  caught  in  great 
abundance. 

In  proceeding  from  the  town  of  Niagara  to  the 
southward,  along  the  banks  of  the  great  river,  ma- 
ny attractions  combine  to  present  pleasure  and 
amusement  to  the  mind  of  an  observant  traveller. 
The  soil,  the  variety  of  situations,  and  the  improve- 
ments of  that  part  of  the  country,  seem  to  surpass 
every  impression  which  information  alone  might 
produce  in  its  favour.  The  population  is  already 
considerable,  and  is  rapidly  augmenting.  Fami- 
lies from  the  United  States  are  daily  coming  into 
the  province,  bringing  with  them  their  stock  and 
utensils  of  husbandry,  in  order  to  establish  them* 
selves  on  new  lands,  invited  by  the  exuberance  of 
the  soil,  the  mildness  of  the  government,  and  an 
almost  total  exemption  from  taxes.  These  peo- 
ple either  purchase  lands  from  the  British  subjects, 
to  whom  they  have  been  granted,  or  take  them 
upon  lease,  paying  the  rent  by  a  certain  portion  of 
the  produce. 

Many  farmers  from  the  neighbouring  states, 
who  are  wealthy,  procure  grants  of  their  own.  and 
taking  the  oaths  of  supremacy  and  allegiance,  be- 
come subjects  of  the  crown  of  Grea.  Britain 

Mta  born  and  educated  in  the  nortliern  states 


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164  NIAGARA. 

of  America,  are  of  the  greatest  utility  in  the  settle 
nient  of  a  new  country  ;  as  they  arc  endowed  with 
a  spirit  for  adventure,  activity,  industry,  and  per- 
severance,  rarely  to  be  equalled.  Nor  are  thcv 
delicient  in  the  pow  er  of  inventive  faculty,  particu- 
larly when  applied  to  mechanical  objects.  In  tra- 
velling, the  wagon  is  by  many  made  to  serve  the 
end,  not  only  of  a  house  during  the  journey,  but 
likeuise  of  a  vessel,  to  cross  the  rivers  which  are 
not  fordable.  The  seams  of  the  body  are  secured 
against  the  admission  of  water  :  and,  when  applied 
to  this  latter  purpose,  die  wheels  are  taken  off,  it 
is  conducted  by  rowing  to  the  opposite  shore : 
and  the  horses  and  cattle  are  made  to  follow  it  by 
•swimming.  The  settlers  who  bring  into  the  pro- 
vince  the  hii  est  property  in  money  and  stock,  ge- 
nerally come  from  the  back  parts  of  V  ir^nia,  and 
•^ven  from  the  Carolinas. 

In  the  use  of  the  axe  the  Americans  display  un- 
common dexterity ;  and  hew  down  the  largest 
trees  of  the  forests  w  ith  admiraljle  address  and  ex- 
peditran.  Retaining  no  attachment  for  any  par- 
ticular situation,  an  American  farmer,  who  is  not 
•of  the  first  class,  will  sell  his  lands,  atfter  having 
cleared  and  brought  them  to  a  state  of  cultivation, 
ii  he  can  procure  for  them  a  reasonable  profit  for 
his  toils.  He  then  decamps  ;  launches  into  the 
^oodj>  in  quest  of  a  new  possession  ;  and  erects 
another  habitation.  »  '  "^'"    ^^'  ^"  '-'^  '.''*'  '-^^ ' 

The  immense  tracts  of  woods,  filled  with  oak 


N^IACARA.  165 

timber,  which  every  where  present  themselves^ 
are  certain  indications  of  the  fertility  of  the  soil* 
Tlic  common  produce  of  the  fields  is,  in  general, 
from  thirty  to  forty  for  one  in  wheat  or  any  other 
grain.  And  portions  of  land  which  have,  for  up- 
wards of  sixteen  successive  years,  yielded  their 
harvest  without  the  aid  of  manure,  still  continue, 
with  forty  to  one,  to  reward  the  industry  of  the 
husbandman. 

The  winters  in  this  part  of  the  country  are  in- 
•onsiderable,  either  for  duration  or  severity,  the 
snow  seldom  remaining  on  the  ground  for  a  longer 
period  than  five  or  six  weeks. 

About  the  year  1800,  before  the  means  of  trans- 
port to  the  lower  province  became  lacilitated  and 
improved,  the  mhabitants  were  at  a  loss  to  dis- 
pose of  the  produce  of  their  farms.  Since  that 
period  many  thousand  barrels  of  flour,  quantities 
of  salted  beef  and  pork,  butter  and  cheese,  pot-ash, 
and  numbers  of  live  cattle,  have  annually  been 
conveyed  to  Lower  Canada,  through  the  rapids  and 
cascades  of  the  Saint  Lawrence,  upon  rafts  of  tim- 
ber, containing  from  uve  hundred  to  eight  hun- 
dred barrels  each,  and  upon  scows,  a  superior 
species  of  raft  constructed  of  plank,  without  re- 
ceiving from  the  waters  any  material  injury.  The 
conducting  of  that  mode  of  transport,  although  at 
first  difficult  and  unwieldy,  has  now  become  more 
familiar  :  and  immense  quantities  of  produce  con- 
tinue to  flow  every  year  into  the  lower  province. 


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166  NIAGARA. 

There  are  attached  to  settlements  on  the  bor- 
ders of  the  Saint  Lawrence,  advantages  of  trans- 
port  superior  to  those  of  any  inland  country  in 
America.  The  soil  is  unquestionably  of  the  first 
quality  ,  and  is  sufficiently  varied  by  swells  and 
ridges,  to  take  off  that  sameness  of  effect  which 
would  result  from  a  dead  level  country.  Winter 
wheat  is  produced  with  the  greatest  certainty. 
The  grain  is  heavier  and  more  plump  than  any 
that  is  raised  in  the  territories  of  the  United  States, 
except  such  as  border  upon  this  immense  river. 
Grass  is  very  natural  to  this  country  :  and  cuttle 
iattcn  in  summer  upon  the  wild  growth.  Hemp 
and  flax  are  produced  in  great  perfection.  The 
timber  consists  of  oak,  pine  in  all  its  varieties, 
sugar  and  curled  maple,  beech,  basswood,  hicko. 
ry,  black  and  white  ash,  sassafras,  black  and  white 
birch,  elm,  walnut-tree,  butternut-tree,  cherry, 
tree,  and  a  variety  of  other  woods. 

The  winter  season  is  employed  by  the  farmer 
in  making  staves  for  casks,  squaring  timber,  or 
preparing  plank  and  boards,  all  of  which  may  be 
disposed  of  to  advantage  at  Montreal.  In  the 
spring  the  timber  is  formed  into  rafts,  which  are 
loaded  with  pro^iuce,  and  conducted  down  the 
river  with  great  certainty,  at  any  period  during 
the  summer  season,  without  the  inconvenience  of 
waiting  for  a  freshet,  or  an  increase  of  the  v\  aters 
by  rains,  which  can  have  but  small  influence  on 
so  vast  a  body.     This  circumstance  alone  adds  a 


,.f-^:^>'>  ••' 


NIAGARA.  107 

value  to  the  establishments  on  its  borders  ;  for  on 
all  ottier  rivers,  except  those  of  the  lirst  magni- 
tude, those  who  mean  to  conduct  rafts  down  their 
stream  are  compelled  to  be  ready  at  the  mcmit-nt 
of  a  swell  of  the  waters;  and  if  they  be  so  unlor- 
tuiate  as  not  to  be  prepared,  an  opportunity  of 
carrying  to  market  the  productions  of  their  larnis 
becomes  lost  to  them  for  the  whole  year.  It  like- 
wise not  unfrequently  happens  with  many  rivers, 
that  the  spring  freshets  are  not  sufficiently  high 

I  to  render  it  safe  to  venture  down  them.  The  fir. 
mer  on  the  Snint  Lawrence  is  assured  he  can  j^eiid 
a  barrel  of  flour  for  four  shillings,  and  a  barrel 
of  potash  for  eight  shillings,   to  the  ship   which 

Iconics  from  Europe. 
In  many  branches  of  husbandry  the  settlers  of 

I  this  country  seem  to  display  a  superior  degree  of 
skill:  and  fields  of  corn  are  here  to  be  seen,  as 

I  X  ' 

I  luxuriant  and  finaas  in  any  part  of  the  universe. 
The  mode  of  commencing  a  settlement  is  by 
I  cutting  down  the  smaller  wood,  and  some  of  the 
large  trees ;  collecting  them  into  heaps ;  and  burn- 
ing them.  Some  of  the  remaining  trees  arc  gird- 
led, by  cutting  a  groo'/e  all  ai'ound  through  the 
bark,  to  impede  the  sap  from  mounting  :  and  thus 
deprived  of  nourishment,  the  branches  cease  to 
glow,  and  the  leaves  decay  and  fall  to  the  ground. 
Alter  passing  a  harrow  over  the  soil,  in  order  to 
Ituni  it  up,  the  grain  is  sown  :  the  harrow  is  again 
used :  and  thus  left  nithout  anv  further  trouble, 


mi  «'. ' 

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168  VIAGAR^. 

the  newly-cleared  ground  yields  a  copious  in. 
crease.  -        ■ 

A  stranger  is  here  struck  with  sentiments  of  re. 
gret  on  viewing  the  numbers  of  fine  oak-trees 
which  are  daily  consumed  by  fire,  in  preparing 
the  lands  for  cultivation. 

The  houses,  with  few  exceptions,  are  here  con* 
structed  of  wood,  but  with  a  degree  of  neatness 
anil  taste,  for  which  we  in  vain  might  look  among 
the  more  ancient  settlements  of  the  lower  pro- 
vince. 

The  improvements  of  every  description,  in 
which  for  a  few  years  past  the  province  has  been 
rapidly  advancing,  have  in  some  situations,  alrea- 
dy  divested  it  of  the  appearance  of  a  new-settled 
colony,  and  made  it  assume  the  garb  of  wealth, 
and  of  long-established  culture.  The  roads  in 
the  settled  parts  of  the  country  are,  in  the  summer 
season,  remarkably  fine :  and  two  stage  coaches 
run  daily  between  Niagara  and  Chippawa,  or 
Fort  Welland,  a  distange  of  eighteen  miles. 

The  scenery  from  Niagara  to  Queenstown  is 
highly  pleasing,  the  road  leading  along  the  sum- 
mit of  the  banks  of  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
rivers  in  the  universe.  And  on  ascending  the 
mountain,  which  is  rather  a  sudden  elevation  from 
one  immense  plain  to  another,  where  the  river  be- 
comes .ost  to  the*  view,  the  traveller  proceeds 
thrcjui2,h  a  forest  of  oak  trees,  until  he  becomes 
surprised  and  his  attention  is  arrested  by  the  talis 


'^:^>*^ 


qUEENSTOWN.  16^ 

presented  to  the  eye  through  openings  now  cut  in 
the  woods,  on  the  steep  banks  by  which  they  are 
confined. 

Queenstown  is  a  neat  and  flourishing  place, 
distinguished  by  the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  its 
situation.  Here  all  the  merchandise  and  stores 
for  the  upper  part  of  the  province  are  landed  from 
the  vessels  in  which  they  have  been  conveyed  from 
Kingston,  and  transported  in  wagons  to  Chippa- 
wa,  a  distance  often  miles ;  the  falls,  and  the  rapid 
and  broken  course  of  the  river,  rendering  the  na- 
vigation impracticable  for  that  space.  Between 
Niagara  and  Queenstown  the  river  affords,  in  eve- 
ry  part,  a  noble  harbour  for  vessels ;  the  water  be- 
ing deep,  the  stream  not  too  powerful,  the  anchor- 
age good,  and  the  banks  on  either  side  of  consi- 
derable altitude. 

The  mountain  already  noticed  is  formed  by  the 
land  assuming  a  sudden  acclivity  of  upwards  of 
three  hundred  feet  from  one  horizontal  plain  to 
anoiher ;  and  extends  from  east  to  west  for  a  con. 
sider.tble  way,  the  river  holding  its  course  through 
its  ( entre,  and  cutting  it  asunder.  The  perpen- 
dicular banks  on  either  side  are  near  four  hundred 
feet  in  height,  from  the  level  of  the  water  below 
to  their  sun  mit.  Their  strata  are  similar,  not  on- 
ly in  altitudes  but  m  substance.  A  little  way  be- 
low the  bank  on  which  the  town  is  placed,  there 
is  a  si)ot  rising  about  twenty  ttet  Irom  the  side  of 

the  river,  upon  whose  surface  a  quantity  ol  stones 


'I 


t 


'[ 


* 


li 


■,...•» 


|| 


'  I. 


11^0  ^illE    WHIRLPOOL 

is  placed,  which  appear  to  have  been  deposiictl 
there  for  a  series  of  years,  and  which  have  been 
evidently  formed  in  currents  of  water. 

Since  the  settlement  of  the  country,  the  river 
has  not  been  perceived  to  rise  to  that  height. 
These  circumstances  seem  to  afford  probable 
ground  for  conjecture,  that  the  stream  ^^'hich  now 
flows  through  the  deep  chasm  of  the  mountain, 
did  at  some  former  period,  throw  itself  from  near 
the  summit ;  and,  after  sweeping  away  the  rocks 
and  soil,  form  its  present  profound  and  rugged 
channel,  extending  upwards  of  nine  miles  from 
<the  precipice,  whence  the  wide  and  stupendous 
flood  continues  now  to  fall. 

In  tracing  the  course  of  the  river  higher  up 
from  Queenstown,  many  singular  and  romantic 
scenes  are  exhibited.  The  whirlpool,  which  is 
about  four  miles  from  that  place,  is  a  basin  formed 
by  the  current  in  the  midst  of  lofty  precipices 
clothed  with  woods.  Previous  to  its  entering  this 
bay,  the  stream  drives  with  awful  roar,  its  broken 
interrupted  waters  over  a  sudden  slope  upwards 
of  fifty  feet  in  height ;  and  thus  proceeds  foaming 
pttst  the  bed  it  afterwards  takes,  which  being  a- 
round  the  angle  of  a  precipitous  promontory,  its 
weight  and  velocity  oblige  it  to  pass  on,  and  to 
niiike  the  circuit  of  the  basin  before  it  can  flow 
through  that  channel.  It  has  apparently  made  an 
effort  to  break  through  the  bank  to  the  westwiird, 
but  the  rock  was  probably  too  solid.     The  stratft 


lALLS    Oi     MAGARA.  ^71 

10  the  northward  were  found  more  penetrable,  and 
through  these  it  has  forced  a  passage.  A  tide  ris- 
ing to  the  height  of  two  and  an  half  feet,  and  again 
falling  every  minute,  is  observable  all  around  tho 
basin.  This  phenomenon  may  be  produced  In 
the  impulse  communicated  to  it  from  the  torrent, 
which  causes  it  alternately  to  swell,  and  to  recoil 
from  the  beach. 

This  gulph  usually  contains  a  quantity  of  float- 
ing timber,  which  continues  to  revolve  in  the  ed- 
tly  about  once  in  half  an  hour  ;  and  will  some- 
limes  remain  in  this  state  for  months,  until  it  be 
drawn  off  by  the  current.  At  one  particular  part; 
all  floating  substances  are  made  to  rise  on  one  end, 
after  which  they  are  swallowed  down  by  the  vor- 
tex, and  for  a  time  disappear.    :  .;   .^i     vj  x 

The  falls  of  Niagara  surpass  in  sublimity  every 
description  which  the  pov.ers  of  language  can  af- 
ford of  that  celebrated  scene,  the  most  wonderful 
and  awful  which  the  habitable  world  presents.  Nor 
f?an  any  drawing  convey  an  adequate  idea  of  the 
magnitude  and  depth  of  the  precipitating  waters. 
By  tlie  interposition  of  two  islands,  the  river  is 
.separated  into  three  falls,  that  of  the  Great  Horse- 
shoe on  the  west  or  British  side,  so  denominated 
from  its  form,  and  those  of  Fort  Slausser  and 
Montmorenci,  on  the  eastern  or  American  side. 
The  larger  island  is  about  four  hundred  yards  in 
width,  and  the  small  island  about  ten  yards.  ')^\\t 
three  falls,  with  die  islands,  describe  a  crescent .' 


rid 


^x^^tAV^*   >( 


i-' 


■t  \ 


Mm  \ 


I'V 


\M 


If  '. 


17:2  FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 

and  the  river  beneath  becomes  considerablj 
contracted.  Tlie  breadth  of  the  whole,  at  the 
pitch  of  the  waters,  including  the  curvatures 
which  the  violence  of  the  current  has  produced 
in  the  Horse-shoe,  and  in  the  American  falls,  may 
be  estimated  at  a  mile  and  a  quarter  :  and  the  al- 
tiludc  of  the  Table  Rock,  from  whence  the  pre- 
cipitation commences,  is  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet. 

Along  the  boundaries  of  the  river,  and  behind 
the  fulls,  the  elevated  and  rocky  banks  are  every 
^vherc  excavated  by  sulphureous  springs ;  the  yi- 
triolic  acid  uniting  with  the  limestone  rock,  and 
forming  plaster  of  Paris ;  which  is  here  and  there 
scattered  amid  the  masses  of  stone  which  com- 
pose the  beach  beneath. 

These  excavations  extend  in  many  places  to  a 
distance  of  fifty  feet  underneath  the  summit  of  the 
bank, 

Castincr  the  eve  from  the  Table  Rock  into  the 
basin  beneath,  the  effect  is  awfully  grand,  magnifi- 
cent and  sublime.  No  object  intervening  between 
the  spectator  and  that  profound  abyss,  he  appears 
suspended  in  the  atmosphere. 

*  The  lofty  banks  and  immense  woods  vhich 
environ  this  stupendous  scene;  the  irresMioie 
force,  the  rapidity  of  motion  displayed  by  the  roll- 
ing clouds  of  foam ;  the  uncommon   brilli: '  cy 

•Apart  of  this  description  was  published  in  18Ul  .n  tlic  Sun, 
v^i  afterwards  copied  from  that  paper  into  the  Moniteur  at  Piri« 


.ll--v1 


irresiMii^ie 


k'ALLS    Oy    NIAGARA.  173 

aiiJ  variety  ot*coiourbaiitl<>»  ^Iwitics;  the  ceaseless 
iiuuiuescencc,  and  swiil  agitation  ot  the  diishing 
waves  below ;  the  solemn  and  tremendous  noise, 
with  the  volumes  oi"  vapour  darting  upwards  into 
the  ».ir,  which  the  simultaneous  report  and  sm  ke 
of  a  thousand  cannon  could  scarcely  ecjual ;  iiTC- 
sistibly  tend  to  impress  the  inuigin-»iion  \\itl»  sUch 
a  train  ot'subUme  sensations,  as  kw  otlier  combi- 
nations of  natural  ol)jects  are  capable  of  produc- 
ing, and  which  terror  lest  the  treacherous  rock 
crumble  beneath  tiie  leet  by  no  means  contributes 
to  diminish 

_  The  height  of  the  descent  of  the  rapids  above 
the  great  tail  is  tifty -seven  teet  eleven  hiciies  'I'ne 
distance  of  the  commencement  ol  the  rapids  above 
the  pitch,  measured  by  the  side  of  the  ihiand  is 
one  hundred  and  lorty.  eight  leet :  and  the  total 
altitude  from  the  bottom  oi  the  falls  to  the  top  of 
the  rapids,  is  two  hundred  and  seven  feet.  I  he 
projection  of  the  extreme  part  of  the  rabic  Rock 
is  tifty  feet  four  niches.  ,   ' 

"The  large  island  extends  up  the  river  about 
three  quarters  of  a  miie :  and  the  rapids  between 
that  and  the  w^estern  banks  are  much  diversified. 
In  one  situation  near  the  isiund,  there  is  a  full  of 
about  sixieen  icet  in  height,  the  vapour  irom 
which  is  distincti)  viaibie.  Several  bnian  isiaiids 
are  lormed  towards  the  west  side  of  the  rivtr. 

From  a  settlement  called  iiireh's  M  ';^,  on  level 
ground  below  tue  baak,  tne  rapids  ar^  eu^j^jiavcd 

'    p  2 


•hll 


14 


i> 


.■* 


-  -^'-»-*'^*—«^,  _^^,-*-  -  , 


■I 


j  I, ;-V  j  i 


I  »•  I 


174  FALLS    OF    NIAGAKA. 

to  great  advantage.  They  dash  from  one  rocky 
declivity  to  another,  and  hasten  with  foaming  fu- 
ry  to  the  precipice.  The  bank  along  whose  sum- 
mit  the  carriage-road  extends,  affords  many  rich, 
ahhough  partial  views  of  the  falls  and  rapids. 
They  are  from  hence  partly  excluded  from  the 
eye  by  trees  of  different  kinds,  such  as  the  oak, 
the  ash,  the  beech,  fir,  sassafras,  cedar,  walnut, 
and  tulip-trees. 

About  two  miles  further  down  the  side  of  the 
river,  at  a  situation  called  Bender's,  an  extensive 
and  general  prospect  of  the  falls,  with  the  rapids 
and  islands,  is  at  once  developed  to  the  eye  of  the 
spectator.  On  descending  the  bank,  which  in 
several  places  is  precipitous  and  difficult,  and  on 
emerging  from  the  woods  at  its  base,  a  wonderful 
display  of  grand  and  stupendous  objects  is  at  once 
expanded  to  the  view.  From  amid  immense  frag, 
ments  of  rock,  and  lacerated  trees  which  have  de- 
scended in  the  current  of  the  waters,  the  eye  is 
directed  upwards  toward  the  falls,  that  of  Fort 
Slausser  being  on  the  left,  and  the  Great  Horse- 
shoe fall  immediately  in  front.  On  the  right  is  a 
lofty  bank,  profusely  covered  with  diversity  of 
foliage  ;  beyond  which  the  naked,  excavated  rock 
discloses  itself.  As  the  river  here  contracts  to  the 
breadth  of  about  half  a  mile,  the  fall  on  the  Ame- 
rican side  becomes  nearest  to  the  eye  :  and  its  wa- 
ters tumble  over  a  rock  which  appears  to  be  per- 
pendicular, and  nearly  in  a  straignt  line  across  to 


FALLS    OF    NIAGARA.  175 

the  island,  the  curvatures  being,  from  the  point 
HOW  described,  not  perceptible.  Tlie  rock  is, 
however,  excavated ;  and  at  the  pitch  has  been 
worn  from  continual  abrasion  by  the  fall,  into  a 
serrated  shape,  whence  the  masses  of  foam  pour 
down  in  ridges  which  retain  their  figure  from  the 
summit  to  the  bottom.  Numbers  of  stones  which 
have  been  torn  away  from  the  precipice,  are  ac- 
cumulated throughout  the  whole  extent  below  ; 
and  receive  the  weighty  and  effulgent  clouds  of 
broken  waters,  which  again  dash  from  thence  in- 
to the  basin. 

The  Horse-shoe  fall  is  distinguished  not  only 
by  its  vastness,  but  by  the  variety  of  its  colours. 
The  waters  at  the  edge  of  the  Table  Rock  are  of 
a  brownish  cast ;  further  on  of  a  brilliant  white ; 
and  in  the  centre,  where  the  fluid  body  is  greatest, 
a  transparent  green  appears.  Around  the  pro- 
jection, which  is  in  the  form  of  a  horse-shoe,  the 
water  is  of  a  snowy  whiteness.  A  cloud  of  thick 
vapour  constantly  arises  from  the  centre ;  part  of 
which  becomes  dissolved  in  the  higher  regions  of 
the  atmosphere ;  and  a  part  spreads  itself  in  dews 
over  the  neighbouring  fields.  This  cloud  of  va- 
pour has  frequently,  in  clear  weather,  been  ob- 
served  from  Lake  Ontario,  at  the  distance  of 
ninety  miles  from  the  falls. 

The  bed  of  the  river  is  so  deep,  that  it  under- 
goes not  such  a  degree  of  agitation  as  the  recep- 
tion of  those  bodies  of  water  perpetually  pouring 


u\ 


'   J 


4s:^r^{j, 


:vn 


'»   ;?■ 


176  PALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 

d(3>vn  into  it  migiii  be  tiupposccl  to  produce.  Kx 
cepi  at  the  places  immediately  underneath  cae! 
ol  the  falls,  there  are  no  broken  billows  The 
stream  is  comparatively  tranquil :  but  the  water 
coiitniues,  tor  a  long  way  down  its  course,  to  re 
volve  in  numerous  whirlpools.  Its  colour  is; 
deep  blue.  Quantities  of  loam  float  upon  the  burJ 
face  ;  and  almost  cover  a  large  bay  lormed  be  J 
tw  een  projecting  points,  containing  several  insuj 
lated  rocks.  ..       . 

Proceeding  along  the  beach  to  the  basis  of  tl^ 
Table  Rock,  the  distance  is  about  two  miles :  and 
the  way  thither  is  over  masses  of  stone  which  hav 
been  torn  from  the  bank  above,  and  over  triel 
whicli  have  been  carried  down  tlie  falls,  and  havi 
been  deposited  in  the  spring  by  bodies  of  ice,  ii| 
situations  above  twenty  l<eet  in  height  from 
level  of  the  river.  • 

The  projection  of  the  Table  Rock,  it  has  IxeJ 
remarked,  is  fifty  feet :  and  between  it  and  th 
falls  a  lofty  and  irregular  arch  is  formed,  wliitj 
cxiends  under  the  pitch,  almost  without  intern 
tioji,  to  the  island.    To  enter  this  cavern,  boumiii 
by  the  waters  and  rock,  and  "'J  turn  the  view  tJ 
'jyards  the  falls,   the  woise,   the  motion,  and  tij 
vast  impulse  and  weight  exhibited,  seemtocauj 
every  thing  around  them  to  tremble;  and  atoiiJ 
occup)  and  astonish  the  mind.     Sudden  and  Ir 
que  ill  squalls,  accompanied  by  torrents  of  rain 
issue  irom  this  gloomy  cavern.     The  air  dra" 


,^^- 


FALLS    OF    NIAGARA.  177 

down  by  the  waters  is  in  part  reverberated  by  the 
rock,  and  thus  discharges  itself.         I         "^  ^ 

At  this  situation  is  illustrated  the  cfFect  of  an 
immense  mass  of  waters,  thrc-wn  from  a  prodigi- 
ous height,  after  being  forcibly  propelled.  The 
projectile,  counteracted  by  tl\e  gravitative  power, 
obliges  the  falling  body  to  describe  at  first  an  el- 
lipse, and  then  to  assume  the  perpendicular  direc- 
tion in  which  it  is  received  into  the  basin. 

The  salient  groups  in  which,  with  gradations 
almost  regular,  the  tumbling  waters  are  precipi- 
tated, excite  the  awe  and  admiration  of  the  spec- 
tator. The  eye  follows  with  delight  the  masses  of 
lustrous  foam,  varied  by  prismatic  hues,  and 
forming  a  wide  and  resplendent  curtain. 

About  half  a  mile  from  hence,  in  descending 
the  course  of  the  river,  and  behind  some  trees 
which  grow  upon  the  lower  bank,  is  placed  the 
Indian  ladder,  composed  of  a  tall  cedar  tree,  whose 
boughs  have  been  lopped  off  to  within  three  inch- 
es of  the  trunk,  and  whose  upper  end  is  attached 
by  a  cord  of  bark  to  the  root  of  a  living  tree.  The 
lower  eiid  is  planted  amid  stones.  It  is  upwards 
of  forty  feet  in  length ;  and  trembles  and  bends 
under  the  weight  ot  a  person  upon  it.  As  this  is 
the  nciirest  way  to  tl^e  rivcr-sidc,  many  people 
descend  by  the  ladder,  led  either  by  curiosit)  or 
for  the  purpose  of  s{  earinp^  fisn  whiLh  in  ine 
summer  are  found  in  great  abundance  m  this  vi- 
cinity. 


' »: 


'  \ 


Id 


'  •/ 


u 


'  ■,  <.. 


?J    :      ) 


ill 


17B  FALLS    Of    NIAGARA. 

The  spear  in  use  is  a  fork  with  t\\'o  or  tllrc^ 
prongs,  witji  moving  barbs,  and  fixed  to  a  long 
handle.  The  fisherman  takes  possession  of  u 
prominent  rock,  from  whence  he  watches  for  m 
prey  :  and  when  it  approaches  within  his  reach, 
he  pierces  it  with  his  instrument,  with  an  almost 
inevitable  certainty. 

The  village  of  Chippawa,  or  Fort  Welland,  \^ 
jiitnated  on  each  side  of  a  river  of  the  same  name, 
which  here  joins  the  Saint  Lavvrence.  A  wood 
en  bridge  is  thrown  across  this  stream,  over 
which  is  the  road  leading  to  Fort  Erie.  The 
former  fort  consists  only  of  a  large  block-house 
near  the  bridge,  on  the  northern  bank,  surround 
ed  by  lofty  pickets.  It  is  usually  the  station  of  a 
subaltern  ofiicer  and  twenty  five  men,  who  arc 
principally  engaged  in  conducting  to  Fort  Eric 
the  transport  of  stores  for  the  service  of  the  troops 
in  tly  upper  part  of  the  province,  and  for  the  eii- 
gineer  and  Indian  departments.  After  being 
conveyed  by  land  from  Queenstown,  the  provi- 
sions  and  other  articles  are  here  cmbarl:ed  in  ba- 
teaux.     '. 

There  are  in  the  village  some  mercantile  store 
houses,  and  two  or  three  taverns.  The  waters  o! 
the  Chippawa  are  always  of  a  deep  brown  colour ; 
and  are  very  unwholesome  if  used  for  culinary 
purposes.  They  enter  the  Suint  Lavvrence  aboui 
two  miles  above  the  falls :  aixl  although  they  an 
frequently  broken,  and  rush  into  many  rapid'?  ir 


['..       ! 


'*i 


Si.*. 


PALLS    OP    ^'lACAUA. 


179 


iheii*  course  thither,  they  seem  obstinately  to  re- 
sist being  mixed  with  the  purer  waters  of  that 
flood ;  and  retain  their  colour  in  passing  over  the 
precipice.  The  foam  produced  in  their  precipi- 
tation is  of  a  brownish  hue ;  and  forms  the  edge  of 
tlie  sheet  which  tumbles  over  the  Table  Rock. 
Their  weight,  and  the  depth  of  the  descent,  min- 
gle them  effectually  with  the  waters  in  the  basin 
beneath.  The  colour  of  the  Chippawa  is  derived 
from  that  river  passing  over  a  level  country,  in 
many  places  swampy,  and  from  quantities  of  de- 
cayed trees  which  tinge  it  with  their  bark.  It  is 
also  impregnated  with  bituminous  matter,  which 
prevents  it,  until  it  has  suffered  the  most  violent 
agitation  and  separation  of  particles,  from  incor- 
porating with  the  more  transparent  and  uncorrupt- 
ed  stream  of  the  Saint  Lawrence.  '    'i   :  •. 

Opposite  to  tlie  village  of  Chippawa  the  cur- 
rent becomes  so  powerful,  that  no  boat  can  be 
ventured  into  it,  without  imminent  danger  of  be- 
ing swept  away,  and  lost  in  the  rapids.  Between 
the  village  and  the  falls  there  are  three  mills ;  the 
lower  for  the  manufacture  of  flour ;  the  two  upper 
mills  which  are  near  to  each  other,  and  adjoining 
to  the  road,  are  for  the  purposes  of  sawing  tim- 
ber into  boards,  and  for  manufacturing  iron.  The 
I  latter  scheme  has  hitherto  failed  of  success.  The 
logs  for  the  saw-mill  are  conveyed  down  the  cur- 
rent to  this  situation  in  a  very  singular  manner. 
They  are  cut  upon  the  borders  of  the  Chippawa. 


I 


!i 


^    I 


r'.  i,l 


180  FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 

and  floated  down  to  its  mouth,  where  a  reservoir, 
formed  by  a  chain  of  hog-pens,  is  made  to  con. 
tain  them.  In  proceeding  downwards,  in  order 
to  avoid  being  drawn  into  the  vast  vortex  of  the 
falls,  small  poles  have  been  fixed  together,  from 
the  reservoir  to  the  milL  floating  at  the  distance  of 
ciglueen  or  twenty  feet  from  the  shore.  They  arc 
retained  in  their  places  by  poles  projectingfrom  the 
land :  and  thus  the  chain  of  poles,  rising  and  failing 
with  the  waters,  and  always  floating  on  the  surface, 
forms  a  species  of  canal,  into  which  the  logs  are 
separately  launched,  and  in  this  manner  carried 
from  the  reservoir  to  the  mill,  a  distance  of  more 
than  a  mile. 

In  the  vicinity  of  this  mill  there  is  a  spring  of 
water,  whose  vapour  is  highly  inflammable,  and  is 
emitted  for  a  time  with  a  considerable  degree  of 
force.  If  collected  within  a  narrow  compass,  it 
is  capable  of  supporting  combustion  for  near 
twenty  minutes,  and  of  communicating  to  \\ater 
placed  over  it  in  a  small,  confined  vessel,  the  de- 
gree of  boiling  temperature. 


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PALLS    €1>    NIAGARA. 


181 


.\ 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Sublime  subject  of  the  Falls  further  pursued — Lake 

£rte—-At,iherstburg' — the  Detroit'^ -Sandwich 

old  town  of  Detroit — beauty  and  fertility  of  the 
country — River  and  Lake  of  Saint  Claire — La 
Tranche^  or  Thames-~^settlcments  on  its  borders — 
Lake  Huron — Bay  of  Thunder — Michilimakifiac—' 
Lake  Michigan — Green  Bay — inhabitants — Saint 
Joseph — Cascades  of  Saint  Mary-~^address  of  the 
Indians — ancient  Hurons,  and  ether  native  tribes — 
Lake  Superior-^remarkable  transparency  of  its  wa- 
ters'-^Grand  PortagC'—new  establishment  on  the 
Kamanistigua, 

TO  those  who  are  admirers  of  the  picturesque 
beauties  of  Nature,  it  will  be  almost  unnecessary 
to  apologize  for  the  prolixity  of  description  with 
which  the  last  communication  was  filled.  The 
subject  of  the  latter  part  of  it,  upon  which  we 
have  already  so  long  dwelt,  is  at  once  noble  and 
unique.  Let  us  therefore  attempt  to  pursue  it 
r,till  further,  although  without  the  hope  of  being 
able  to  do  it  justice. 

The  Saint  Lawrence,  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Chippawa,  is  upwards  of  a  league  in  width ;  and 
is  passed  to  the  opposite  shore  in  boats  or  bateaux, 
about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  higher  up  than  the 
village,  and  by  the  lower  end  of  Navy  island. 
The  transport  of  goods  by  land  to  Fort  Slausser, 

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1S2  FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 

two  miles  above  the  east  side  ol  the  falls,  was  for- 
merly conducted  from  a  place  opposite  to  Queens, 
town.  In  passing  through  the  cultivated  grounds 
on  this  border  of  the  river,  immense  mounds  of 
earth,  thrown  up  by  multitudinous  colonics  of 
]arge  black  ants,  are  every  where  observable. 
The  rapids  on  this  branch  of  the  river,  although 
not  so  extensive^  are  nevertheless  equally  beau- 
tiful and  romantic  with  those  of  the  western 
branch.  A  spot  at  the  distance  of  fifty  yards 
from  the  pitch  affords  a  most  advantageous  and 
pleasing  display  of  a  scene,  which  in  every  point 
of  view  is  accompanied  with  sublimity.  Trees 
and  rocks  form  the  nearest  objects,  and  between 
these  and  the  islands  a  lively  picture  is  exhibited 
of  broken  rapids  dashing  over  the  slippery  rocks, 
which  are  hidden  beneath  the  foaming  torrents. 
Amid  the  sinuosities  of  the  pitch,  a  part  of  the 
American  fall  is  developed  to  the  view  of  the  spec- 
tator :  and  the  Montmorenci  fall  is  exposed  about 
half  way  down  its  depth.  The  other  j^arts  of  the 
eastern  fall  are  concealed,  whilst  a  portion  of  the 
waters  beneath  becomes  disclosed.  The  inequa- 
lities of  the  precipice,  which  have  been  formed 
]jy  tlie  current,  are  here  fully  discoverable.  Se- 
veral small  isles,  covered  with  woods,  appear  near 
the  central  island,  and  add  to  the  variety  of  the 
scene,  which  foliage  of  diversified  verdure,  over- 
topped  here  and  there  by  the  towering  cedar, 
contributes  to  enliven  and  to  adorn.   The  Horse- 


FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 


Ib^ 


shoe  fall  beyond  the  whole,  delights  the  mind  with 
the  rapidity  of  its  movements,  and  the  animated 
efFuigeiice  of  its  hues,  from  the  station  which 
wc  have  now  endeavoured  to  describe,  is  afforded 
the  most  perfect  idea  of  the  crescent  formed  by 
the  three  falls,  the  islands,  and  the  Table  Rock. 

To  descend  the  perpendicular  cliff  on  the  east* 
crn  bank  is  attended  with  difficulty,  and  vvith 
soi'ie  degree  of  peril.  Few  of  the  roots  and  vines 
which  formerly  hung  downwards  from  the  trees, 
any  longer  remain.  In  descending  the  craggy 
steep,  the  adventurer  must  cling  to  the  rock  with 
his  hands  and  feet,  moving  onward  with  great 
caution.  On  his  arrival  at  the  base  of  the  cliff,  he 
is  struck  by  a  developement  of  scenery,  yet  more 
awfully  stupendous  than  that  which  had  before 
been  presented  to  his  contemplation.  Here  na* 
ture,  agitated  by  the  struggles  of  contending  ele- 
ments, assumes  a  majestic  and  tremendous  wild- 
ness  of  form.  Here  terror  seems  to  hold  his  ha- 
bitation. Here  brilliancy,  profundity,  motion, 
sound,  and  tumultuous  fury,  mingle  throughout 
the  scene.  The  waters  appear  to  pour  from  the 
sky  with  such  impetuosity,  that  a  portion  is  thrown 
back  in  clouds  of  vapour.  The  mind,  expanded 
by  the  immensity  and  splendour  of  the  surround- 
ing objects,  is  disposed  to  give  issue  to  the  sen- 
sations of  awe  and  wonder  by  which  she  is  im- 
pressed, in  ejaculations  similar  to  that  of  the 
Psalmist  of  Israel,  "Great  and  marvellous  arf 
*'  thy  works  I'* 


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The  huge  fragments  of  rock ,  v  hich  have  been 
thrown  from  the  summit  of  the  precipice,  by  the 
irresistible  strength  of  the  torrent,  and  which  hitve 
iallen  upon  each  other  in  towering  heaps  beneath, 
suggest  to  the  imagination  an  idea  of  vhat  may 
take  place  previous  to  the  general  consummation 
of  this  terrestrial  scene,  v  hen  ancient  monuments 
of  miirble,  under  which  princes  of  the  earth  have 
ibr  ages  slept,  shall  be  burst  asunder,  and  torn  up 
from  their  foundations. 

Can  so  vast,  so  rapid,  and  so  continual  a  waste 
of  water  never  drain  its  sources  ?  These  are  in- 
cxliaustible :  and  the  body  which  throws  itself 
tiown  these  cliffs,  forms  the  sole  discharge  of  four 
immense  inland  seas. 

The  effect  produced  by  the  cold  of  winter  on 
these  sheets  of  water  thus  rapidly  agitated,  is  at 
once  singular  and  splendid.  Icicles  of  great  thick- 
ness and  length  are  formed  along  the  banks,  from 
the  springs  which  flow  over  them.  The  sources, 
impregnated  with  sulphur,  which  drain  from  the 
hollow  of  the  rocks,  are  congealed  into  transparent 
blue  columns.  Cones  are  formed  by  the  spray, 
particularly  on  the  American  side,  which  have  in 
several  places  large  fissures  disclosing  the  interi- 
or, composed  of  clusters  of  icicles,  similar  to  the 
pipes  of  an  organ.  Some  parts  of  the  falls  arc 
consolidated  into  fluted  columns :  and  the  river 
above  is  seen  partially  frozen.  The  boughs  of  the 
trees  in  the  surrounding  woods  are  hung  with 


FALLS    OF    NIAGARA.  185 

purest  icicles  formed  from  the  spray ;  and,  re- 
fleeting  in  every  direction  the  rays  of  the  sun, 
produce  a  variety  of  prismatic  hues,  and  a  lustre? 
almost  too  refulgent  to  be  long  sustained  by  the 
powers  of  vision. 

This  part  of  the  Saint  Lawrence,  which  is  call- 
ed the  Niagara  river,  issues  from  the  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  Lake  Erie ;  and  discharges  itself  into 
Lake  Ontario,  at  the  end  of  thirty-six  miles,  after 
undergoing  the  most  violent  agitations  through  an 
interrupted  and  sinuous  channel.  At  its  com- 
mencement from  the  fijrmer,  its  breadth  is  not 
more  than  half  a  mile,  but  it  l:)ecomes  afterwards 
enlarged,  and  separated  into  two  branches  by  an 
island  of  fifteen  miles  in  length.  The  current  is 
powerful :  and  the  navigation  for  vessels  is  ren- 
dered intricate,  by  innumeraWe  hidden  rocks. 
In  the  vicinity  of  Navy  island  there  are  two  small- 
er isles. 

The  western  bank  between  Ghippav/a  and 
Lake  Erie  is  almost  entirely  settled :  and  the 
road  is  level,  and  in  most  places  good.  The 
Americans  have  on  their  side  the  river,  a  road  ex- 
tending  from  Fort  Slausser  to  BirfFulo  creek,  a 
settlement  which  contains  several  Indian  and 
some  white  families.  At  a  spot  called  the  Black 
Rock,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  rapids,  a  fort  has 
been  traced,  and  partly  constructed,  within  thr 
limits  of  the  United  States. 

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186  LAKE    ERIE. 

Lake  Erie  Is  near  three  huiulred  miles  in  length, 
and  seven  hundred  and  ten  miles  in  circimifer- 
cnce.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  Erics  or 
Cats,  a  native  tribe  which  oncedv\elt  on  its  bor- 
ders. The  liiiidsciipe  at  the  entrance  exhibits  a 
pleasinj^  variety,  consisting;  of  water,  points  of 
land,  level  countries,  and  distant  mountains. 
The  coasts  are  clothed  with  oak,  ash,  chcsnut, 
apple,  and  cherry-trees.  The  south-east  shore 
abounds  in  game  and  wild  animals.  The  islands 
Ivhich  it  contains  are  Bass  islands,  Isle  Bois  blanc, 
Isle  Celeron,  Cunningham's  island,  East  Sister, 
Grose  isle,  Middle  island,  Middle  Sister,  Pointe 
Pelee  isle.  Saint  George's  island,  Ship  island, 
Sandusky  island,  Turtle  island,  and  West  Sister. 

The  old  fort  on  the  west  side  of  the  entrance  in- 
to the  lake,  consists  of  no  more  than  a  few  houses, 
a  block-house  of  logs,  with  some  habitations  for 
commercial  people,  and  one  or  two  store-houses. 
A  new  stone  fort,  in  the  form  of  a  quadrangle,  is 
now  constructing  on  rising  ground  behind  the 
block  hou'je.  A  company  of  soldiers  is  usually 
stationed  here,  and  the  men  are  chiefly  employed 
in  assisting  to  conduct  the  transport  of  stores* 
Two  vessels  in  the  service  of  the  British  govern^- 
ment  are  used  in  navigating  this  lake. 

The  bottom  of  the  lake  consists  of  lime-stone 
rock  of  a  blucish  colour,  with  which  are  mingled 
many  petrified  subtances,  animal  as  well  as  vege- 
table.    The  lake  is  much  exposed  at  its  norihern 


LAKE    ERI£«  187 

extremity,  to  gales  of  wind  i^hich  occasion  its 
waters  to  rise  to  a  very  considerable  height.  Ves- 
sels are  at  these  periods  in  some  danger  of  being 
driven  ashore,  their  cables  being  often  cut  asun- 
der by  the  sharp  and  flinty  edj^es  of  the  rocks 
which  compose  the  anclKjragc. 

At  ten  miles  and  a  half  from  the  fort,  in  pin'su- 
ing  the  northern  coast,  is  found  a  promontory 
which  advances  into  the  water  about  three  hun- 
dred and  fifty  yards,  and  is  named  Fointe  a  Be- 
neautj  or  Abino,  afibrding  for  vessels  a  safe  an-  ' 
chorage  in  its  neighbourhood.  From  hence  to 
the  grand  river  the  distance  is  twenty -four  miles  ; 
a  hill  in  the  form  of  a  sugar-loaf  intervenes,  and 
presents  a  good  land-markr  The  townships  in 
this  vicinity  are  rapidly  advancing  in  population 
and  improvement,  and  several  water-mills  have 
been  constructed.  The  Chenette,  or  river  Wave- 
ny ,  is  eighteen  miles  more  to  the  westward,  and 
Fointe  a  la  Bichey  now  Turkey  Point,  lies  about 
fourteen  miles  further  along  the  coast.  In  the 
townships  of  Woodhouse  and  Charlotteville, 
which  are  situated  on  this  part  of  the  lake,  there 
is  a  considerable  extent  of  country  thinly  timber- 
ed, whose  cultivation  is  facilitated  from  the  i\  unt 
of  underwood.  It  exhibits  more  the  appearance 
of  a  royal  forest  in  Europe  than  that  ol'  an  Ame- 
rican wilderness. 

Long  Point  is  a  peninsula  which  extends  itself  ■. 
into  tbe  water  for  a  distance  of  twenty  miles,  se-» 


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parated  almost  fi'om  the  main  land,  tlie  isthmus 
being  little  more  than  eighteen  feet  in  breadth.  In 
advancing  towards  the  south-east,  it  forms  an  el- 
lipse, and  travellers  in  canoes,  in  order  to  avoid  a 
length  of  coast  so  circuitous,  carry  their  vessels 
across  the  neck,  to  which,  if  the  shoals  be  added, 
the  breadth  is  about  forty  paces.  The  waters  at 
certain  seasons  flow  over  this  neck,  and  insulate 
Long  Point.  This  promontory  is  now  called  the 
North  Foreknd,  and  forms  a  considerable  bay. 
On  the  grand  river  already  mentioned,  a  village 
of  the  Iroquois,  or  Mohawks,  is  situated ;  and 
between  that  and  Cliarlotteville,  on  the  liake,  a 
good  road  is  cut  through  the  country.  From 
Long  Point  t?o  Pointeaux  Peres^  now  called  Lan- 
guard,  the  dastai^ce  i&  upwards  of  seventy  miles* 
La  Barbue,  la  Tontiy  and  several  smaller  streams^ 
flow  between  these  promontories.  The  banks  ot 
the  lake,  for  the  greatest  part  of  this  way,  are  ele- 
vated.  Point  Pelee,  which  is  about  forty  miles 
from  Languard,  forms  a  considerable  projection 
into  the  lake,  and  is  the  most  southerly  spot  of  all 
the  British  territories  on  the  continent  of  North 
America:  on  its  west  side  is  Pigeon  B&y,  beyond 
which  are  several  settlements  established  by  Ame- 
rican loyalists.  From  the  latter  p«Hnt  to  Maiden, 
at  the  entrance  of  the  Detroit',  the  distance  is 
about  thirty  miles .  The  river  aux  Cedre&  an(J 
another  stream  run  between  these  places.  ''" 
The   fort  of  Amherstburg  is   placed  in  the 


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LAKE    ERIE.  189 

township  of  Maiden,  opposite  the  isle  au  Boh 
blanc  ;  for  the  latter,  a  small  detachment  of  sol- 
diers is  sent  from  the  former,  to  command  the 
east  channel  of  Detroit.  The  anchorage  near  the 
main  shore  is  safe  :  and  wharfs  have  been  con- 
structed, and  storehouses  and  dwellings  erected. 
The  fort  has  never  been  completed ;  as  it  was 
laid  out  on  a  scale  much  too  considerable  for  so 
remote  a  situation, 

Miamis  river  empties  itself  into  a  bay  of  the 
same  name,  at  the  south-west  end  of  Lake  Erie. 
It  was  upon  the  banks  of  this  river,  at  a  short  dis- 
tance from  its  mouth,  that  a  fort  was  constructed 
in  1794,  and  a  garrison  posted  in  it,  to  stop  the 
progress  of  General  Wayne,  who,  with  an  army 
of  Americans,  was  marching  against  the  fort  of 
Detroit.  Some  of  the  sources  of  this  river  ar6 
not  far  from  the  Wabache,  which  falls  into  the 
Ohio. 

The  navigation  of  Lake  Erie,  whose  greatest 
depth  does  not  exceed  fifty  fathoms,  is  frequently 
more  tedious  than  that  of  the  other  lakes,  on  ac- 
count of  the  changes  of  wind  that  are  required  to 
carry  a  vessel  through  it,  and  to  enter  the  strait, 
which  runs  nearly  from  north  to  south.  In  some 
of  the  beautiful  isles  at  its  mouth  there  are  remark- 
able caverns,  abounding  in  stalactites. 

The  strait  for  a  considerable  way  upwards,  is 
divided  into  two  channels  by  Grose  isle,  A  low, 
narrow  and  marshy  island,  near  four  miles  long, 


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1*90  THE    DEVROir. 

next  presents  itself:  and  on  the  eastern  coast  of 
the  main  land  the  town  of  Sandwich  is  situated, 
which  was  laid  out  for  the  reception  of  British  set- 
tlers and  traders,  who,  agreeably  to  the  treaty  of 
commerce  and  navigation,  concluded  between  the 
government  of  Great  Britain  and  that  of  the  Uiii- 
ted  States,  made  their  election  of  continuing  sub. 
jects  of  the  former.  This  place  has  increased  in 
population  and  improvements  with  wonderful  ra. 
pidity.  The  jail  and  district  court-house  are 
here  erected  :  and  as  lots  were  distributed  gratis 
to  the  first  persons  who  constructed  dwelling, 
houses,  the  town  soon  became  flourishing.  On 
the  banks  of  the  strait  the  settlements  are  frequent, 
particularly  on  the  w  estern  or  American  border  : 
adjoining  to  almost  every  house  tliere  is  an  or- 
chard. The  improvements  are  extensive,  and 
Executed  with  taste.  Peaches,  grapes,  apples, 
and  every  other  species  of  fruit,  are  here  produ. 
ced  in  the  greatest  perfection  and  abundance. 
The  lands  on  either  side  yield  in  fertility  to  none 
on  the  continent  of  America  :  and  this  territory 
fnay  not  improperly  be  stiled  the  garden  of  tlie 
North.  In  passing  through  the  strait,  when  the 
fruit-trees  are  in  blossom,  the  scene  is  gratifying 
and  rich.  In  the  vicinity  of  Sandwich  a  mission 
of  the  Hurons  is  established. 

The  old  town  and  fort  of  Detroit,  which  in 
1796  wT»s  transferred  to  the  government  of  the 
United  States,  is  situated  on  the  western  border 


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VH£    WETBOIT,  191 

©f  the  river,  about  nine  miks  below  Lake  Suint 
Claire.  It  contained  upwards  of  two  hundred 
houses  ;  the  streets  were  regular ;  and  it  had  a 
range  of  barracks  of  a  neat  api>earance,  with  a  spa- 
cious parade  on  the  southern  extremity.  The 
fortifications  consisted  of  a  stockade  of  cedar- 
posts  ;  and  it  was  deiended  by  bastions  made  of 
earth  and  pickets,  on  which  were  mounted  pieces 
of  cannon  sufficient  to  resist  tlie  hostile  efforts 
of  the  Indians,  or  of  an  enemy  unprovided  with 
artillery.  The  garrison  in  times  of  peace  consist- 
ed of  about  three  hundred  men,  commanded  by 
r.  field-officer,  who  discharged  also  the  functions 
of  civil  magistrate.  The  whole  of  this  town  was 
lately  burnt  to  ashes,  not  a  building  remaining  ex- 
cept one  or  two  block-houses. 

In  the  month  of  July  1762,  Pontiac,  a  chief  of 
the  Miamis  Indians,  who  preserved  a  deep-rooted 
hatred  to  the  English,  endeavoured  to  surprise  the 
garrison  of  Detroit,  with  an  intention  of  massa- 
cring the  whole  of  the  inhabitants.  But  an  acci- 
dental discovery  having  been  made  of  his  plot,  he 
and  his  people  were  spared  by  the  commandant, 
who  had  them  in  his  power,  and  were  permitted 
to  depart  in  fafety.  Far  from  entertaining  any 
sentiment  of  gratitude  for  the  generous  conduct 
which  had  been  shewn  him,  Pontiac  continued 
for  a  considerable  time  to  blockade  the  place :  and 
several  lives  were  lost  on  both  sides  by  frequent 
skirmishes.  ' 


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1&^  LAKE    SAINT    CLAIRE. 

The  "btrait  above  Hog  inland  f)c comes  enlarged, 
and  i'Diis  Lake  S^.int  Ciaire,  whoi^e  d  .ancter  is 
twenty-six  miles,  but  whose  depth  is  inconF.ider- 
ablc.  Its  islands  are  Chenal  ecarte,  Harsen's 
island,  Hay  island,  Peach  island,  and  I  hoinp- 
soi.  s  island.  On  the  western  side  of  this  lake 
were  two  numerous  villages  of  natives,  not  iar 
from  each  other.  The  first  of  these  called  Hu- 
ron Tsonnontatez,  was  the  same  which,  having 
long  wandered  towards  the  North,  lormerly  fix- 
ed itself  at  the  cascades  of  Saint  Mary  and  at 
Michilimakinac.  The  second  was  composed  of 
Pouteouatamis.  On  the  right,  somewhat  higher 
up,  there  was  a  third  village,  consisting  of  the 
Outaouais,  inseparable  companions  of  the  Hurons, 
ever  since  both  these  tribes  were  compelled  by 
the  Iroquois  to  abandon  their  native  territories. 

The  lake  gives  a  passage  to  the  waters  of  the 
three  immense  lakes  beyond  it,  receiving  them 
through  a  long  channel,  extending  from  north  to 
south,  called  the  river  Saint  Claire.  The  river  la 
Tranche,  or  1  hames,  disembogues  its  waters  on 
the  south-east  side ;  its  banks  are  varied  by  natu- 
ral  meadows  and  tracts  of  wood- lands.  The  pro- 
jected  town  of  Chatham  is  designed  to  be  placed 
on  a  fork  of  this  stream,  about  fifteen  miles  from 
its  lower  extremity,  and  is  intended  as  a  depot 
for  building  vessels.  Its  greatest  disadvantage  is 
a  bar  across  its  embouchure,  in  lake  St.  Claire : 
but  this  is  of  sufficient  depth  for  vessels  of  a 


smaller  description,  and  ior  tliosc  of  a  larger  size 
when  lightened. 

A  village  of  Moravians,  under  the  p;uidance  of 
four  missionaries  from  the  United  Brethren,  is 
placed  twenty  miles  above  the  intended  site  of 
Chatham.  I'hey  established  themselves  in  that 
situation  with  a  design  of  converting  the  Indi.ms : 
and  their  conduct  is  peaceable  and  inofiensixe. 
Their  chief  occupation  is  in  cultivating  their 
corn-fields,  and  making  maple  sugar.  A  chapel 
is  erected  in  the  village.  Not  far  from  hence 
there  is  a  sprhig  of  pretroleum. 

In  proceeding  upwards,  the  sinuosities  of  tho 
river  are  frequent,  and  the  summits  of  the  banks 
are  rather  elevated,  but  not  broken  ;  c)n  ciihcr 
side  are  villages  of  the  Delawars  and  Chippawas. 
Somewhat  higher  up,  at  the  confluence  of  t\\  o 
forks  of  this  river,  is  the  site  of  which  General 
Simcoe  made  choice,  for  a  town  to  be  named 
London.  Its  position,  with  relation  to  the  lakes 
Huron,  Erie,  and  Ontario,  is  centrical ;  and  a- 
round  it  is  a  fertile  and  inviting  tract  of  territory. 
It  communicates  with  lake  Huron  by  a  northern, 
or  main  branch  of  the  same  river,  and  a  small 
portage  or  carrying- place.  r 

Oae  of  the  branches  of  the  Thames  is  not  far 
distant  from  the  Ouse,,  or  Grand  River.  But  the 
prospect  of  being  enabled  to  embrace  the  advan* 
taues  of  this  inland  navigation  can  only  bccontem* 
plated  at  a  distance.     A  period  of  many  years 

R 


hi 


,..*..- 


/:i!' 


I  *: 


(   ; 


1-''.M. 


194  LAKE    HURON. 

iniist  necessarily  elapse  before  the  population  and 
improvements  shall  have  attained  that  progressive 
state  of  prosperity,  which  will  enable  the  inhabi- 
tants to  bestow  attention  and  ex  pence  on  the 
modes  of  facilitating  the  more  interior  communi- 
cation. 

Along  the  banks  of  the  Thames  there  are  now 
*;cveral  rich  settlements  :  and  new  establishments 
are  every  week  added  to  this,  as  well  as  to  other 
parts  of  the  neighbouring  country,  by  the  emigra- 
tion of  wealthy  farmers  from  the  United  States, 
-who  bring  with  them  their  stock,  utensils,  and  the 
money  received  for  the  sale  of  the  lands  they  pos- 
sessed. 

Level  grounds  intervene  to  break  the  uniformi- 
ty which  would  predominate  on  this  river,  were 
its  borders  all  of  equal  height.  These  situations 
were  formerly  cultivated  by  native  tribes.  On 
tlie  east  side  of  the  fork,  between  the  tw  o  main 
branches,  on  a  regular  eminence,  about  forty  feet 
al)ove  the  water,  there  is  a  natural  plain,  denuded 
of  woods,  except  where  small  groves  are  intersper- 
sed ;  affording  in  its  present  state  the  appearance 
of  a  beautiful  park,  on  whose  formation  and  cuU 
ture,  taste  and  expence  had  been  bestowed. 

Lake  Huron  is,  in  point  of  magnitude,  the  se- 
cond  sea  of  fresh  waters  on  the  continent  of  Ame- 
rica, and  it  may  be  added,  on  this  terraqueous 
globe  Its  form  is  triangular :  its  length  is  two 
hundred  and  fiity  miles :  and  its  circumference, 


•  ti 


«*, 


i... 


LAKE    HURON.  193 

including  the  coasts  of  the  bays,  is  one  thousand 
one  hundred  miles.  The  islands  v\  hich  it  contains 
are,  La  Cloche,  Duck  islands,  Fiat  islands.  Isle 
la  Crosse,  Isle  Traverse,  Manitoualin  islands, 
Whitewood  island,  Michilimakinac,  Nibish  is- 
land, Prince  William's  islands,  island  of  Saint 
Joseph,  Sugar  island,  Thunderbay  islands  on  the 
south,  and  a  multitude  of  isles  on  the  north  coast* 

The  channel  between  lakes  Saint  Claire  and 
Huron  is  twenty-five  miles  in  length  ;  and  pre- 
sents on  either  side  a  scene  no  less  fertile  than 
pleasing.  It  runs  almost  in  a  straight  direction, 
lined  by  lofty  forest-trees,  interspersed  with  tie* 
gant  and  extensive  meadows,  and  studded  with 
islands,  some  of  which  are  of  considerable  size. 

On  the  south  side  of  lake  Huron  is  the  bay  of 
Saguina,  whose  mouth  is  eighteen  milej  in  width, 
whose  length  is  forty-five  miles,  and  into  whose 
bottom  two  rivers  empty  themselves.  On  that 
nhich  comes  from  the  south,  the  Outaouais  have 
<i  village ;  and  the  soil  is  reputed  to  be  fertile. 
Six  miles  above  the  bay,  two  considerable  rivers 
present  themselves. 

The  bay  of  Thunder  lies  to  the  eastward  of 
Cabot's  head  ;  and  is  nine  miles  in  width,  but  of 
small  depth.  It  is  so  denominated  from  the  I're- 
quent  thunder-storms  which  there  take  place, 
generated  by  vapours  issuing  from  the  land  in  its 
vicinity.  Travellers,  in  passing  this  part  of  the 
hke,  feardly  ever  escape  the   encounter  of  these 


t 


.  i: 


"V 


if  'U^?  i      1   i) 


•  i 


ii' 


r. 


IV(J  LAKE    HURON. 

awful  phenomena.  The  storm  at  first  appe.irs 
like  a  small  round  cloud,  which  enlarges  as  it  ra- 
pivlly  apprc^aches,  and  spreads  its  gloorn  over  a 
considerable  extent.  The  vivid  lightnings  flu^h 
their  forked  fires  in  every  direction  :  and  peals  of 
thunder  roar  and  burst  over  the  head,  with  a  noisje 
more  loud,  and  more  tremendous  in  this,  than  in 
any  other  part  of  North  America. 

Michilimakinuc  is  a  small  island,  situated  at  the 
north-^vest  angle  of  lake  Huron,  towards  the  en- 
trance  of  the  channel  which  forms  the  communi- 
cation  with  lake  Michigan,  in  latUjKle  forty, 
five  degrees,  ibrty- eight  minutes,  tlmty-four  se- 
conds, and  upwards  of  a  thousand  miles  from 
Quebec.  It  is  of  a  round  form,  irregularly  ele. 
vated,  and  of  a  barren  soil.  The  fort  occupies 
the  highest  ground ;  and  consists  of  four  wooden 
block-hou§es  forming  the  angles,  the  spaces  be- 
tween them  being  filled  up  with  cedar  pickets. 
On  tl\e  shore  below  the  fort,  there  are  several 
storehouses  and  dwellings.  The  neighbouring 
part  of  the  continent,  which  separates  lake  Supe- 
rior from  lake  Huron,  derives  its  name  from  this 
island.  In  1671,  Father  Marquette  came  thither 
with  a  party  of  Hurons,  whom  he  prevailed  on 
io  form  a  settlement.  A  fort  was  constructed, 
and  it  afterwards  became  an  important  post.  It 
was  the  place  of  general  assemblage  for  all  the 
French  who  went  to  traffic  with  the  distant  na- 
tions.    It  was  the  as)  lum  of  all  the  savagea  wiiQ 


'iil 


-'-%  ,..„ 


,^'*"  ■-••-  ».•>• 


LAKE    HtrHON.  197 

Ciiine  to  exchange  their  iurs  for  merchandise* 
Wlien  individuals  belonging  to  tribes  at  \\ar  with 
each  other,  came  thither  and  met  on  commercial 
adventure,  their  animosities  were  suspended. 

The  natives  who  reside  there  have  no  occasion 
to  betake  themselves  to  the  iatigues  of  the  chace, 
in  order  to  procure  a  subsistence.  When  they 
are  inclined  to  industry,  they  construct  canoes  of 
the  bark  of  the  birch-tree,  which  they  sell  for  from 
two  hundred  to  three  hundred  livres  each.  They 
catch  herrings,  white  fish,  and  trout,  of  from  four 
to  five  l©et  in  length,  some  of  which  weigh  seven- 
ty pounds.  This  fish,  which  is  bred  in  lake 
Michigan,  and  is  known  by  the  name  of  Michili- 
makinac  trout,  affords  a  most  delicious  food.  It 
is  extremely  rich  and  delicate :  and  its  fat,  re- 
sembling the  nature  of  spermaceti,  is  never  cloy- 
ing to  the  appetite. 

The  young  men,  notwithstanding  the  abun- 
dance of  food  derived  from  the  quantities  of  fish, 
employ  a  great  part  of  the  summer  in  the  chace. 
for  which  they  travel  to  the  distance  of  forty  or 
fifty  leagues,  and  return  loaded  with  game.  In 
autumn  they  again  depart  for  the  wniter  chace, 
which  IS  the  most  valuable  and  productive  for  the 
furs ;  and  return  in  the  spring  with  skins  of  ben- 
vers,  martins,  foxes,  and  other  animals,  with 
bear's  grease,  and  with  provision  of  the  flesh  of 
that  animal  and  of  stags,  buffaloes,  and  elks,  cured 
by  smoKe,    : 

R  2 


r 


/I'' 


,i  1 


» i 


I 


198  LAKE    HUHOV. 

Thtir  tradition  couccrniu^  the  name  of  this  lit. 
tie  barren  island  is  curious.  They  say  tli.it  Mi. 
chapous,  the  chief  of  spirits,  sojourned  lont^  in 
that  vicinity  They  believed  that  a  mountain  on 
the  hf  )rdei"  of  the  lake  was  the  place  of  his  abode : 
and  they  called  it  by  his  name.  It  was  hcie,  say 
they,  that  he  first  instructed  man  to  fabricate  nets 
for  taking  fish,  and  where  he  has  collected  the 
greatest  quantity  of  these  finny  inhabitants  of  the 
V  aters.  On  the  island  he  left  spirits,  named  Ima- 
kinakos,  and  from  these  aerial  possessors,  it  has 
received  the  appellation  of  Michilimakinac.  This 
place  came  into  possession  of  the  American  go- 
vernment  in  1796,  the  period  of  delivering  over 
all  the  other  forts  within  its  boundaries. 

The  strait  between  lakes  Huron  and  Michigan, 
or  the  lake  of  the  Illinois,  is  fifteen  miles  in  length, 
and  is  subject  to  a  flux  and  reflux,  which  are  by 
no  means  regular.  The  currents  floM'  with  such 
rapidity,  that  when  the  wind  blows,  all  the  nets 
which  are  set  are  drifted  away  and  lost :  and  some- 
tin!(  s  during  strong  winds  the  ice  is  driven  against 
the  direction  of  the  currents  with  much  violence. 

\Vhtit  the  savages  in  those  quarters  make  a 
feast  offish,  iliey  mvoke  the  spirits  of  the  island; 
thank  them  for  their  bounty  ;  and  entreat  them  to 
coniiiiue  their  protection  to  their  tamilies.  They 
dciiumd  oi  tiitm  to  preserve  their  nets  and  canoes 
from  the  swelling  and  destructive  billov  b,  w  r^en 
the  lakes  are  agitated  by  storms.     All  who  assist 


n... 


LAKE   MIClVXCAfr.  199 

in  the  ceremony  len^hcii  their  voices  top^ther, 
which  is  ail  act  of  gratitude.  In  the  observe. ict  of 
this  duty  of  their  religion,  they  were  formerly  ve- 
ry punctual  and  scrupulous :  but  the  Frencli  nil- 
iied  them  so  much  u}>ou  the  subject,  tliat  they  be- 
came ashamed  to  practise  it  openly.  They  arc 
still,  however,  remarked  to  mutter  something, 
which  has  a  reference  to  the  ceremony  which  tlidr 
forefiithers  were  accustomed  to  perform  in  honour 
of  their  insular  deities. 

Lake  Michigan  is  two  hundred  and  sixty  miles 
in  length,  and  nine  hundred  and  forty  five  in  cir- 
cumference. Its  discharge  is  into  Lake  Huron, 
through  the  strait  already  mentioned :  and  it  coii- 
sequently  forms  a  part  of  the  Saint  Lawrence.  Its 
breadth  is  about  seventy  miles  On  the  right  of 
its  entrance  are  the  Beaver  islands,  and  on  the  left 
those  of  the  Pouteouatamis,  in  travelling  from 
south  to  north.  The  eastern  coast  is  full  of  rivers 
and  rivulets  near  to  one  another,  which  have  their 
source  in  the  peninsula  that  separates  Lake  Huron 
from  this  lake.  The  principal  of  these  are  Mar- 
quette's river,  the  Saint  Nicholas,  the  great  river 
whose  source  is  near  the  bay  of  Saguina  on  Lake 
Huron,  the  Raisin,  the  Barbue,  the  Maramey,  the 
Black  river,  on  whose  borders  there  is  much  gin- 
seng, and  the  rivet*  Saint  Joseph,  which  is  the  most 
considerable  of  the  whole,  and  which,  through  its 
various  sinuosities,  tnay  be  ascended  near  a  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles.    At  sixty  miles  from  m 


I U  id 


;:M\i 


im^. 


.'% 


200  LAKE  MICHIGAN. 

mouth,  the  French  had  a  fort  and  mission,  nejir  r 
viii.ige  of  the  Pouteouatamis.  At  nine  or  ten 
miles  from  the  Saint  Joseph  are  found  the  sources 
of  the  Theakiki,  navigable  for  canoes,  and  which 
falls  into  the  river  of  the  lUinois.  The  western 
coast  of  tlie  lake  has  been  but  little  frequented. 
Towards  the  north  is  found  the  entrance  of  the 
bay  des  Puans,  a  name  given  by  the  French  to  a 
savage  nation  residing  there :  but  it  is  more  ge- 
nerally distinguished  by  the  appellation  of  the 
Green  bay-  Upon  its  borders  stood  a  French  fort: 
and  a  mission  called  Saint  Francois  Xavier  was 
established  in  this  vicinity.  Tlie  bottom  of  the 
bay  is  terminated  by  a  fall  of  water,  beyond  which 
there  is  a  small  lake,  called  Winnebago,  receiving 
the  Fox  river  flowing  from  the  west.  After  mak- 
mg  a  portage  of  two  miles,  the  traveller  may  pro- 
ceed  along  its  course  to  the  Ouiscousin,  which 
unites  with  the  Mississippi. 

The  waters  in  Green  bay  have  a  flux  and  re- 
flux :  and  from  the  quantity  of  swampy  grounds, 
and  of  mud  sometimes  left  exposed  to  the  sun, 
and  causing  an  unpleasant  vapour,  it  originally  re- 
ceived the  name  of  Piiante,  This  agitation  of  the 
waters  proceeds,  doubtless,  from  the  pressure  x)f 
winds  on  the  centre  of  the  lake.  The  bay  is  one 
hundred  and  twenty  miles  in  depth  :  and  its  width 
is  from  twenty-four  to  thirty  miles  at  its  entrance^ 
which,  by  the  islands  already  noticed,  is  separa- 
ted into  several  channels.     On  the  borders  of  the 


LAKE  MICHIGAN.  201 

ilalhominis  river,  whose  waters  flow  into  this  bay, 
tliere  is  a  village  composed  of  natives  collected 
from  several  tribes,  who  employ  themselves  in 
fishing  and  in  cultivating  the  ground.  They  Lire 
gratified  by  entertaining  passengers,  a  quality 
which  among  savages  is  in  the  highest  estimation ; 
for  it  is  the  custom  of  the  chiefs  to  bestow  all  they 
possess,  if  they  wish  to  acquire  any  pre-eminent 
degree  of  consideration.  The  predominating  pro- 
pciisity  of  these  savages  is  hospitality  to  strangers, 
who  find  here,  in  every  season,  all  kinds  of  re- 
freshment which  these  territories  produce :  and 
the  principal  return  which  is  expected,  is  a  com- 
mendation of  their  generosity. 

The  Sakis,  the  Pouteouatamis,  and  Malhomi- 
nis,  here  reside.  There  are  also  about  four  cabin* 
or  families  of  sedentary  Nu.-'ouaicks,  whose  nation 
was  exterminated  by  the  Iroquois.  The  Oueni- 
bcgons,  or  Puans,  were  formerly  the  possessors 
of  this  bay,  and  of  a  great  extent  of  the  neigh- 
bouring country.  The  tribe  was  numerous,  for- 
midable, and  fierce.  They  violated  every  princi- 
ple of  nature.  No  stranger  was  suffered  to  enter 
their  territory  with  impunity.  The  Malhominis, 
who  dared  not  to  complain  of  their  tyranny,  were 
the  only  people  with  whom  they  had  any  i inter- 
course. They  believed  themselves  invincible. 
They  declared  war  on  every  tribe  they  could  dis- 
cover, although  their  arms  consisted  only  of  hatch- 
ets, and  of  knives  formed  of  stone.  They  refused 


.1/ 


iry-^r^-X 


« 


-  \ 


,'  t» 


ii;  I  11), 


!i  II 


^HiM-^ 


fi 


^)2  LAKE    MICHIGAN', 

to  have  any  commerce  with  the  French.  The 
Outaouais  sent  to  them  embassadors,  whom  they 
had  the  ferocity  to  devour.  This  iiibtance  of  a- 
trocity  roused  with  indignation  all  the  neighbour- 
ing  tril^es,  who  joined  with  the  Outaouais ;  and, 
receiving  arms  from  the  French,  made  frequent 
irruptions  on  the  Puans.  The  numbers  of  the 
latter  became  thus  rapidly  diminished.  Civil 
wars,  at  length,  arose  amongst  them.  They  re- 
proached  each  otlier  as  the  cause  of  their  misfor- 
tunes, by  having  perfidiously  sacrificed  the  Ou. 
taouaisian  deputies,  who  were  bringing  them 
knives  and  otlier  articles  for  their  use,  of  whose 
viiiue  they  v/ere  ignoi'ant.  When  they  found 
themselves  so  vigorously  attacked,  they  were  con- 
strained  to  unite  into  one  village,  where  they  still 
amounted  to  five  thousand  men.  They  formed 
against  the  Outagamis  a  party  of  five  hundred 
warriors,  but  these  perished  by  a  tempest  which 
iirose  during  their  passage  on  the  waters.  Their 
AMiemies  compassionated  their  loss,  by  saying  that 
that  the  gods  ought  to  be  satisfied  with  such  rei- 
terated punishments  ;  and  ceased  to  make  war 
against  the  remainder  of  their  tribe.  The  scoui-g- 
es  w  ith  which  they  had  been  afflicted  awoke  ncA, 
however,  in  their  minds,  a  sense  cl  the  turpitude 
of  tiieir  conduct :  and  they  pursued  with  renova- 
ted vigor  the  practice  of  their  former  enormitiesi 
The  norih  co  st  of  L  ike  Huron  is  intersccU:d 
'by  several  rivers  which  flow  thitlier.     A  chain  ol] 


t  I 


»   A 


•  I    •■  •.*Ete>.^>AaM*-<ito~» 


lAKE    HURON.  203 

islands,  called  the  Manitoualins  extends  about  a 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  east  to  west,  oppo- 
site to  the  lower  or  eastern  extremity  of  which 
French  river  diseuibogues  itself.  The  eastern- 
i  cojist  of  the  lake  is  studded  with  isles,  and  cut  by 
rivulets  and  rivers,  which  descend  from  several 
small  lakes,  the  most  considerable  of  which  is 
Toronto,  already  described  under  the  name  of 
jSimcoe :  this,  it  has  been  remarked,  has  a  com- 
iimnication  with  Lake  Ontario,  after  a  very  short 
I  carrying-place. 

Lake  Michigan  is  separated  from  Lake  Supe- 
Irior  by  a  tongue  of  land,  at  least  ninety  miles  in 
length  and  tv/enty-four  in  breadth.  The  sterility 
of  the  soil  renders  it  incapable  of  affording  suste- 
nance to  any  inhabitants.  It  may  be  denominated" 
an  island;  as  it  is  intersected  by  a  river,  commu- 
nicating with  both  of  these  lakes.  Saint  Joseph 
is  an  island  of  about  sevent\  -five  miles  in  cireum- 
ference,  situated  near  the  Detour,  or  passage  for 
vessels,  at  the  northern  extremity  of  Lake  Huron, 
it  was  made  choice  of  in  1795  as  a  military  post, 
when  Michilim  ikinac  should  be  n©  longer  inpos* 
session  of  the  British  government.  The  fort, 
which  is  one  of  the  handsomest  of  the  kind  in 
North  America,  is  situated  at  the  southern  extre- 
mity, upoaa  peninsula  about  fifty  feet  above  fli€ 
[level  of  tlie  water,  and  connected  w  ith  the  iblund 
Ibj  a  luw  isthmus  of  sand,  about  three  hunarcd 
bids  in  breadth.  .  ^  ' 


'n. 


i 


\  M 


I  r 


^  ^: 


•^ 


ill 


li 


,1 


204  CASCADES    OF    ST.    MAR'i'. 

A  compaii)  oi  iiiiantry,  arid  some  .irtillery  soK 
dicrs,  are  there  siationed.  Althou;ih  more  than 
a  dej^ree  of  latitude  to  the  southward  of  Quebec, 
the  winters  are  of  equal  duration  and  severity  as 
at  that  place.  The  soil  consists  of  a  black  mould, 
of  abc>ut  fifteen  inches  in  depth,  ui)on  a  stratum 
of  sand,  and  is  not  of  a  very  fertile  nature.  The 
route  for  canoes  is  between  the  Manitoualins  is- 
lands, also  the  northern  coast  of  Saint  Joseph,  and 
north  main-land,  in  their  vo}  age  upwards  to  Ltikc 
Superior.  The  navigable  channel  for  vessels  is 
through  the  centre  of  the  lake,  and  between  the 
western  extremity  of  the  Manitoualins  islands  and 
the  south-west  main-land,  through  a  narrow  pas- 
sage called  the  Detour,  and  between  the  small  isle 
la  Crosse  and  the  same  coast.  The  intricate  na- 
vigation between  the  islands  renders  a  guide  ne. 
cessary,  '  ' 

Nibish  island  intervenes  between  Saint  Joseph 
and  the  western  shore.  Sugar  island  is  long  and 
narrow,  bending  towards  the  north  in  form  of  a 
crescent,  and  causing  an  enlargement  of  the  waters 
between  it  and  the  continental  coast.  This  is 
culled  Lake  George. 

The  falls,  or  rather  cascades,  of  Saint  Mary,  are 
nothing  else  than  a  violent  current  of  the  waters  of  | 
Lake  Superior,  which,  being  interrupted  in  their  I 
dt^cent  by  a  number  of  large  rocks,  that  seem  toj 
diNpiite  the  passage,  form  dangerous  rapids  of 
three  milej>  iu  length,  precipitating  their  white 


I 


■H 


-m   \-: 


artillery  sol 
h  more   than 
i  of  Quebec, 
d  severity  iis 
black  mould, 
)on  a  stratum 
nature.     The 
anitoualins  is- 
nt  Joseph,  and 
wards  to  Lake 

for  vessels  is 
J  between  the 
lins  islands  and 

a  narrow  pas- 
nthe  small  isle 
le  intricate  na- 
?rs  a  guide  ne- 

n  Saint  Joseph 
nd  is  long  and 

1  in  form  of  a 
nt  of  the  waters 
oast.     This  is 

Isaint  Mary,  are 
1  of  the  waters  of 
Irupted  in  their 

Ls,  that  seem  to 
Irous  rapids  of| 

ng  their  white 


CASCADES    OF    ST.  MARY.  205 

and  broken  waves  one  upon  another  in  irregular 
gradations.  These  cascades  are  nine  miles  be- 
low the  entrance  into  Lake  Superior,  and  aboul 
fifty  miles  from  the  Detour,  already  mentioned. 

The  whole  of  this  distance  is  occupied  by  a  va- 
riety of  islands,  which  divide  it  into  separate  chan- 
nels, and  enlarge  its  width,  in  some  situations,  be- 
yond the  extent  of  sight. 

It  is  at  the  bottom  of  the  rapids,  and  even  a- 
mong  their  billows,  which  foam  with  ceaseless 
impetuosity,  that  innumerable  quantities  of  excel- 
lent fish  may  be  taken,  from  the  spring  luitil  the 
winter.  The  species  which  is  found  in  the  great- 
est abundance  is  denominated  by  the  savages,  at- 
ticameg,  or  white  fish.  The  Michilimakinac 
trout>  and  pickerell,  are  likewise  caught  here. 
These  aftbrd  a  principal  means  of  subsistence  to 
a  number  of  native  tribes. 

No  small  degree  of  address,  as  well  as  strength, 
is  employed  by  the  savages  in  catching  these  fish. 
They  stand  in  an  erect  attitude  in  a  birch  canoe  : 
and  even  amid  the  billows,  they  push  with  force 
to  the  bottom  of  the  waters,  a  long  pole,  at  the  end 
of  which  is  fixed  a  hoop,  with  a  net  in  the  form  of 
a  bag,  into  which  the  fish  is  constrained  to  enter. 
They  watch  it  with  the  eye  when  it  glides  among 
the  rocks;  quickly  ensnare  it ;  and  drag  it  into 
tlic  canoe.  In  conducting  this  mode  of  fishing 
much  practice  is  required ;  as  an  inexperienced 


■M 


*,.'! 


U1 


i... 


(1. 


^^w 


'■;^ 


!206  CASCADES    OF    ST.  MARTt 

person  may,  hy  the  eflforts  which  he  is  obliged  tb 
make,  overset  the  canoe,  and  inevitably  perish. 

The  convenience  of  having  fish  in  such  abun- 
dance attracts  to  this  situation,  during  summerj 
several  of  the  neighbouring  tribes,  who  are  of  an 
erratic  disposition,  and  too  indolent  for  the  toils  of 
husbandry.  They,  therefore,  support  themselves 
by  the  chace  in  winter,  and  by  fishing  in  summer. 
Hic  missionaries  stationed  at  this  place  embraced 
the  opportunity  of  instructing  them  in  the  duties 
of  Christianity :  and  their  residence  was  distin- 
guished by  the  appellation  of  the  Mission  of  the 
Falls  oi*  Saint  Mary,  which  became  the  centre  of 
several  others. 

The  original  natives  of  this  place  were  the  Po' 
irouiting  Dach-Irint^  called  by  the  French,  saiil- 
tenrs,  as  the  other  tribes  resorted  but  occasionally 
thither.  They  consisted  only  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  men ;  these,  however,  afterwards  united 
themselves  with  tliree  other  tribes,  who  shared  in 
coiTimon  with  them  'the  rights  of  the  territory, 
Thtir  residence  was  here  established,  except  when 
they  betook  themselves  to  the  chace.  The  na- 
tives named  Nouquet,  ranged  throughout  the 
southern  borders  of  Lake  Superior,  which  was 
their  natal  soil.  The  Outchibons,  with  the  Ma- 
ramegs,  frequented  the  northern  coasts  of  the  same 
lake,  which  they  considered  as  their  country.  Be- 
sides these  four  tribes,  there  were  several  others 
dependent  oa  this  mission.    The  Achiligouans, 


►r,  which  was 


Cascades  of  st.  mary.  207 

tlic  Amicours,  and  the  Missasagues,  came  like- 
wise to  fish  at  the  fall  of  Saint  Mary,  and  to  hunt 
on  the  isles,  and  on  the  territories  in  the  vicinity 
of  Lake  Huron. 

The  ancient  Hurons,  from  whom  the  lake  de- 
rives its  name,  dwelt  on  its  eastern  confines.  They 
were  the  first  natives  in  this  quarter  who  hazarded 
an  alliance  with  the  French,  from  whom  thev  re- 
ceived  Jesuit  missionaries,  to  instruct  them  in  the 
christian  religion.  These  Europeans  were  stilcd 
by  the  natives,  Masters  of  Iron :  and  they  w  ha 
remained  in  those  regions  taught  them  to  be  for- 
midable to  their  enemies  Even  the  Iroquois 
courted  the  alliance  of  the  Hurons,  who,  with  too 
great  facility,  relied  on  the  pretended  friendship 
and  professions  of  that  guileful  people.  The  Iro- 
quois at  length  found  means  to  surprise  them,  a.  d 
to  put  them  in  disorder,  obliging  some  to  fly  to 
Quebec,  and  others  towards  difllrent  quarters. 

The  account  of  the  defeat  of  the  Hurons  spread 
itself  among  the  neighbourhig  nations :  and  con- 
sternation seized  on  the  greater  part  of  them. 
From  the  incursions  which  the  Iroquois  made 
when  least  expected,  there  was  no  longer  any  se- 
curity. The  Nepicirenians  fled  to  the  north.  'I'he 
Siiulteurs  and  the  Missasagues  penetrated  to  the 
westward.  The  Outaouais  and  some  other  tribes 
bordering  on  Lake  Huron,  retired  to  the  south. 
The  Hurons  withdrew  to  an  island,  where  their 
te  disaster  only  tended  to  endear  the  remcnf*^ 


ii»'j 


H 


1  m 


"1 ......,..-,., 


1 


^' 


^H. 


U'A 


i,l:.' 


I  f  i,r 


m 


' 


I 


>!  ij  ■ 


!;  1 


208  CASCADES    OP    ST.  MARY. 

brance  of  their  commerce  with  the  French,  ^yhich 
was  now  frustrated.  After  an  attempt,  attended 
with  peril,  they,  however,  again  found  their  way 
to  these  Europeans.  By  a  second  irruption  of  the 
Iroquois,  they  w  ere  driven  from  their  island,  and 
took  refuge  among  the  Pouteouatamis.  Part  of  the 
Hurons  descended  to  Quebec;  and  formed  a  set- 
tlement to  the  northward  of  that  place,  of  which 
an  acc'ount  has  already  been  given. 

Tlie  tribes  frequenting  the  northern  territories 
are  savage  and  erratic,  living  upon  fish  and  the 
produce  of  the  chace  ;  often  upon  the  inner  bark 
of  trees.  A  kind  of  dry  grey  moss,  growing  on 
the  rocks,  called  by  the  Canadians,  tripe  de  ro- 
chersy  not  unfrequently  supplies  them  w  ith  food. 
They  ensnare  and  shoot  beavers,  elks,  cariboos, 
and  hares  of  an  uncommon  size.  The  lofty 
grounds  abound  in  blue  or  huckle-bcrries,  which 
they  collect  and  dry,  to  eat  in  times  of  scarcity. 
But  as  these  regions  are  in  general  sterile,  many 
of  the  inhabitants  perish  by  famine. 

Those  whose  hunting  grounds  are  towards  the 
jiorth-west,  are  more  favoured  by  the  productions 
of  the  soil.  A  species  of  rice,  and  wild  oats,  grow 
nuturally  in  the  marshes,  and  supply  the  deficien- 
cy of  maize.  The  forests  and  plains  are  filled 
"with  bears  and  cattle  :  and  the  smaller  islands, 
lukes,  and  rivers,  abound  with  beavers.  These 
people  frequented  the  vicinity  of  Lakes  Suj)erior 
and  Nipissing,  to  traffic  with  the  natives  who  had 


/: 


!vv,r,-  ..' 


CASCADES    OF    ST.    MARY.  209 

!ntercourse  with  the  French.  Fhcir  principal 
commerce  was,  however,  at  Hiiclson*s«bay,  where 
they  reaped  a  greater  profit.  They  were  piei^sed 
to  receive  iron  and  kettles  in  exchange  lor  their 
worn  peltry,  of  the  value  of  which  they  were  for 
some  time  ignorant. 

The  Ncpicirenians  and  the  Amehouest  inhabi- 
te  the  coasts  of  Lake  Nipissing.  A  great  part 
of  them  were  connected  with  the  tribes  of  the 
north,  from  whom  they  drew  much  peltry,  at  an 
hiconsiderable  value.  They  rendered  themselves 
masters  of  all  the  other  natives  in  those  quarters, 
until  disease  made  great  havock  among  them  ; 
and  the  Iroquois,  insatiable  after  human  blood, 
compelled  the  remainder  of  their  tribe  to  betake 
themselves,  some  to  the  French  settlements,  o- 
thers  to  Lake  Superior,  and  tj  the  Green  bay  on 
Like  Michigan 

The  nation  of  the  Otter  inhabited  the  rocky 
caverns  on  Lake  Huron,  where  they  were  shelter- 
ed by  a  labyrinth  of  islands  and  of  capes.  They 
subsisted  on  Indian  corn,  on  fish,  and  on  the  pro- 
duce of  the  chace.  They  were  simple,  but  cou- 
rageous ;  and  had  frequent  intercourse  with  the 
nations  of  the  north.  The  Missasagues,  or  Esti- 
apjhics,  are  situated  on  the  same  lake,  on  a  river 
generally  called  by  the  latter  name  They,  as  uell 
as  the  Saulteurs  of  Saint  Mary,  spread  themselves 
along  the  borders  of  Lake  Huron,  \"hei"c  they  pro^ 
£Ui:c  the  bark  of  trees  to  form  canoes,  and  to  cour 

3  2 


!  /ill 


'1 


■11 


1 


'  * 


M 


^  il  I 


^' 


n 


1  «"^ 


t  ) 


•ilO  CASCADES  OF   ST.   MARY. 

Struct  their  huts.  The  v\  aters  are  so  transparent, 
that  fish  can  be  seen  at  the  depth  of  thirty  feet. 
\\  hiist  the  women  and  children  are  collecting  ber- 
ries, the  men  re  occupied  in  darting  sturgeon. 
When  their  grain  is  almost  ripe,  they  return 
heme  On  the  approach  of  winter  they  resume 
their  stations  near  the  lake,  for  the  purpose  of  the 
chace ;  and  forsake  it  in  the  spring,  to  plant  their 
Indian  corn  and  to  fish  at  the  falls. 

Such  are  the  occupations  of  these  people,  who, 
if  they  were  acquainted  with  economy,  might  live 
in  abundance,  which  but  a  small  portion  of  labour 
is  here  required  to  secure.  But  they  are  so  ha- 
bituated to  gluttony  and  waste,  that  they  take  no 
thr.ught  for  their  subsistence  on  the  following  day. 
There  are  thus  several  who  perish  from  hunger. 
They  seldom  reserve  any  provisions :  and  if  a 
part  happen  to  be  left,  it  is  from  their  being  inca- 
pable of  consuming  the  whole.  When  a  stran- 
ger arrives  among  them,  they  will  offer  him  their 
kst  morsel  of  food,  to  impress  him  with  a  persua- 
sion that  they  are  not  in  indigence.  The  forefa- 
thers of  these  natives  were  brave  :  but  they  have 
been  so  long  in  the  enjoyment  of  indolence  and 
tranquillity,  that  they  have  degenerated  in  valour, 
«nd  make  war  only  on  the  beasts  of  the  forest,  and 
the  inhabitants  of  the  waters. 

The  Hurons,  more  prudent,  look  forward  to 
the  future,  and  support  their  families.  As  they  | 
are  in  general  sober,  it  is  seldom  they  are  subject ! 


I ' 


tfASCARES  OF  ST.    MARV*.  2U 

to  distress.  The  tribe  is  artful,  political,  proud^ 
aiid  of  greater  extent  of  capacity  than  niost  of 
the  other  natives.  They  are  liberal,  grave,  de- 
cent in  discourse,  in  which  they  express  them* 
selves  with  accuracy,  insinuating,  and  not  subject 
to  be  duped  in  their  dealings. 

The  Outaouais  have  endeavoured  to  assume 
the  manners  and  maxims  of  this  people.  I  hey 
were  formerly  extremely  rude,  but,  by  inter- 
course with  the  Hurons,  they  have  become  more 
intelligent.  They  imitated  their  valour;  and 
made  themselves  formidable  to  all  the  nations 
with  whom  they  were  at  enmity,  and  respected 
by  those  with  whom  they  were  in  alliance. 

The  factory  of  the  company  of  merchants  of 
Montreal  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  cascades  of 
Saint  Mary,  on  the  north  side,  and  consists  of 
store-houses,  a  saw-mill,  and  a  bateau-yard.  The 
saw- mill  supplies  with  plank,  boards,  and  spars, 
all  the  posts  on  Lake  Superior,  and  particularly 
Pine  point,  which  is  nine  miles  from  thence ;  has 
a  dock-yard  for  constructing  vessels ;  and  is  the 
residence  of  a  regular  master-builder,  with  several 
artificers.  At  the  factory  there  is  a  good  canal, 
with  a  lock  at  its  lower  entrance,  and  a  causeway 
for  dragging  up  the  bateaux  and  canoes.  TImj 
vessels  of  Lake  Superior  approach  close  to  the 
head  of  the  canal,  where  there  is  ^  wharf;  those 
of  Lake  Huron  to  the  lower  end  of  the  cascades. 
Tii^ese  rapids  are  much  shorter  on  the  north  than 


;     V 


I 


,1" 


I  ! ' 


Jl'J  LAKE    SUI*EPIffR.         •> 

on  the  south  side,  a  cucii instance  occasioned  hy 
the  'nterposition  of  small  islands.  The  company 
has  lately  caused  a  good  road  to  be  made,  along 
which  their  merchandise  is  transported  on  wheel- 
ed carriages  from  the  lower  part  of  the  cascades 
to  the  dcp6ts.  The  houses  are  here  constructed 
of  squared  timber  clap-board^'d,  and  have  a  neat 
appearance.  ' 

On  the  north  side  of  the  rapids,  about  six  fa- 
milies consisting  of  Americans  and  domiciliated 
Indians,  ire  established.  The  taxes  imposed  by 
the  government  of  the  United  States  upon  all 
kinds  of  merchandise,  are  unfavourable  to  the  com- 
merce of  its  subjects  with  the  Indians  m  these  re- 
gions. 

Lake  Superior,  to  which  was  formerly  given 
the  name  of  Tracey,  and  likewise  that  of  Conde, 
oomposes  a  collection  of  fresh  waters  of  the  first 
magnitude  in  the  known  world.  Although  seve- 
ral posts  in  its  vicinity  were  long  occupied  by 
French  traders,  and  by  missionaries,  yet  only  a 
Small  portion  of  geographical  information  was  ob- 
tained through  their  means.  The  length  of  this 
lake  is  four  hundred  miles,  and  its  circumference 
one  thousand  five  hundred  and  twenty  miles.  It 
is  subjected  to  frequent  storms  :  and  a  swell  si- 
milar to  that  of  the  tide  of  the  ocean,  i  oils  in  upon 
its  coasts.  The  na\  igation  is  here  dangerous  when 
the  w  ind  blows  with  strength :  and  travellers,  for 
this  reason  y  keep  near  to  tlie  north  shore,  which 


%    !« 


>Ti)T 


have  a  neat 


LAKE    SUPERIOR.  213 

bcingborderedtliroughoiit  by  barren  rocks  of  con- 
siderable elevation,  nature  has  provided  at  no 
great  distances  from  each  other,  a  variety  of  small 
harbours,  and  places  of  safe  retreat. 

Pine  point  and  Point  au  Foin  form  the  entrance 
into  the  lake.  White-fish  point  is  on  the  south 
shore,  opposite  to  which,  on  the  north  coast,  and 
at  the  distance  of  fifteen  miles  across,  there  is 
amine  of  copper,  formerly  worked  by  the  French. 
That  metal  is  here  found  in  native  purity^ 
uncontaminated  by  mixture  with  any  extraneous 
substances.  • ,      ■       - 

The  cape,  about  nine  miles  from  hence,  is  in 
latitude  forty -six  degrees,  thirty,  two  minutes, 
fifty -eight  seconds ;  and  in  longitude  eighty  four 
degrees,  nineteen  minutes,  fifty- seven  seconds. 
The  traveller,  on  passing  White-fish  point,  is  a- 
grecably  astonished  by  the  developement  of  a  vast 
and  unbounded  expanse  of  cr}'stalline  waters.  A 
great  evaporation  must  here  necessarily  take 
place  :  and  in  summer  this  is  dissolved  in  the 
dry  and  warm  atmosphere ;  except  during  the 
prevalence  of  an  easterly  wind,  which  by  the  cool- 
ness and  humidity  it  carries  with  it,  condenses 
the  vapour  into  fogs,  and  collects  it  into  torrents  of 
rain.  The  waters  of  this  lake  appear  to  be  sub- 
ject, at  particular  periods,  to  a  great  increase,  suc- 
ceeded by  a  gradual  diminution  ;  and  along  the 
rocks  of  the  eastern  coast  lines  are  observable, 
which  indicate  the  rise  and  fall.     The  greatest 


^  iV 


I  IS  • 

i    Ir' 


■'«A 


-** 


J- 


p>/. 


I  ■' 


It 


\ 


f- 


nil'-' 


214  LAKE    SUPERIOR. 

distance  between  these  horizontal  marks  impress, 
cd  by  the  waters,  is  not  more  than  five  or  six  feet. 
The  greater  or  less  quantities  of  snows,  which  in 
winter  cover  to  a  considerable  depth  immeasura- 
ble  regions,  and  which  on  their  dissolution  flow 
into  this  pellucidocean,  may  probably  be  produc 
tive  of  this  phenomenon.  The  soil  in  the  vicini- 
ty of  the  eastern  shore  is  rocky  and  shallow,  yield- 
ing only  stunted  trees,  brambles,  str<iwberrics> 
raspberries,  and  other  fruits  of  humble  growth, 
the  feeble'tribute  of  sterility.  The  bears  find  in 
them  a  grateful  ibod,  and  are  attracted  thither. 
Moose  and  fallow  deer  also  range  along  these 
coasts. 

The  islands  in  this  lake  are  isle  aux  Erablesy 
isle  of  Michipicoton,  Carribou  island,  isles  ance  a 
BouteiUe^  Peek  island,  Milles  isles y  isle  Royale^ 
isles  of  the  twelve  Apostles,  and  Montreal  island 
on  the  south-west  coast.  The  most  remarka- 
ble bays  are  Michipicoton  bay,  Black  bay.  Thun- 
der bay,  Fond  du  Lac  or  West  bay,  Ance  de 
Chagoumegon,  whose  point  is  in  latitude  forty- 
seven  degrees,  two  minutes,  twenty  seconds,  and 
loiigitude  ninety-one  degrees  four  minutes; 
Quieounan  bay,  formed  by  a  large  peninsula, 
situated  on  the  south,  and  bay  des  isles  au  pais 
flat* 

'he  river  Michipicoton  communicates  with 
the  territory  of  the  Hud  on's  bay  company  :  and 
t^e  society  ot  merchants  at  Montreal,  v^ho  trade 


eal,  who  trade 


BAKE    StTfERtOll.  2l5 

to  tTie  north-west  regions,  have  considerable  post© 
established  on  it.  A  ibrt,  cons.sting  of  a  stocka* 
ded  square,  with  a  dweUing-honse  and  tv^  o  sniull 
store-houses,  are  erected  at  the  moutli  of  the  kirg* 
er  Peek,  there  being  two  rivers  of  that  namc^ 
which  fall  into  the  lake  on  the  northern  coast.  The 
rapids  on  this  river  are  numerous :  but  the  carry^ 
ing-places  are  in  general  short. 

Beyond  Otter  Head,  in  latitude  forty-eighty 
four,  six ;  longitude,  eighty-five,  fifty-two,  twen- 
ty-nine ;  at  the  bottom  of  a  bay  formed  by  that 
point,  a  v/aterfall  of  seventy  feet  in  height,  pre- 
sents itself  J  and  contributes  by  its  sound,  splen* 
dour,  and  movements,  to  enliven  the  stillness  and 
solitude  which  prevail  in  these  distant  and  deso- 
late regions. 

The  river  Nipigon,  or  Lemipisake,  flows  into 
the  wide  and  extensi  ve  bay  of  the  isles  a«/>flw/>/flf^* 
and  has  a  near  communication  with  Hudson's 
bay.  It  has  several  posts  established  on  its  bor- 
ders. It  forms  the  discharge  of  Lake  Ahmipi- 
goQ  :  and  at  its  north-east  source  travellers  may 
arrive,  by  means  of  a  portage,  at  the  Perray, 
which  runs  into  Hudso^i's  bay. 

The  commerce  of  the  Hudson's  bay  company 
possessing  many  advantages  over  that  which  is 
conducted  from  Canada  by  means  of  the  lakes, 
might  be  rendered  much  more  productive  than  it 
is  ut  present.  The  articles  which  are  exchiiiiij^ed 
with  the  iiatives  for  their  furs,  can  be  afforded  at 


n^^ 


»  V 


h  ; 


■r 


K— *«». 


%^r 


> 


.'    .  ,t     (1 


! 


1^1        M!  ,       . 


I'*  ' 


' 


916  LAKE    SUPEKIOH. 

a  much  cheaper  rate  through  the  route  by  the 
buy,  than  by  the  tedious,  diificult,  and  circuitous 
way  of  the  rivers  and  lakes  of  Canada  :  and  ;:ie 
Indians,  for  this  reason,  give  a  preference  to  ihe 
commerce  of  the  former. 

A  place  named  the  Grande  Portage  is  situated 
on  a  river  at  the  westerii  side  of  the  i  ke,  in  a  buy 
which  forms  a  crescent,  and  whose  borders  are 
cleared  and  inclosed.  It  is  now  in  possession  of 
the  government  of  the  United  States ;  and  v»  as 
until  lately  a  place  of  great  resort  for  the  traditig 
companies  of  Montreal ;  as  the  principal  depot 
for  these  regions,  was  here  established.  The  de- 
fence, placed  under  a  hill  of  upwards  of  four  hun- 
dred feet  in  elevation,  surmounted  by  a  conge^ 
ries  of  others,  consists  of  a  large  picketed  fort, 
with  three  gates,  over  which  are  two  guard-hous- 
ts.  The  ranges  of  buildings  for  stores  and  dwell- 
ing-houses, which  were  occupied  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  different  persons  engaged  in  the 
north-west  trade,  are  very  extensive.  The  canoe- 
yard,  for  constructing  canoes  used  for  penetrating 
into  the  interior  parts  of  the  country,  is  upon  a 
great  scale  ;  seventy  canoes  per  annum  having 
been  contracted  for.  The  number  of  persons  en • 
camped  in  tents  and  in  huts,  on  the  outside  of  tlie 
fort,  was,  at  certain  periods,  very  great ;  and 
tended  to  excite  surprise  that  so  considerable  an 
assenil)lage  of  men,  under  no  military  restraint, 
should  be  retained  in  obedience,  and  in  a  state  of 


^!i  • 


'^.  ^ 


£ake  super roR.  £1*7 

jolerable  regularity,  so  ilir  Ixyoiul  the  limits  of 
all  civil  jurisdiction.  The  fur  trade  was  {'or  iionvt 
time  conducted  by  two  rival  associations,  who 
are  now  united.  The  establishment  of  the  new 
company  was  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  that 
of  the  old ;  and  consisted  of  a  fort,  picketed,  and 
of  buildings  on  the  same  plan  as  those  of  the  latter, 
but  upon  a  more  circumscribed  scale. 

Fort  Charlotte  is  placed  upon  the  river  h  Tour- 
te,  which  has  a  communication  with  the  interior 
country.  It  consists  of  a  stockaded  quadrangle, 
with  buHdings  and  stores  within  it.  Tiie  fust 
carrying-place,  in  ascending  that  commiinicatir>ii, 
is  called  the  Perdrix,  about  three  hundred  and 
eighty  yards  in  length.  At  the  uppermost  extre- 
mity, an  elegant  and  romantic  waterfall  appears, 
throwing,  like  a  moving  white  curtain,  from  the 
summit  of  a  cliff  of  sixty  feet  in  perpendicular  al- 
titude, revolving  groups  of  resplendent  foam. 

The  river  Kamanastigua,  which  discharges  its 
waters  into  Fhunder  bay,  is  about  two  hundred 
yurds  in  width,  and  from  ten  to  twelve  feet  in  depth 
in  the  southern  branch,  there  being  three  chan- 
nels. The  shore  for  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
lake  is  low  and  swampy,  after  which  it  rises,  .id 
presents  a  soil  of  the  richest  quality.  The  iirst 
branch  is  found  three  miles  up  the  river.  The 
mi.ldle  branch  is  about  half  a  mile  in  le'igth,  j  id 
rery  narrow :  the  third  is  the  largest,  and  about: 

T 


'.i«i 


r 


■'     '■    J   III'' 

I  i 


I   I 


I  lift 


1 


(  .' 


■^  i 


218  LAKK    SUPERIOR. 

half  a  mile  from  the  lake.  Upon  this  branch  the 
company  of  merchants  of  Montreal  have  establish, 
cd  their  new  posts.  A  square  of  five  hundred 
nnd  twenty  feet  is  inclosed  with  lofty  pickets, 
within  which  are  structures  uniformly  arranged, 
fitted  for  evcf)^  purpose  and  accommodation. 

Half  a  mile  above  this  post  there  is  the  site  of 
an  old  fort,  which,  during  the  French  government, 
was  the  principal  commercial  dep6t  in  this  remote 
region.  The  first  rapid  is  six  miles  up  the  river, 
the  first  carrying-pIacc  is  twenty  miles.  The 
mouth  of  tliis  river  is  sheltered  by  a  rocky  island ; 
and  the  entrance  is  perfectly  secure.  The  bar 
has  seven  feet  of  water  over  it,  and  ten  or  twelve 
feet  both  within  and  without:  and  the  bay  itself 
is  protected  by  islands. 

Lake  Superior  receives  into  its  bosom  near  for- 
ty  rivers,  some  of  which  are  of  considerable  mag- 
niude.  It  is  well  stored  with  a  variety  of  fish, 
the  largest  and  best  of  which  are  the  trout,  the 
white  fish,  and  the  sturgeon,  of  a  quality  superior 
to  that  caught  in  the  lower  parts  of  the  Saint  Law- 
rence. The  waters  are  more  pure  and  pellucid 
than  those  of  any  other  lake  upon  this  globe :  and 
the  fish,  as  well  as  the  rocks,  can  be  distinctly 
seen  at  a  depth  incredible  to  persons  who  have  ne- 
ver \  isited  those  regions.  The  density  of  the 
mtd  iim  on  which  the  vessel  moves  appears 
sc;u a ly  to  exceed  that  of  the  atmosphere:  and 
the  truvelier  becomes  inipresstd  ^ith  awe  at  the 


■A 


LAKE    SUPERIOlt,  2':^ 

novelty  of  his  situation.  Fhe  southern  coast  is 
in  many  places  flat ;  and  tlie  soil  is  of  a  sandy  und 
barren  nature. 

Although  the  course  of  the  Saint  Lawrence  iu 
usually  computed  at  no  more  than  about  tM  o 
thousand  five  hundred  miles,  yet  the  distance  of 
country  through  which  a  river  flows  is  by  no 
means  a  just  criterion  of  its  grandeur  :  and  ibc 
'ivers  Amazon  and  la  Plata,  from  the  greater 
length  of  their  courses,  have  been  allowed,  in  the 
Order  of  magnitude,  to  usurp  a  preference  to  tJic 
former,  which,  notwithstanding,  is  the  most  na- 
^  igablc  upon  earth.  Ships  oi  considtrabk  vize, 
^vliich  every  year  arrive  Irom  Great  Britain,  as- 
lend  this  river  with  ease  as  far  as  Montreal,  a  dis. 
tance  of  five  hundred  miles  trom  the  sea.  In  ad- 
vancing higher  up  its  coi  '^'  ^' •tcudoi  diminifc,h- 
ing,  like  almost  all  other  rivers'i'  in  width  as  veil 
as  depth,  the  traveller  is  impressed  with  astonibh- 
ment  at  its  majesty  ;  and,  in  many  places,  its  ap- 
parently unbounded  extension.  At  the  distaiAC 
ot  two  thousand  miles  IVom  its  mouth,  vessels  of 
the  first  class  migiit  be  constructed  and  lutvigatid, 
a  property  hitherto  undiscovered  in  an)  other 
ilood  of  fresh  waters,  and  \Uiieh,  the  !e;i -t,  1..  s  a 
claim  to  precedence,  us  the  l:ugesi  anu  nii.si  ^i»v 
peiid'jus  ia  thjs  wcuid.- 


>!lil 


r  • 


1/   '; 


:^20 


C  A  N  A 1)  A . 


1    ;  I 


'1  .     i 


\M 


CHAPTER  IX,  v  ' 

Commerce  of  Canada — Fur  trade-— 'paper  mojiey-^ 
sei^neiirics — ri  if  fits  of  their  proprietors — moderate 
appointments  of  colonial  oncers — Mal-adminlstra- 
tion  of  finance  during  the  French  government — state 
of  Canada  at  its  conquest — progressive  improvement 
'^rcvenue'^y early  equipment  and  transport  in  the 
fur  trade — Voyageurs — Hardiness  and  mode  of  life 
— drjpcidties  of  navigation  on  the  Outaouais  rtver-^ 
romantic  ivaterfills — Portages, 

THFi  original  source  of  all  the  misfortunes, 
tiiid  of  all  tlie  obstacles  to  the  advancement  and 
prosperity  of  the  provinces,  which  were  formerly 
distinguished  by  the  appellation  of  New  France, 
'Was  tlie  J*eport,,'jigj.^jyj»^  very  early  period  spread 
itself  over  the  parent  kingdom,  that  po  mines 
were  to  be  found  iq  that  part  of  North  America. 
Little  attention  was  therefore  bestowed  on  the  ad- 
^'antages  which  might  have  been  derived  from  the 
colony,  by  encouraging  and  augmenting  its  com- 
merce. Population  made  but  a  slow  progress : 
and  the  inducement  presented  to  the  inhabitants 
of  France  to  remove  thither  was  not  very  alluring. 
The  sole  objects  for  commercial  enterprise,  which 
Canada  and  Acadia  at  that  time  aiforded,  were 
the  fisheries  and  the  fur  trade.  Had  it  been  the 
fortune  of  these  countries  to  hivve  attracied  in  a 
greater  degree  the  attention  of  the  court  to  their 


CANADA.  221 

intrinsic  value  and  importance,  the  settlements 
would  have  advanced  \a  ith  greater  rapidity  :  and 
reciprocal  advantages  to  the  parent  state  and  to  the 
colon V,  would  have  arisen. 

But  the  splendour  of  the  precious  metals  which 
were  imported  from  Mexico  and  Peru,  had  so 
dazaled  the  eyes  of  all  the  inhabitants  of  Europe, 
that  a  territory  which  produced  not  these,  was 
considered  as  undeserving  of  attention.  New 
France  fell,  therefore,  into  disrepute,  before  a 
knowledge  of  its  soil,  and  of  the  species  of  pro- 
ductions of  which  it  was  capable,  could  be  ascer- 
tained. Even  they,  who  were  convinced  that 
considerable  advantages  might  be  drawn  from  it, 
took  no  active  measures  towards  promoting  the 
means  of  their  accomplishment.  M  uch  time  was 
allowed  to  elapse,  before  the  choice  of  a  situation 
was  made.  The  land  was  often  cleared,  without 
a  previous  examination  of  the  qualities  of  its  soil. 
It  was  planted  with  grain ;  buildings  wtre  erect, 
ed ;  and  after  much  labour  had  thus  been  lavished 
on  it,  the  colonist  frequently  abandoned  it,  and 
went  to  settle  elsewhere,  'l^his  spirit  of  incon- 
stancy contributed  to  the  loss  of  Acadia  to  France ; 
and  operated  as  an  insuperable  barrier  to  the  ac- 
quisition of  any  advantage  from  that  extensive 
peninsula. 

The  commerce  of  Canada  was  long  confined 
to  the  fisheries  and  to  the  fur  trade.  iie  od- 
ftshery  was  carried  on  at  the  Great  Bank,  and  on 

T  2 


114 


!  (". 


'   if 


222  CANADA; 

the  coast  of  Newfoundland,  some  time  before 
the  rivtr  Saint  Lawrence  was  explored.  The 
huibour  and  bay  of  Placentia  were  occupied  by 
the  French. 

The  province  of  Acadia,  now  called  Nova  Sco- 
tia, was  originally  shared  among  different  indi- 
viduals, no  one  of  whom  enriched  himself,  whilst 
the  English  were  conducting  upon  the  coast  an 
extensive  and  profitable  fishery.  The  settlements 
V  hich  these  proprietors  made,  destitute  of  solidi- 
t}',  and  formed  upon  no  regular  plan,  were  at 
length  abandoned,  little  more  improved  than  when 
they  were  first  entered  on ;  and  fallen  into  such 
disrepute,  that  the  country  did  not  regain  its  cha- 
racter until  the  moment  when  it  became  lost  to 
France.  When  this  region  was  first  discovered, 
it  abounded  with  wild  animals  of  great  variety  of 
species.  A  handful  of  Frenchmen  found  means 
to  sweep  these  extensive  forests  of  their  four- 
footed  inhabitants,  and  in  less  than  an  age  to  cause 
them  totally  to  disappear.  Some  there  were, 
whose  species  became  entirely  extinguished. 
Orignals  and  clkM  were  killed  for  no  other  design 
but  that  of  amusement,  and  of  exercising  address 
in  the  chace.  The  authority  of  government  was 
not  interposed  to  remedy  a  disorder  so  destruc- 
tive. But  from  the  avarice  of  individuals  who  ap- 
plied themselves  only  to  this  commerce,  a  yet 
greater  evil  was  produced. 

The  emigrants  whg  arrived  from  France  were 


^iV'-i 


^i^r-' .  .^:    .«^  .  n 


nerce,  a  yet 


France  were 


CANADA.  22^ 

in  general  in  a  state  of  w retchedness and poveity ; 
and  were  desirous  of  re-appearing  in  their  na- 
tive country  in  a  better  condition.  In  the  com- 
mencement of  the  settlement,  there  was  little 
impediment  to  the  acquisition  of  wealth  by  the 
produce  of  the  chace.  The  Indians  were  yet  ig- 
norant of  the  treasures  which  their  native  woods 
afforded  ;  and  became  acquainted  with  their  va- 
lue, only  from  the  avidity  with  which  the  furs  were 
snatched  from  their  hands.  In  exchange  for  ar- 
ticles of  no  value  whatever,  prodigious  quantities 
were  acquired  from  them  When  they  had  even 
become  more  acquainted  with  the  importance  of 
this  species  of  commerce,  and  more  attentive  to 
their  own  interests,  it  was  still  for  a  long  time  ea- 
sy to  satisfy  them  at  a  small  expencc.  With  some 
degree  of  prudence,  therefore,  it  would  not  have 
been  difficult  to  have  continued  this  traffic  upon 
an  advaiitageous  footing.  Considerable  fortunes 
were  made  with  rapidity.  But  they  were  almost 
as  quickly  dissipated  as  they  had  been  acquired ; 
like  those  moving  hills,  which  in  the  sandy  de- 
serts of  Asia  or  of  Africa,  are  drifted  and  deposit- 
ed by  the  whirlwinds,  and  which  possessing  no 
consistency  or  solidity,  are  by  the  same  cause 
again  as  suddenly  dispersed. 

Nothing  was  more  common  in  New  France, 
than  to  behold  individuals,  protracting  in  wretch- 
edness  and  misery  a  languishing  old  age,  after 
having  through  folly  lost  the  opportunities  winch 


-,,741 ,' 


tj 


■'  I 


hV 


li 


m 


W,i 


ri 


224  CANADA. 

were  afforded  them  ol'  jorociiring  an  honourable 
subsistence.  The  condition  i'  these  people,  un- 
worthy of  the  fortunes  which  it  was  once  in  tiieir 
po\\'er  to  have  gained,  would  by  no  means  have 
become  a  subject  of  public  regret,  had  not  ill  ef- 
fects thence  arisen  to  the  colony,  which  was  soon 
reduced  to  the  mortification  of  finding  almost  to- 
tally  exhausted,  or  diverted  into  otlier  channels,  a 
source  of  wealth  which  might  have  continued  to 
flow  into  its  bosom.  The  origin  of  its  ruin  was 
generated  from  its  too  great  abundance. 

By  the  immense  accumulation  of  beaver  skins, 
which  always  constituted  a  principal  part  of  this 
commerce,  so  great  a  quantity  was  found  in  the 
magazines,  that  there  was  no  longer  any  demand 
for  them ;  ;vhence  it  arose,  that  the  merchants 
were  unwilling  to  receive  any  more  The  adven- 
turers, therefore,  who  in  Canada  were  stiled  CoU" 
reurs  cle  Bokytmhmctd  the  only  opportunity  which 
was  offered  for  disposing  of  them,  by  carrying  them 
to  the  English :  and  many  of  these  people  esta^ 
biished  themselves  in  the  province  of  New  York. 
The  attenipts  made  to  prevent  those  desertions, 
were  not  attended  with  success.  On  the  contra- 
ry ,  they  whom  interest  had  led  into  the  territories 
of  the  English,  were  there  retained  by  the  dread 
of  punishment,  should  they  return  to  their  coun- 
try  :  and  others,  whose  inclination  disposed  them 
to  enjoy  the  freedom  and  libertinism  of  an  erratic 
mode  of  life,  remained  among  th<^  savages,  irom 


li 


CANADA.  225 

whom  they  could  afterwards  be  distinguished,  on- 
ly by  their  exceeding  them  in  vice  and  immora- 
lit\ .  To  rccal  these  fugitives,  recourse  was  at 
length  hud  to  the  publication  of  amnesties  :  and 
even  this  measure  was  long  of  little  avail.  By 
prudence  and  perseverance,  it  at  length  produced 
in  some  degree  the  intended  effect. 

Another  mode  yet  more  efficacious  was  employ- 
ed, that  of  granting  to  persons,  on  whose  fideli- 
ty a  reliance  could  be  placed,  licences  to  trade  in 
the  territories  of  the  Indians,  and  of  prohibiting 
all  other  inhabitants  from  leaving  the  colony. 
The  nature  of  these  licences,  and  the  conditions 
on  which  they  were  bestowed,  has  already  been 
described  in  another  work.*  From  this  practice 
it  arose,  that  a  great  proportion  of  the  young 
men  were  continually  wandering  throughout  the 
distant  forests  :  and  although  they  committed  not, 
at  least  so  openly,  the  disorders  which  had 
brought  such  discredit  on  this  occupation,  yet 
they  failed  not  to  contract  a  habit  of  libertinism, 
oF  which  they  could  never  wholly  divest  them- 
selves. They  there  lost  all  relish  for  industry ; 
they  exhausted  their  strength  :  they  became  im- 
patient of  all  restraint :  and  when  no  longer  able 
to  undergo  the  fatigue  of  these  voyages,  which 
happened  at  an  early  period  of  life,  because  their 
exertions  were  excessive,  they  became  destitute 
of   ':  resource,  and  unfit  for  the  functions  of  socie- 

*  History  of  Canada,  Book  I\.  page  197, 


L 


>:    fl 


.  ■}! 


•4ffc...... 


'.     >'> 


*'i 


rn 


'■^^Miiifti.. 


i26  CANADA. 

ty.  Hence  proceeded  the  cause  that  aj^icultuit* 
tviis  long  neglected  ;  that  immense  tracts  of  itr- 
tilc  landii  remained  uncultivuti  d ;  and  that  the 
progress  of  population  was  retarded. 

It  was  repeatedly  proposed  to  abolish  these  li- 
eeiiccs,  so  prejudicial  to  the  advancement  of  im- 
provcment,  in  such  a  manner  as  that  the  com. 
nierce  might  not  suffer,  and  w  ith  a  view  oi  ren- 
dering it  even  more  flourishing.  This  design 
Was  to  be  effected  by  the  formation  of  small  set- 
tlements, in  situations  where  it  would  be  conve- 
nient for  the  natives  to  assemble  at  certain  sea- 
sons of  the  year.  By  this  means  it  was  conceiv- 
ed, that  these  vast  countries  would  become  insen- 
sibly peopled  ;  and  that  the  siivages,  attracted  by 
tlic  assistance  and  kindness  which  they  would  ex- 
pericnce  from  ihc  French,  would  perhaps  abiin- 
don  their  erratic  mode  of  lilic  ;  would  thereby  be 
exposed  to  less  misery  ;  would  multiply  mstead 
of  diminish  in  numbers ;  and  would  iorm  such 
an  i  ttachment  to  these  Europeans,  as  perhaps 
would  induce  them  to  become  leliow  subjects 

The  several  settlements  of  Lorette,  oi  the  sault 
Suint  Louis,  and  others  of  the  Al^oivpiins  ftnd  of 
tile  domiciliated  Abinaquis,  exhibited  examples 
of  vhe  probable  success  of  that  undertaking.  It 
vas  however  never  put  in  execution  :  and  the  na- 
tives nave  rapidly  decreased  in  numbers.  Ac 
ex  erded  cii  !!i  of  bettlenienls,  at  corivcnient  ( 
fences  trom  each  other,  mi^ht  have  been  mide^ 


(JAKABA.  22T 

l^ndtlic  colonics  of  Cjn:ida  and  Louisiana  btiii^ 
thus  connected,  would  have  been  enabled  to  have 
aflforded  each  other  mutual  assistance.  B\  means 
like  these  the  Knglish,  in  less  tlian  a  century  and 
a  half,  peopled  more  than  fifteen  hundred  miles  of 
territory  ;  and  thus  created  a  power  on  this  con- 
tinent not  less  formidable  than  dreaded  by  the 
French.  • 

Canada  has  for  many  years  carried  on  with  the 
I  islands  in  the  gulph  of  Mexico,  a  commerce  in 
I  flour,  planks,  and  other  wood  adapted  for  build- 
ings.    As  there  is  not,  perhaps,  another  country 
in  the  world  which  produces  a  greater  variety  of 
woods,  some  of  which  are  excellent  in  their  kind, 
I  considerable  advantages  are  derived  from  thence. 
Nothing  so  much  contributed  to  the  languish- 
I  ing  slate  in  which  the  trade  of  this  colony  was  for 
some  time  retained,  as  the  frequent  alterations 
which  took  place  in  the  medium  of  exchange. 
The  company  of  the  West  Indies,  to  whom  was 
conceded  the  domain  of  the  French  islands,  was 
permitted  to  circulate  there  a  small  coin,  whose 
number  was  not  to  exceedlhe  value  of  a  hundred 
thousand  francs,  and  whose  use  in  any  other  coun- 
try was  prohibited.     But.  difficulties  arising  Fro'^n 
the  want  of  specie,  the  council  published  a  decree, 
by  which  it   was  ordained,  that  this  coin,  and  all 
other  money  which  was  in  circulation  in  France, 
should  not  only  be  used  in  the  islands,  but  ah>o  in 
the  provinces  on  the  coiitiaent,  on  augmenting  the 


A 


f. 


fM 


*..! 


XiH'-i 


iV  ( 


•M 


11 


,IM- 


nm  Ml 


228  CANADA. 

•value  one- fourth.  Tht^  decree  enjoined,  th^t 
all  Jiotes  of  hand,  accounts  purchases,  aitd  paj-. 
me. its,  should  be  made  by  every  person  without 
exception,  at  the  rate  of  exchan.aje  thus  settled.  It 
had  likewise  a  retrospective  <  peration ;  and  stated, 
that  all  stipulations  for  contracts,  notes,  debts, 
reiits,  and  leases,  should  be  valued  in  money,  ac- 
cording to  that  currency. 

This  regulation  tended,  in  its  execution,  to  oc- 
casion  many  difficulties.  The  intendant  of  Ca- 
nada found  at  that  period  inexpressible  embarrass- 
ment, not  only  in  the  payment  of  the  troops,  but 
for  all  other  expences  of  government  in  the  colo- 
ny. The  funds  remitted  for  this  purpose  from 
France,  arrived  generally  too  late :  and  it  was  ne- 
cessary, on  the  first  of  January,  to  pay  the  officers 
and  soldiers,  and  to  satisfy  other  charges  not  less 
indispensable.  To  obviate  the  most  urgent  occa- 
sions, the  intendant,  with  the  concurrence  of  the 
council,  issued  notes  instead  of  money,  observing 
always  the  proportional  augmentation  in  the  value 
of  the  coin.  A  proces  verbal  was  accordingly 
framed :  and  by  virtue  of  an  ordinaixce  of  the  Go- 
vcrnor-general  and  Intendant,  there  was  stamped 
on  each  piece  of  this  paper-money,  which  was  a 
curd,  its  value,  the  signature  of  the  treasurer,  an 
impression  of  the  arms  of  France,  and,  on  seal- 
ing-wax,  those  of  the  Governor  and  Intendant. 
They  >vere  afterwards  imprinted  in  France,  with 
ihc  same  impresbions  as  the  current  money  of  the 


^.•«r-4 


6  AN -A  »  A.  22D 

kiDRrdom :  and  it  was  decreed,  that  before  the 
arrival  in  the  colony,  of  vessels  from  France,  a 
particular  mark  should  be  added,  to  prevent  the 
introduction  of  counterfeits.  ,  .... 

This  species  of  money  did  not  long  remain  in 
circulation  :  and  cards  were  again  resorted  to,  on 
which  new  impressions  were  engraved.  Those 
of  the  value  of  four  livres  and  upwards,  were 
signed  by  the  intendant,  who  was  satisfied  with 
dibtinguishmg  the  others  by  a  particular  murk. 
Those  which  were  six  livres  and  upwards,  the 
Governor. general  formerly  likewise  signed.  In 
the  beginning  of  autumn  all  the  cards  were 
brought  to  the  treasurer,  who  gave  for  their  va- 
lue bills  of  exchange  on  the  treasurer- general  of 
the  marine,  or  on  his  deputy  at  Rochefort,  on  ac- 
count of  the  expenc^s  of  the  ensuing  year. 
Such  cards  as  were  spoiled,  were  not  again  u^^cd 
in  circulation ;  and  were  burnt  agreeably  to  a 
I  proces  verbal  for  that  purpose. 

Whilst  the  bills  of  exchange  continued  to  be 
faithfully  paid,  the  cards  were  preferred  to  money. 
But  when  that  punctuality  was  discontinued,  they 
were  no  longer  brought  to  the  treasurer :  and 
the  intendant  *  had  much  fruitless  trouble  in  en- 
deavouring to  recal  those  which  he  had  issued. 
His  successors,  in  order  to  defray  the  necessary 
cxpcnces  of  the  government,   were  obliged  to  is- 

**  ai.  de  Champigny,  in  1702. 

u 


i* 


\^ 


tv 


f  m  1 


!   *     ^         I  It    J (       ' 


lllJlijiJ/' 


,    i 


;  fi    n   .   /ft. 


230  CANADA. 

sue  new  cards  every  year  ;  by  which  means  they  ' 
bt  came  so  muitiplied,  that  thtlr  value  was  anni- 
hilated, and  no  person  would  receive  them  in 
payment.  Commerce,  by  this  injudicious  sys- 
tem of  finance,  was  entirely  deranged :  and  the 
inconvenience  rose  to  such  a  height,  that  in  1713 
the  inhabitants  proposed  to  lose  one -half,  provid- 
ed the  government  would  pay  them  the  other  in 
money.  This  proposal  was  in  the  following  year 
agreed  to  :  but  the  orders  given  in  consequence 
were  not  carried  into  compleat  execution  until 
four  years  afterwards.  A  declaration  abolishing 
the  paper  money  was  then  published ;  and  the 
expences  of  the  colony  were  again  paid  in  cash. 
The  augmentation  of  one-fourth  was  at  the  sume 
time  abolished,  experience  having  suggested, 
that  the  increase  of  the  value  of  money  in  a  colo- 
ny is  not  an  effectual  means  of  retaining  it  there ; 
and  that  it  cannot  remain  long  in  circulation,  un- 
less the  articles  imported  from  the  parent  state  be 
repaid  in  produce 

'I'he  commerce  of  the  colony  was,  in  1 706,  car- 
ried  on  with  a  fund  oi  six  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
Si-ud  livres,*  which  for  severul  years  afterwards 
did  fjot  much  augment.  This  sum,  distributed 
among  thirty  thousand  inhabitants,  could  not 
plcice  them  in  affluent  circumstances,  nor  afFord 
thttn  ■ ' ''  mt^ans  of  purchasing  the  merchandise 
o:    ''-ance.      '^^e    (Jii.at'st-  ],art  of  them    \\ere, 

*  26,0U0/.  sierliug. 


-»        ,'    *%^_,    "•  -n  -^         -tSV. 


CANADA.     ■  2.*^V 

therefore,  almopt  in  a  state  of  nature;  particular- 
ly they  whose  residence  was  in  the  remote  bt  ttle- 
ments.  Even  the  siirpkis  of  their  produce  ad 
stock  they  were  unable  to  sell  to  t]>e  inhabit  nuts 
of  the  t(>vvns;  because,  in  order  to  subsist,  the 
latter  were  necessitated  to  cuhivatc  farms  of  their 
own. 

When  the  King  withdrew  Canada  frnni  the 
hands  of  the  company  of  tlie  Indies,  he  i'or  ;f>mc 
time  expended  on  that  province  much  larger  |'or- 
tions  of  money  than  he  did  at  any  future  pcricd  : 
and  the  colony  then  remitted  in  beaver  skins,  to 
the  value  of  a  million  of  livres,  a  greater  quantity 
than  was  afterwards  exported.  But  articles  were 
every  year  imported  from  France,  amounting  to 
a  much  greater  value  than  could  be  paid :  and 
the  inhabitants  acted  Hkc  inconsiderate  individu- 
als, wliose  expences  far  exceed  their  income. 

Thus  fell  the  credit  of  the  colony :  and.  in  fill- 
ing, it  occasioned  the  ruin  of  commeice  whic  h, 
in  706,  consisted  only  of  furs  of  yr  inferioi  vjua- 
lity.  The  merchants  were,  notwiihstuMciii.g, 
emulous  of  purchasing  them.  Tliis  circum- 
stance tended  to  accelerate  their  overthro^v  ;  be- 
cause they  frequently  paid  to  the  siivages  a  higaer 
price  than  these  articles  were  sold  for  in  France. 

When  the  French  b(^gan  their  settlements  in 
Caiiuda,  the  countrv  exhibited  one  vast  und  un* 
bnu.jded  forest :  tin!  ■;  jix'  '\  '^as  grnited  in  ex- 
tensive lots,   called  Seigneunes^  a^UGichuit^  aioiigj 


t  , 


i 


//m 


.J 

1.  i  1 

I'  u\ 

\ 


~-yiX»Miri 


.^f\^.*- 


4  " 


u 


232  CANAftA. 

either  coast  of  the  Saint  Lawrence,  for  a  distance 
of  ninety  miles  below  Quebec,  and  thirty  miles 
abo\'e  JMontreal,  comprehending  a  space  of  three 
hundred  miles  in  length. 

Tlie  seigneuries  each  contain  from  one  hundred 
to  five  hundred  square  miles  ;  and  are  parcelled 
out  into  small  tracts,  on  a  freehold  lease  to  the 
inhabitants  ;  as  the  persons  to  whom  they  were 
granted  had  not  the  means  of  cultivating  them. 
These  consisted  of  officers  of  the  army,  of  gentle- 
men, and  of  communities,  who  were  not  in  a 
state  to  employ  labourers  and  workmen.  The 
portion  to  each  inhabitant  was  of  three  acres  in 
breadth,  and  from  seventy  to  (eighty  in  depth,  com- 
liiencing  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  running 
back  into  the  woods,  thus  forming  an  entire  and 
regular  lot  of  land. 

To  the  ^ro\)neiors  of  seigneuries  some  powers, 
as  well  as  considerable  profits,  are  attached.  I'hey 
are  by  their  grants  authorised  to  hold  courts,  and 
sit  as  judges  in  what  is  termed  haute  and  basse 
justice,  which  includes  all  crimes  committed  with- 
in their  jurisdiction,  treasons  and  murder  except- 
ed. Few,  however,  exercised  this  privilege  ex- 
cept the  ecclesiastical  seigneurs  of  Montreal, 
ivhose  right  of  jurisdiction  the  king  of  France 
purchased  from  them,  giving  them  in  return  his 
droit  de  change.  Some  of  these  seigneurs  have  a 
right  ot  villain  service  frc?m  their  tenants. 

At  every   transfer,  or  mutation  of  proprietor, 


II  (/ 


tel.--i-  .  .AoiiL-  ■  A  J 


«:..  ,)»'*' 


CANADA.  233 

the  new  purchaser  is  bound  to  pay  a  sum  equal 
to  a  fifth  part  of  the  purchase  money  to  the  seig- 
neur, or  to  the  king.  But  if  this  fine  be  paid  imme- 
diately, only  one-third  of  the  fifth  is  demanded. 
This  constituted  a  principal  part  of  the  king's  re- 
venues in  the  province.  When  an  estate  falls  by 
inheritance  to  a  new  possessor,  he  is  by  law  ex- 
empted fi'om  the  fine. 

The  income  of  a  seigneur  is  derived  fi'om  the 
yearly  rent  of  his  lands,  from  lots  et  vents^  or  a  fine 
on  the  disposal  of  property  held  under  him,  and 
from  grist-mills,  to  whose  profits  he  has  an  exclu- 
sive right.     The  rent  paid  by  each  tenant  is  in- 
considerable ;  but  they  who  have  many  inhabi- 
tants on  their  estates  enjoy  a  tolerably  handsome 
revenue,  each  person  paying  in  money,  grain,  or 
other  produce,  fi*om  five  to  twelve  livres  per  an- 
num.    In  tl\e  event  of  a  sale  of  any  of  the  lots  of 
his  seignettrie,  a  proprietor  may  claim  a  preference 
of  re-purchasing  it,  which  is  seldom  exercised,  but 
with  a  view  to  prevent  frauds  in  the  disposal  of 
the  property.     He  may  also,  whenever  he  finds 
it  necessary,  cut  down  timber  for  the  purpose  of 
building  mills,   and  making  roads.     Tythes  of 
all  the  fisheries  on  his  domain  likewise  belong  to 
him. 

Possessed  of  these  advantages,  seigneurs  might 
in  time  attain  to  a  state  of  comparative  affluence, 
were  their  estates  allowed  to  remain  entire. 
But,  by  the  practice  of  divisions  among  the  differ- 

v2 


'    M 


.  J 


I'l 


-  .^^ 


^W... 


II 


i 


f> 


Ci, 


r 


ji". 


234  CANADA. 

em  chilc^ren  of  a  fanul},  they  become,  in  a  few 
gentr  .'if^iis,  reduced.  'I'he  most  ample  share, 
which  rttairs  the  name  of  seigneurie,  is  the  por- 
tion of  the  eldest  son.  The  other  partitions  are 
denominated yieo/j  These  are,  in  the  next  ge- 
neration, again  subdivided:  and  thus,  in  the 
course  of  a  few  descents,  a  seigneur  is  possessed 
of  little  more  than  his  title.  This  is  the  condition 
of  most  of  those  estates  that  have  passed  to  the 
third  or  fourth  generation. 

The  inhabitants  in  like  manner  make  divisions 
of  their  small  tracts  of  land:  and  a  house  will 
sometimes  belong  to  several  proprietors.  It  is 
from  these  causes  that  they  are  in  a  great  measure 
retained  in  a  ^tate  of  poverty ;  that  a  barrier  to 
industry  and  emulation  is  interposed ;  and  that  a 
spirit  of  litigation  is  excited. 

There  are  in  Canada  upwards  of  an  hundred 
seigneuries,  of  which  that  at  Montreal,  belong- 
ing to  the  seminary  of  Saint  Sulpicius,  is  the  rich- 
est and  most  productive.  The  next  in  value  and 
profit  is  the  territory  of  the  Jesuits.  The  mem- 
bers of  that  society  who  resided  at  Quebec  were, 
like  the  priests  of  Montreal,  only  agents  for  the 
head  of  their  community.  But  since  the  expul- 
sion of  their  order  from  France,  and  the  seizure^ 
by  the  catholic  sovereigns  of  F.urope,  of  ail  the 
lands  of  that  society  within  their  dominions,  the 
Jebuits  ill  Canada  held  their  ^seigneurie  in  their 
»wn  right. 


,  >!il^A  ■ 


'  W-  -ly  ■ 


CANADA.  23S 

»Some  of  the  domiciliated  savagfes  hold,  also,  in 
the  province,  lands  in  the  right  of  seigneurs. 

Upon  a  representation  of  the  narrow  circum- 
stances to  which  many  of  the  noblesse  and  gcDile- 
men  of  the  colony  were  reduced,  not  only  by  the 
causes  already  assigned,  but  by  others  equally 
powerful,  Louis  the  Fourteenth  was  induced  to 
permit  persons  of  that  description  to  carry  on 
commerce  by  sea  or  land,  without  being  subject- 
ed to  any  enquiry  on  this  account,  or  to  an  impu- 
tation of  their  having  derogated  from  their  rank  in 
society. 

To  no  seigneitrie  is  the  right  of  patronage  to 
the  churcli  attached.  It  was  upon  the  advance- 
ment of  the  pretensions  of  some  seigneurs,  found- 
ed on  their  having  built  parochial  churches,  that 
the  king  in  1685,  pronounced  in  council,  that  this 
right  should  belong  to  the  bishop,  he  being  the 
most  capable  of  judging  concerning  the  qualifica- 
tions of  persons  who  were  to  serve,  and  the  in- 
comes of  the  curacies  also  being  paid  from  the 
tythes,  which  belonged  to  him  alone.  The  right 
of  patronage  was,  at  the  same  time,  declared  not 
to  be  reputed  an  honour. 

The  salaries  allotted  to  the  officers  of  the  civil 
departments  in  the  French  colonial  governments 
were  extremely  moderate,  and  inadequate  to  sup- 
port their  respective  situations.  In  1 758,  that  of 
the  Marquis  de  Vaudreuil  governor  and  lieutenant- 
general  of  Canada,  amounted  to  no  more  tliaa 


'  'I 


Mil 


^ 


^ 


V  I 


Jl'o 


I 


236  CANADA. 

272/.  U,  Sd.  sterling ;  out  of  which  he  was  to 
clothe,  r^aintain,  and  pay,  a  guard  for  himself, 
consisting  of  two  serjcants  and  twenty  five  sol- 
diers, furnishing  them  with  firing  in  winter, 
and  with  other  necessary  articles.  The  pay  of 
the  whole  of  the  officers  of  justice  and  police  was 
514/.  1  Is  sterling :  and  the  total  sum  appropriated 
for  the  pay  of  the  established  officers,  composing 
the  various  branches  of  the  civil  power,  exceeded 
not  3809/  8^.  sterling. 

..  At  the  period  when  this  arrangement  of  pay 
was  settled,  these  sums  might,  perhaps,  have  been 
considered  as  sufficiently  ample.  To  increase 
the  salaries  of  the  various  officers  of  a  government, 
when  an  augmentation  of  the  value  of  the  articles 
of  life,  disproportionate  to  their  means,  shall  ren- 
der it  expedient,  is  a  measure  of  ministerial  poli- 
cy, upon  the  whole  not  unprofitable  to  a  state. 
A  partial  adherence  to  ancient  regulations,  with  a 
view  of  concealing  the  public  expenditure,  is  a 
system  of  economy  founded  in  error.  This  has, 
in  many  instances,  but  particularly  with  regard  to 
the  country  of  which  we  are  speaking,  been  pro- 
ductive of  a  torrent  of  general  peculation,  whose 
destructive  course  drew  along  with  it  embarrass- 
ments, which  it  required  the  strongest  effiDrts  of 
political  wisdotn  to  remedy  and  to  overcome. 

The  paper  money  in  Canada  amounted,  in 
1754,  to  so  large  a  sum,  that  the  government  was 
compelled  to  remit  to  a  future  period  the  payment 


^fc  i. 


CANADA.  23T 

rf  It.  The  quantity  every  day  acquired  an  in- 
creased accumulation:  and  this  money  fell  at 
length  into  total  disrepute.  Merchandise  rose  in 
proportion  as  the  medium  of  exchange  became 
decried.  'I'hc  officers  of  government  and  the 
troops  were  the  principal  consumers :  and  the 
evil  of  scarcity*  and  the  discredit  of  the  paper 
money,  were  chiefly  derived  from  that  cause.  h\ 
1759  the  minister  was  obliged  wholly  to  suspend 
payment  of  the  bills  of  exchange,  whose  amount 
was  enormous.  Considerable  sums  were,  at  the 
conclusion  of  the  war,  due  by  the  government  of 
France  to  the  Canadians:  and  Great  Britain, 
whose  subjects  they  were  become,  obtained  for 
them  an  indenmity  of  1 12,0001.  in  bonds,  and  of 
24,0001.  sterling  in  money.  They  therefore  re- 
ceived in  payment  at  the  rate  of  fifty-five  per  cent* 
upon  their  bills  of  exchange,  and  thirty-foiu*  per 
cent,  on  account  of  their  ordonnances  Or  paper 
money. 

The  derangement  and  default  which  we  have 
stated,  arose  likewise  in  a  great  degree,  from  the 
maladministration  of  finance,  and  from  a  total  de- 
reliction of  principle  in  those  to  whom  that  depart- 
ment was  committed. 

From  the  foregoing  facts  it  may  easily  be  con- 
ceived, that  when  the  English  took  possession  of 
Canada,  they  found  its  inhabitants  to  have  n^.iide 
br'  little  progress  in  commerce  or  in  agriculture. 
The  long  continuance  of  warfare  mi^ht  have 


i 


I  < 


I  -, 


...^-*>_>-. -fir»^n 


-^-J 


■II 


'ttl 


^iism 


V,  Willi 


* !  ;i 


>*•< 
«.»•> 


238  CANADA. 

tended  to  depress  the  former :  but  the  latter  hacl 
never  attained  to  any  sta^e  of  impr()Vement. 
,  One  article  of  commerce  the  Canadians  hud, 
by  their  own  imprudence,  rendered  altogether  un- 
pn^fitable.  Ginseng  was  first  discovered  in  the 
woods  of  Canada  in  1718.  It  was  from  that  coun- 
try  exported  to  Canton,  where  its  quality  was  pro- 
nounccd  to  be  equal  to  that  of  the  ginseng  pro- 
cured in  Corea  or  in  Tartar\- :  and  a  pound  of 
this  plynt,  which  before  sold  in  Quebec  for  tw  en- 
>  typence,  became,  when  its  value  was  once  ascer- 
tained,., worth  one  pound  and  tenpencc  sterling. 
Th*;  export  of  this  article  alone  is  said  to  have 
amounted,  in  )  752,  to  twenty  thousand  pounds 
sterling.  But  the  Canadians,  eager  suddenly  to 
enrich  themselves,  reaped  this  plant  in  May,  when 
it  should  not  have  been  gathered  until  September, 
and  dried  it  in  ovens,  when  its  moisture  should 
have  been  gradually  evaporated  in  the  shade. 
This  fatal  mistake  arising  from  cupidity,  and  in 
some  measure  from  ignorance,  ruined  the  sale  of 
their  ginseng,  among  the  only  people  upon  earth 
who  are  partial  to  its  use ;  and  at  an  early  period 
cut  off  from  the  colony  a  new  branch  of  trade, 
which  under  proper  regulations,  might  have  been 
essentially  productive. 

The  imports  of  Canada,  during  seven  years  of 
its  most  flourishing  trade,  previous  to  the  con- 
«[uest  of  the  country,  amounted  annually  to  about 
leOjOOO/.,  and  sometimes  to  240,000/1  sterling. 


sv^::  iVfcj 


CAM  AW  A.  239 

The  exports  seldom  exceeded  80,000/.  sterling, 
and  were  frequently  less  than  that  sum.  This 
deticiency  was  in  a  considerable  degree  supplied 
every  year  by  the  French  government,  which  ex- 
pe  ided  large  sums  in  buiidmg  ships  and  on  the 
fortifications;  to  which  was  added  the  payment 
of  the  troops,  besides  other  disbursements. 
These,  it  has  already  been  noticed,  were  settled 
by  bills  drawn  on  the  treasury  in  France ;  and, 
wnilst  they  were  punctually  paid,  sufficiently  sup-  .. 
plied  the  balance.  •vj?,.-^^-   o^ 

The  traders  who  emigrated  thither  from  GreaK*^- 
Bi'it  lin  found,  for  the  first  two  or  three  years  af- 
ter the  reduction  of  the  country,  a  considerable 
advantage  in  the  great  quantities  of  furs  then  in 
the  colony,  in  bills  drawn  by  those  .inhabitants 
who  were  determined  to  remain  under  the  Bri- 
tish government,  and  who  had  money  in  France, 
in  bills  drawn  on  the  paymaster-general  of  the 
forces,  in  London,  for  the  subsistence  of  five-  or 
six  regiments,  and  in  what  were  termed  Canada 
hills.  But  these  resources  became  in  a  great  de- 
gree exhausted :  and  commerce  fell  into  a  state 
of  progressive  languishmcnt  and  decline. 

Tile  inhabitants  for  upwards  of  a  century  had 
becii  accustomed  to  manufacture  in  their  own  ia- 
miiies,  druggets,  coarse  linens,  stockings,  and 
worsted  caps  knitted  with  wires.  For  tlie  men, 
and  for  themselves  to  wear  dulig  the  bu-n-u^r 
months,  the  women  fkbricated  hats  and  bunneis 


1^1 


,'./ 


.'f/ 


:240  CANADA* 

of  straw.  Few  European  articles  were  at  that 
time  required  by  this  people,  vvhoobscrvuiin  their 
modes  of  living  the  most  rigid  frugality.  The 
wool  produced  from  the  breed  of  sheep  is,  from 
the  coldness  of  the  climate,  of  a  nature  too  coarse 
to  enter  into  the  composition  of  fine  cloths.  Tht 
lint,  tobacco,  and  hemp,  raised  by  the  inhabitants, 
are  principally  designed  for  the  use  of  their  fami- 
lies. Until  the  arrival  in  the  colony  ol  some  far. 
mers  from  Great  Britain,  they  were  but  little  ac- 
quainted with  the  science  of  agriculture.  No 
so(jner  were  the  fields  become  exhausted,  than 
the  inhabitants  betook  themselves  to  clear,  and 
to  cultivate  new  iands.  They  were  ignorant  of 
the  application  of  manure,  and  of  the  ameliora- 
tion which  its  introduction  can  effect,  in  the  pro- 
ductive quality  of  soils.  Their  natural  aversion 
to  industry,  their  propensity  to  ease,  and  their 
disposition  to  vanit}  ,  induced  a  great  part  of  the 
colonists  to  raise  a  larger  proportion  of  horses 
tlian  ot  cattle ;  the  labour  ol  the  latter  being  found 
in  tilliige  equally  useful  with  that  of  the  former, 
the  sources  of  provision  were  thus  unnecessarily 
stinted. 

The  quantity  of  produce  exported  in  1769 
amounted  in  value  to  !63,  i05l  sterhng;  and 
was  shipped  in  seventy  vessels  belonging  to 
Great  Britain  and  to  her  subjects  in  the  different 
colonies  in  North  America-  Rum,  coffee,  brown 
sugar,  and  molasses,  were  brought  thiiher  fronx 


the  W 

suppliec 

for  gr.ii 

hold  fui 

utensils 

supplie( 

Net  I 

period  ( 

L.ivvren 

hidies. 

long  tin 

gree,  b 

and  to 

demand 

Inth( 

period  \ 

the  coIo 

(lisappci 

cd  long 

crease  o 

tries,  foi 

seems,  1 

consider 

scls  cmp 

ing  ten 

tons,     i 

appears 

ships  on 

Quebec. 

years  ha 


.•V        r~.-— 


"-'■  \j.i*9''^^  "^--^T  ■ 


were  at  that 
jcrvcdinthtir 
igality.     The 
leep  is,  from 
irc  too  coarse 
cloths.     Tht 
\c  inhabitants, 
of  their  I'ami- 
r  ol  some  far- 
:  but  little  ac- 
culture.     No 
lausted,  than 
to  clear,  and 
e  ignorant  oi 
the  ameliora- 
it,  in  the  pro- 
tural  aversion 
ise,  and  their 
at  part  of  the 
ion  of  horses 
:;r  being  found 
if  the  former, 
unnecessarily 

ted  in  1769 
sterling ;  and 
belonging   to 

the  different 
coffee,  brown 

thiiher  from 


the  West  Indies.  Spuiii,  Italy,  and  P()rtii|.';.iK 
supplied  brandy,  wines,  oils,  and  salt,  in  return 
for  grain.  Cloths,  Unens,  muslins,  silks,  house- 
hold furniture,  teas,  refined  sugars,  tools,  glass, 
utensils,  colours,  hard  and  crockery- ware,  were 
supplied  by  England. 

Net  more  than  twelve  small  vessels  were  at  this 
period  engaged  in  the  fisheries  on  the  river  Suint 
Livvrence  :  and  about  six  were  scut  to  the  Wcs*^ 
hidies.  The  construction  of  ^•cssds  was  for  a 
long  time  laid  aside.  This  might,  in  some  de- 
ij'ree,  be  attributed  to  the  scarcity  of  artificers, 
and  to  the  high  wages  which  were  consequently 
demanded. 

In  the  course  of  two  or  three  years  after  the 
period  we  have  now  mentioned,  the  debts  due  to 
the  colony  were  paid  ;  and  paper  money  entirely 
disappeared.  The  commerce  of  Canada  remain- 
ed long  in  a  state  of  fluctuation,  caused  by  the  in- 
crease or  decrease  of  demand  in  European  coun- 
tries, for  the  productions  which  it  supplied.  It 
seems,  however,  in  a  course  of  ten  years,  to  have 
considerably  augmented,  and  the  number  of  ves- 
sels employed  in  1775  was  ninety-seven,  contain- 
ing ten  thousand  eight  hundred  and  forty  one 
tons.  At  the  end  of  ten  years  more,  the  trade 
appears  not  to  have  been  s(i  extensive  ;  fifty-seven 
ships  only  having  been  then  entered  at  the  port  of 
Quebec.  But  the  lapse  of  another  period  uf  ten 
years  had  contributed,  ii.  a  great  degree,  to  en- 

X 


'- 


^•sr::.L 


..-f-sawj^ics.in. 


lik  ail 


i'^ 


'I  m 


242  CANADA.       ^ 

large  it:  and  in  17^5  not  less  than  aTiundrcdancf 
twenty-eight  vessels,  amounting  to  ninei ten  ti  ou- 
sand,  nine  hundred  and  fifty-three  tons,  navig  iitd 
by  one  thousand  and  sixty-seven  men,  arrived  'in 
the  S-iint  Lavrrence.  This  increase  may  be  at- 
tributed to  the  scarcity  of  grain  which  at  that  pe- 
riod prevailed  in  Great  Britain,  and  in  most  of  the 
otlier  countries  of  Europe.  Three  hundred  and 
ninety-five  thousand  bushels  of  vt^heat,  eighteen 
thousand  barrels  of  flour,  and  twenty  thousand 
cwts.  of  biscuit,  were  that  year  exported  from 
Canada. 

The  advanced  prices  which  were  then  given 
for  wheat  and  other  grain,  tended  to  enrich  the 
inhabitants ;  and  had  an  influence  in  augmenting 
the  value  of  all  the  articles  of  life.  Many  of  the 
Canadians,  even  at  a  distance  from  the  capital,  be- 
gan, from  that  period,  to  lay  aside  their  ancient 
costume,  and  to  acquire  a  relish  for  the  manufac- 
tures of  Europe.  This  revolution  in  dress  has 
not  a  little  contributed  to  the  encouragement  of 
commerce. 

The  construction  of  vessels  at  Quebec  had  be- 
gun, in  the  course  of  the  foregoing  year,  to  be 
carried  on  with  spirit  and  success,  by  a  company 
of  London  merchants,  who  sent  to  Canada  an  d- 
geat  for  conducting  that  branch.  Several  build- 
er^  have  since  established  themselves  there  :  and 
from  the  demand  which,  in  consequence  of  the 
w  ir,  has  prevailed  for  vessels,  they  have  reaped 
coiisiderable  profits. 


aliundrcdanci 
nineit'cn  ilou- 
tons,  navig  .ud 
len,  arrived  'in 
se  may  be  at". 
lich  at  that  pe- 
l  in  most  of  the 
;c  hundred  and 
^heat,  eighteen 
'enty  thousand 
exported  from 

ire  then  given 

to  enrich  the 

in  augmenting 

Many  of  the 

the  capital,  be- 

e  tlieir  ancient 

>r  the  manufac- 

n  in  dress  has 

:ouragement  of 

Quebec  had  be- 
rig  year,  to  be 
,  by  a  company 
0  Canada  an  d- 
Several  build- 
ves  there  :  aiid 
^quence  of  the 
y  have  xeaped 


CANADA.  2't;» 

A  large  exportation  of  grain  took  place  in  1 70I>, 
and  'he  three  following  years.  The  quantity  in 
1802  was  one  million  and  ten  thousand  bushehi  oF 
wheat,  thirty-eight  thousand  barrels  of  flour,  and 
thirty-two  thousand  cvvts.  of  biscuit.  Thenum^ 
her  of  vessels  engaged  in  the  export  of  these,  and 
other  productions  of  the  colony,  was  two  hundred 
and  eleven.  The  quantity  of  tonnage  was  near 
thirty-six  thousand :  and  the  number  of  sailors 
was  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  fifty. 

The  exports  from  Canada  consist  of  wheat 
and  other  grain,  flax-seed,  beef  and  pork,  butter 
and  lard,  soap  and  candles,  grease  and  tallow, 
balsam,  ale,  porter,  essence  of  spruce,  salmon 
dry  and  pickled,  fish-oil,  timber,  plank,  boiirds, 
hemp,  horses,  cattle,  sheep,  pot  and  pearl-as' ics, 
utensils  of  cast  iron,  furs  of  various  descripiionsy 
castoreum  and  ginseng.  These  articles  amounted 
in  value,  in  the  year  mentioned  above,  to  five 
hundred  and  sixty-three  thousand  four  hundred 
pounds  sterling. 

The  imports  were,  wine  of  various  kinds,  rum, 
sugar,  molasses,  coffee,  tobacco,  salt,  coals,  and 
different  articles  of  the  manufacture  of  Great  Bri- 
tain. 

The  colonial  revenues  in  that  yeiu*  amounted  to 
thirt)  -one  thousand  two  hundred  pounds ;  ai)d 
we»  o  derived  from  i  nposts,  dutici^,  iots  et  vents, 
and  rents  of  property  belonging  to  the  king,  T.ie 
expenditures  were  forty-three  thousand  two  hun* 
dred  pounds. 


.j,^-^^ 


2U 


CANADA. 


i  . 


/I's 


m 


'■»'     ;l 


t    r' 


jt^   \m 


Vi- 


The  forges  of  Three  Rivers  and  Battiscan  not 
only  supply  the  colony  with  utensils  and  stoves  of 
cast  iron,  but  likewise  afford  a  quantity  of  those 
articles  for  exportation.  At  the  former  of  these 
manufactories,  hammered  iron  of  the  best  quality 
is  made. 

The  fur  trade  had,  for  a  long  period  after  the 
settlement  of  the  English  in  Canada,  been  con- 
ducted by  a  variety  of  individuals;  and  the  inter- 
ruption which  it  experienced,  during  the  war  be- 
tween Great  Britain  and  her  colonies,  cut  off  fof 
a  time  the  profits  which  formerly  flowed  into  the 
province  from  that  source.  * 

At  length,  about  the  year  1784,  a  gentleman* 
of  Montreal,  whose  mind  was  active  and  enter- 
prising, formed  an  association  of  several  mer- 
chants of  that  place,  for  the  purpose  of  pushing 
this  branch  of  commerce  to  a  greater  extension 
than  it  had  ever  before  acquired.  The  associates 
stiled  themselves  the  Company  of  the  North-west, 
as  it  is  from  that  quarter  that  the  objects  of  their 
pursuit  are  principally  derived,  and  for  which  the 
\'ast  and  immeasurable  tracts  of  territory,  yet  un- 
explored by  Europeans,  seemed  to  present  a  pro- 
ductive and  inexhaustible  field.  Several  indivi- 
duals, actuated  by  a  spirit  of  adventure  and  disco- 
very, as  well  as  by  the  hope  of  profit,  traversed 
an  immense  tract  of  wulds,  to  the  westward  and 
towards  the  north.    One  gentleman,!  upn  Jtrds  of 


*  Mr,  Mactavish. 


j-  8ir  Alexander  Mackenzi^^ 


'u'  *f 


TBI  — ..  m 


I' 


Battiscan  not 

« 

>  and  stoves  of 
iitity  of  those 
)rmer  of  these 
le  best  quality 

sriod  after  the 
da,  been  con- 
and  the  inter- 
ng  the  war  be- 
es, cut  off  fof 
towed  into  the 

a  gentleman* 
live  and  enter- 
f  several  mer- 
3se  of  pushing 
ater  extension 

The  associates 

le  North-west, 
jbjects  of  their 

for  which  the 
|ritory,  yet  un- 

present  a  pro- 
everal  indivi- 

ure  and  disco- 

ofit,  traversed 
westward  and 
,f  upT\  Jird^  of 


it  Alackenzi?* 


CAN"  A  DA,  245 

Isvelve  years  ago,  particularly  distinguished  him- 
self as  the  first  who  ever  travelled  across  the  con- 
tinent of  America,  in  these  high  latitudes,  to  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean ;  an  undertaking  whose 
acco.nplisliment  demanded  the  greatest  stretch  of 
resolution,  prudence,  firmness,  and  exertion. 
More  than  one  attempt  has  since  been  made  to 
perform  the  same  journey,  but  without  success. 

Although,  previous  to  the  year  1790,  im'ueuse 
quantities  of  furs  were  every  year  exported  from 
Canada,  yet  the  profits  were  not  at  that  time  by 
any  means  equal  to  those  afterwards  arising  from 
this  branch  of  commerce.  A  great  proportion  of 
peltry,  particularly  that  of  beaver,  enters  into  the 
composition  of  f  ome  manufactures :  but  the  price 
of  furs  is  in  a  great  measure  influenced  by  fashion. 
By  this  standard,  which  constitutes  the  increase 
or  decrease  of  demand,  the  market  is  principally 
regulated.  The  consumption  of  peltry  for  dress 
has,  fortunately  for  the  fur  merchants,  prevailed 
for  many  years  past,  and  several  have  from  this 
cause  acquired  independent  fortunes.  1 

The  company  trading  to  the  north-west  sends 
every  year,  to  the  posts  on  Lake  Superior,  about 
fifty  canoes  loaded  with  merchandise.  These  are 
dispatched  about  the  beginning  of  May,  from  Lli 
Clnne,  a  distance  of  nine  miles  above  Montrealc 
The  canoes  are  formed  of  the  bark  of  the  birch- 
tree,  and  closely  lined  with  thin  ribs  made  of  a 
tough  wood.     The  stams  are  served  with  radical 

X  2 


,tii 


^.±:  . 


■**^-va 


-^ 


■4'^l.*i-<   _  -   »-d 


."^'' 


m 


^    •    '!'t 


■mm 

ill  ?;!i.> 


■If  i^l 


246  '"  CANADA.  .    ., 

fibres,  cA\q(\  watape:  .*j.d  they  are  afterwards 
catfiully  covered  over  with  gum  to  exclude  the 
"Water.  The  bott«  >ni  of  the  vessel  is  nearly  flat, 
the  sides  are  rounded,  and  eitlier  end  tenninates 
in  ',]  sharp  edge.  The  price  of  one  of  these  is 
about  twelve  pounds  sterling :  and  it  is  calculated 
to  contain,  on  the  perilous  voyage  for  which  it  is 
destined,  a  weight  equal  to  that  which  follows : 
Six!y-five  pieces  ofmerchandise  of  ninety  pounds 
e:tch  ;  eight  men,  each  weighing  at  least  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty  pounds ;  baggage  allowed  to  these 
men,  at  forty  pounds  each,  together  with  the 
weight  of  their  provisions.  The  whole  cargo  of  I 
a  canoe  is,  therefore,  not  less  than  eight  thousand! 
three  hundied  and  ninety  pounds,  exclusive  of  I 
t\'  o  oil  cloths  to  cover  the  goods,  a  sail  and  anf 
axe,  a  towing-line  to  drag  the  canoe  up  the  rapids,] 
a  kettle,  a  sponge  to  bail  out  the  water  imbibec 
b}-  leakage  ;  with  gum,  bark,  watape,  and  uten- 
sils  for  repairing  any  injury  which  may  be  susj 
tained  on  the  voyage.  The  men  are  engaged  a| 
'  Montreal  four  or  five  months  before  they  set  ou| 
on  their  journey  ;  and  receive  in  advance  theij 
equipment,  and  one-third  of  their  wages.  Eiic] 
man  holds  in  his  hand  a  large  paddle :  and  thj 
eanoe,  although  loaded  withiri  six  inches  of  il| 
gunwale,  is  made  to  move  along  with  wonderfil 
expedition.  The  voyageurs,  or  navigators,  aj 
of  constitutions  the-  strunsjjest  and  most  robn^ 
and  they  are  at  an  early  period  inured  lo  the  ej 


no( 
anc 
fiftj 
fivj 


'-■'^■^•*-f  '--  t^-^'i»^i 


•    »«^ '    ) 


ire  afterwards 
)  exclude  the 
is  nearly  flat, 
;nd  terminates 
ne  of  these  is 
it  is  calculated 
for  which  it  is 
which  follows : 
ninety  pounds 
t  least  one  hun- 
allowed  to  these 
;ether  with  the 
whole  cargo  of  | 
I  eight  thousand  i 
is,  exclusive  of 
[  a  sail   and  an 
oe  up  the  rapids,] 
water  imbibec 
\tapc,  and   uten- 
ch  may  be  susj 
I  are  engaged  aj 
;fore  they  set  ou 
in  advunce  theij 
r  wages.     Kiicl 
paddle:  and  thj 
ix  inches  of  il| 
g  with  wonderfJ 
r  navigatois, 
nd  most  robusij 
inured  lo  the  e 


,  .  ,  ,  0ANABA.  24T 

oounter  of  hardships.  The  fare  on  which  they 
subsist  is  penurious  and  coarse.*  Fortified  by 
habit  against  apprehension  from  the  species  of  dif- 
ficulties and  perils  with  which  they  are  about  to 
struggle,  they  enter  on  their  toils  with  confidence 
and  hope.  Whilst  moving  along  the  surface  of 
the  stream,  they  sing  in  alternate  strains  the  songs 
and  music  of  their  country,  and  cause  the  deso- 
late wilds  on  the  banks  of  the  Outaouais,  to  re- 
sound with  the  voice  of  cheerfulness  They 
adapt  their  strokes  in  rowing  to  the  cadence  of 
their  strains ;  and  redouble  their  efforts  by  mak- 
ing them  in  time.  In  dragging  the  canoes  up  the 
rapids,  great  care  is  necessary  to  prevent  them 
from  striking  against  rocks ;  the  materials  of 
which  they  are  composed  being  slight  and  easily 
damaged.  When  a  canoe  receives  an  injury ^ 
the  aperture  is  stopped  with  gum  melted  by  the 
heat  of  a  piece  of  burning  charcoal.  Fibres  of 
bark  bruised,  and  moistened  with  gum  in  a  liquid 
state,  are  applied  to  larger  apertures.  A  linen 
rag  is  put  over  the  whole,  and  its  edges  are  ce- 
mented with  gum. 

The  total  number  of  men  contained  in  the  ca- 
noes, amounts  usually  to  about  three  hundred 
and  seventy-three,  of  which  three  hundred  and 
fifty  are  navigators ;  eighteen  are  guides ;  and 
five  are  clerks.     When  arrived  at   the  ^rand  de- 

•  Chierty  'he  ..i^re  se  of  the  bear,  and  a  meal,  or  coarse  flourj^ 
made  from  Indian  cora» 


7.. 


^'i.'l1,C-'"^»;ii*"'„i 


•■    ^ 


M 


;'i  'iV 


■fm 


248  CANADA, 

p6t,  on  Lake  Superior,  part  of  these  acend  as  (^al- 
as the  Rainy  Lake  :  und  they  arc  usually  abscni 
from  Montreal  about  five  months.  The  guides 
are  paid  for  this  service  thirty-seven  pounds  stcr- 
liniv,  and  are  allowed  besides,  a  suitable  equip- 
ment. The  wages  of  the  person  who  sits  in  the 
front  of  the  canoe,  and  of  him  whose  office  it  is  to 
steer,  are  about  twenty-one  pounds  sterling  each ; 
those  of  the  ether  men,  about  twelve  pounds  ten 
shillings  of  the  same  money. 

To  each  man,  a  blanket,  shirt,  and  pair  of  trow- 
sers  are  supplied  :  and  all  are  maintained  by  their 
employers  during  the  period  of  their  engagement- 
The  advantage  of  trafficking  with  the  savages  is 
likewise  permitted:  and  some  individuals  pro- 
cure by  this  means  a  profit  amounting  to  more 
than  double  their  pay. 

From  La  Chine,  the  voyagers  proceed  with 
the  little  fleet  of  canoes,  to  the  parish  of  Saint  Ann, 
where  the  river  becomes  so  rapid  and  broken,  that 
they  are  necessitated  to  take  out  a  part  of  dieir 
lading  This  situation  containing  the  last  church 
^vhich  is  met  with  on  the  voyage,  excepting  those 
belonging  to  Indian  missions,  it  is  dedicated  to 
the  tutelar  saint  of  voyagers  :  and  the  commence, 
ment  of  the  route  is  reckoned  from  hence. 

The  lake  of  the  two  mountains  is  an  enlarge- 
ment of  the  Grand,  or  Outaouais  river,  immedi. 
atcly  behind  the  island  of  Montreal;  and  is  nearly 
tweniy  miles  in  lengtli,  but  of  unequal  width.  A« 


>' 


-- ■*-^- 


'  acend  as  fiir 
LisiuiUv  «bs(m 
The  guides 
I  pounds  sttT- 
iitable  equip- 
ho  sits  in  the 
E  office  it  is  to 
sterling  each ; 
ve  pounds  ten 

\  pair  of  trow- 
lained  by  their 
r  engagement- 
he  savages  is 
iividuals  pro- 
mting  to  more 

proceed  with 
of  Saint  Ann, 
|d  broken,  that 
part  of  their 
e  last  church 
cepting  those 
dedicated  to 
ie  commence- 
hence. 

ns  an  enlarge- 

[ver,  immedi- 

and  is  nearly 

lal  width.  As 


CANADA.  249^ 

in  many  parts  it  is  not  much  above  three  miles 
broad,  its  borders  arc  distinctly  seen  on  each  side ; 
and  present  to  the  view  fields  in  a  state  of  cultiva- 
tion, intermingled  with  woods.  Two  gently 
swelling  hills,  which  rise  on  its  north-east  coast, 
and  have  been  dignified  with  the  appellation  of 
mountains,  give  to  the  lake  its  name.  On  a  point 
•f  land  stretching  from  under  these,  an  Indian  vil- 
lage called  Canasadago,  is  situated,  composed  of 
two  associations  of  domiciliated  natives,  one  of 
the  Algonquin,  and  the  other  of  the  Iroquois 
tribe.  The  village  is  separated  by  the  church 
mto  two  parts,  the  Algonquins  possessing  the  east, 
and  the  Iroquois  the  western  extremity.  The 
whole  of  the  inhabitants  may  amount  to  about  two 
thousand.  Each  tribe  has  its  distinct  missionary : 
and  the  rites  of  the  Roman  Catholic  religion  arc, 
in  the  same  chapel,  regularly  and  alternately  per- 
formed in  the  respective  tongues  of  these  natives. 
The  tract  of  land  on  which  the  village  is  built,  be- 
longs to  the  seminary  of  Montreal ;  and  these 
Christian  Indians  are  permitted  by  that  communi- 
ty to  retain  it  in  their  possession.  A  small  por^ 
tion  of  it  only  is  cultivated  by  the  women  :  and 
they  reap  from  thence  a  moderate  supply  of  In- 
dian corn,  tobacco,  and  culinary  herbs.  Like 
the  other  domiciliated  natives  of  the  colony,  a 
considerable  part  of  the  men  and  women  spend 
the  wniter  in  the  woods,  and  in  the  occupation 
«f  the  chace. 


^V\ 


£«    ^ 


,*«v/ 


l: 


tL ......... 


.-fel/ljl-v.ii!-;.^ 


^. 


!     '. 


150  CANADA. 

Luke  Chaudiere  is  distiim  about  one  liundreS 
miit^s  from  that  of  the  two  mountains.  Hcit  a 
Wuttrfall  occupies  the  breadth  of  the  river  ;  and, 
dublung  over  a  rugged  and  irregular  cliff,  of  about 
thirty  feet  in  altitude,  exhibits  to  the  view  of  the 
traveller,  in  the  midst  of  a  territory  where  dreary 
solitude  prevails,  an  object  at  once  brilliant,  en- 
livening, and  picturesque.  Part  of  the  river  here 
diverging  into  a  contrary  channel,  assumes  a  re^ 
tn  >gradc  course ;  and  pours  into  a  basin,  whose 
"waters  entirely  disappear,  but  have  probably  a 
subterraneous  communication  with  the  channel 
farther  down. 

The  river  Rideau,  directing  its  course  from  the 
southward,  joins  tlie  Outaouais  about  a  league 
below  tlie  tall  now  described,  and  presents  a 
pleasing  cataract.  At  a  distance  of  forty  miles 
up  the  latter,  the  falls  of  Les  Chats  disclose  them- 
selves  to  the  eye,  where  over- hanging  woods, 
rocks  placed  m  perpendicular  positions,  and 
elouds  of  resplendent  foam  rolling  down  the  pre- 
cipice, contribute,  amid  the  gloom  of  desolation, 
to  cheer  the  mind  of  the  observer.  On  the  left 
side  the  largest  body  of  water  flows  :  and  on  the 
right  there  are  st  veral  apertures  on  the  summit 
€>f  tihe  cliff,  through  wiiich  the  bursting  waters 
jFor.;.e  a  passiige,  :'.id  tailing  upon  irregular  pro- 
jections, u!e  tossed  outwards,  as  if  driven  by  the 
revoiution  of  wheels.     The  stream  swiftly  sweeps 


V  ' 


:A.,-i,..  .St         ,.n.: 


one  luindreft 
jiis.  Hcit  a 
e  river ;  and, 
cliff,  of  about 
le  view  of  tlie 
where  dreary 
brilliant,  en- 
the  river  here 
ssumes  a  re- 
,  basin,  whose 
ve  probably  a 
li  the  channel 

)urse  from  the 
ibout  a  league 
[id  presents  a 
)f  forty  miles 
disclose  them- 
iging  woodi^ 
io^tions,  and 
down  the  pre- 
of  desolation, 

On  the  left 
and  on  the 

the  summii 
irsting  waters 
rregular  pro- 
driven  by  the 
swiftly  sweeps 


CANADA.  S51 

from  the  l^asin  ovt    uro  .     a  id  shelving  rocks; 
and  ^bnns  i  variety  of  small  cataracts. 


When, 


the  Outi 


the 


I  asceimir 

agers  approach  the  rapids,  they  dniw  the  ca:  oes 
to  the  shoie,  excepting  one,  which  they  join  in 
dragging  up,  and  lodge  in  a  place  of  security. 
Another  is  in  like  manner  conducted  to  tlie  head 
of  the  torrent,  and  they  thus  continue  to  drag  un- 
til the  whole  are  assembled.  At  the  portages, 
where  waterfalls  and  cataracts  oblige  them  to  un- 
load, the  men  unite  in  aiding  each  other  to  con- 
vey  the  canoes  and  goods  across  the  land,  by  c  r- 
rying  the  former  upon  the  shoulders  of  six  or 
eight  men,  and  the  latter  upon  the  back.  A 
package  of  merchandise  forms  a  load  for  one 
man ;  and  is  sustained  by  a  belt  which  he  places 
over  his  forehead. 

They  form  their  encampments  at  night  upon 
islands,  or  upon  the  borders  of  the  river.  The 
murmuring  sound  of  the  streams,  the  wildness 
of  the  situation,  and  remoteness  from  the  habita- 
tions of  men,  added  to  the  nocturnal  gloom,  pow- 
erfully invite  the  imagination  to  indulge  itself  in 
a  train  of  melancholy  reflections.  On  the  north- 
east shore,  about  sixty  m.iles  higher  up  than  the 
falls  last  described,  is  the  site  of  an  old  French 
fort  called  Coulogne ;  and  six  miles  farther  is 
th  t  of  another,  named  Defon.  At  a  distance  of 
se-.e  ity-t  v\)  miles  from  tl.e  latter,  is  point  au 
Bajjtkeme,  so  deiiomuiiited,  becuu seethe  rude  ce- 


-•,A*;ki.i;i.*-r-;.ii:-.:,.. 


y 


1  '  xl 


I  V  ■' 


^  if 


252  CANADA. 

rcmony  is  here  performed  of  plunging  into  tlic 
waters  of  the  Outaouais,  such  persons  as  have 
Bcvcr  before  travelled  thus  far.  An  ordeal  from 
wbich  exemption  may  be  purchased,  by  the  pay- 
nx'ji  of  a  fine.  The  land  here  rises  into  hills, 
whose  summits  are  conical,  presenting  a  scene 
rugged  and  romantic. 

The  torments  inflicted  by  legions  of  musquitos 
and  flies,  in  journeying  through  these  wildernes- 
ses, are  intolerable  to  an  European.  But  the  har- 
dy Canadians  seem  to  disregard  them,  or  to  be  but 
* little  subject  to  their  attacks.  At  certain  times 
the  men  put  their  canoes  on  shore,  in  order  to 
cook  their  food ;  or,  to  use  their  own  expression, 
pour ^  fair  la  chaudiere. 

The  channel  of  this  river  is  in  many  situations 
interspersed  witli  a  multitude  of  islands,  and  its 
course  is  interrupted  by  a  great  variety  of  cata- 
racts and  rapids.  About  a  hundred  and  twenty 
miles  from  point  au  Baptheme^  the  great  branch 
of  the  Outaouais  flowing  from  Lake  Tamiscam- 
ing,  is  passed  by  the  traveller  on  his  right,  and  the 
canoes  proceed  upwards  by  the  smaller  branch ; 
having  ascended  this  about  thirty -six  miles,  the 
fall  of  Paresseux  opens  on  the  sight.  Although 
not  exceeding  a  height  of  twenty. five  feet,  it  forms 
an  object  not  less  interesting  than  pleasing.  Mas- 
ses of  stone  rise  above  the  summit  of  the  fall,  and 
disclose  themselves  part  of  the  way  do\\n  its 
course.     1  he  rough  convexities,  and  the  ravines 


--v. 


^- 


*    I. 


kg  into  tUc 
IS  as  have 
)rdeal  from 
by  the  pay- 
5  into  hills, 
ng  a  scene 

►f  musquitos 
wildernes- 
But  the  har- 
,  or  to  be  but 
iertain  times 
,  in  order  to 
i  expression, 

ny  situations 
ands,  and  its 
iety  of  cata- 
\  and  twenty 
great  branch 
Tamiscam- 
ight,*andthe 
lUcr  branch; 
X  miles,  the 
Although 
|feet,  it  forms 
lasing.  Mas- 
the  fall,  and 
ly   doun  its 
the  ravines 


CANADA.   "  253 

which  have  been  worn  in  the  clifF,  covered  with 
boiling,  restless  clouds  of  foam,  present  a  combi- 
nation of  lustre,  motion,  and  unremitting  sound. 

Twenty.five  miles  from  hence  the  voyagers 
walk  along  a  carrying.place  of  eight  hundred  pa- 
ces, named  portage  premier  mitsiqite  ;  pr;s  up  a 
smal^  lake  of  nearly  the  same  length ;  and  enter  on 
a  second  portage  musigue  of  twelve  hundred  pa- 
ces. From  thence  to  the  height  of  lands,  and  to 
the  source  of  the  smaller  branch  of  the  Outaouais, 
the  distance  is  thirty  miles.  On  quitting  this 
branch  they  proceed  by  a  portage  of  twenty  acres  1 
to  the  small  and  winding  stream  named  Chaitssce 
de  Castor,  some  of  whose  sinuosities  are  avoided 
by  a  second  and  third  portage  of  five  hundred  pa- 
ces each.  They  then  enter  Lake  Nipissing, 
whose  length  is  fifty  miles,  and  whose  discharge 
into  Lake  Huron,  through  a  course  of  a  hundred 
and  eight  miles,  is  called  French  river,  on  which 
there  is  one  carrying- place.  After  having  thus 
encountered  the  toils  -of  thirty-six  portages,  the 
voyagers  navigate  their  canoes  along  the  northern 
coast  of  Lake  Huron  ;  and  pursue  their  route  to 
the  cascades  of  Saint  Mary,  a  description  of  which 
has  already  been  givdn. 

la  travelling  to  the  north-west  by  the  Outaouais 
river,  the  distance  from  Montreal  to  the  upper 
end  of  Lake  Huron  is  nine  hundred  miles.  The 
journey  may  be  performed  in  a  light  canoe,  in  the 
space  of  about  twelve  days ;  and  in  heavy  canoes.; 


1 


I 


.,-,....,..- ■f-.i:....'r»«il„. 


,.-———.  — , ^f^**-*.- 


•-»■•. 


(/ 


r 


254 


CANADA. 


'♦L* 


I'li 


.  ♦■  / 


in  less  than  three  weeks ;  \v  hicb  is  astonishingly 
quick,  when  wc  reflect  on  the  number  of  portages, 
and  powerful  currents  to  be  passed. 

About  one- third  of  the  men  we  have  mention- 
ed, remain  to  winter  in  the  remote  territories,  du- 
ring  which  the)  are  occupied  in  the  chace  ;  and 
for  this  service  their  wages  and  allowances  are 
doubled.  The  other  two-thirds .  re  tnguged  for 
one  or  two  years ;  and  have  attached  to  thtm 
about  seven  hundred  Indian  women  aiid  children, 
maintained  at  the  expence  of  the  company.  The 
chief  occupation  of  the  latter  is  to  scrape  aud  clean 
the  parchments,  and  to  make  up  and  arrange  the 
packages  of  peltry. 

The  period  of  engagement  for  the  clerks  is  five 
or  seven  years,  during  which  the  whole  of  the 
pay  of  each  is  no  more  than  one  hundred  pounds, 
together  with  clothing  and  board.  W  hen  the 
term  of  indenture  is  expired,  a  clerk  is  either  ad- 
mitted to  a  share  in  the  company,  or  lias  a  salary 
of  from  one  hundred  to  three  hundred  pounds 
per  annum^  until  an  opportunity  of  a  moie  ample 
provision  presents  itself. 

The  guides,  w  ho  perform  likewise  the  functions 
of  interpreters,  receive,  besides  a  quantity  of 
goods,  a  salary  of  about  eighty- five  pounds  per 
annum,  Tl;e  foremen  and  steersmen  who  winter, 
h;jve  about  fifty  pounds  sterling  :  aid  they  \^ ho 
are  termed  the  middle  men  in  the  canoes,  have 
a;  out  eighteen  poUi.Is  sterling  per  aimum^  with 
thtir  clothing  and  maintenance. 


'.^y. 


-V.V.. 


itomshlngly 
of  portages, 

^e  mention- 
ritorits,  du- 
chace :  and 
tuunces  are 
tiigaged  for 
L-d  to  thim 
Hid  children, 
pany.  The 
ipe  and  clean 
arrange  the 


CAKADA.  255 

The  number  of  people  usually  employed  in  the 
•north-west  trade,  and  in  pay  of  the  company, 
amounts,  exclusive  of  savages,  to  twelve  hun- 
dred and  seventy  or  eighty  men ;  fifty  of  whom 
are  clerks;  seventy  one  interpreters  and  under 
clerks;  eleven  hundred  and  twenty  are  canoc- 
men  ;  and  thirty-five  are  guides.   .\;; 

The  beaver  skin  is,  among  the  savages,  the  ftie- 
dium  of  barter  :  and  ten  beaver-skins  are  given 
for  a  gun  ;  one  for  a  pound  of  powder ;  and  one 
for  two  pounds  of  glass  beads.  Two  martin  skins 
are  equal  in  value  to  one  beaver  skin ,  and  two 
beaver  to  oiic  otter  skin. 


clerks  is  five 
vhole  of  the 
Ired  pounds, 
"When  the 
is  either  ad- 
has  a  salary 
red  pounds 
moie  ample 


'  I'j  (.1 


.,,...    '    i» 


n 


he  functions 
quantity  of 
pounds  per 
who  winter, 
d  they  \\ho 
c«noes,  have 
uwium,  with 


■  J:- -'J 


,.^"«=9«n,  . 


It 


256 


CANADA. 


CHAPTER  X. 


Former  state^f  colonial  gtmnrnment'^^tntrQduction  »f 
the  criminal  code  of  Eri0M^^tebec  Bill — new 
constitution-^sketch  of  thaJTsijfHem-'^ivision  of  Ca- 
nada intv  ftffdJf'rovinces — arid  of  these  into  counties 
~~adiiQ^tagwF6f  Canadian  settlers — state  ofsocitty--» 

i  manHWS^  character  of  the  habitants,  or  Land-hold- 
erS'^rnode  ofdearing  lands — acquisition  of  proper- 
it/— -Seigneurt^s— produce   of   soils— agriculture— • 

."*    Upper  Canada--cold,  and  causes  of  its  long  domina- 

*    tion— travelling  in  winter— roads-^houses, 

THE  white  inhabitants  of  Canada  amounted, 
in  1758,  to  ninety- one  thousand,  exclusive  of  the 
regular  troops,  which  were  augmented  or  dimin- 
ished, as  the  circumstances  and  exigencies  of  the 
country  might  require.  The  domiciliated  Indians 
who  were  collected  into  villages,  in  different  situ- 
ations in  the  colony,  were  about  sixteen  thou- 
sand  :  and  the  number  of  Frenchmen  and  Cana- 
dians resident  at  Quebec  was  nearly  eight  thou- 
sand.. 

Previous  to  the  year  1660,  the  influence  of  law 
was  altogether  unknown  in  Canada.  The  autho- 
rity  was  entirely  military  :  and  the  will  of  the  go- 
vernor, or  of  his  lieutenant,  was  submitted  to 
without  ever  being  questioned.  The  sole  power 
of  bestowing  pardon,  of  inflicting  punishiiient,  of 
distributing  rewards,  of  exacting  fines,  was  vested 


ntroducthn  $f 
bee  Bill — new 
•division  of  Ca* 
seinto  counties 
ate  ofsocietu'-* 
or  Land-hold' 
tion  of  proper' 
—agriculture--' 
s  long  dominO' 
ouses, 

a  amounted, 
elusive  of  the 
ted  or  dimin- 
jencies  of  the 
liated  Indians 
iifferent  situ- 
ixteen  thou- 
n  and  Cana- 
Y  eight  thou- 

uence  of  law 
The  autho. 
ill  of  the  go- 
iubmitted  to 
e  sole  power 
nishii>ent,  of 
s,  was  vested 


CANADAi  257 

in  him  alone.  He  could  imprispn  without  a  sha- 
dow of  delinquency,  and  cause  to  be  revered  as 
acts  of  justice  all  the  irregularities  pf  his  caprice. 
In  the  year  mentioned  above,  a  t|'%lunal,  to  de- 
cide definitively  oi|i^^\v.suits  of  the  'Colonists, 
was  established  in''lTO  capital.  ^   The  coiitume  de 


I  >■■-. 


Parisy  modified  by  loc^l  coml^[|^ons,  formed 


•/^''w 


the  code  of  these  laws.       "*  . 

During  the  first  four  years  after  C^ada  came 
into  possession  of  the  British,  it^wtis  divided  into 
three  military  governments.  At  Quebec,  and  at 
Three  Rivers,  officers  of  the  army  became  judges 
in  causes  civil  as  well  as  criminal.  These  impor- 
tant functions  were,  at  Montreal,  committed  to 
the  better  order  of  inhabitants.  An  equal  want 
of  legal  information  appears  to  have'Tjieen  the  lot 
of  all  parties :  and  the  commandant  of  the  dis- 
trict, to  whom  an  appeal  from  tlieir  sentences 
could  be  made,  was  no  less  defective  in  jurispru- 
dence. 

The  coast  of  Labrador  was,  in  1764,  dismem- 
bered from  Canada,  and  added  to  the  government 
of  Newfoundland :  and  Lake  Champlain,  with  all 
the  territory  tQ  the  southward  of  the  forty-fifth  de- 
gree of  nprth  Ijititude  was  joineid  (jo  the  province  of 
New  York.  :  »"    -,^     ^ 

The  ejttensive  regions  to  the  no^th,  and  west  of 
Michilimakinac,  in  Lake  Huron,  were  left  with- 
out  any  jurisdiction.     The  territory  from  the 


>»- 


.,il 


^VL^-— ^— .-•* , 


K  1' 


258  CANADA. 

mouth  of  the  Saint  Lawrence,  as  far  as  that  island, 
was  placed  under  the  authority  of  one  chief. 

The  laws  of  the  admiralty  of  England  were,  at 
the  same  time,  established  there :  but  these  could 
only  have  a  reference  to  the  subjects  of  that  coun- 
try, into  whose  hands  the  whole  of  the  maritime 
commerce  necessarily  flowed.  To  this  improve- 
ment, beneficial  to  the  interests  of  the  colony, 
another  of  yet  greater  importance  was  added. 
This  was  the  criminal  code  of  England. 

Before  the  introduction  of  this  equitable  mode 
of  administering  justice,  a  criminal,  real  or  sup- 
posed, could  be  seized,  thrown  into  confinement, 
and  jnterrogated,  without  a  knowledge  of  his 
crime  or  of  his  accuser;  without  being  able  to 
call  to  his  aid,  or  to  the  alleviation  of  his  distrese, 
either  friends,  relatives  or  counsel. 

He  was  compelled  upon  oath  to  declare  the 
truth,  or,  in  other  words,  to  accuse  himself,  with- 
out any  validity  being  attached  to  his  solemn  affir- 
mation. It  was  the  province  of  the  lawyers  or 
judges  to  embarrass  him  with  captious  questions, 
which  could  be  more  easily  evaded,  or  more  suc- 
cessfully answered,  by  effrontery  and  hardened 
villainy,  than  by  innocence,  involved  and  con- 
founded in  Sk  labyrinth  of  false  accusation.  The 
function  of  judge  appeared  to  consist  in  the  art 
of  finding  out  the  greatest  number  of  persons 
whom  he  might  accuse.  The  witnesses  who  had 
niiide  depositions  against  the  criminal  were  not 


-^v. 


,__      -  ..  iiufwi#' 


i  that  island, 
e  chief, 
md  were,  at 
:  these  could 
f  that  coun- 
le  maritime 
lis  improve- 
the  colony, 
was  added, 
id. 

litable  mode 
•eal  or  sup- 
jonfinement, 
edge  of  his 
;ing  able  to 
his  distress, 

declare  the 
mself,  with- 
olcmn  affir- 

lawyers  or 
s  questions, 
rmore  suc- 
d  hardened 
d  and  eon- 
ition.  The 
st  in  the  art 

of  persons 
ses  who  had 

il  were  not 


CANADA.  259 

introduced  to  his  presence  until  the  instant  before 
judgment  was  pronounced,  by  which  he  was  ei- 
ther acquitted  or  delivered  over  to  immediate  pun- 
ishment. In  the  former  case,  the  person  innocent 
obtained  no  indemnity  :  and  a  sentence  of  capital 
punishment  was  followed  by  confiscation  of  pro- 
perty. Such  is  the  abridgment  of  the  French 
criminal  law.  •  " 

The  Canadians  readily  conceived,  and  felt,  in 
a  lively  manner,  the  inestimable  advantage  of  a 
system  of  jurisdiction  too  equitable  to  admit  of 
any  of  the  tyrannical  modes  of  procedure  which 
they  had  before  been  accustomed  to  witness  or 
experience. 

These  people  viewed  not,  however,  with  an 
equal  degree  of  satisfaction  the  introduction  of 
the  civil  code  of  England.  They  were  prompted 
by  habit  and  prejudice  to  give  a  preference  to  the 
ancient  system  under  which  their  property  had 
been  protected.  The  magistrates,  and  other  ad- 
ministrators of  justice,  found  it,  therefore,  expe- 
dient to  depart  from  the  letter  of  the  law,  and  to 
inclint  in  their  decisions,  to  the  maxims  which 
had  before  prevailed. 

By  an  act  called  the  Quebec  act,  passed  in  the 
British  legislature  in  1775,  Canada  was  extended 
to  its  ancient  limits ;  and  its  former  system  of 
civil  law,  the  coutume  de  Paris,  was  restored. 
The  criminal  and  maritime  regulations  of  England 
were  retained,  free  exercise  of  the  Roman  catho^ 


t     ' 


\     i 


'^if 


'j*--  ■ 


r  iv 


I 


*'= 


360  CANADA. 

lie  religion  was  allowed :  and  the  profc^asion  of  that 
ihith  was  declared  to  be  no  impediment  to  the 
rights  of  the  subject,  or  to  his  holding  any  o^&cf 
under  the  colonial  govemn^ent.  Ecclesiastical 
dimes,  and  feoda^  obtigatiptt^'  resume^  th^^  ya< 
lidity.  •^•**     ^    ' 

A  council  formed  by  the  sovereign  might  annul 
these  arrangements,  and  exercise  any  power  ex- 
cept that  of  imposing  taxes.  This  body  consisted 
of  the  lieutenant-governor,  chief  justice,  secreta- 
ry of  the  province,  and  of  twenty  other  members 
chosen  indifferently  from  the  two  nations,  and  sub- 
ject only  to  an  oath  of  fidelity.  Each  of  these  re- 
ceived a  salary  of  an  hundred  pounds  sterling  a 
year.  The  expences  of  the  civil  government  of 
the  colony  amounted,  at  that  period,  to  twenty- 
five  thousand  pounds  sterling  a  year,  exclusive  of 
the  governor's  salary*  The  amount  of  the  colo-^ 
nial  revenue  exceeded  not  nine  thousand  pounds 
sterling. 

This  plan  of  vesting  in  the  same  individuals 
tjie  executive  and  legislative  powers  was  not,  by 
any  means,  productive  of  satisfaction.  The  sub- 
jects who  had  emigrated  thither  from  Great  Bri- 
tair,  and  who  had  established  themselves  in  the 
colony,  were  displeased  to  behold  a  portion  of 
their  most  valuable  privileges  withdrawn  from 
their  reach  :  and  the  Canadians,  who  had  begun 
to  relish  the  advantages  of  a  free  government,  and 
who  were  encouj'agcd  to  look  forward  for  the  in- 


"T*^, 


feasionofthat 
liment  to  the 
mg  any  ojficf 
Ecclesiastical 
ie4  tbe^*  ya« 

n  might  annul 
ny  power  ex- 
ody  consisted 
itice,  secreta- 
:her  members 
ions,  and  sub- 
ch  of  these  re- 
nds sterling  a 
overnment  of 
d,  to  twenty- 
',  exclusive  of 
t  of  the  colO" 
usand  pounds 

e  individuals 
$  was  not,  by 
n.  The  sub- 
m  Great  Bri* 
selves  in  the 
a  portion  of 
hdrawn  from 
lO  had  begun 
^ernment,  and 
ird  for  the  in- 


^i 


CAXADA.  261 

troduction  of  the  English  constitution,  viewed 
with  concern  a  barrier  interposed  to  the  accom- 
plishment of  their  expectations.  The  system  was 
not  contemplated  with  partiality,  even  on  the  part 
of  the  statesman  by  whom  it  was  originally  framed. 
But  its  temporary  operation  was  considered  as 
expedient,  on  account  of  the  symptoms  of  discon- 
tent which  had  then  appeared  in  several  of  the 
British  provinces  on  the  continent  of  North  Ame- 
rica. , 

The  country  continued  to  be  governed  in  this 
mode  until  1792.  By  an  act  of  the  thirty-first 
year  of  his  present  majesty's  reign,  the  Quebec 
bill  already  mentioned,  was  repealed,  and  all  the 
advantages  of  the  British  constitution  extended 
to  this  part  of  the  empire.  Agreeably  to  this 
law,  Quebec  was  divided  into  two  separate  pro- 
vinces, the  one  called  Upper,  the  other  Lower 
Canada.  A  legislative  council  and  an  assembly 
were  at  the  same  time  constituted  to  each :  and 
these  bodies  were  empowered,  with  the  assent  of 
the  governor,  to  pass  such  laws  as  should  not  be 
repugnant  to  the  act  to  which  they  owed  their 
political  existence.  The  legislative  council  of  Up- 
per Canada  consists  of  not  fewer  than  seven 
members ;  and  that  of  Lower  Canada  of  not  few- 
er  than  fifteen,  subject  to  be  augmented  according 
to  the  royal  pleasure.  The  members  must  be  na- 
tural born  subjects,  persons  naturalized,  or  such 
persons  as  became  subjects  by  the  conquest  and 


:>^ 


il 


•I 


f 


^ 


ii 


T 


iV-  I. 


'    ?iit 


■  i^ 


^82  CANADA. 

cession  of  the  country.  By  a  residence  out  of 
their  respective  provinces  for  a  period  of  four  en- 
tire successive  years,  without  leave  from  his  ma- 
jesty, or  for  the  space  of  two  continued  years 
without  leave  from  the  governor,  or  by  taking  an 
outh  of  allegiance  to  any  foreign  power,  the  seats 
of  any  members  of  the  legislative  council  become 
vacated.  These  offices  are  otherwise  held  during 
life.  The  right  of  appointing*  or  of  removing  the 
speaker  of  the  legislative  council  is  vested  in  the 
governor.  ^        . 

His  majesty  reserves  to  himself  the  power  of 
creating,  whenever  he  may  think  it  expedient, 
dignities  or  titles  in  these  provinces,  descendable 
to  heirs  male,  who  may  have  the  privilege  of  be- 
ing summoned,  when  of  age,  to  a  seat  in  tlie  le- 
gislative council.  But  this,  on  account  of  cer- 
tain incapacities,  may  be  suspended  during  life,, 
and  be  resumed  by  the  next  lawful  heir,  on  the 
death  of  the  party  who  had  been  so  deprived  of 
his  privilege.  ' 

The  governor,  by  the  king's  authority,  is  em- 
powered  to  call  a  house  of  assembly,  whose  mem- 
bers must  be  chosen  for  the  counties  or  circles, 
by  persons  possessed  of  landed  property  of  the 
clear  yearly  value  of  forty  shillings  sterling  or  up- 
wards. For  the  towns  the  representatives  must 
be  elected  by  voters  whose  property  consists  of  a 
dwelling-house  and  lot  of  ground  in  the  town,  of 
the  yearly  value  of  five  pounds  sterling  or  up. 


-.^..♦« 


idence  out  of 
iod  of  four  en- 

from  his  ma- 
mtinued  years 
►r  by  taking  an 
►wer,  the  seats 
ouncil  become 
ise  held  during 
f  removing  the 

vested  in  the 

'  the  power  of 

it  expedient, 

s,  descendable 

privilege  of  be- 

seat  in  the  le- 

iccount  ofcer- 

ed  during  life, 

ill  heir,  on  the 

so  deprived  of 

thority,  is  em- 
y.  whose  mem- 
ties  or  circles, 
roperty  of  the 

sterling  or  up- 
entatives  must 
y  consists  of  a 

in  the  town,  of 
iterling  or  up. 


tANADA.  26d 

wards,  or  who  have  been  resident  in  the  town  for 
twelve  months  next  before  the  date  of  the  writ  of 
summons,  and  shall  have  paid  one  year's  rent  for 
a  dwelling  or  lodging,  at  the  rate  of  at  least  ten 
pounds  sterling  per  annum. 

The  council  and  assembly  must  be  convoked 
once  in  twelve  months :  and  each  legislature  con- 
tinues for  a  term  of  four  years  and  no  longer,  sub- 
ject, however,  if  necessary,  to  be  dissolved  previ- 
ous to  the  expiration  of  that  period. 

The  king  in  council  may  declare  his  disallow- 
ance of  any  provincial  act  within  two  years  from 
the  time  of  its  receipt  in  England :  and  all  bills 
reserved  for  his  majesty's  pleasure,  are  to  have 
no  operation  or  validity  until  the  royal  assent  be 
communicated  to  the  colonial  legislature. 

A  court  of  civil  jurisdiction,  composed  of  the 
governor  with  the  executive  council,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  hearing  and  deciding  on  appeals  from  the 
courts  of  law,  was,  by  the  same  act,  established 
in  both  provinces.  From  hence  a  further  appeal 
may  be  made  to  the  king  in  council. 

The  lands  in  Upper  Canada  must  be  granted 
in  free  and  common  soccage  :  and  those  in  the 
lower  province  must  likewise  be  bestowed  ac- 
cording to  the  same  mode  of  tenure,  if  required 
by  the  grantee.    . 

The  governor  of  either  province,  upon  being 
so  authorized  by  his  majesty,  may  with  the  advice 
of  ills  couiicii,  erect  parsonages,  and  endo^v  them* 


•  n 


l\ 


''a 


ik.uAa>kX 


f 


hi:  ; 


^■'\ 


264  CANADA. 

He  may  also  present  incumbents,  all  or  whom 
must  be  subject  to  the  eccle^^iastical  power  of  the 
protestant  bishop. 

The  operation  of  this  act  of  the  British  legisla- 
ture was,  by  proclamation  of  the  lieutenant-go- 
rernor,  declared  to  take  effect  in  both  provinces 
on  the  twenty- sixth  day  of  December  1791 :  and 
another  proclamation  was  published  on  the  se- 
venth of  May  in  the  following  year,  for  the  divi- 
sion of  the  province  of  Lower  Canada  into  coun- 
ties, cities  and  boroughs.  On  the  fourteenth  of 
the  same  month  writs  were  issued,  returnable  on 
the  tenth  of  July.  1  he  names  of  the  counties  are ; 
Gasp6,  Comwallis,  Devon,  Hertford,  Dorches- 
ter, Buckinghamshire,  Richelieu,  Bedford,  Sur- 
rey, Kent,  Huntingdon,  York,  Montreal,  Effing- 
ham, Leinster,  Warwick,  Saint  Maurice,  Hamp- 
shire, Quebec  county,  Northumberland,  Orleans. 
The  cities,  Quebec,  upper  and  lower  town, 
Montreal,  eastward  and  westward  divisions ;  bo- 
roughs, William  Henry  or  Sore),  and  Three  Ri- 
vers. 

An  act  was  passed  in  1794  for  the  division  of 
the  province  of  Lower  Canada  into  three  districts, 
and  for  augmenting  the  number  of  judges ;  in  con- 
sequence of  which,  the  courts  of  judicature  at 
Quebec  are  now  composed  of  a  ghief  justice  and 
three  puisne  judge? ;  those  of  Montreal  of  a  chief 
justice  and  three  puisne  judges ;  that  of  Three  Ri- 
vers, of  one  judge;  and  that  of  Gaspe,  of  one 
judge. 


Eve 

power 

necess 

cured 

parts  c 

freque 

in   hej 

health. 

The 

amoun 

more  t 

circum 

having 

several 

lieres  1 

ductior 

sisted, 

who  fo 

affluent 

to  avail 

Louis 

tion ; 

occupa 

The 

extendi 

rived  fi 

no  mea 

The 

to  four 

aad  to  J 


~  -  «  "s 


-«.,  .r^ 


n 


all  of  whom 
power  of  the 

ritish  legisla. 
ieutenant-go- 
oth  provinces 
M  1791 :  and 
d  oil  the  se- 
,  for  the  divi- 
da  into  coiin- 
fourteenth  of 
returnable  on 
counties  arc ; 
rd,  Dorches- 
kdford,  Sur- 
itreal,  Effing- 
urice,  Hamp- 
and,  Orleans, 
lower  town, 
ivisions;  bo- 
d  Three  Ri- 

ic  division  of 
hree  districts, 
dges ;  in  con- 
judicature  at 
ef  justice  and 
real  of  a  chief 
of  Three  Ri- 
aspe,  of  one 


CANADA.  265 

Every  pefson  in  Canada  mny  liave  within  his 
power  the  means  of  acquiring  a  subsistence.  The 
necessaries  of  Hfe  arc,  in  general,  there  to  be  pro- 
cured at  a  cheaper  rate  than  in  most  of  the  other 
parts  of  North  America.  The  climate,  although 
frequently  inclining  to  extremes,  both  in  cold  and 
in  heat,  is  i^tvertheless  lavourable  to  human 
health,  and  to  the  increase  of  population. 

The  number  of  noblesse  born  in  the  province 
amounted,  during  the  French  government,  to 
more  than  that  of  all  the  other  colonies.  This 
circumstance  originated  from  several  families  there 
having  been  ennobled  by  the  sovereign,  and  from 
several  officers  of  the  regiment  of  Carignan-Sa- 
lieres  having  remained  in  the  colony  after  the  re- 
duction of  their  corps.  The  population  thus  con- 
sisted, in  a  considerable  proportion,  of  gentlemen 
who  found  themselves  in  situations  by  no  means 
affluent.  They  became,  therefore,  necessitated 
to  avail  themselves  of  the  privilege  granted  by 
Louis  the  Fourteenth  to  persons  in  their  condi- 
tion ;  and  had  recourse,  for  their  support,  to  the 
occupation  of  retailers  of  merchandise. 

The  right  of  the  chuce  and  of  fishing  is  here 
extended  to  all  persons.  The  taxes,  chiefly  de« 
rived  from  wine  and  spirituous  liquors,  can  by 
no  means  be  considered  as  burdensome. 

The  inhabitants  of  Canada  may  be  divided  in- 
to four  classes — those  belonging  to  the  church 
and  to  religious  orders ;  the  noblesse  or  seigneurs; 


•^   \ 


W 


,^  :'"•?;. 


fc»a.ja.x:ati^-. 


If 


). 


266  CANAT5A. 

tl>e  mercantile  body ;  and  the  land  holders,  stiled 
habitants,  r  -> 

The  Roman  catholic  clergy  of  the  province  arc 
more  distinguished  by  devotion,  benevolence, 
inoffensive  conduct,  and  humility,  than  they  are 
by  learning  or  genius.  They  are  regular  and  ri- 
gid in  the  practice  of  their  religious  ceremonies, 
and  more  devout,  with  perhaps  less  bigotry,  than 
the  ecclesiastics  of  any  other  country  where  the 
same  religion  prevails* 

The  merchants  are  of  two  kinds,  the  importers 
and  the  retailers.  The  latter  receive  the  mer- 
chandise on  credit,  and  being  settled  in  different 
parts  of  the  province,  give  produce  in  return  for 
their  goods. 

In  1783  an  account  was  taken  of  the  number 
of  inhabitants  in  the  province;  it  was  found  to 
amount  to  one  hundred  and  thirteen  thousand  of 
English  and  French  ;  exclusive  of  the  loyalists 
"who  settled  in  the  upper  province,  and  were  in 
numbtr  about  ten  thousand.  The  population  of 
Lower  Canada  may  at  present  be  admitted,  by 
moderate  computation,  to  be  not  less  than  tv.o 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  persons  ;  and  that  of 
the  upper  province  eighty  thousand.  ^  -,' 

The  secular  and  regular  priests  in  the  country 
exceed  not  a  hundred  and  eighty :  and  the  num- 
ber of  nuns  of  different  orders  may  amount  to  two 
hundred  and  fifty.  There  are  upwards  of  a  hun- 
dred and  twenty  churches,  and  seven  convents.* 


iolders,  stiled 

■'?   "^ 
e  province  arc 

benevolence, 
than  they  are 
egular  and  ri- 
s  ceremonies, 

bigotry,  than 
y  where  the 

the  importers 
i;ive  the  mer- 
zd  in  difierent 

in  return  for 

;  the  number 

ivas  found  to 

1  thousand  of 

the  loyalists 

and  were  in 

population  of 

admitted,  by 

less  than  two 

;  and  that  of 

n  the  country 
and  the  num- 
imount  to  two 
irds  of  a  hun- 
m  convents^ 


CANADA.  267 

The  hahitantSy  or  luiKlholders,  are  honest,  hos- 
pitable, religious,  inoffensive,  uninformed  ;  pos* 
sessing  much  simplicity,  modesty,  and  civility. 
Indolent,  attached  to  ancient  prejudices,  and  limit, 
ing  their  exertions  to  an  acquisition  of  the  ncccs« 
saries  of  life,  they  neglect  the  conveniences. 
Their  propensity  to  a  state  of  inaction,  retains 
many  of  them  in  poverty.  But  as  their  wants 
are  circumscribed,  they  are  happy.  Contentment 
of  mind,  and  mildness  of  disposition,  seem  to  be 
the  leading  features  in  their  character.  Their  ad- 
dress to  strangers  is  more  polite  and  unembarras- 
sed than  that  of  any  other  peasantry  in  the  world. 
Rusticity,  either  in  manners  or  in  language,  is 
unknown  even  to  those  who  reside  in  situations 
the  most  remote  from  the  towns.  They  have 
little  inclination  for  novelty  or  improvement ;  and 
exhibit  no  great  portion  of  genius,  which  may 
perhaps  be  in  some  degree  attributed  to  the  want 
of  education,  of  examples  to  pursue,  and  of  oppor- 
tunities to  excite  emulation,  or  to  unfold  the  la- 
tent qualities  of  the  mind. 

Their  constitution,  at  an  early  period  of  life,  j» 
healthy  and  robust :  and  they  can  with  patience 
and  resolution  encounter  great  fatigues,  when  ne- 
cessity calls  for  exertion.  Both  men  and  women 
frequently  live  to  an  advanced  period  of  life  : 
but  they  soon  look  old  ;  and  their  strength  is  not 
of  long  duration.  Many  of  the  women  are  hand- 
some when  young :  but  as  they  partake  of  the 


**■', 


^  V 


*-.*^* .—.-«.  *—^,*,_ 


1^' 


'/-'l:' 


iiCS  CANADA. 

labours  of  tlie  Held,  and  expose  t!icmse1vc3  upon 
iill  occasions  to  the  influence  of  the  wcaihtr,  thcj 
sonn  Ijccome  of  a  sallow  hue,  and  of  a  masculine 
firm.  I'.ach  family  can,  from  its  own  resources, 
supply  its  wants.  They  manufacture  their  own 
li.icns  and  woollen  stuffs;  tan  the  hides  of  their 
c  iltlc  ;  make  shoes  and  stockings ;  aie  their  ow n 
carpenters,  m  i^ons,  wheelers,  andtaylors.  They 
are  suiiiciently  intelligent  with  regard  to  objects 
w  hieli  relate  to  their  own  interest ;  and  arc  sel- 
dom  liable  to  be  ovcr-reachtd. 

I'hey  are,  with  some  degree  of  justice,  taxed 
with  ingratitude.  This  may  perhaps  proceed 
fi  om  their  natural  levity,  w  hich  incapacitates  the 
mind  from  reccivhig  a  sufficient  impression  of  ob- 
ligations bestowed.  They  are  bad  servants ;  be- 
cause indolence  and  a  spirit  of  independence  make 
the  yoke  of  subjection,  however  light,  appear  to 
them  burdensome  and  unpleasant.  They  who 
are  musters  are,  on  the  contrary,  kind  and  indul- 
gent to  their  domestics.  Accustomed  to  concern 
themselves  only  in  their  own  affairs,  they  are  not 
remarkable  for  constancy  in  friendship. 

On  the  commencement  of  winter,  the  habitants 
kill  their  hogs,  cattle,  and  poultry,  for  their  own 
consumption,  and  for  sale  at  market.  The  pro- 
visions are  kept  in  the  garrets  of  the  dwelling- 
houses,  where  they  soon  become  frozen  ;  and  are 
thus  preserved  until  wanted  for  use.  Vegetables 
are  deposited  in  ce'iars,  or  in  excavations  of  the 


V. 


CAffAHA, 


269 


mselvca  upon 
wcathtT,  thcj 
if  a  masculine 
vvn  resources, 
J  re  their  own 
hides  oi"  their 
ai  e  their  own 
yiors.  They 
d  to  objects 
and  arc   sel- 

justice,  taxed 
haps  proceed 
capacitates  the 
ression  of  ob- 
servants; be- 
mdence  make 
ht,  appear  to 

They  who 
nd  and  indul- 
ed  to  concern 
,  they  are  not 
lip. 

,  the  habitants 
for  their  own 
t.  The  pro- 
the  dwelhng- 
zen  ;  and  are 

Vegetables 
ations  of  the 


earth  made  for  the  purpose,  Ixjyond  the  influence 
of  the  cold.  The  whole  of  the  Canadian  iiihabi- 
tants  are  remarkably  fond  of  dancing ;  and  fre- 
quently amuse  themselves  at  all  seasons  with  that 
agreeable  exercise. 

To  clear  lands  in  Lower  Canada,  they  cut  down 
the  wood  with  a  hatchet,  heap  it  together,  and 
burn  it.  The  large  roots  are  extirpated  by  dig- 
ging into  the  ground.  The  soil  thus  laid  open  be- 
comes covered  with  vegetation  :  and  cattle  arc 
sent  to  graze  upon  it.  This  mode  is  tedious 
and  expensive ;  and  costs,  including  labour,  a- 
bout  thirty  shillings  sterling  per  acre.  The 
Americans  have  introduced  into  the  province  a 
practice  much  more  simple  and  economical,  and 
attended  with  equal  success.  They  cut  down 
the  trees ;  burn  them ;  and  sow  between  the 
trunks,,  after  having  turned  up  the  earth  with  a 
harrow  or  hoe.  A  third  method  is  by  setting 
fire  to  the  growing  woods,  and  cutting  around 
the  bark  of  the  larger  trees,  to  prevent  the  sap 
from  ascending :  these  dry  up  during  the  first 
year,  and  cease  to  re -produce  their  foliage. 
The  farmer  then  sows  his  grain,  and  removes  at 
leisure  the  trees  that  are  dead.  The  cedar  and 
spruce  trees,  whose  roots  are  incorruptible,  and 
long  resist  the  ploughshare,  it  becomes  necessary 
to  eradicate  before  the  land  can  be  sown. 
.  rAn  active  and  intelligent  farmer  will  in  the  end 
find  it  more  advantageous  to  take  uncleared  land. 


'ii^ 


1 


h 


::i 


-iJt— ^  -••'■f^ 


V 


270  CANADA. 

or  that  which  is  half  cleared,  than  to  purchase 
such  as  has  been  long  in  cultivation.  The  latter 
is  subject  to  have  been  exhausted  by  the  bad 
mode  of  farming  practised  in  the  country.  The 
fields  arc  generally  laid  out  m  iih  little  taste  :  and 
it  is  certainly  more  agreeable  for  him  to  arrange, 
after  his  own  plan,  his  house,  his  offices,  his 
fields,  and  his  avenues.  .  .       • 

In  Lower  Canada,  acquisition  of  property  of 
two  kinds  may  be  made  ;  the  one  in  the  depen- 
dence on  a  seigneur  ;  the  other  from  government, 
in  free  and  common  soecage.  Lands  of  the  last 
description  are  divided  into  townships^  and  each 
township  into  lots  of  two  hundred  acres  each,  re- 
ceding in  depth  from  the  front  line.  When  a  per- 
son obtains  twelve  hundred  acres,  he  pays  half 
the  expence  of  the  survey,  and  his  proportion  of 
fees :  and  two- sevenths  of  the  land  are  reserved 
for  the  disposal  of  government. 

The  borders  of  the  great  river,  and  those  of 
most  of  the  rivers  which  disembogue  themselves 
into  it,  are  occupied  by  seigneuriesy  under  the 
regulation  of  the  French  laws.  The  lands  at  the 
disposal  of  governnient,  part  of  which  are  con- 
ceded, lie  retired  in  the  depths,  between  the  ri- 
vers Chaudiere,  Saint  Francis,  Yamaska,  and 
Cliambly,  extending  to  the  forty-fifth  parallel, 
and  are  subject  to  English  rights. 

The  usual  condition^  adopted  in  letting  ferms 
we,  that  the  proprietor  should  furnish  the  cattle. 


\.*r- 


to  purchase 
The  latter 
by  the  bad 
untry.  The 
e  taste :  and 
n  to  arrange, 
i  offices,  his 


)  I 


f  property  of 

[1  the  depen- 

i  government, 

ds  of  the  last 

ips,  and  each 

cres  each,  re- 

When  a  per- 

he  pays  half 

proportion  of 

are  reserved 

and  those  of 
le  themselves 
,  under  the 
le  lands  at  the 
tich  are  con- 
ween  the  ri- 
''amaska,  and 
fifth  parallel, 

letting  farms 
ibh  the  cattle. 


CANADA.  271 

and  incur  the  expence  of  clearing,  of  making 
new  ditches  and  fences,  and  of  supplying  utensils 
of  husbandry.  The  produce  of  every  descrip- 
tion is  afterwards  equally  divided  between  him 
and  the  farmer.  Tlie  pul)lic  charges  are,  a  con* 
tribution  of  labour,  or  of  money,  for  the  repair  of 
roads  and  bridges,  and  the  payment  of  the  eccle- 
siastical dime,  at  a  twenty-sixth  part  on  wheat,  oats, 
barley,  rye,  and  pease.  ,;  > 

The  average  produce  of  the  soils  in  Lower  Ca- 
nada may  be  estimated  at  fifteen  to  one  for  oats ; 
twelve  for  barley  ;  six  for  pease ;  and  eleven  for 
summer  wheat.  The  Canadian  farmer  general- 
ly allows  after  wheat,  a  natural  layer,  which  is 
pastured  on  by  cattle  ;  and  consists  of  small  white 
clover  and  grass.  This  mode  is  highly  unecono- 
mical for  breeding  of  these  animals.  In  the  fol- 
lowing autumn  the  land  is  ploughed,  and  in  the 
spring  sown  with  wheat  or  oats. 

The  twentieth  of  April  is  the  usual  time  at 
which  the  sowing  commences  in  Lower  Canada ; 
and  the  whole  of  the  seed  is  usually  in  the  ground 
before  the  fifteenth  of  May.  The  season  for  be- 
ginning the  harvest  is  early  in  August. 

The  Canadians  have,  for  several  years  past,  a- 
dopted  the  practice  of  British  husbandmen,  by  in- 
troducing manure  into  their  lands,  and  they  are 
now  convinced  of  the  utility  and  profit  attending 
that  mode  of  culture. 

A  considerable  proportion  of  the  lands  in  Low- 


1! 


«». 


«*'4 1  bill's!. 


4 


f,i 


A"     ■# 


272  CANADA. 

er  Canada  is  of  a  light  soil :  and  it  is  an  opinion 
generally  received,  that  these  are  soon  exhausted. 
The  rains,  which  fall  heavily  upon  a  mountainous 
country,  will  more  readily  carry  away  a  sandy 
than  a  clayey  soil,  the  particles  of  which  adhere 
more  strongly  to  each  other.  A  soil  may  become 
impoverished  by  the  loss  of  those  earthy  particles 
into  which  the  plants  which  grow  upon  it  are  at 
length  reduced,  and  of  which  it  is  deprived  when 
they  are  not  allowed  to  decay  upon  the  spot  where 
they- have  been  reared.  Plants  do  not  take  away 
any  sensible  weight  from  the  soil :  and  it  is  the 
moisture  with  which  the  earth  is  watered  that  is 
the  sole  cause  of  vegetation.  The  soil,  it  ap- 
pears, is  nothing  more  than  a  matrix  in  which  the 
germina  of  plants  receive  their  growth,  and  which 
they  seem  only  to  derive  from  heat  and  moisture. 
Water  alone  may  contain  all  the  salts,  and  all  the 
principles  that  are  to  concur  in  producing  this 
growth.  A  light  soil  is  tilled  by  the  most  trifling 
labour;  and  is  easily  penetrated  by  rains.  But 
a  heavy  rain  will  press  it  together,  and  thereby 
prevent  it  from  imbibing  moisture  to  any  consi- 
derable depth.  In  this  state,  if  wet  weather  be 
soon  succeeded  by  sunshine,  the  humidity  is  eva- 
porated :  and  it  is  deprived  of  the  nourishment 
which  it  should  have  otherwise  supplied  to  its 
vegetables.  Prejudice  then  determined  the  soil 
to  be  exhausted  and  ruined.  It  was  abandoned^ 
when  nothing  more  was  wanting,  to  ifv/aid  with 


X 


m 


f^*»«r 


;  an  opinion 
I  exhausted, 
nountainous 
sray  a  sandy 
/hich  adhere 
nay  become 
thy  particles 
pon  it  are  at 
prived  when 
e  spot  where 
attake  away 
and  it  is  the 
tered  that  is 
*  soil,  it  ap- 
in  which  the 
h,  and  which 
pd  moisture. 
,  and  all  the 
educing  this 
most  trifling 

rains.     But 

and  thereby 
:o  any  consi- 

weather  be 
lidity  is  eva- 
nourishment 
pplied  to  its 
ined  the  soil 

abandoned. 

If v/ard  with 


C  AH  AD  A.  27S 

aniple  returns  the  proprietor  by  whom  it  was  ne- 
glected, than  the  application  of  a  proper  mode  of 
agriculture.  -.   ..         :    ^^al  x 

A  somewhat  less  degree  of  friability  constitutes 
what  is  termed  a  strong  soil,  which  requires  till- 
age of  a  more  laborious  nature*  But  this  species 
of  land,  when  once  prepared,  manured,  and  water- 
ed, preserves  for  a  much  longer  time  its  mois- 
ture, which  is  a  necessary  vehicle  of  the  salts,  whe- 
ther they  be  conveyed  and  successively  renevv'ed 
by  rains  or  by  artificial  watering.  Manure  sepa- 
rates the  soil,  and  raises  it  for  a  time,  either  by  its 
active  particles,  which,  in  compact  soils,  can  only 
unfold  themselves  by  degrees,  or  by  its  oily  par- 
ticles, which  fattening  land  of  the  former  species 
render  it  capable  of  retaining,  for  a  longer  time, 
the  moisture,  which  its  too  great  laxity,  arid  the 
incoherence  of  its  particles  would  otherwise  soon 
allow  to  escape. 

Manure,  therefore,  properly  applied,  supplies 
in  a  certain  degree,  and  according  to  its  quality, 
the  deficiency  of  tillage.  But  no  expedient  can 
be  an  equivalent  for  rain.  In  America  there  is 
no  rainy  season  which  is  not  fruitful ;  whilst,  in 
a  dry  season,  the  income  diminishes  sometimes 
one- half. 

From  the  position  of  the  settled  part  of  Upper 
Canada,  the  climate  is  comparatively  mild  in  win- 
ter, which  is  there  but  of  short  duration,  and  fre- 
quendy  without  much  frost.     It  sometimes  in- 


'i     ; 


n\i 


274  CANADA'.. 

deed  happens,  that  in  the  course  of  that  season 
there  is  hardly  any  snow.  Neither  Lake  Onta* 
rio,  Lake  Erie,  Lake  Huron,  or  Lake  Michigan, 
arc  subject  to  be  frozen  at  any  great  distance  from 
their  coasts.  But  Lake  Superior,  from  its  north- 
erly situation,  is  usually  covered  by  a  solid  body 
of  ice,  for  an  extent  of  seventy  miles  from  land. 

To  attribute  the  predominance  of  cold  in  Cana- 
da to  the  multiplicity  and  extent  of  its  rivers 
and  lakes,  appears  to  be  an  hypothesis  not  altoge- 
ther correct.  The  humidity  of  the  earth,  and  the 
abundance  of  water  every  where  diffused  through- 
out its  surface,  contribute,  doubtless,  in  the 
summer  months,  to  produce  a  coolness,  by  the 
evaporation  which  then  takes  place,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  dry  and  warm  state  of  the  atmo- 
sphere. But,  in  winter,  when  the  degree  of  cold 
has  once  attained  the  freezing  point,  it  can  re- 
ceive no  augmentation  from  water  ;  that  element, 
considerably  warmer  than  the  part  of  the  atmo- 
sphere to  which  it  is  contiguous,  continues  to  emit 
warmth  until  its  surface  becomes  congealed. 

The  energy  of  heat,  and  that  of  cohesive  at- 
traction, acting  in  constant  opposition  to  each 
other,  enter  intimately  into  every  operation,  by 
which  changes  arc  produced  in  the  properties 
of  substances.  These  mutations  of  capacities 
seem  essentially  requisite  to  the  preservation  of  a 
more  equal  temperature,  than  otherwise  might 
take  place  in  the  elements,  of  which  our   bodies 


VAIfABA. 


275 


that  season 
Lake  Onta. 

e  Michigan, 
istance  from 
m  its  north- 
a  solid  body 
from  land, 
iold  in  Cana- 
of  its  rivers 
is  not  altoge- 
arth,  and  the 
sed  through- 
tless,   in  the 
iiess,   by  the 
2,  in   conse- 
of  the  atmo- 
Lgree  of  cold 
t,  it  can  re- 
that  element, 
>f  the  atmo- 
inucs  to  emit 
ngealed. 
cohesive   at- 
tion  to  each 
peration,  by 
le  properties 
Df  capacities 
ervation  of  a 
rwise   might 
uur   bodies 


form  a  part,  and  by  which  we  are  environed. 
The  evaporation  from  water  mitigiites  the  solsti- 
tial warmth  :  and  the  quantity  of  heat  which  es- 
capes previous  to  the  congelation  of  that  body, 
restrains  the  domination  of  frost  from  attaining 
that  degree  of  exacerbation,  at  which  it  might 
otherwise  arrive. 

Were  the  power  of  cold  capable  of  pervading 
"with  a  velocity  equal  to  that  of  light,  every  part 
of  an  immense  body  in  a  liquid  state,  the  consoli- 
dation not  progressive,  and  in  a  great  measure 
superficial,  would  take  immediate  eft'ect,  when- 
ever the  whole  could  be  brought  to  the  tempera- 
ture of  thirty-two  degrees  of  Fahrenheit's  ther- 
mometer.  The  thawing  of  mountains  of  ice  and 
and  snow,  were  heat  to  act  in  the  same  manner, 
would  with  equal  rapidity  take  place. 

The  long  continuation  of  frost  and  snows, 
which  for  a  period  of  near  six  months  in  the  year 
prevail  in  Lower  Canada,  may  be  attributed  to 
the  immense  and  desert  regions  which  stretch 
towards  the  north.  The  snow  seldom  falls  in 
any  quantity  in  that  province,  unless  when  the 
wind  blows  from  the  north-east,  which  is  the 
quarter  of  the  mountains  of  ice.  In  passing  over 
the  unfrozen  parts  of  the  sea,  the  current  of  cold 
air  drives  before  it  the  vapours  emitted  from 
thence,  which  become  immediately  converted  in* 
to  snow.  Whilst  the  wind  continue  s  in  that  di» 
rectiun,  and  whilst  the  snows  are  fallings  tlie  de- 


•f 


Vis*l 


;i 


»'■»■■■ '~fgj|||l  ■;■-■( ^Yi''^rjj^j'J||li,  ,     -|\jjij)'  '•■■  '"^^f    ,,,,_    _    <•- 


k-.f.«:.5l««*±C^'J!=-»«»SiMQ»r^»... 


i 


I  •■ 


y        I 


276  '  CANAHA, 

gree  of  cold  is  diminished ;  but  no  sooner  does 
it  change  its  position  to  the  north-west,  than  the 
co!d  is  considerably  augmented.  'J  he  evaporation 
of  the  snows  coiitributts  much  to  render  so  keen 
the  winds  of  the  wtbt,  and  north-west,  which, 
previous  to  their  arrival  in  Lower  Canada,  tra- 
verse immense  counti  i(  s,  and  a  prodigious  chain 
of  mountains  enveloped  in  'hut  fltecy  covering. 

The  "levation  of  the  earth  is  not  the  least  im- 
portant cause  of  the  subtilty  of  the  air,  and  of 
the  severity  of  cold  in  this  part  of  America  ;  as 
the  regions  to  the  northward  probably  extend  to 
the  pole.  The  winds  in  Lower  Canada  general- 
ly proceed  from  the  north-west,  or  north-east. 
W  hen  blowing  from  the  former  quarter,  they 
pass  over  a  long  tract  of  territory  :  and  the  sur- 
face of  the  earth  within  the  limits  of  their  course, 
becomes  deprived  of  a  portion  of  its  heat  to  miti- 
gate the  air.  But  on  continuing  to  blow  in  the 
same  direction,  they  v.ill  sweep  over  a  surface 
already  cooled,  and  will  thence  receive  no  abate- 
ment of  their  severity.  Advancing  in  this  man- 
ner, they  produce  in  their  course  the  ir.tenseiiess 
of  frost.  V\  hen  the  wiiids  pass  over  large  collec- 
tions of  water.,  the  surface  becomes  cool,  and  Uie 
air  proportionably  mitigated.  The  colder  w  ater, 
more  w  eight}  than  that  beneath,  descends  Its 
plucc  is  supplied  by  that  w  hich  is  warmer :  and 
a  continutd  revoiution  thus  takes  place,  until  llic 


surfac 

m^nt  ( 

th( 

Spread 

to  the  ( 

tdbf  \ 

other : 

iy  in  tl 

bramb 

getatio 

the  sur 

sit  ther 

summe 

tlie  pre 

winter, 

temper 

trees  wl 

sufficiei 

tain  the 

over  th 

tie  alter 

are  then 

riod  tha; 

prolong 

The  c 

contribi 

Canada ; 

habitati( 

likewise 


%■' 


-*-«r 


>oncr  does 
it,  than  the 
evaporation 
ler  so  keen 
est,  which, 
jnada,   tra- 
pjious  chain 
coverinp^. 
le  least  ii  fl- 
air,  and  of 
.merica ;  as 
f  extend  to 
ida  general- 
north-east, 
larter,   they 
,nd  the  sur- 
heir  course, 
leat  to  miti- 
flow  in  the 
r  a  surface 
e  no  abate- 
11  this  man- 
jr.tenseaess 
urge  coUec- 
lol,  and  tlie 
Ider  water, 
cends      Its 
larmcr:  and 
pe,  until  the 


CANADA,  ^7i 

surface  becomes  solid,  and  the  furthfer  develope- 
m^nt  of  warmth  is  restrained. 

The  vast  and  immeasurable  forests  which  over, 
spread  the  face  of  Canada,  essentially  contribute 
to  the  domination  of  cold.  The  leaves  and  branch- 
es bf  the  trees  are  thickly  interwoven  with  each 
other :  and  the  surface  of  the  ground,  particular- 
ly in  the  northern  parts,  is  covered  by  shrubs, 
brambles,  and  the  more  rank  productions  of  ve- 
getation. Into  these  gloomy  recesses  the  rays  of 
the  sun  can  with  difficulty  penetrate,  and  can  vi- 
sit them  but  during  a  transient  portion  of  the  long 
summer's  day.  The  earth  overshadowed  during 
the  prevalence  of  heat,  and  covered  by  snow  in 
winter,  can  emit  but  a  small  degree  of  warmth  to 
temper  the  piercing  winds :  and  the  leaves  of  the 
tfees  which  are  exposed  to  the  sun,  possess  not  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  matter  to  imbibe,  or  to  re- 
tain the  effisct  of  his  rays.  The  winds,  in  passing 
:)ver  these  forests,  can  therefore  undergo  but  lit- 
tle alteration  in  their  temperature.  The  snows 
are  there  retained  in  the  spring,  to  a  much  later  pe. 
riod  than  on  the  cleared  grounds,  and  tend  to  the 
prolongation  of  cold. 

The  clearing  and  cultivation  of  lands  have  much 
contributed  to  the  amelioration  of  the  climate  oi 
Canada :  and  the  number  of  fires  kept  up  in  the 
habitations  in  different  parts  of  the  country,  may 
likewise  have  a  share  in  producing  this  changc- 

A  A 


•/ 


278 


CANADA. 


Certain  however  it  is,  that  the  winters  in  those 
parts  of  Lower  Canada,  in  the  vicinity  of  Que- 
bec, have  remitted  several  degrees  of  their  former 
severity.  An  i^llig^nt 'priest  in  the  island  of 
Orleans,  kept  for  half  a  centpry,.  a  correct  meteor- 
ological table:  and  his  'Successor  continued  it 
for  eight  years  longQ^j^'  The  result  of  their  obser- 
vationS  tended  to  prove,  that  the  medium  of  cold 
in  winter  had  diminibl)ed  eight  degrees  within 
•  that  period.  *     «      '[     .      . 

'Qie  mercury  in-  tne  thermometer  sometimes 
descends^  m^nteffetheAirty- sixth  degree  be- 
low zero  in  fahrenhdfe's  scale.  But  the  atmo- 
splicre  rSrdy  continues  Jong,  in  that  dry  and  in- 
tense state... -^     'Vi,4 :  ■'■<■'  v^;.>A  _. 

The  river. Saint  Litwrence  is  seldom  frozen  so 
far  down  its  course,  as  Quebec,  although  immense 
bodies  of  ice  crowding  upon  each  other,  continue 
to  float  up  and  down  with  the  tides.  The  win- 
ter of  1799  was  the  last  in  which  what  is  called 
the  Pont  was  formed,  and  when  carriages  passed 
across  the  ice  from  Quebec  to  Point  Levi.  The 
ice  in  these  regions  is  of  a  much  harder  nature 
than  that  of  climates  less  subject  to  the  influence 
of  severe  frost.  It  contains  more  air  and  its  con- 
texture is  much  stronger,  from  the  great  degree 
of  cold  by  which  it  is  congealed.  Being  sudden- 
ly formed,  it  is  less  transparent,  as  well  as  harder, 
than  that  which  is  more  tardy  in  its  formation,. 


A!th 

proc 

lutio 

space 

acqui 

Fahn 

fluid! 

frequ 

is  sui 

chang 

its  su 

Tb 

thickr 

ble  of 

on  the 

bordap 

on  th< 

over,  i 

the    c< 

of  wa 

is  high 

face  to 

Hor 

pidity 

pens, 

it  beco 

The 

it  is  no 

suaity  i 


\: 


■*-——--?! 


iters  in  those 
inity  of  Que- 
f  their  former 
the  island  of 
jrrect  meteor- 
continued  it 
of  their  obser- 
edium  of  cold 
egrces  within 

ter  sometimes 
nth  degree  be- 
kit  the  atmo- 
at  dry  andin- 

dom  frozen  so 
pugh  immense 
3ther,  continue 
IS,     The  win- 
w'hat  is  called 
irriages  passed 
lit  Levi.     The 
harder  nature 
3  the  influence 
lir  and  its  con- 
ic great  degree 
Being  sudden- 
well  as  harder, 
its  formation,^ 


CANADA.  270 

Although  the  congelation  of  water  be  rapid  in  its 
process,  a  considerable  time  is  required  for  its  so- 
lution when  congealed.  If  ice,  formed  in  the 
space  of  six  minutes*,  be  placed  Jn  such  air  as  has 
acquired  the  temperature  of  forty-five  degrees  of 
Fahrenheit,  it  will  be  some  hours  in  resuming  its 
fluidity.  In  weather  peift^tlly  calm,  water  will 
frequently  acquire  a  degree  of  cold  beyond  what 
is  sufficient  for  its  cot^gelation,  without  any 
change  in  its  liquid  state.  But  jf  a^  breeze  rufRe  . 
its  surface,  it  becomes  immediately  solid.     , 

The  ice  on  the  rivers  In  Can^aa,,'^  acquires  a 
diickness  of  two  feet- and  lipw^rd*  i  andls  capar-  - 
ble  of  supporting^  any  degr^ei  of  weight.  That 
on  the  borders  of  the.  Saint  LaWrrticei  called  the 
bordage,  sometimes  excecids  six  feet.  The  ice 
on  the  centre  of  the  stream,  where  it  is  frozen 
over,  is  the  thinnest  part,  occasioned  probably  by 
the  convexity  of  the  river.  In  great  bodies 
of  water  which  run  with  rapidity,  the  centre 
is  higher  frequently  by  some  feet  than  the  sur- 
face towards  either  of  the  shores. 

Horses  and  carriages  are  driven  with  great  ra- 
pidity along  the  ice  :  and  an  accident  seldom  hap- 
pens, except  sometimes  towards  the  spring,  when 
it  becomes  rotten  and  insecure. 

The  accumulation  of  snow  in  the  woods,  where 
it  is  not  subject  lo  be  drifted  by  the  winds,  is  u- 
3ualty  six  or  seven  feet  in  depth  about  the  end  of 


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280  CXkai>a; 

f  cbruary,  when  it  has  attained  its  greats  quan- 
tity. The  influence  of  the  sun,  after  that  period^ 
gradu^ly  consunries  it,  although  fresh  supplies 
continue  at  intervals  to  fall,  sometimes  for  six 
weeks  after  that  period. .  The  relative  proportion 
of  the  snow  to  water,  may  be  ascertained  by  meana^ 
of  a  long  cyiindcF  dosed  at  one  end,  and  immer- 
sed until  it  re^ch,  the  surface  of  the  ground.  It 
will  thus  cpntain  a  column  of  snow  equal  to  the. 
depth  that  has  fallen ;  find  on^  its  being  dissolved, 
will  shew  the  quantity  of  water  to  which  it  is  equal* 
The  mode  of  travelling  in  winter  is  no  less  ra. 
pid  than  convenient.  A  vehicle,  called  a  cariol^f^ 
is  drawn  by  one  or  tWQjhorscs,  which  are  harness* 
ed  m  the  same  manner  as  for  any  other  carriage. 
The  body  of  tlie  more  fashionable  kind  is  like  that 
of  a  curricle,  and  is  fixed  upon  a  sleigh  shod  with, 
iron.  It  has  an  apron  of  bear-skin  or  leather : 
and  within  it  is  placed  a  buifalo-skin,  caUed  a 
robe,  with  which  the  legs  and  feet  are  kept  warm. 
A  person  may  thu§  travel,  or  drive  about  for,  his 
pleasure,  without  much  inconvenience  from  cold, 
particularly  if  he  employ  a  servant  to  drive  the 
horses.  In  bad  weather,  sleighs  with  tops  or  co- 
vers made  of  leather,  are  in  use*  When  the  roads, 
are  level  and  good,  the  draft  of  one  of  tlips^  car* 
riages  is  very  little  fatiguing  for  a  horse ;  as  a 
small  degree  of  impulse  is  then  required  to  retain 
it  in  rapid  motion. 


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that  period, 
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nes  for  six 
c  proporlioix 
led  by  mean* 
and  immcj:- 
ground.     It 

equal  to  the. 
ng  dissolved, 
ch  it  is  equaU 
15  no  less  ra- 
iled a  cariohf^ 
1  are  harness* 
ther  carriage, 
ind  is  like  that 
igh  shod  with 
n  or  leather : 
kin,   caUed  a 
re  kept  wsirm. 

about  for;  his 
ice  fron\  cold, 
t  to  drive  the 
ith  tops  or  cp- 

/^hen  the  roads 

of  thps^car* 
horse ;  as  a 

uired  to  retain 


loaded 
the  towns 


281 

sleighs 


al. 


CANAOA*   - 

After  a  licavy  (all  of  snow,  the 
^hich  pass  along  in  the  vicinity  of 
ternately  take  up  in  their  front,  and  deposit  a 
quantity  of  snow,  and  thus  form  in  the  roads  fur- 
ro\ys  and  ridges  in  a  transverse  position,  which 
are  called  cahots.  Until  thes£  a^e  filled  up,,  tra- 
velling becomes  fotiguing  apd  unpleasant*   ''V     ' 

There  is  scarcely  a  habitattf  in  Lower  Canada 
who  possesses  not  one  or  two  sleighs :  and  much 
time  is  consumed  duriiD|g  the.  winter  season  in 
driving  from  one  place  tb^anojher.  The  horses 
are  of  the  Norman  breed,  and  are  rather  small, 
but  stout,  hardy,  fleet  and  well  calculated  for  draft. 
Notwithstanding  the  little  care  that  is  bestowed 
on  them,  and  the  ill  treatment  which  many  of 
them  experience,  they  in  general  possess  their 
strength  to  a  great  age. 

The  houses  are  kept  warm  in  winter  by  means 
of  cast  metol-stoves,  in  which  wood  is  burnt,  and 
which,  tlirough  pipes  formed  of  sheet-iron,  com- 
municate an  equable  portion  of  heat  to  every  part 
of  a  chamber.  By  this  mode,  and  by  the  precau- 
tions which  are  taken  on  the  part  of  the  inhabi- 
tants, in  wearing  suitable  clothing  when  they  ex- 
pose thembelves  to  the  air,  the  severity  of  the  cli- 
mate is  but  little  felt  or  regarded. 

The  dry  cold,  by  contracting  the  pores  of  the 
skin,  seems  in  some  degree  to  present  a  reme- 
dy for  its  own  iniensenesb,  and  to  counteract  those 


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Photographic 

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Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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282  CANADA* 

impressions,  of  which  the  human  frame  would 
otnerwise  become  more  busctptible,  and  be  per- 
haps unequal  to  sustain. 

The  French  language,  which  is  that  of  the  in- 
habitants of  Lower  Canada,  is  spoken  without 
any  provincial  accent.  The  proceedings  of  the 
legislature,  and  also  those  of  the  courts  of  law, 
aire  both  in  the  English  and  French  tongues. 


\  . 


^INIS* 


/»    J. 


^Ikxanderl^  Philliptt  PritUert,  CarUtU^ 


)'      I 


.  i..;.T>-    l»^ — c*  i-- 


"-^^T:.'- 


■  ^.'CIAJ 


JVSr  PUBLISHED, 


CPrice  1  Dollar,  in  boards  J 


HERIOT'S  TRAVELS  IN  CANADA. 


"  We  turned  to  the  volume  which  professes  to  give  very  ample 
information  concerning'  such  a  country  as  this,  with  no  ordinary 
degree  of  interest.  The  author  possessed  considerable  advanta- 
ges for  the  execution  of  his  task;  having  resided  in  the  country 
for  several  years  in  an  ofhcial  situation;  and,  being  endowed 
with  a  talent  for  drawing,  and  consequently  with  habits  of  obser- 
ving and  admiring  the  picturesque  scenery  of  nature.  This  vo- 
lume contains  much  less  than  we  desired,  or,  perhaps  expected, 
of  original  matter;  but,  it  presents  us  with  at  least,  a  tolerable 
summary  of  the  present  state  of  knowledge,  enriched  with  some 
additional  facts  respecting  the  British  possessions  in  Canada. 

His  apparent  respect  for  religious  truth,  deserves  honourable 
mention;  his  remarks  generally  indicate  a  sensible  and  benevo- 
lent mind.  His  descriptions,  and  delineations,  are  tolerably, 
though  not  always  minutely  accurate."         Eclectic  Review. 

"  Mr,  Ileriot  has  divided  his  work  into  two  parts.  The  first 
contains  the  result  of  his  personal  observations  on  tiie  picturesque 
scenery  of  the  St.  I^awrence;  to  this  he  has  added  some  account 
of  the  climate,  productions,  and  commerce  of  the  country:  the 
manners  and  characters  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  domiciliated  In- 
dians, and  of  thoce  tribes  which  occupy  or  frequent  situations  on 
the  bordei"s  of  the  great  lakes.  This  part  is  distinguished  by  a 
geogi  aphical  minuteness,  which  one  i*arely  finds  in  a  book  of  Tra- 
vels; no  mountain  raises  its  head  unnoticed,  every  bend  of  the 
river  is  marked,  every  enlargement  and  contraction  measured. 

On  the  whole,  we  certainly  think  respectably  of  Mr.  Heriot's 
Work:  a  considerable  portion  of  the  matter  it  contains  is  collect- 
ed from  exti-ancous  sources,  some  of  them  very  accessible  and 
well  known;  still,  however,  a  mass  of  information  is  presented  to 
the  readei',  which  will  hardly  fail  to  interest  and  amuse  him." 

Aikin's  Review. 

"  Another  work  of  merit  will  be  found  in  Mr.  Heriot's  *  Tra- 
vels through  the  Canadas;'  a  residence  in  which,  for  a  series  of 
years,  afforded  the  author  opportunities,  not  only  of  entering  mi- 
nutely into  the  civil  and  domestic  history  of  the  provinces,  but  of 
viewing  nature  in  her  wildest  forms,  and  of  witnessing  the  modes 
of  life  pursued  by  many  of  the  tribes  which  are  so  numerously 
scattered  through  the  extensive  regions  of  America. 

'•  Altogether  we  deem  it  one  of  the  most  curious  publications 
that  has  of  late  appeared."  Moktuly  Magaiine, 


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